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Why the Breguet Classique 5177 deserves a much closer look Time+Tide
Breguet Classique 5177 deserves Feb 5, 2020

Why the Breguet Classique 5177 deserves a much closer look

Editor’s note: At a quick glance, the world of high-end dress watches appears relatively same-same, with the important qualities of each piece only coming to light under much closer inspection. Most dress watches will be time-only, offer a simple dial, and arrive on a leather strap, but as you look closer, you will notice the … ContinuedThe post Why the Breguet Classique 5177 deserves a much closer look appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel Feb 4, 2020

Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel

With the Freak being the undisputed flagship complication of Ulysse Nardin – as well as a historically important watch – many of the brand’s other technical accomplishments often go under the radar. One intriguing offering that hasn’t gotten much attention: the Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel. Despite the somewhat dull name, the Tourbillon Free Wheel is a compelling reinterpretation of a mystery clock – where the mechanics are artfully hidden and exposed for visual effect – that is both fascinating and exotic. The Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel with an aventurine dial While the base model of the Executive collection features a largely conventional, open-worked movement, the Tourbillon Free Wheel takes things a step further by elevating the crucial parts of the movement like the barrel, tourbillon regulator, and gear train for the power reserve. In fact, most of the components are “floating” – the movement boasts a flying tourbillon, a “flying” gear train and power reserve indicator, as well as a “floating” barrel. At the same time, the construction is inverted, with parts that are usually hidden sitting exposed, and vice versa. As a result, the tourbillon and power reserve display appear to operate in isolation, with no obvious connection to the rest of the movement. Floating and flying minimalism While much of the gearing is hidden underneath the dial – which doubles up as the base plate – most of the moving parts are “floating” –...

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Rolex Yacht-Master Vs. Omega Seamaster Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Rolex vs Omega Feb 4, 2020

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Rolex Yacht-Master Vs. Omega Seamaster

Rolex vs. Omega is an age-old debate that has seemingly raged since time immemorial in the horological community. However, the watches in question have always been the Rolex Submariner vying against the Omega Seamaster, or the Rolex Daytona vs. the Omega Speedmaster. And while the arguments for and against these aforementioned watches could go on … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Rolex Yacht-Master Vs. Omega Seamaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Marina Carbotech PAM 1661 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Feb 3, 2020

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Marina Carbotech PAM 1661

Three years ago, Panerai introduced the LAB-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Days PAM 700, an experimental watch boasting carbon-based innovations inside and out, including ceramic bridges and plates that do away with jewelled bearings as well as a dial coated in carbon nanotubes giving it an absolute black finish. But the LAB-ID was truly experimental, and word has it that only a handful were sold and the planned 50-piece run was never completed. But no doubt due to the popularity of the LAB-ID’s design – and unpopularity of the €50,000 price tag – Panerai has just announced the Luminor Marina Carbotech 44 mm (PAM01661). It’s essentially a smaller, simpler LAB-ID, featuring a case in the same material, as well as blue lume on the dial and hands, but with a straightforward automatic movement without any of the bells and whistles found in the LAB-ID. The Luminor Marina Carbotech 44 mm Depth rated to 300 m, the case is made of Carbotech, a carbon fibre-reinforced polymer produced by compressing thin sheets of carbon fibres at high pressure with a high-end polymer (PEEK), explaining the wave-like appearance of the material. The result is a material that is light and strong, explaining why the large, 44 mm case weighs just 96 grammes, less than half the same case in steel. The LAB-ID of 2017 The watch has a standard Panerai dial, but in the colours of the LAB-ID. Like most Panerai dials, it has a “sandwich” construction, where the hour markers are cut-outs that r...

3 brilliant Breguet watches that would have made Abraham proud Time+Tide
Breguet watches Feb 3, 2020

3 brilliant Breguet watches that would have made Abraham proud

Breguet had a stellar year in 2019 as they offered a host of new watches, some of which delivered sportiness, and others that brought a sense of refined classicism. While Abraham-Louis Breguet, the Neuchâtel-born founder of the maison, might have been more comfortable with some of the more traditional pieces in the collection, here are … ContinuedThe post 3 brilliant Breguet watches that would have made Abraham proud appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What we know so far about the alleged fake Rolex scandal engulfing popular YouTuber @horologyhouse Time+Tide
Rolex scandal engulfing popular YouTuber Feb 3, 2020

What we know so far about the alleged fake Rolex scandal engulfing popular YouTuber @horologyhouse

