Hodinkee
Introducing: The Doxa SUB 750T Clive Cussler
A limited edition for what would have been the author's 94th birthday. Who could argue with a thinner Doxa?
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Three-link semi-circular Rolex bracelet introduced for the 1956 Day-Date; Crownclasp closure.
1970s-80s lacquered colour dials for Rolex Day-Date; red / turquoise / salmon / lavender. Auction range $200k-$1M+.
Every Rolex Day-Date "President": 1803, 18038, 18238, 118238, Day-Date 40 (228xxx), Day-Date 36 (128xxx).
Ronaldo brought a Rainbow Daytona, Messi pulled out a turquoise-dial Day-Date, and Casemiro is the surprise of the bunch with an F.P. Journe. Every wrist worth talking about so far.
Hodinkee
A limited edition for what would have been the author's 94th birthday. Who could argue with a thinner Doxa?
Worn & Wound
Though the more famous forms of rally racing would come later in the 1970s and 1980s, the ‘50s and ‘60s hosted some of the most daring, grueling, and downright perilous rally races in history. Without the comforts and safety considerations of our modern cars, rally drivers in the “golden age of motor racing” were just a few layers of sheet metal away from careening off mountain faces and flying into crevasses, paving the way for even more extreme rally categories, like Group B, to follow. In a celebration of the raw emotion of the Coupes Des Alpes, or “Alpine Rally”-one of the most hairball (and scenic) rally races of the midcentury-Zurich-based watchmakers Ollech & Wajs have partnered with automotive event organizer Rallystory to create the Rallychron “Coupe Des Alpes” Edition chronograph. Founded in 1956, the Swiss brand has based the design and functionality of the Rallychron on their own competition timers from the 1960s. The brushed 316L stainless steel case measures in at a sporty 39.5mm in diameter and 15.3mm in thickness; appropriate sizing for both legibility at high speeds and comfort in high-endurance situations, like motorsport. Twin pushers and a screw-down crown fill out the heritage-style construction of the case, while the date is manipulated with a pusher at the 10 o’clock position. The unidirectional bezel is PVD-coated in black and features a tachymetric scale and inscriptions of “11 perfect lap times”, a fun motorsport Easter...
Teddy Baldassarre
When watch enthusiasts think of Casio, most think first and foremost about G-Shock, the undisputed flagship of the Japanese brand's timepiece lineup and the model that put Casio, a multinational tech giant known primarily for calculators, digital cameras, and electronic musical keyboards, on the map as a watchmaker. (G-Shock has in recent years become so dominant that it now identifies as its own brand, separate from other Casio-branded watches, with its own distinctive design language and sub-families; we list the most notable G-Shock watches here.) But throughout its relatively short history of watchmaking, which began in 1974, Casio has released other very memorable watches, several of which became not only commercially successful (particularly in the 1980s, the heyday of digital watches) but also pop-culture touchstones to their era. Here we list 20 noteworthy Casio watches and make the case for their classic status; you will find some G-Shocks here, because any list of classic Casio watches would be incomplete without them. But you'll also discover a few modern models from Casio watch series you may be less familiar with, as well as some that you may find familiar from movies and TV. You'll also find that nearly all the watches on the list, arranged in ascending order of price, will cost much less than you might expect. Casio F91W Digital Sport Watch Price: $22.95, Case Size: 38.2mm x 35.2mm, Case Height: 8.5mm, Crystal: Resin glass, Water Resistance: Water resis...
Worn & Wound
Last fall (2024), I felt the itch for something new-that hankering one gets when they just need a new watch. I usually resist, but this time, the fates had a different plan for me. You see, sitting on the forums was an unworn Ming 37.07 Monolith just looking for a good home. I had wanted a Ming for a while, but found myself never in the right place at the right time-or with the right amount of watch-budget when they were released. For a while, in those post-COVID bubble days, Ming’s watches sold out really fast. So, you were either ready at the moment… or not. So, when the 37.07 Monolith, my favorite of the brand’s most recent generation of watches (up until that point), unworn and slightly below retail, was available, I knew I had to go for it. Since its arrival, it has become one of my most frequently worn watches. Not just because it’s new, though that always is a factor, but because there is something wholly different about it from any other watch I’ve owned. It’s modern to the bone-sleek, mysterious, and compelling. The dial defies convention by appearing surfaceless and void-like, without printed or applied markers. It’s minimal yet legible, giving you just enough. And it’s surprisingly comfortable to wear, hugging the wrist with a generously domed profile. But why am I talking about this watch when this article is intended as a review for a different model, the 37.02 Ghost? While different models, they are both part of the 37-series, as are sev...
