Hodinkee
In-Depth: Consider The Mainspring
One of the most essential, and most underappreciated, components in watchmaking.
Results for Twin and Triple Barrel
29,603 articles · 2,003 videos found · page 909 of 1054
Hodinkee
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #157: Celebrity Watches: Cash or Passion?
Happy New Year! Mike and Kaz are opening things up this time with a fun topic that emerged back on episode 156. We all know there are a ton of celebrities out there sporting some serious timepieces. But what came first? Cash or passion?
Time+Tide
James’ 5 favourite stories of 2019
2019 was a full-on year here at Time+Tide - we launched Australia’s premier watch club, the second edition of our magazine, NOW Issue 2, became the official distributor for DOXA watches in Australia and New Zealand and launched our very own online store, the Time+Tide marketplace. We also, rather obviously, wrote a shedload of stories for … ContinuedThe post James’ 5 favourite stories of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: Independent Rotation – The Ludek Seryn Karel Rotation
We bring you the details and our thoughts on the new Karel Rotation by talented Czech watchmaker and new AHCI member Ludek Seryn.
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Classique Dame 9065 Tahitian Mother-of-Pearl
Following the launch of the Classique 5177 in blue enamel last year, Breguet has now unveiled its feminine equivalent, the Classique Dame 9065. It’s dressed up in feminine style with a Tahitian black mother-of-pearl dial and brilliant-cut diamonds, but still bears Breguet’s trademark design with pomme hands and Breguet-style numerals. A limited edition of 28 pieces, the watch has a dainty rose-gold case measuring 33.5mm wide and just 7.55mm high thanks to the ultra-thin movement inside. The case is classical Breguet, featuring slim, straight lugs and a finely fluted case band. The bezel and lugs are set with 88 brilliant-cut diamonds, totalling approximately 0.606 carats, while the crown is set with a ruby. They frame a dial covered with a thin slice of black mother-of-pearl. Derived from black-lipped oysters found in and around Tahiti and the French Polynesian islands, Tahitian mother-of-pearl is prized for its naturally dark colour as well as its visual complexity. Apart from being much rarer than white mother-of-pearl, it also has vivid undertones accented with overtones of marine colours like violet and green. The dial features Breguet-style Arabic numerals printed on the mother of pearl, and classic Breguet hands with a slight – and unfortunately kitschy – twist: the seconds hand has a heart-shaped counterweight. To match the heart-shaped seconds and ruby cabochon, the date features a red disc printed with off-white numerals. Visible through the sapphire case...
Time+Tide
Weekend watch spotting with JR
Weekends in Melbourne can mean several things: overpriced brunches with mates after a boozy night out on the town, hikes up the Dandenong Ranges’ unendingly popular “1000 steps”, day trips to the Peninsula Hot Springs and, if you’re a watch enthusiast, donning that special timepiece in your collection that wouldn’t dare see the light of … ContinuedThe post Weekend watch spotting with JR appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Why the Universal Genève Polerouter was the game-changing dial from the 1950s
Some watches take the world by storm the moment they are released. Some, however, take a little while longer to be appreciated. The true significance of the Universal Genève Polerouter, first released in 1954, and its subsequent offshoots are still in the process of being properly recognised. Not only was it the first really significant … ContinuedThe post Why the Universal Genève Polerouter was the game-changing dial from the 1950s appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
De Bethune DW5 Armilia: Science Fantasy Turned Horological Reality
The De Bethune DW5 is supposed to be, as its name suggests, a fantasy object, a dream of sci-fi splendor. Out of all the Dream Watch editions, though, the DW5 is by far the most fantasy inspired and has a good claim on being simply perfect.
Quill & Pad
How It’s Made: Inside The Breguet Castle Of Complications – Reprise
Few get to check out Breguet’s factory from the inside, and those who do generally don’t get to take photographs of what they see. This modernized factory in the heart of the remote Vallée de Joux with its many annexed hallways, secretive doors, and interesting manufacturing capabilities has long been a jealously guarded secret. Elizabeth Doerr reveals what's behind the doors at Breguet.
Quill & Pad
Harry Winston Opus Series: A Complete Overview From Opus 1 Through Opus 14
Since the Swatch Group took over Harry Winston, a continuation of the Opus series has been somewhat in doubt. But in 2015 the Opus 14 finally arrived. And now it has been quietly said that an Opus 15 is on the way. Which makes this a great time to look back on the groundbreaking series.
