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Monochrome
As we will see in a few days in an interview we have done with the recently appointed director of Schwarz Etienne, Florian Brossard, the independent watchmaker is about to open a new chapter in its history, with revamped collections and great ambitions to meet with the incredible capacities of this manufacturer, one of the […]
SJX Watches
The spring auction season is getting underway with the first sale being Phillips’ The Geneva Sessions Spring 2025 taking place online until March 12. The online auction is a warm-up for the Geneva live auction taking place in May, but the 70-lot sale nonetheless includes several interesting timepieces, including some unusual examples from the “neo vintage” era. Essentially watches made in the 1990s to the early 2000s, such watches tend to be good value today; 30 years on they still sell for a fraction of the original retail price. One of the best known watches from the era, perhaps even iconic, is the Vacheron Constantin Mercator. A double retrograde with hands taking the form of a compass, the Mercator was introduced in 1994 and produced for a decade. A little over 600 were made with most of them having etched brass dials; less common were the examples with cloisonné enamel dials. The sale includes a Mercator with a map of Portugal dating to 2004, making it one of the final pieces made. Part of a limited edition of just ten watches, this example includes an achieve extract. The Mercator Portugal is lot 19 with an estimate of CHF25,000-50,000. The enamel dial of the Mercator Portugal One of the quirkiest watches in the sale is the Alain Silberstein Kronomedio Saphir. The French designer was the first to employ sapphire crystal for the watch case way back in 1997. An exceptionally expensive watch at the time, the sapphire chronograph illustrated Mr Silberstein’s av...
SJX Watches
Launched a few months ago, the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion” 43 mm is Audemars Piguet’s first collaboration with Kaws, the contemporary artist best known for work inspired by Mickey Mouse and The Simpsons. While the Kaws edition is not the first AP pop culture collab, it is arguably the best. Initial thoughts I like the Royal Oak Concept Kaws, more than any of AP’s other pop culture collaborations. I like the aesthetic, feel, and execution (though not the oversized case), which put this amongst the best contemporary art crossovers in watchmaking. The Hublot-Murakami series is another outstanding artist-watchmaker collab, but the AP-Kaws watch is executed to a much higher level of quality (and price). Visually, the Kaws is big and bold, but rendered in muted, monochromatic grey – a paradoxical but complementary combination. At a distance the watch seems like yet another oversized Royal Oak, but up close it gets more interesting, starting with the fact that it has no hands in the traditional sense. The lack of hands (which are replaced with peripheral pointers) make this a little more interesting, since the cal. 2979 is a new movement that’s a variant of AP’s more conventional tourbillon calibre. I appreciate the fact that the movement was developed for this watch, both in order to accommodate the figure on the dial and to incorporate the “padded” Kaws aesthetic into the movement bridges on the back. Adding a mechanical complication to the Kaws s...
Monochrome
As we’ve seen recently, Orient, a Japanese watchmaker owned by the Seiko Epson Corporation, is celebrating its 75th anniversary this year. Created in 1950, it has since made a name for itself in the accessible segment with watches such as the Mako or the Bambino. There’s another important name that was created that same year; a […]
Monochrome
Round, or square… That’s basically the norm for case designs in the industry, but there was a time where brands would experiment with shapes and designs to such an extent that genuine icons were created! Fortunately, there’s been a rather strong revival of unconventionally shaped watches in recent times, which we can only applaud. Watches […]
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Monochrome
Today, there is only one Reverso, with Jaeger-LeCoultre printed on its dial, but this was not always the case. During the 1930s, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Cartier made watches that used the Reverso case for their timepieces. Moreover, the 1931 Reverso was not the first reversible case design. A few years earlier, Universal Geneve […]
Monochrome
A micro-brand that should sound familiar to you now, Kurono Tokyo is the brainchild of Japanese independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, known for his high-end tourbillons or chronographs. With this brand, Asaoka wanted to deliver his style and design ideas in far more accessible watches, without the highly complex movements, but with an equal taste for […]
Monochrome
Blancpain‘s long-standing ties to diving need little introduction. For over 20 years, the brand has been committed to raising awareness of the need to protect our oceans through the Blancpain Ocean Commitment (BOC) program. The latest BOC initiative is a limited series of 100 watches, the Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV, a more compact and […]
Monochrome
As you probably know by now, Audemars Piguet is celebrating its 150th anniversary this year. Last week, the Le Brassus-based brand released an array of new watches, predominantly focused on a new, clever and technically advanced perpetual calendar movement getting rid of recessed correctors (it is far more complex than you might imagine…) But that […]
Fratello
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we’re each choosing three non-Swiss watches with a budget of €20,000. The task is tricky, though, because €20,000 is enough to afford great pieces from the usual suspects, but it means being picky if choosing just one from a costly brand. Get ready for […] Visit Fratello On Air: Three Non-Swiss Watches For €20,000 to read the full article.
