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Pie Pan Dial Omega

Faceted multi-level dial designed by Pierre Vibert for the 1952 Omega Constellation; modern Globemaster reissue.

Introducing - The J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Radiant Tantalum Monopusher Chronograph Monochrome
Shapiro Infinity Series Radiant Tantalum Jun 16, 2026

Introducing - The J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Radiant Tantalum Monopusher Chronograph

In just a few years, J.N. Shapiro, initially a niche American independent focused on exceptional guilloché dials, has become one of the most ambitious names in contemporary American watchmaking.  Founder Josh Shapiro’s Resurgence project demonstrated that high-end mechanical horology can once again be produced in the United States, and the Infinity Series has allowed him […]

Insight: A Look At The Fusee and Chain SJX Watches
Ming from Jun 16, 2026

Insight: A Look At The Fusee and Chain

The fusee and chain system is one of those terms in high horology parlance that instantly elevates the status of a given watch. And yet few appreciate the elegance and subtle complexities of this horological contraption that surprisingly predates the invention of the hairspring itself. The need for constant torque A high-performance oscillating system requires a somewhat constant power source in order to keep it swinging consistently. This issue relates to isochronism and the insufficiencies of real-world oscillators. For a watch, this means that its precision is, to a degree, dependent on how constant the torque reaching the escapement is. This is not as easy as one might think. The mainspring stores potential energy in its wound coils, which it then slowly feeds into the gear train as the barrel unwinds. Because of how the system is built, and due to physics-related constraints, the power coming from the mainspring barrel is all but constant. Ideally, the torque would be linearly decreasing — meaning that the slope of the barrel torque is directly proportional to the arming angle. Coiled mainspring inside a barrel. When a mainspring barrel is fully wound, the torque it feeds into the going train is maximal, sometimes causing the balance wheel to swing too wide and over-bank. As the mainspring unwinds, the torque stabilises to a steadily declining rate. But as the movement enters its last hours of power reserve, the torque from the barrel decreases considerably and more...

Doxa Introduces the Long Awaited Sub 200 T.Graph II Worn & Wound
Omega Jun 15, 2026

Doxa Introduces the Long Awaited Sub 200 T.Graph II

Doxa is one of those watch brands where the lore is kind of hard to escape. Every release is the subject of intense enthusiast discussion as the watches are contextualized through a complex history. There’s real mystique to the brand, which I think largely stems from the fact that Doxa’s dive watches were always true enthusiast products, made for actual divers as tools of their trade. This sets them apart from Rolex, Omega, and many other Swiss luxury houses, not because they didn’t also make tools for real divers (they certainly did), but because they also focused their attention on more mainstream pursuits. Doxa, at least in the public imagination, 50+ years on, did not. They’re seen as a brand for purists, and still appreciated by them to a great extent, even if they sometimes do something that’s a little on trend. There’s perhaps no watch in their catalog with more lore attached to it than the Sub 200 T.Graph, a chronograph version of the Doxa’s iconic Sub 200 diver. This watch was briefly released in a very limited way all the way back in 2019, and, ever since, collectors and fans of the brand have been clamoring for a non-limited edition. This week, Doxa has given the people what they want, with the introduction of the Sub 200 T.Graph II.  The new Sub 200 T.Graph II is, at least on the surface, exactly what you’d expect a modern, permanent version of the T.Graph to be. It is sized down just slightly from the 2019 limited edition, with a 42mm case in ...

Honorary Patek Philippe President Philippe Stern Passes Away: 1938-2026 Hodinkee
Patek Philippe President Philippe Stern Passes Jun 15, 2026

Honorary Patek Philippe President Philippe Stern Passes Away: 1938-2026

Philippe Stern, the visionary executive who led Patek Philippe through the end of the quartz crisis, kept the family company independent and secured its position at the top of Swiss mechanical high horology, died on June 14th at the age of 88. The Geneva-based company announced Philippe Stern's passing in a statement calling the Patek Philippe Honorary President a "pioneering and visionary spirit" who "left an indelible mark on the history of the family manufacture, preserving its independence and establishing its global stature." Philippe Stern. Photo courtesy Patek Philippe. Stern led Patek Philippe as President from 1993 to 2009. During his tenure, he consolidated Patek Philippe's manufacturing at a new flagship manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva. He integrated its production capabilities to bring as much as possible in-house. He also oversaw the launch of the Nautilus sport watch in the 1970s, the multi-year project to build the Caliber 89, the most complicated portable mechanical watch at the time, boasting 33 complications. In 2001, he inaugurated the Patek Philippe museum in Geneva, an unparalleled exhibition of not only Patek Philippe but of the entire history of horology. Philippe Stern was born in 1938 into a family already at the center of Swiss watchmaking: his grandfather, Charles Stern, had recently acquired the Patek Philippe manufacture in 1932, and his father, Henri Stern, had just joined the company. After studying economics and commerce, Philippe Ste...

