Deployant
New and Reviewed: TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph x Gulf
We had encountered the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph x Gulf at WWG25. The release just makes it to market this week, we present our review of the watch.
Results for Co-Axial Escapement
3,590 articles · 1,665 videos found · page 91 of 176
Deployant
Worn & Wound
The Greatest Collectors of All Time: Courtenay Adrian Ilbert – A Passionate and Meticulous Collector with an Extraordinary Dedication to Horology
“The Greatest Collectors of All Time” is a series of features that will look at what drives a collector to collect and how they go about seeking out items they want for their collections. Here we look back through time to highlight the greatest horological collectors and showcase their particular area and passion for collecting. Courtenay Adrian Ilbert (1888–1956) was one of the most notable horological collectors of all time. He had the wealth, passion and enthusiasm that enabled him to amass an immense and varied collection. This was at a formative time when many unrecognized horological gems were coming to the market due to a developing appreciation of technical horology and world circumstances. His collection, known as the Ilbert Collection, included an impressive array of timepieces from the 16th century to his time, featuring some of the rarest and most exquisite watches, clocks, and horological instruments. Professionally, Ilbert was an engineer, and his technical knowledge informed his horological expertise. His engineering insights helped him appreciate the intricate workings of the timepieces he collected and restored. He was an extremely fine craftsman taking infinite patience in the matter of restoration and repair. Courtenay Adrian Ilbert (1888–1956) Born in Reading, Berkshire during the Victorian era, on the 22nd April 1888, his family background provided him with the stability and resources to pursue an excellent education. From a young age, Ilbert ...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar
Raymond Weil seems to be on a bit of a roll. The Millesime collection is broadly loved and appreciated, and these new Freelancers hit the spot too. Today, I go hands-on with two versions of the new Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar. I got to spend some time with the steel blue-dial version on the […] Visit Hands-On With The Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Certina DS Action Diver 40.5mm
Today, we go hands-on with a new Certina. The DS Action Diver 40.5mm is a significant release for the brand because it presents a new case size. In fact, most would argue that it will end up as the most successful model in the collection. Let’s take a closer look and discuss the merits of […] Visit Hands-On With The New Certina DS Action Diver 40.5mm to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Auctions: F.P. Journe Reveals Why He Paid More Than $6 Million For A Breguet Clock He Designed – To Showcase In His Upcoming Museum
Watchmaker bested rivals to buy the Breguet Pendule Sympathique No. 1 and says it will be a key part of a new museum dedicated to his work and its place in horology history.
Video
IN-DEPTH: The Return of the Revolutionary Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement
Worn & Wound
Zenith Introduces a Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar with a Lapis Lazuli Dial
One of my favorite releases from Watches & Wonders (and one of the best watches Zenith has made in years, in my opinion) was the G.F.J., a study in blue and a celebration of the brand’s 160th anniversary. The G.F.J. is something of a no-expenses-spared dream watch, with a platinum case and optional bracelet that basically doubles the price (because why not?) as well as a finely finished movement and loads of history built into the watch’s story, with a focus on the brand’s historic pursuits in chronometry. When I had that watch on my wrist I wondered how the G.F.J. line might expand, and if this watch was an opening salvo in a more ambitious series of releases to come. I don’t know that we have any answers to those questions, necessarily, with the release of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli today, but there’s certainly some connective tissue between Zenith’s newest novelty and the G.F.J. we saw a few months ago. Looking at the latest Zenith Triple Calendar, it’s impossible not to notice a certain aesthetic similarity to the G.F.J. Both make prominent use of lapis lazuli, one of the most common precious stones used in watchmaking. On the G.F.J., lapis is what makes up the majority of the dial space, with the stone in the main dial nicely complementing the blue mother of pearl in the subsidiary seconds. On this new Triple Calendar, the lapis is truly the star of the show, dominating the dial and only yielding for the three subregisters i...