It’s Australia’s biggest watch scandal in living memory. Hell, if anything is going to end up with a ‘-gate’ suffix in our world, it’s this. Last weekend, Rolexforums.com broke the news that Christopher Essery - the man behind @horologyhouse, a popular YouTube Channel, website and Instagram account renowned for its macro photography - is alleged to … ContinuedThe post What we know so far about the alleged fake Rolex scandal engulfing popular YouTuber @horologyhouse appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot highlights from LVMH’s Dubai Watch Week Time+Tide
Hublot highlights from LVMH’s Dubai Feb 3, 2020

Hublot highlights from LVMH’s Dubai Watch Week

Though it may have been a few weeks ago, such was the extent of Hublot’s 2020 novelties unveiled at LVMH’s Dubai Watch Week that it’s still got the horological hemisphere talking. For a start, the big talking point was that the Swiss watchmaker’s iconic Big Bang was unveiled on an all-new integrated bracelet, and thus, … ContinuedThe post Hublot highlights from LVMH’s Dubai Watch Week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Chronograph 3716 with “In-House” Movement SJX Watches
IWC Introduces Feb 3, 2020

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Chronograph 3716 with “In-House” Movement

Unveiled in 1998, the original IWC Portugieser Chronograph ref. 3714 had a surprisingly long life, managing to be a bestseller for 22 years – and a lucrative franchise for IWC – thanks to its distinctive yet classical styling and relatively affordable price. Now it has finally been replaced by the new Portugieser Chronograph ref. 3716 that looks almost identical, but is powered by a proprietary movement – and only a little bit more expensive. The ref. 3716 actually made its debut two years ago as a 150th anniversary limited edition, available only with a glossy, lacquered dial in white or blue. Now the ref. 3716 joins the regular collection, with a steel or 18k rose gold case, as well as all of the dial variants that were offered for the outgoing ref. 3714. That means the quintessential Portugieser Chronograph in steel matched a silver dial, gold numerals and gold hands is still available. The new Portugieser Chronograph is slightly larger than the original, but the differences are so slight that they are not apparent at all. The new model is 41 mm in diameter and 13.1 mm high, compared to 40.9 mm by 12.6 mm for the original. The new movement, and new price The increase in size is due to the cal. 69355, which replaces the cal. 79350 (derived from the Valjoux 7750) inside the original Portugieser Chronograph. The cal. 69355 is an in-house movement that’s part of the 69000 family. Amongst the upgrades are the column wheel, as well as the escape wheel and pallet for...

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR V2-94 Aéronavale Bronze SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Feb 3, 2020

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR V2-94 Aéronavale Bronze

Slightly retro and conventionally shaped, the Bell & Ross Vintage line is a popular counterpart to the brand’s better-known, all-square BR 01 and 03. The Vintage collection gets three new models at Baselworld 2020 – namely a time-only, GMT, and chronograph – including the BR V2-94 Aéronavale Bronze limited edition. Notably, the new BR V2 watches are offered with a type of elastic fabric strap secured by a small hook, often known as an “MN” strap. That’s short for Marine Nationale – the French navy – and reputedly comes from the fact that such straps were originally fabricated by from parachute webbing by French navy personnel, who were said to have been issued watches without straps. Named after l’Aéronavale, the air arm of the French navy, the BR V2-94 limited edition is inspired by the colours of the French navy’s dress uniform. So the dial is a dark, metallic blue, matched with gold-plated hands and hour markers, and a bronze case. And bezel is fixed and features a blue, anodised aluminium insert that allows for measurement of elapsed time. The 41 mm case is made of CuAl7Si2 bronze, an alloy that’s almost all copper, save for 7% aluminium and 2% silicon. Over time, the alloy acquires a brownish surface oxidisation, in contrast to the green verdigris of more common bronze alloys. And like the other BR V2 chronographs, this is powered by an ETA 2894-2, which is an ETA 2892 base with a chronograph module on top. The other additions to the line wi...

‘Watch & Act!’ World Watch Auction results: Over $200K raised! Time+Tide
Feb 3, 2020

‘Watch & Act!’ World Watch Auction results: Over $200K raised!

We’re very proud to announce that the ‘Watch & Act!’ World Watch Auction in aid of the Australian bushfire crisis has raised more than $200,000 Australian dollars, with 100 per cent of the funds going directly to the charities that need it most. This has been a monumental effort from everyone involved and we’re incredibly … ContinuedThe post ‘Watch & Act!’ World Watch Auction results: Over $200K raised! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Why the Position of a Watch Influences Accuracy SJX Watches
Zenith El Primero Feb 2, 2020