Deployant
Tudor Black Bay Bronze Slate-Grey
The Tudor Black Bay Bronze line was a clever offering by the brand to the then - 2016 most fashionable case metal. With the new colored dial and the ceased production of the original brown, the Black Bay Bronze is clearly here to stay. While they used to be offered with 2 straps, the leather and NATO, Tudor now only offers the watch in either leather or fabric.
Time+Tide
A guide to microbrand watches with big-box quality under $6000
How to define microbrand watches is a conversation topic that has worn out many watch journalists’ tongues. With proposed criteria ranging from price to retail model and everything in between, there isn’t much consistency in how this new phenomenon is received or perceived. Perhaps one thing that can unite the explosion of newcomers that the … ContinuedThe post A guide to microbrand watches with big-box quality under $6000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Pedrozo & Piriz PP01
Press Release information on the new brand - Pedrozo & Piriz and their ambitious debut watch - the PP01, with double flying tourbillons.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle
Chiming movements – as in a minute repeater or grande sonnerie – have been fairly consistent in construction, being both rare and difficult to master, let alone be improved upon. But over the past two decades, Jaeger-LeCoultre has developed an impressive number of engineering improvements for its repeating movements, from “trebuchet” hammers that are hinged like the medieval catapult for enhanced striking power, to “crystal” gongs that are welded to the sapphire crystal to boost volume. This year, the brand has added to its list of striking innovations with revamped, ultra-long gongs in the Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle, which was designed to raise both the quality and quantity of the chimes. The Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle with a grained, silver dial An elaborate case Available with the dial in either a blue flinqué enamel or a simpler, silvered and grained finish, the Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle (MGTRMP) combines a minute repeater with one of the most user-friendly perpetual calendar mechanisms on the market, plus automatic winding. The self-winding capability is important and practical, because the movement has a short 38-hour power reserve. The two dial variants. Image – Jaeger-LeCoultre All of that is naturally voluminous, and packed into a large white gold case measuring 43mm wide and 13.72mm high. Though by no means a small watch, it is surprisingly thin for such a grand...
Quill & Pad
Worldtimer vs. GMT: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph WT vs. IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Spitfire
Do you need to know the time in various time zones? What is the real difference between a worldtimer and a GMT watch? How complicated are these watches to use? Chris Malburg answers these questions and more after spending some quality time with two enchanting multi-time zone watches.
Hodinkee
The Grey NATO: Episode 97: Our Best Bits Of 2019
A look back at our best moments and favorite things from 2019.
Deployant
Musings on watch novelties presentations for 2020
We muse over the state of affairs with Baselworld and SIHH, and how this year's novelties presentations will play out for 2020.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Grand Seiko Elegance Spring Drive 20th Anniversary
At Baselworld last year, Seiko unveiled its take on the ultimate time-only watch, the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Spring Drive 20th Anniversary SBGZ001. The Grand Seiko SBGZ001 is powered by essentially the same movement as found in the Credor Eichi II, but dressed up with an engraved platinum case and dial, while also priced at quite a bit more than the Eichi II, with a retail of US$76,000. Also launched at the same time was the Grand Seiko SBGZ003, which is almost the same watch – having the same movement but minus the engraving on the case and dial, resulting in a US$57,000 price tag. With their cushion-shaped cases and dauphine hands – the hallmarks of the newish Elegance Collection – both the SBGZ001 and SBGZ003 are slightly more retro in style than the stark and contemporary Eichi II. But more importantly, they are powered by the 9R02, which is an upgraded version of the movement in the Eichi II and the most gorgeous movement ever found in a modern Grand Seiko. In short, both the SBGZ001 and SBGZ003 are watches with incredibly well finished movements – amongst the best in modern watchmaking anywhere – but with a couple of caveats, discussed below. The Grand Seiko SBGZ001 – watch courtesy of Mark Cho, founder of menswear store The Armoury The 9R02 Spring Drive movement Masterpieces from the studio All of Seiko’s top of the line watches – both Grand Seiko and Credor – come from the Micro Artist Studio, a workshop set up in 2000 to produce the fi...