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli
Continuing with the blue theme for its 160th anniversary, Zenith has upgraded its compact, vintage-inspired chronograph with a natural stone dial. The Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli is a combination of old and new, plus a luxe dial. The watch is equipped with the latest-generation El Primero movement, but dressed in a 1970s design – here upgraded with a dial of lapis lazuli, the same semiprecious stone found on the G.F.J. cal. 135 revival. Initial thoughts I like the basic design of the Chronomaster Original because it’s essentially a remake of the 1969 El Primero, which is a retro design that still works well today. Zenith has made too many exact replicas of the vintage originals, but fortunately the lapis lazuli edition is different. The stone dial sets it apart visually, while also giving it a more refined feel than the typical Zenith. Though simple, the lapis dial feels like a substantive upgrade to an established and appealing design. The upgraded dial, however, comes at a price that’s too steep. At US$22,700, the lapis dial costs almost US$10,000 more than the standard model with a brass dial. The difference is too much and equally difficult to justify. A prototype revived Although the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar a seems like a vintage remake, it is not exactly. Instead, the standard model introduced last year was based on a 1970s prototype that never made it intro production. So it has the familiar 1969 El Primero case and dial la...
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25”
Tudor released the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” for this year’s Miami F1 Grand Prix. The watch celebrates the collaboration with the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls (VCARB) Formula 1 team with a 2,025-piece limited run. I got a chance to go hands-on to see what’s what. I was delighted to get this opportunity because […] Visit Hands-On With The New Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The Monceau Model 01 gives a defunct brand a new lease on life
Escapement24's Simon Ryan brings back Monceau with the Model 01.The post The Monceau Model 01 gives a defunct brand a new lease on life appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A Quartz GMT That Actually Feels Fresh? Timex Might’ve Done It Again
Timex reinvents its Q series with the Continental GMT-an integrated bracelet, quartz watch inspired by sports models, priced under $200.
Video
Rihanna /Jacob & Co. CHOKER WATCH!! - Patek AD Sued For $500K, Lost Sub Found!!
Quill & Pad
Ulysse Nardin Sonata Cathedral Reviewed by Tim Mosso: Dual Time, Alarm, Big Date, and Cathedral Gongs, It Might Recharge your Enthusiasm Watches
The Ulysse Nardin Sonata Cathedral features a minute repeater, alarm, and cathedral gongs. Tim Mosso encourages collectors who need to recharge their enthusiasm for the hobby to go out and find watches like this: rare, fine, complicated, and depreciated.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 for the Brand’s 250th Anniversary
As you might know now, after our initial article, Breguet is celebrating its 250th anniversary, and we’ll be seeing a fleet of new models released throughout the year, all made of 18k Breguet gold and paying tribute to some of the most important inventions of its founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet. Initiated by the launch of the […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Serica 5303 PLD - Made In Collaboration With The French Navy
Did you know an amagnetic mechanical watch is a key part of an EOD (Explosive Ordnance Disposal) diver’s equipment? Admittedly, I didn’t. However, as it turns out, the slightest magnetic disturbance can set off explosives, rendering any battery-powered watch dangerous to EOD divers. Because of this, the French Navy turned to Serica for an amagnetic […] Visit Hands-On With The New Serica 5303 PLD - Made In Collaboration With The French Navy to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the echo/neutra Chrono GMT
Sometimes, no matter how many hours we spend scrolling on Instagram and monitoring various watch-focused group chats, things slip through the cracks. Watches that check all the right boxes to rise above the noise of a crowded market go unnoticed and become sleeper hits instead of hits, and creativity that deserves widespread celebration instead receives a splattering of quiet applause. For collectors that enjoy witnessing brands evolve and develop distinct design DNA in real time, it can be a bummer to discover your radar missed something great. But on the bright side, this scenario allows for instant gratification and the opportunity to speed run a brand’s evolution to the present day. This was my experience when Italian microbrand echo/neutra released the Rivanera at the end of last year. Like many of you, I was pleasantly caught off guard by the rugged take on the classic rectangular dress watch, but didn’t recognize the name divided by a distinct slash on the dial. This sent me digging through surprisingly sparse reviews and forum threads where I discovered that the Rivanera was far from beginner’s luck, and was actually the result of a year’s long evolution that began in the way many do, with a safe and somewhat generic field watch on Kickstarter. Watching aging YouTube videos, this actual first release called the Averau (which later included a very cool moon phase) looks like exactly the type of watch I would’ve chased in 2019 when specs and MSRP were my pr...
Hodinkee
Business News: Switzerland Moves Closer To U.S. Trade Deal That Could Bring Tariff Relief For Watch Industry
U.S. Treasury Secretary Scott Bessent says Switzerland has climbed to the front of the queue for trade deals.
