Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked In Ceramic
A cross-section of old-school watch design and modern-day watchmaking ability.
Results for DLC and PVD Coating
29,485 articles · 1,849 videos found · page 904 of 1045
Hodinkee
SJX Watches
IWC Introduces the “Lewis Hamilton” Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar
To mark British racing driver Lewis Hamilton’s sixth Formula 1 World Championship, IWC has unveiled the “Lewis Hamilton” Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition. One of the most striking executions of the Big Pilot to date, the watch departs from the subdued, technical colours that characterise the line – which was inspired by German airforce navigators’ watches of the Second World War – and instead opts for a Bordeaux dial and pink gold accents. Measuring 46.5mm wide and 15.9mm high, the case is made of matte black ceramic, which accentuates its burgundy dial while downplaying its massive dimensions – though the watch is hard to miss on the wrist. The richly coloured dial is combined with a pink-gold crown and case back, while the hands are gold-plated and filled with cream-coloured Super-Luminova. All the indications are also printed in a golden hue, along with a black four-digit year disc and moons, matching the case. Visible through the case back is the in-house, automatic cal. 52615, which sports a solid pink-gold rotor. It features the brand’s trademark Pellaton winding system, a 7-day power reserve courtesy of twin barrels and most crucially, the landmark perpetual calendar module invented by IWC’s longtime technical guru Kurt Klaus. The perpetual calendar tracks the day, day of the week, date, month, four-digit year, with both northern and southern hemispheres moon phases displayed concurrently. All indications advance in a coordinated sequ...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10436 White Dial
2019 is the year of the blue dial. Doesn’t matter if it’s a steel sports watch, solid gold dress watch or a one-off pièce unique – if you want your wrist flex to be as en vogue as a pair of R.M. Williams and beige chinos, a timepiece with a blue dial is the only … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10436 White Dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Happenings: The Hour Glass Presents 'Then Now Beyond'
The Singapore-based retailer celebrates 40 years with an exhibition of rare commissioned objects from famous artists and designers.
Quill & Pad
Delamain Cognac: Compelling Evidence For The Benefits Of Time
Delamain cognac concentrates, first and foremost, on quality. Ken Gargett finds it hard not to love that. This ancient cognac house might not get the fanfare of some, but its cognacs are very special and a must for anyone who enjoys quality spirits. Find out why here.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: 5 reasons Chopard are horological heavy hitters
It’s been a big year for Chopard, thanks in part to the release of the Alpine Eagle, the first ever steel watch from the brand, and one of the most discussed watches of the year. As this new sports watch got the world talking about Chopard, we thought it was the perfect time to take … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: 5 reasons Chopard are horological heavy hitters appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395
In terms of press, Breguet’s most significant watch of the year is a relatively simple one, the Type 20 for Only Watch, which sold for 210,000 Swiss francs at the charity auction, or just over four times the high estimate. But the most significant watch in terms of haute horlogerie is the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395. The ref. 5395 a large, thin, and ornate watch that’s actually a variant of the large, thin, and simple ref. 5367 introduced two years ago. More elaborate than the typical Breguet, the ref. 5395 is beautifully executed, down to the smallest elements, like the blued-gold hobnail hour markers or mirror-polished countersinks. But most importantly, the movement within is finished exceedingly well – by hand – to a level that’s a cut above the average Breguet complication. Most of that is obvious in the photos below. Graceful proportions At 41mm and just 7.7mm high – thinner than the 8.1mm Royal Oak “Jumbo” – the ref. 5395 sits elegant and flat on the wrist. Compared to larger, and usually more complicated, Breguet watches, this feels like what a classical Breguet should be. Because of its diameter, however, it can look like a dinner plate on smaller wrists. And the ref. 5395 doesn’t work on hairy wrists either, because the skeletonisation leaves a wide gap in between the bridges. That’s because the skeletonisation of the cal. 581SQ inside is extreme; according to Breguet some 50% of the movement’s mass was removed. And th...
Revolution
Revolution Watch Podcast Ep. 16: Karl-Friedrich Scheufele
In this episode of the Revolution Watch Podcast, the ever-humble Karl-Friedrich Scheufele talks about Chopard’s beginnings and his various passion projects.
Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers La Musique Du Temps Minute Repeater Tourbillon Four Seasons: Chime, Chime, Chime For Every Season
The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Four Seasons is an ode to the journey we all must take, the journey that even our great big planet takes every year as it grows, dies, and is reborn. We can celebrate the mechanics and ingenuity behind the watches, but this limited edition celebrates the fleeting nature of life itself.
Deployant
Throwback Sunday: Six luxury steel sports watches with bracelets
6 iconic stainless steel luxury sports watches: from Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Girard-Perreguax, Chopard and A. Lange & Sohne.
Time+Tide
What Sealed The Deal – Joseph’s Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36
Everyone’s first Rolex purchase is important - it’s a milestone that, for most, carries with it a great amount of pride and sense of accomplishment. And for almost all of us out there lucky enough to have bought their inaugural timepiece from the legacy watchmaker, it isn’t something that was entered into lightly; we have known … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – Joseph’s Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Enticing Qualities Of “Entry-Level” Tourbillons – Reprise
If there is one complicated element that has been in a whirlwind (pun intended) of developments, it has been the tourbillon. And while tourbillons are still fairly expensive, you don't have to spend $100,000 anymore, as many brands now have great offerings for even a third of that amount.
Time+Tide
Frosted gold is very, very underrated
Editor’s note: There are lots of ways that watchmakers like to decorate their micromechanical marvels, such as engraving, polishing, brushing or even Côtes de Genève inside the case. While all of these techniques are wonderfully effective when done well, one of the most visually impressive (and generally underrated) techniques to finish a watch is hammering … ContinuedThe post Frosted gold is very, very underrated appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
What’s So Special About Independent Watchmakers? – Reprise
Whenever Łukasz Doskocz thinks about a watch made by an independent watchmaker, a certain recollection comes to mind – one that could explain his passion for timepieces created by masters combining diminutive production with gargantuan horological expertise. This particular story involves a watch brand, a trip to Switzerland, and what is normally a very casual thing: lunch.
SJX Watches
Business News: Stefanie Ng Appointed CEO of Audemars Piguet SE Asia
Audemars Piguet (AP) recently named Stefanie Ng to lead its operations in Southeast Asia, India and Australia. She succeeds Jonathan King, who departed the brand in April 2019. Having started her career at Swatch Group, Ms Ng joined AP in 2012 as marketing manager for the region, where she helped execute projects like the Royal Oak 40th anniversary exhibition and a giant floral clock at Gardens by the Bay. The past two years have been formative for the brand, both in Asia and the wider world, as it has steadily trimmed its third-party distribution while growing sales within its own stores, making the marketing efforts of Ms Ng and her team vital, particularly with the launch of the all-new Code 11.59 collection earlier this year. As chief executive, Ms Ng will work alongside two board members of AP, which is unusual amongst Swiss watchmakers in having shareholders resident in Singapore: Oliviero Bottinelli, whose family inherited its stake from former AP chief executive Georges Golay (1921-1987), and Sunil Amarasuriya, who was once the distributor for AP in the region and acquired a minority stake in 1990. The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 tourbillon made for Only Watch, which sold for a record 1m Swiss francs at the charity auction in November Though the watch industry in the region, like that back home in Switzerland, is dominated by men, it’s noteworthy that two of the most important brands – coincidentally both family owned – are now run by women. The Patek Philipp...
Quill & Pad
Van Cleef & Arpels’ Iconic Pont Des Amoureux Timepiece Makes A Comeback Paying Tribute To Tales Of Love
It was a cold, wet, and windy autumn day when Van Cleef & Arpels invited Y-Jean Mun-Delsalle and a few colleagues on a boat ride along the Seine river through central Paris. The occasion (and the boat ride) was just the start as the launch of the new and improved Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux, which has now been expanded into an entire collection gathered under the umbrella of "Love Stories," was the main attraction.
Hodinkee
My Leica: James Stacey
Meet HODINKEE Senior Writer James Stacey and his Leica Q2.