Worn & Wound
Seiko, through their Seiko 5 Sports line, recently unveiled a watch that, five or six years ago, probably would have broken the watch internet. The SKX Series is a collection within the Seiko 5 Sports lineup that directly references the SKX line of Seiko divers, which are perhaps the most iconic of all enthusiast focused watches. The SKX Series under the Seiko 5 Sports banner is not new, but this new quartet of divers feels like the most direct callback to the classic SKX007 and SKX009 yet. When the SKX watches were discontinued, it was the talk of the watch internet. And the (re)introduction of the Seiko 5 Sports line, as a pseudo-replacement, also drove a lot of conversation, much of it dismissive, or yearning for the “old days” of Seiko when the truly affordable SKX watches (real dive watches, we were always reminded) could be purchased easily by any budding collector. These new watches which connect directly to that SKX lineage say a lot about the state of the brand, and their reception to this point, I think, says even more about the community. Before we get too deep into the meta-commentary of what these watches mean in enthusiast circles, let’s quickly get some basic objective stats out of the way. The new references (the SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87 and SRPL89, which feature blue, black, yellow and orange dials, respectively) all measure identically to the Seiko 5 Sports watches which debuted back in 2019. That means cases coming in at 42.5mm in diameter, 13.9m...
Hodinkee
A candidate of the AHCI since 2023 at the age of 27, Shona Taine's brand Khemea shows big promise for the future of haute horlogerie.
Revolution
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vantage Chronograph First up this week is a gorgeous vintage Vantage chronograph. The original and mint black and white “reverse panda” dial is just a beauty, with perfectly aged lume. Similar styling to the famous Heuer Carrera, that’s why it’s referred to as a “poor man’s Carrera”, but honestly aside from the name, this watch is just as good at a very reasonable price. The steel case is nice and sharp, and the Valjoux 7733 manual wind movement is clean as a whistle and runs well per the seller. If you’re looking for a nice vintage chronograph, it’s hard to beat this Vantage. View auction here Bulova Sea King Here’s an unusual Bulova Sea King. The oval style steel case definitely stands out with its unique shape. Unpolished, with original finish and crisp edges. The N0 date code dates the watch to 1970. The charcoal dial is excellent, with the Sea King Whale logo and a day/date window at 3 o’clock. The watch comes on a period-correct stretch band that definitely suits the watch if you like the stretch bands. There is no movement picture but the watch runs well per the seller. View auction here Vintage Lord Elgin This vintage Lord Elgin is a sweet dress watch, ...
Revolution
Hodinkee
Amongst Paul Newman Daytonas and Richard Milles, there's also artwork from names like René Magritte and Pablo Picasso.
Revolution
Monochrome
Mercedes-Benz and racing go hand-in-hand. After all, it’s one of the most successful manufacturers in both pre-war Grand Prix, post-war Formula 1 and Endurance Racing, birthing many legendary cars. From the very early days of motor racing, the brand has been active in all sorts of categories. It won the 1914 French Grand Prix with […]
Hodinkee
The UR-230 gets the polar treatment right in time for the Holidays.
Revolution
Quill & Pad
The red carpet prize giving for the 2024 GPHG) will take place in Geneva on Wednesday the 13 November 2024. There are 16 categories with six finalists in each category making a total of 96 watches in the final round.
SJX Watches
Originally conceived as a prop for the sci-fi film Interstellar, the Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38 mm is now available with a white dial or a stainless steel bracelet. This expands the Khaki Field Murph line two beyond the 42 mm original and the first 38 mm model that was only available with a black dial on a strap. The scaled-down Murph retains the same design as the original, which played a key role in the film directed by Christopher Nolan, which starred Jessica Chastain as Murph, a scientist working to save the Earth. Initial thoughts The Murph was a hit when it went from screen to store in 2019. It had a clean, vintage-military aesthetic with cathedral hands and no date, along with an affordable price tag. Now the white dial arguably gives it a more dynamic look than before, with the white adding contrast and also setting it apart from the numerous other military-inspired watches. Though the design isn’t novel, the Murph 38 mm is appealing for being simple and affordable. Starting at US$895 on a strap, the Murph 38 mm sits in between comparable watches from its sister brands Tissot and Longines, and is also in between in terms of fit and finish. In other words, it is priced right. Vintage-inspired aesthetics Water-resistant to 100 m, the Murph’s stainless steel case is a compact 38 mm in diameter, though tall at 11.1 mm high. The case is mainly brushed, except for the mirror-polished bezel. The optional steel bracelet has a matching brushed finish. And like most m...
Revolution
SJX Watches
Inspired by Russian avant-garde art of the early 20th century, Raketa’s collection of the same name reproduces the graphic, geometric style on watch dials. The Raketa Avant-Garde 0292 is starkly and characterised by bold shapes. And unlike its predecessors, the new Avant-Garde does away with hour markers, which detracts from legibility but makes it all the more striking. Initial thoughts At first glance, the Avant-Garde appears abstract but is actually entirely conventional with three hands on a central axis. While readability is mixed at best, the dial has presence. The boldly graphic dial instantly evokes the art that inspired it, though it is not a like-for-like reproduction. Of all the art-inspired Raketa watches to date, this is the most interesting. Priced at €1,625, the new Avant-Garde sits at the higher end of the range for watches of this segment; comparable watches would be those equipped with Miyota calibres. However, the Avant-Garde has the advantage of striking, original aesthetics that are coherent with the brand and its history. Most “artistic” watches in this price segment tend to have less coherent artistic sensibilities. Granted, the fact that the dial is inspired by Russian art may be a turn-off for some, but the watch in itself is an appealing one. Initial thoughts The Avant-Garde 0292 is modelled on Beat the Whites with the Red Wedge, a Bolshevik propaganda poster created during the Russian Civil War by El Lissitzky, a leading artist of the R...