“La Pilota” - A New Tudor Film Tells the Story Of A Record-Setting Aviator and Her Watches Hodinkee
Tudor Film Tells Jun 15, 2026

“La Pilota” - A New Tudor Film Tells the Story Of A Record-Setting Aviator and Her Watches

In Greek mythology, there is the well-known story of Icarus, a heady youth whose lofty aspirations send him flying on homemade wings of feathers and wax. In its cautionary denouement, Icarus flies too high and gets too close to the sun, melting the wax, sending him crashing back to Earth. If Carina Massone Negrone knew the story of Icarus, she would also likely have known that the greater the altitude, the danger is not the sun's heat but extreme cold and a lack of oxygen. And yet, in 1935, the Italian aviator set an altitude record in an open-cockpit piston-powered airplane that remains unbroken to this day. Tudor has just debuted a short documentary film about Negrone, called "La Pilota: The Daring Story of Marchesa Carina Massone Negrone", which covers the flying pioneer's remarkable life and the watches—Tudors, of course—that she wore. Carina Massone Negrone was a "marchesa," a noblewoman by her marriage to a marquise, and could have enjoyed a life of ease in her palazzo in Genova. But her adventurous spirit compelled her to pursue activities that might have seemed "unladylike" in 1930s Italy. She was an avid swimmer and skier and fished the Mediterranean for sharks. And in 1933, at the age of 22, she took flying lessons from an Italian fighter pilot and became the first woman to get her pilot's license from the Reale Unione Nazionale Aeronautica. Only a year later, she set an altitude record for a seaplane by flying to 5,544 meters. But she wasn't done yet—far f...

In-Depth - Diving with the new Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II, The Return of the Brand’s Diving Chronograph Monochrome
Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II Jun 15, 2026

In-Depth - Diving with the new Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II, The Return of the Brand’s Diving Chronograph

There’s a particular type of watch that doesn’t feel the need to explain itself. It doesn’t have a fancy movement with a skeletonised rotor. It doesn’t come in a box made of rare-earth metals the size of a carry-on. It doesn’t require trips to maisons and ateliers. It just shows up, orange-faced and slightly thick, […]

Sunday Morning Showdown: Nomos Tangente Neomatik 39 Vs. Oris Artelier Hölstein Edition 2026 Fratello
Nomos Tangente Neomatik 39 Vs Jun 14, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Nomos Tangente Neomatik 39 Vs. Oris Artelier Hölstein Edition 2026

Oh yes, indeed, it is already Sunday again! Time flies, doesn’t it? The one upside of life rushing by is that it is already time for another Sunday Morning Showdown, our weekly highlight. This week, Thomas and Daan throw two minimalist, design-first dress watches into the ring. Thomas puts forward the classic Nomos Tangente Neomatik […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Nomos Tangente Neomatik 39 Vs. Oris Artelier Hölstein Edition 2026 to read the full article.

Introducing - The Arnold & Son HM London Skyline x The Limited Edition Monochrome
Arnold & Son HM London Skyline x Jun 12, 2026

Introducing - The Arnold & Son HM London Skyline x The Limited Edition

Arnold & Son, the brand founded in honour of the famous 18th-century English watchmaker John Arnold, translates his historical legacy into high-end Swiss watches powered by in-house movements – about 20 to date. Arnold & Son’s HM line is the brand’s more dress-oriented collection and is also powered by a powerful, ultra-thin, in-house calibre. A […]

Windup Watch Fair Chicago Returns July 10th - 12th at an Exciting New Venue Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Citizen eBay Live Jun 11, 2026

Windup Watch Fair Chicago Returns July 10th - 12th at an Exciting New Venue

We’re back in Chicago and we feel it! From July 10–12, Windup Watch Fair Chicago returns for its fifth year, bringing together over 70 watch brands, thousands of enthusiasts, and some of the best conversations in watch collecting. This year, we’re excited to welcome everyone to an all-new home: Morgan MFG, a stunning industrial event space located just steps from Chicago’s vibrant Fulton Market district. Windup Watch Fair Chicago Friday, June 10 – Sunday, June 12, 2026 Morgan MFG 401 N Morgan St Suite #100 Chicago, IL 60642 Free and open to everyone. No registration necessary. The move to Morgan MFG marks an exciting new chapter for Windup Chicago. The venue offers significantly more room to explore, gather, and discover, along with something every watch enthusiast appreciates: incredible natural light. Whether you’re photographing your latest find, evaluating a new release, or simply enjoying a weekend surrounded by fellow enthusiasts, Morgan MFG provides an ideal backdrop for what promises to be our biggest Chicago event yet. As always, admission is free and open to everyone, making Windup the perfect place for seasoned enthusiasts and newcomers alike to get hands-on with watches they may have only seen online. We’re also thrilled to announce our lead sponsors for Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2026: Atelier Wen, Christopher Ward, Citizen, eBay Live, and Oris. We’re so grateful to our returning Lead Sponsors with their enthusiast-tuned collections. Stay tuned ...