SJX Watches
Highlights: A Patek Philippe Trio at Phillips’ New York Auction
The final watch auctions of the year take place in New York, and as usual Phillips is staging a thematic sale. Titled Game Changers, the auction is made up of watches owned by game-changing celebrities like Marlon Brando and Jack Nicklaus, or timepieces that were game changers in the horological landscape, like the F.P. Journe Octa Reserve de Marche prototype. Also in the sale is a would-be game changer: the Vacheron Constantin Overseas prototype in titanium, not yet a game changer since it has not been put into production, but being the coolest Overseas to date, it probably will. And also worth a look is the vintage Heuer Monaco with a hand-finished movement that’s being sold for charity. But this article is about a handful of Patek Philippe watches, including the sale’s top lot, a ref. 1518 “pink on pink”, as well as a less expensive but more intriguing skeleton pocket watch with paillonnee enamel decoration. The ref. 899 pocket watch decorated with blue enamel and paillons Lot 38 – Patek Philippe ref. 530 chronograph The ref. 530 is a desirable model because it’s oversized for a vintage watch – the case is 36.5mm in diameter – giving it proportions that are quite modern. And the ref. 530 is rare, although a several examples have come up at recent auctions. They sold for moderate prices, for varying reasons and perhaps a general market softness, so this one might be a chance to land a ref. 530 for a reasonable price. This example is attractive. The dial ...
Revolution
Jaeger-LeCoultre Opens First Flagship Store Down Under
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s first boutique in Australia is located on King Street, Sydney and set to open in a week’s time.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ollech & Wajs OW C-1000
After introducing their new OW P-101 and OW P-104 models, Ollech & Wajs is now announcing the availability of the OW C-1000-a reissue of the Ollech & Wajs Caribbean 1000 from the 1960s.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: My Hunt For John Glenn's Watches
What happened when eight watches worn by the American astronaut and senator suddenly turned up at a little-noticed estate sale in a suburban home.
Revolution
Rolex USA Takes Monumental Legal Step Against California Based Watch Customizer
Rolex USA takes monumental legal action against California based Watch customizer, stating confusion, deception and injury to Rolex’s business reputation
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Greubel Forsey GMT Sport
Even within the rarefied realm of haute horlogerie, Greubel Forsey has taken watchmaking to a level of craft few others can match – not just in terms of finishing, but innovation in chronometry while also establishing its own inimitable, three-dimensional aesthetic. And now, the brand has combined all of that onto its first sports watch – the GMT Sport. While nearly identical to the existing GMT in terms of function, combining a world time with an inclined tourbillon, the GMT Sport looks nothing like any other Greubel Forsey. And its movement is mostly made of titanium, having been reconstructed to fit into the new ovoid case. Despite being strikingly different, the watch is tremendously impressive on many fronts, especially in its finishing and construction. The new look Depth rated to 100m, the GMT Sport is a large watch that is organic in shape, with no right angles, a handful of edges, and only few flat surfaces. But it has a mechanical-looking style, with lugs secured to the case by visible screws and prominent pushers. The construction is complex and masterful, with the most unusual feature being the crystal and bezel, which are curved on multiple planes. When viewed from the top, the case appears circular, but it is in fact, tonneau-shaped with an oval bezel that is curved vertically from 12 to six o’clock. To fit the curvature of the case, the crystal is also oval-shaped and curved, which further highlights the architectural depth of the movement. The circ...
Revolution
REVOLUTION EXCLUSIVE: Discovered - New Khanjar Dial Rolex Daytonas
Ross Povey goes on the hunt and discovers two instances of previously unknown Khanjar Dial Rolex Daytonas.