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Time+Tide
AnOrdain releases an actual porcelain dial - this is what sets it apart.The post AnOrdain takes fired dials to the next step with a jet black Model 2 Porcelain appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
One of the great pleasures of G-SHOCK is the sheer variety of watches in their catalog. It’s a bit of a canard, but there truly is something for every taste in G-SHOCK world. In terms of functionality, colors, and materials, there is a seemingly endless series of permutations. It’s something that works well for them on multiple fronts. First and foremost, it means that anyone in the market for a G-SHOCK has real options in front of them. Choice, in most situations, and certainly when it comes to function-first watches, is a good thing. The more opportunity to hone in a user’s specific needs, the better. Secondly, it helps foster the incredible collecting and enthusiast community that has been built around G-SHOCK over the years. The opportunity to discover new pieces, find connections between them, and share them with the community is part of what makes G-SHOCK special. Their latest collection, the G-STEEL Fine Metallic Series presents both an important and heretofore unavailable option for potential customers, as well as opening up a new segment for the collecting community. The watches that mark the beginning of this series are core to what we expect from the brand, but it’s easy to imagine limited editions and collaborations filling out this line in the not too distant future. The G-STEEL Fine Metallic Series branding is a bit of a misnomer as the big selling point of these watches is not the metallic piece at all, but the new strap that G-SHOCK is introducing...
Monochrome
Enameling is one of the oldest decorative techniques, invented over 4,000 years ago and used, for example, in Mesopotamia and then Egypt. Surprisingly enough, the earliest enamel all used the cloisonné technique, known to be one of the most complex techniques currently in use. Under the word enamel, at least in watchmaking and decorative techniques, […]
Fratello
Marginal gains - the world of Haute Horlogerie moves forward in little steps. That is already a miracle since mechanical watchmaking is in its private universe where functionality is not an essential survival tool. Still, the leading traditional watchmaking houses continue to push the technical boundaries. You don’t get a sense of evolution when you […] Visit Diving Into The New Audemars Piguet Caliber 7138 - A Complicated Way To Celebrate The Brand’s 150th Anniversary to read the full article.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we’ll take a look at five great vintage Zenith watches. As I explained in last week’s list, that one and today’s are a little homage to Zenith. The brand from Le Locle is one of my favorite watchmakers. By releasing a seemingly never-ending stream of exciting and often surprising […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage Zenith Models to read the full article.
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WatchAdvice
I go hands-on with the new Seiko x Kentaro Yoshida 5 Sports Limited Edition to see how its bold, monochromatic design comes to life. From intricate cloud motifs to playful skeletal artwork, this timepiece brings a unique blend of street art and watchmaking to the wrist! What We Love This black model appeals to those who love “blacked out” timepieces In sunlight, the artistic work of Kentaro Yoshida really comes to life on this timepiece Day-Date window is colour-matched to the dial, allowing the artwork to be the central highlight What We Don’t In low-light conditions, the black dial and its artwork blend in too much All black dials can also make the watch lose some of its functionality The case back tint could have been a little lighter to give more transparency for movement without losing Kentaro Yoshida’s logo. Overall Score: 8.4 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Late last month, Seiko unveiled its latest 5 Sports collection, one created in conjunction with the famed street artist Kentaro Yoshida. Watch Advice had the chance to attend the unveiling of this latest collection, where Yoshida himself was present to introduce not only the different timepieces but also the artworks behind each watch. Related Reading: A Wonderful Night Celebrating Seiko Watches and Kentaro Yoshida Seiko has been doing exceptionally well with some of its latest releases. I know I keep raving about it, but their Alpinist Australasian ...