Time+Tide
Nick’s 5 favourite watches of 2019
The more you look at different watches, the more critical you become, as you better understand what the watchmaker and designer were trying to achieve, and how successful they were at executing it in the final watch. This year, I got a lot of opportunities to handle hundreds of different watches, both new and vintage, … ContinuedThe post Nick’s 5 favourite watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Why you should always buy your watches on a bracelet when you have the chance
Very few watch straps are as integral to the overall look and feel of a watch as a bracelet can be. On occasions, the bracelet is as essential to the watch DNA as the watch head – a continuation of the same concept, snaking around the wrist. The most famous bracelet design of all time … ContinuedThe post Why you should always buy your watches on a bracelet when you have the chance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Mystery Vs. Transparency in luxury watchmaking – how much do you really want to know?
It is becoming increasingly common to see small, emerging microbrands threaten to “pull back the curtain” on the luxury watch industry, in an attempt to upend the established order and claim a slice of the suddenly democratised pie for themselves. But how effective, or even responsible a strategy is it? Is it time to stop … ContinuedThe post Mystery Vs. Transparency in luxury watchmaking – how much do you really want to know? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Year in review: Top 10 posts of 2019
As 2019 draws to a close, we are thankful for your support and readership this year. We also take a moment to reflect on the Top 10 posts for the year.
Revolution
2019 Revolution Awards: Brand of the Year
Revolution editors and writers pick the most outstanding timepieces of 2019; but let’s not forget the people and companies behind these stellar creations.
Time+Tide
Letter from the Deputy Editor: 2019 in review
As we float about in the liminal space between Christmas and the new year, it’s a great chance to reflect on the year that the watch world was in 2019. Andrew mentioned in his Letter from the Editor that 2019 could be defined by the hysterical focus on SSR (stainless steel Rolex), as well as … ContinuedThe post Letter from the Deputy Editor: 2019 in review appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115: Going Full Monty
The mechanical diva on the stage of the Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 movement is the big kahuna itself: the extremely large mainspring visible at 12 o’clock, which provides more than 10 days of power reserve. And quite a bit more according to Anders Modig.
SJX Watches
The Most Notable Watches of 2019
Oddly enough, one of the year’s highlights is a quartz watch that costs almost US$17,000 – but it is the most accurate wristwatch ever, rated to run within a second a year and probably less in practice. The Citizen Caliber 0100 slightly plain but the technology within is mighty impressive. Also impressive is the thought and effort put into developing the movement; that is extremely Japanese. It feels slightly anachronistic given the alternatives that can sync with GPS or radio waves and keep just as good time, but it is still mighty impressive. The top of the line model is in 18k white gold, explaining the price tag, but fortunately there’s a titanium model with the same movement for half the price. The Citizen Caliber 0100 The 0100S movement Sporty-ish and value For almost exactly the same price, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph scores high in terms of value for money. It’s an ultra-thin – really, really thin – chronograph with a second time zone function that continues Bulgari’s streak of extra-flat Octo watches. Though the design is thoroughly modern, its slimness and proportions give it a graceful air. But at 42mm the case is verges on looking like a biscuit because it is flat and wide. And the thinness of the movement, combined with a rather small balance wheel, inevitably invite questions about its robustness. The Octo chronograph That is very flat More expensive but also strong value for money is the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus. Looks-wise, it...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #156: 2020 Watch Collecting Goals
This week, the guys wrap up another year of TBWS shenanigans and chat through their 2020 watch collecting goals. Plus, they share some ideas about community building and organizing TBWS events in 2020.
Time+Tide
LIST: James Robinson’s favourite watch photos from 2019
It pains me so to admit this, but oftentimes a story is only as good as the photos that accompany it - especially when you’re writing about something as intricate and nuanced as watches. A good snap of a timepiece is not only the glorious icing on a particularly wordy cake, it actually assists us … ContinuedThe post LIST: James Robinson’s favourite watch photos from 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: The Chopard L.U.C Chrono One Flyback
We take a look at Chopard's new and revised L.U.C Chrono One Flyback, the new resident chronograph watch of the brand's esteemed L.U.C Collection.
Revolution
2019 Revolution Awards: Lifetime Achievement Award
Revolution editors and writers pick the most outstanding timepieces of 2019; but let’s not forget the people and companies behind these stellar creations.