Worn & Wound
One of the core challenges among modern watchmakers is balancing past, present, and future-honoring the traditions of this centuries-old art form, harnessing new technologies, and looking toward the next generation of collectors. When you think of a brand like Ulysse Nardin, you might assume its focus is chiefly on the latter two. It was nearly 25 years ago that the brand paved the way for the use of silicon in watchmaking, a material that has now become vital to countless manufacturers across the industry. Ulysse Nardin debuted its silicon escapement wheel in the Freak, aptly named for its seemingly absurd design featuring no dial, no hands, and no crown-the first of its kind. “The Freak is counterculture in watchmaking,” asserts François-Xavier Hotier, President of Ulysse Nardin Americas. “It breaks all the rules we knew before.” In order to break the rules, you must know the rules, and Ulysse Nardin’s more than 175-year history is proof the brand knows a thing or two about traditional watchmaking. In the early days, the maison built a reputation for its marine chronometers and complex pocket watches. Even into the 21st Century, Ulysse Nardin has continued to emphasize its commitment to artistic craft, acquiring its own enamel-dial manufacture in 2011, a decade after the introduction of the Freak. Now, the latest incarnation of the Freak fully embodies the brand’s attention to the future, present, and past. At Watches & Wonders earlier this spring, I...
Deployant
We attended the MB&F; HM8 Mk2 Blue launch event at the MB&F; Lab by The Hour Glass, and bring you this event report and our hands-on with the new watch.
Hodinkee
And one nature-inspired wild card from Grand Seiko.
Hodinkee
Forget about Paul Newman Daytonas, these chronographs are the truly Holy Grail for Rolex collectors.
Monochrome
Released in 2021, the Chronoscope was a surprising take on the classic Speedmaster, combining a large case, a two-counter dial (usually found in larger versions and racing-oriented models) with a vintage-inspired dial bearing no fewer than three snailed-shaped tracks. Untouched since its presentation, which included steel and bronze-gold versions, the Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope collection now […]
Hodinkee
JLC combines a chronograph and moonphase in its innovative model defined by its two independent gear trains.
Worn & Wound
The Navitimer is one of a very small handful of watches that is quite simply an undisputed classic. If you say the name, it conjures an immediate image in the mind’s eye: a busy pilot’s chronograph with an uncommon (but completely useful) slide rule bezel. It has the look of a real flight instrument because in a very real sense that’s exactly what it is. But the very idea of what a Navitimer can be has changed a lot in recent years, with the introduction of references that skip the chronograph entirely. The Navitimer is now more than just a single iconic watch, it’s a collection of aviation inspired watches that use the classic as a starting point but branch out into all kinds of new areas. It’s the kind of thing that purists, frankly, sneer at. But it’s an undeniably shrewd move by Breitling to get the Navitimer name out there, and the watches on the wrists of new customers who may not be interested in a toolish chronograph whose design hasn’t changed much for decades. So now, in an expansion of the collection tied to Breitling’s 140th anniversary, we have a new Navitimer GMT and Automatic 41. The Navitimer Automatic 41 is perhaps the most straightforward execution of the Navitimer aesthetic, sans chronograph, yet. It’s not the first Navitimer in a 41mm case without a chrono complication, but it is the first without a date at the 6:00 position. This dateless execution is considerably cleaner and will probably be of greater appeal to enthusiasts than ...
Quill & Pad
Sergio Galanti takes us on a journey through the socio-economic and technological events that have influenced the progress of timekeeping in Europe.
Hodinkee
It's a bold move made all the more impactful mere days ahead of Watches & Wonders.
Revolution
Hodinkee
Watches That Say "I love you" or "I love myself" more poignantly than a frilly card or a box of chocolates ever could…
Worn & Wound
This week marks the unofficial (but also kind of official) beginning of a busy season of new watch releases with LVMH Watch Week. In recent years, LVMH Watch Week has served as an initial showcase for new novelties from the big brands that fall under the LVMH umbrella, and sets the stage for a period that culminates with Watches & Wonders in April. The timeline is a holdover from an era when trade shows were truly trade shows and watch brands would lock in their sales to worldwide dealer networks for the year. These days, that still happens, but it’s also full of very public launches and an all out media blitz by the brands. If the past is any indication, we’re likely to see splashy new release announcements from brands in the other big luxury groups as well as many independents in the coming months, but it kicks off with LVMH, and specifically Zenith, today. Zenith’s big new LVMH Watch Week announcement this year is the return of the El Primero Triple Calendar, a favorite reference among collectors going back decades for its mix of sportiness and old-school refinement. The triple calendar has faded in popularity as a complication over the course of time, largely due to movement availability, but also simply thanks to a trend toward cleaner and less complicated designs. But the El Primero execution of the triple calendar has always been particularly well balanced in the way it conserves dial space and makes use of the chronograph subdials to draw the eye where it n...
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