Video
$249 Beautiful Vintage Style Diver - TP & Co Automatic Dive Watch 38mm COMPRESSOR Tonneau Case
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Arnie Review: The Discontinued Icon
Before getting into the Seiko "Arnie," I must discuss the man who made it an icon on the big screen. Arnold Schwarzenegger is a guy who knows watches. Or he is at least a guy who is very clear and consistent about the types of watches that he likes. In terms of impact on the watch industry, few celebrity enthusiasts have been as huge (pun intended) as Schwarzenegger, the former “Mr. Universe” from Austria who dominated the big screen during the 1980s and ‘90s in high-testosterone blockbusters like Conan the Barbarian, Predator, Commando, Total Recall, End of Days, and the Terminator series. Along with his fellow iconic action star, Sylvester Stallone, Schwarzenegger helped bring Panerai and its hypermasculine, military style to the attention of millions, kicking off a fascination with large, bulky watches that more or less defined the early 2000s. He also played a significant role in taking Audemars Piguet’s boldly styled Royal Oak Offshore out from under the shadow of the original Royal Oak and into a pop-cultural milieu all its own, famously donning a specially tailored model for his 1999 thriller, End of Days. From this, one can make the assumption that Arnold, who also went on to become the governor of California, loves big watches with mechanical movements from historic Swiss maisons. But in at least two of the movies listed above, he turned instead to a Japanese watch with an analog-digital display - still plenty big, but at the time priced in a range tha...
Monochrome
First Look – The New Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Edition
The announcement two years ago of the comeback of Daniel Roth under Louis Vuitton’s direction gave us great hopes. Luckily, we didn’t have to wait long to see the first result of this anticipated return, which started with a yellow gold Tourbillon Souscription, a faithful tribute to the late-1980s reference C187 Tourbillon watch by Mr […]
Worn & Wound
Editorial: The Apple Watch Turns Ten
The Apple Watch is not a very good watch. I’d even go so far as to say that it represents everything I don’t like in a watch. It’s disposable, generic to the point of ugly, and demands a level of focus and engagement I find downright offensive. To borrow a phrase from the inimitable Peter Griffin, “It insists upon itself.” And yet, the Apple Watch has become an invaluable, irreplaceable part of my life. This spring marks a decade since the Apple Watch first went on sale. I bought mine shortly after launch, in anticipation of my freshman year of college, at a point when I was still trying to sort out what interests and identity I would carry with me into that new phase (turns out, tech-head, sort of no; watch geek, undoubtedly yes). The Apple Watch, along with a beat-up Victorinox and a vintage Hamilton, made up my total stable of wrist-borne options my first year in Granville, Ohio. You’d think with that few watches available to me, the Apple Watch would have gotten a lot of wrist time, and it did, at least for the first few months. Still, by the end of my freshman year, I was basically done with the Apple Watch. It was clear even then that the premise had some promise, but I felt like I’d gotten all I could out of the nascent device. The first Apple Watch was, if I’m being honest (and I think Tim Cook would agree with me), kind of useless - more a proof of concept or statement of intent than a finished product. It did very little, and what it did do was ...
Fratello
Hot Take: The Nezumi Corbeau - Pan Am Edition
Today, we’re looking at the Nezumi Corbeau - Pan Am Edition. The Stockholm-based brand creates crowd-pleasing watches at even more likable prices. Plus, with quartz movements inside some pieces, they work well as grab-and-go options. We read plenty of comments on Fratello about the escalating prices of new watches. Therefore, it’s nice to cover a […] Visit Hot Take: The Nezumi Corbeau - Pan Am Edition to read the full article.