SJX Watches
Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition
Omega has just revealed the watch that will be strapped to the wrist of 007 in No Time To Die, Daniel Craig’s fifth movie playing James Bond that will open in April 2020. Developed with the actor’s input – he apparently likes vintage watches – the Seamaster Diver 300M 007 draws inspiration from vintage British military-issue watches, while offering modern functionality with a lightweight titanium case and high-spec movement. And unlike the James Bond editions to date – of which there are many – this is part of the regular collection. “When working with Omega, we decided that a lightweight watch would be key for a military man like 007,” says Mr Craig, quoted in the announcement for the watch, “I also suggested some vintage touches and colour to give the watch a unique edge.” Very vintage Worn on a mesh bracelet in the film but also available on a NATO strap, the watch is a 42mm Seamaster Diver 300M that’s entirely in titanium, bracelet included. But the styling goes all out – to the extreme – in being faux vintage. The dial and bezel insert are made of anodised aluminium in a dark brown to replicate the “tropical” look of vintage watches. According to Omega, the aluminium parts will fade over time – albeit over decades rather than years – for a bona fide tropical look. And the hands, numerals and indices are filled with eggshell-coloured Super-Luminova to mimic the appearance of radium “lume” on vintage watches. Military issue and prou...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Longines Heritage Classic “Sector” Dial
Longines ended the year with two spot-on vintage remakes, the just-launched Heritage Military 1938 and the earlier Heritage Classic “sector” dial that’s just arrived in stores. The Heritage Classic is based on a 1934 Longines wristwatch with dial style known as “sector” or “scientific”. Fashionable today because of its distinctive yet retro look, the sector dial was fairly common in the early 20th century, being found on both pocket- and wristwatches made by a variety of brands, ranging from Patek Philippe to Zenith. So Longines doesn’t have any special claim to the design, but with a retail of just over US$2000, its sector-dial remake is arguably the bang for the buck. At 38.5mm in diameter the Heritage Classic is compact and wears well. It’s slightly larger than the vintage originals – typically 35mm or so, while rarely and expensively 37mm or larger – but not by much. Because the case diameter has been kept smallish by modern standards, the sub-seconds at six is correctly positioned, unlike on most remakes that match large cases with small movements. While the seconds sits closer to the centre of the dial than on the vintage original, the dial still looks correctly laid out with good balance. The remake (left), and the original from 1934 that’s in the Longines museum. Image – Longines Besides the diameter, the case profile is also well done. At 10mm, the height is proportional to the diameter, with a fairly high, single-step bezel and a slim c...
Time+Tide
3 Longines for under $5K on their online store that represent value propositions
One of the greatest things about Longines is their history - the Swiss marque was established almost two centuries ago, way back in 1832. This heritage gives the brand an advantage, and it gives the Longines wearer an edge, too. The depth and versatility of Longines timepieces is utterly expansive – and the back catalogue is a … ContinuedThe post 3 Longines for under $5K on their online store that represent value propositions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Jaquet Droz’s Charming Bird Deconstruction By The Naked Watchmaker (Plus Video)
Ian Skellern still remembers the sense of awe he felt when he had the opportunity to watch and listen to a recently restored centuries-old Jaquet Droz singing bird. The animation was compelling, and the quality of the birdsong sound was incredible. But as impressive a feat he thought that full-sized eighteenth-century Jaquet Droz singing bird clock was, shrinking that mechanical technology to wristwatch size is just mind-blowing. As The Naked Watchmaker, Peter Speake-Marin, highlights here.
Revolution
Omega Reveals James Bond’s Next Seamaster Diver 300M
The partnership with Omega and the Bond franchise turns 25 next year, and the brand is ready to up the game with a new watch that’s licensed to stun.
SJX Watches
Interview: Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie.
Since Edouard Meylan took the top job at H Moser & Cie. in 2013, after his family acquired the struggling brand a year earlier, he righted the ship and the brand is now forging ahead with technical ambition and a surprising degree of commercial nous. Wielding a Wharton MBA, Mr Meylan devised creative, and at times, controversial marketing campaigns – from the “Frankenstein” watch to one covered in grass – that have allowed Moser to punch above its weight as a maker of just 1,500 watches a year. Yet Moser has retained its technical know-how that has allowed it to refine its signature perpetual calendar, amongst other things. That’s aided by the fact that besides Moser, the Meylan family interests also control its sister company Precision Engineering, via a 90% ownership of the holding company Moser Watch Holding. The component specialist produces hairsprings, as well as other key movement components like escape wheels, pallet forks, and balance wheels, supplying Moser as well as a host of the independent brands. The ingenious Moser perpetual calendar movement During his recent visit to Singapore to inaugurate the newly inked partnership with retailer Cortina Watch, we sat down with Mr Meylan to discuss a spectrum of topics, from his mischief-making promotional activities to the firm’s manufacturing, as well as the soon-to-be-launched chronograph. The interview was edited for clarity and length. When you took over the company seven years ago, it was struggling ...