In-Depth: Why the Position of a Watch Influences Accuracy

A mechanical watch movement is a tiny-but-complex system made up of components in equilibrium, operating flawlessly. But because the those components are delicate – especially the parts that make up the escapement – its operation can be influenced by external factors,  including shock, moisture, and more commonly, the position of the watch, whether on the wrist or off. The position of a watch determines how gravity affects the moving parts of the movement. In other words, the timekeeping of a watch can vary according to whether it is laid on its back or on its side. That resulting variation is known as positional error, and it is largely because of gravity’s effect on the balance wheel – the oscillator in the regulating organ of the movement. Beyond the position of a watch, positional error is also shaped by factors like the amplitude of the balance wheel, the type of hairspring, and the poise of the balance. All are inextricably linked and must be adjusted just right – properly regulated in watchmaking parlance – in order for a watch to have minimal positional error and thus keep good time. [Editor’s note: In this article we’ll just deal with movements constructed traditionally with conventional materials, leaving out silicon-equipped movements, which are still relatively niche.] The Microstella adjustable-mass balance of the Rolex cal. 4030, which is based on the Zenith El Primero A matter of position The position of a watch significantly affects its ac...

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Astron Novak Djokovic 2020 Limited Edition Time+Tide
Seiko Astron Novak Djokovic 2020 Feb 1, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Astron Novak Djokovic 2020 Limited Edition

Seventeen-time Grand Slam Champion Novak Djokovic has once again teamed up with long-term sponsor Seiko to create this - the Seiko Astron Novak Djokovic 2020 Limited Edition. Based on the standard Astron SSH019J1, the limited-run watch has been designed to celebrate both the Serbian and Japanese flags. The new Djokovic Astron is a handsome-looking timepiece, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Astron Novak Djokovic 2020 Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why it’s difficult to buy an Omega Speedmaster Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster I have been Feb 1, 2020

Why it’s difficult to buy an Omega Speedmaster

I have been trying to buy an Omega Speedmaster for a couple of years now. I have to admit I’m finding it nearly impossible to purchase one. Yes, I know they are readily available. That isn’t the problem. In fact, one of the problems is that the Speedmaster universe is infinite and daunting. First, let’s … ContinuedThe post Why it’s difficult to buy an Omega Speedmaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Romeo Y Julieta Maravillas 8 Cuban Cigars: Large Size, Medium Flavor, Small Value Quill & Pad
Jan 31, 2020

Romeo Y Julieta Maravillas 8 Cuban Cigars: Large Size, Medium Flavor, Small Value

If a friend dropped by for a chat and a drink and pulled out a couple of these whopper Romeo & Julieta Maravillas 8 Cuban cigars, Ken Gargett thinks you would have an enjoyable afternoon, but probably not think a lot about the cigars. He thought the one he smoked was fine, pleasant and consistent, but no fireworks. And then there's the elephant in the room: the price.

RECOMMENDED READING: The remarkable innovation of the Patek Philippe Solar Clock Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Solar Clock While Patek Jan 31, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: The remarkable innovation of the Patek Philippe Solar Clock

While Patek Philippe are kept most popularly in the mind today through a handful of steel sports watches and the lyrics of chart-topping songs, the company has a history of remarkable innovation that is sometimes overlooked. In the middle of last century - 1950 to be precise - the Genevan firm released a solar-powered table clock, an … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The remarkable innovation of the Patek Philippe Solar Clock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

4 of the most surprising Rado watches of 2019 Time+Tide
Rado watches Jan 31, 2020

4 of the most surprising Rado watches of 2019

2019 was the year that Rado solidified their intent to deliver watches that not only pleased a loyal fanbase but surprised and captured the imagination of watch enthusiasts new to the brand. Everything from classically proportioned dress watches, to handsome and rugged tool watches and even bold reissues were released by the Swiss marque, to … ContinuedThe post 4 of the most surprising Rado watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Céleste SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Jan 31, 2020

Hands-On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Céleste

Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled a trio of grand complications last year, a substantial number given how complex each watch is, although two of the three are powered by existing movements. The Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle (the only one equipped with a new calibre) and the Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite were launched first, and late in the year came the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Céleste to mark 15 years of partnership with the Venice International Film Festival. Among the brand’s grand complications, the Tourbillon Celeste is one of the most interesting, boasting a quirky combinations of functions – an orbital, flying tourbillon calibrated for sidereal time as well as a star chart, and sidereal annual calendar. And it is also unusually high tech for a Jaeger-LeCoultre, with the movement being equipped with a silicon escape wheel and pallet fork. A simpler complication As with most of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s recent grand complications, the movement in the Tourbillon Céleste is an iteration of an earlier calibre – something the brand has made a habit of in recent years, which is a bit of a shame given its rich history in movement development. Specifically, the movement inside is a streamlined and simplified version of the more complicated Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication, which was launched in 2010 and also included a minute repeater. Being a separate module mounted on the case-back side of the movement, the repeater was s...