Monochrome
Industry News – Dubai Watch Week Returns in 2025 with over 90 Participating Brands
One of the key events in the region and the global watch calendar, Dubai Watch Week is held every two years. Since its creation, the show has become one of the unmissable events of the industry, and it is back bigger than ever and in a new location for the 2025 edition. Organized under the patronage […]
Video
Furlan Marri co-founder Andrea Furlan shares brand misconceptions, milestones, and more
SJX Watches
Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34 mm
A. Lange & Söhne delivered one of its most impressive complications at Watches & Wonders 2025, but it was the brand’s entry level novelty that was the talk of the town. The 1815 34 mm won many admirers, and for good reason; it’s attractive, comfortable, well-made, and priced right – an increasingly rare combination. Available in either 18k white or pink gold, the new 1815 is a regular production model but features a galvanic blue dial most often associated with the brand’s limited editions. It joins the Saxonia Thin as Lange’s entry-level offering; both are priced comparably but look and feel very different. Initial thoughts Small watches are back, and the 1815 design works perfectly in the 34 mm size due to its bold numerals, which help it maintain a strong presence on the wrist. The case size now goes without saying, but it’s worth mentioning the 6.4 mm thickness, which places it among the brand’s thinnest watches. This sizing is effortlessly comfortable, and the abundance of gold, sterling silver, and German silver give it reassuring heft. Like most Lange dials, the stepped blue dial of the 1815 is made from sterling silver that’s been given a galvanic finish. This particular shade of blue is often used for limited editions like the 25th anniversary Datograph and 30th anniversary Lange 1, which makes it feel extra special. Longtime fans of the brand will recall this dial harks back to the first-generation 1815 that was available with a similar dial (and...
Worn & Wound
Zenith Adds a Rose Gold Version of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar to the Collection
In the year and three months since they reintroduced the El Primero Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar, Zenith has been cooking up new references and colorways for the crowd-favorite complication. Next in this wave is the new 18k Rose Gold & Black model, wrapped in the ever-popular material and boasting the same sportiness mixed with refinement that the Triple Calendar has become known for. Housed in a 38mm case (46mm lug-to-lug) and sharing proportions with previous stainless steel models, the new Rose Gold variant also features hour markers, subdials, and hands in the material-and coated in SuperLuminova SLN C1- to contrast the sleek black of the dial. A matching black calfskin leather strap with a rose gold folding clasp completes the look, giving the Chronomaster a profile that oscillates between elegant and intimidating. Inside, the new Chronomaster features the same El Primero 3610 movement with automatic column-wheel chronograph functionality. The complete calendar and moonphase indications both lend the dial a swath of functionality and add aesthetic flavor. Also carried over from previous models is the 60-hour power reserve and 50 meters of water resistance, placing the Chronomaster solidly in the dress-to-sport watch camp. A new colorway and case material for an iconic and consistently popular line of watches is always exciting, and Zenith has delivered with this new (and familiar) Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar reference. Whether or not rose ...
SJX Watches
Record Breaking Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Debuts at Auction
If you want to own the world’s thinnest mechanical watch, the Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing, you’ll have to fight for it at The Geneva Watch Auction: XXI, which will see the first production example go under the hammer. The 1.65 mm stature of the ThinKing is even more impressive coming from a small Russian independent watchmaker, considering previous records were set by big Swiss brands ranging from Piaget to Richard Mille. Notably, this is not the first time a landmark release has been trusted to an auction that isn’t linked to a charity. The most famous example of this was the Patek Philippe Calibre 89 (ref. 989J) back in 1989 at Antiquorum’s thematic sale. The ThinKing will be sold in the first session of the auction, which starts on May 10, 2025, at 2 pm. The ThinKing in profile. Image – Phillips Mr Chaykin achieved the record-setting height with clever construction, including a “double balance wheel” system that places an intermediate wheel between the balance and escapement, allowing both to sit on the same plane. Another notable technical feature is a barrel that is open on both sides, and no thicker than the mainspring itself. And unlike most serially-produced Konstantin Chaykin watches, each ThinKing is made, finished, and assembled by Mr Chaykin himself. Wearability is enhanced by the bolt-on protective shroud in titanium christened “PalanKing”. This increases the height to 5.4 mm, but adds key-less setting and winding, and automatic winding by a...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Sublime Doxa Sub 250T GMT
When Doxa dropped the new Sub 250T GMT a month ago, it was met with near-universal praise. Nine different dial options debuted, including the most famous Doxa colorways. We saw all of them in Geneva and had the opportunity to spend time with them at Fratello HQ. Today, I’ll review these pieces and address the […] Visit Hands-On With The Sublime Doxa Sub 250T GMT to read the full article.
Fratello
The Best Overall Lineup? Parmigiani Fleurier At Watches And Wonders 2025
Writing and talking about watches is a lot of fun, but there are times when it’s a chore. Penning today’s article exemplifies the kind of “work” I enjoy. You see, Parmigiani is one of my favorite brands, hands down, and I’m always up for covering a new release. Today, I’ll go several steps better than […] Visit The Best Overall Lineup? Parmigiani Fleurier At Watches And Wonders 2025 to read the full article.
Video