SJX Watches
The centrepiece of Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary is the ingenious perpetual calendar cal. 7138 (at least for now), but the most complicated of the commemorative editions is the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie Carillon Supersonnerie. The anniversary line-up of striking watches is comprised of five unique grande sonnerie wristwatches: three have sapphire dials that reveal the intricate strikework, while the remaining pair are fitted with iridescent opal dials. The harlequin opal dial Initial thoughts Though criticised at launch, the Code 11.59 has evolved into a varied range of watches, some of which are notably appealing (some are still pretty boring unfortunately). The grande sonnerie falls into the appealing category. The mechanics of the grande sonnerie are exceptionally complicated, and because it is a Supersonnerie equipped with AP’s patented amplification construction, the grande sonnerie is incredibly loud. The volume of the chimes are loud, but not so much that they are harsh. In short, the acoustics are impressive. The sapphire dial in sand gold case The anniversary edition grande sonnerie are individually appealing, though the opal dials are more interesting due to the novelty of the material. That said, the grande sonnerie can be customised, so a buyer is not necessarily limited to the options available for the anniversary. If I wanted to spend this much on a grande sonnerie, I’d work on my own. The pinnacle of striking watches AP is one...
Deployant
We take a close look at the just released Leica ZM 12, and examine why it is a legitimate product from this famous camera maker.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary debuts are centred on perpetual calendars (at least for now), marking the closing of one chapter and the opening of another. The ingenious new calibre 7138 perpetual calendar marks a definitive new chapter in the brand’s history, while the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked is the swan song for a storied cal. 2120 movement that Audemars Piguet (AP) has relied on for decades. Presented in titanium with a polished BMG bezel, the final edition perpetual calendar is inspired by the Royal Oak pocket watch ref. 25729. This pocket watch lends its sapphire-and-blue aesthetic to the anniversary perpetual calendar, although the pocket watch was ironically powered by a manual wind calibre (as pocket watches tend to be). The ref. 25729PT was a 20-piece limited edition with a matching platinum chain, made in 1992 for the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak Initial thoughts The anniversary edition marks the end of the cal. 5134/5135 (and the preceding cal. 2120/2800), the long-lived perpetual calendar movement that AP launched in 1978. While great in its time, the movement was dated and somewhat low-tech by modern standards. The retirement of the movement is well deserved, and it is certainly going out in style. At a distance the anniversary perpetual calendar is familiar, but up close it reveals details that make it a little bit more interesting than its peers. These include the blue ringed-sapphire dial, retro signatu...
Monochrome
Inspired by the very first mechanical tower and table clocks that had not yet discovered the minutes hand, MeisterSinger’s disarmingly simple premise is to deliver the time with a single hand. However, a single hand is not necessarily equated with simple watches, and the brand’s repertoire includes complications like its chiming Bel Hora and moon phase […]
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Monochrome
Last year, Audemars Piguet announced the end of the calibre 5134, the automatic movement that has powered most of its modern perpetual calendar watches for the past 10 years – mostly, the classic RO Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar, which performed its swan song with a limited edition made with John Mayer. But the 5134 was not […]
SJX Watches
Nomos has just introduced four new references to its line of entry-level watches conceived for fresh graduates, the Club Campus Starlight and Night Sky. The new releases are set apart by the bold colours - blue or yellow - for the “California” dial combines Arabic and Roman numerals. Each is offered in the customary sizes for the line, 36 mm and 38.5 mm, and retain the no-frills closed case back with 100 m water resistance. Initial thoughts Appreciated for its value proposition watches with solid in-house movements, Nomos has recently suffered from a lack of novelty. Indeed, the new Club Campus models differ only in dial colours from their predecessors. But the watches are still have appeal, particularly the entry-level models like the Club Campus; some of the high-end models are arguably too pricey for a competitive segment. In short, the Club Campus is compelling value proposition, thanks to its accessible price and the basic but appealing Alpha calibre. Vibrant colours Sharing the same dimensions and overall design as its predecessors, the new pair is set apart by its vivid dial colours. Available in Starlight and Nightsky configurations, this model prominently features a small seconds display with a bold orange second hand that contrasts against the dial. Driving the watch is the Alpha movement, a manual-winding calibre based on the Peseux 7001 architecture but heavily reworked, dressed up, and now made in-house by Nomos. It delivers a 43-hour power reserve an...
Monochrome
With a partnership that goes back to 2001, when Tissot became the official timekeeper of MotoGP – the 2-wheel equivalent of Formula 1 – you can imagine that the T-Race collection is vast. Over the years, it has given birth to some of the most daring watches of the brand, all deeply inspired by the […]
Monochrome
Hanhart, the German brand with Swiss roots, produced stopwatches in the early 1920s, followed by Flieger chronographs for pilots in the late 1930s. Today, it is one of the go-to brands for retro pilot watches updated with contemporary materials and movements. At the end of last year, Hanhart released the 415 ES, a faithful recreation […]
Deployant
We update to the best watches for jet setters with dual timezone. Personal favourites of the Chief Editor. This is a personal curated list.
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