A Hands-On Introduction To The New Raymond Weil A.R.T. Collection Fratello
Raymond Weil A.R.T Collection Ever since Jun 10, 2026

A Hands-On Introduction To The New Raymond Weil A.R.T. Collection

Ever since Raymond Weil won the GPHG Challenge Watch Prize in 2023 with the Millesime, the brand has been on a roll. The Millesime collection really shows that stylish Swiss-made watches don’t have to break the bank. The same goes for last year’s dressier Toccata Heritage Series. Now, the brand, led by Raymond Weil’s grandson […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The New Raymond Weil A.R.T. Collection to read the full article.

Beaucroft Introduces the Arc, an Elegant Everyday Watch with Impressive Specs Worn & Wound
Beaucroft Introduces Jun 9, 2026

Beaucroft Introduces the Arc, an Elegant Everyday Watch with Impressive Specs

The microbrand/independent scene in the UK is truly one of the most exciting in the world, with dozens of brands vying for attention and an always growing community of excited watch enthusiasts eager to experience just about everything on offer. This is very much the vibe every time we attend British Watchmakers’ Day and have a chance to experience it firsthand, and honestly it’s invigorating in a way to be placed in an enthusiast environment that feels familiar but also very specific to the UK.  One of the more interesting brands to emerge from this scene is Beaucroft, based in Cambridge. Beaucroft is not the flashiest or highest profile microbrand in the UK, but they’re on the rise, and they tend to make an impression when you actually see the watches in person. Garrett was such a fan of the Element when he saw one he decided to purchase it for himself. My moment of conversion came at British Watchmakers’ Day 2025, where I still regret not purchasing the Penfold Special Edition released that year. Their newest release has been dubbed the “Arc” and is an update of the Seeker model originally launched in 2023.  The Arc leans into the design language that was established with the Seeker and the brand has continued to refine in every model since, namely flowing, natural case lines paired with dynamic, colorful fumé dials. The dramatic curved mid-case is, according to the brand, inspired by the Bridge of Sighs over the River Cam, not far from Beaucroft’s head...

Timex Expands their Atelier Line with New Chronographs Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Atelier Wen Jun 8, 2026

Timex Expands their Atelier Line with New Chronographs

Lots of ink has been spilled in the short span of time since the launch of the Formex Aria on the topic of small brands (microbrands, if you must) going upmarket and playing at significantly higher price points than consumers are accustomed to. When a brand releases a watch that is multiple times the cost of the watches they are already associated with, it can cause a near panic in the watch enthusiast community. Lots of “HOW COULD THEY?” type comments appear on websites like ours, Instagram, and over beers at local meetups as collectors grapple with the idea that watch brands, which are also businesses that support the lives of real human beings, might attempt to make the most of the increased popularity our hobby has received in these past few years.  And that’s really what it is, right? The mainstreaming of watches has led brands like Formex, Christopher Ward, Atelier Wen, and others to feel confident in their expansion upmarket. Gone are the days when microbrands appeal solely to value conscious consumers – they have the eye of at least some traditional luxury buyers as well, and the ambitious watches they’ve developed and the prices being asked are a reflection of that. Timex, of course, is not a microbrand, but their Atelier line is a significant move into a higher pricing tier, and some of those same dynamics are in play, I think with the release of two new chronographs in the brand’s highest end line of watches.  You might remember the Atelier collect...

A Majestic Journey Through Clocks & Watches Made for Royalty: King Philip II of Spain and the Rise of a Dynasty that Ruled by the Clock Worn & Wound
Zenith Jun 8, 2026

A Majestic Journey Through Clocks & Watches Made for Royalty: King Philip II of Spain and the Rise of a Dynasty that Ruled by the Clock

From the imposing astronomical clocks of Tudor England to the exquisite pendant watches of Victorian Britain, timekeeping has long been a symbol of power, prestige, and technological marvel within Europe’s royal courts. This new series explores the fascinating evolution of clocks and watches crafted specifically for royalty, tracing how these intricate masterpieces reflected the tastes, ambitions, and innovations of monarchs. Through the lens of craftsmanship, artistry, and historical significance, we reveal how these royal timepieces marked the passage of dynasties and empires. King Philip II (1527–1598) inherited a globe-spanning empire from his father Charles V and, after 1580, also ruled Portugal. A devout champion of the Counter-Reformation, he centralised government, built the vast monastery-palace of San Lorenzo de El Escorial, and presided over Spain’s political zenith. His court prized scientific instruments and clocks as emblems of order and piety. Philip was part of the great Habsburg dynasty and the son of the Holy Roman emperor Charles V. From time to time, the emperor wrote Philip secret letters, impressing on him the high duties to which God had called him and warning him against trusting any of his advisers too much. Philip, a very dutiful son, took this advice to heart. During his reign the Spanish empire attained its greatest power, extent, and influence, though he failed to suppress the revolt of the Netherlands and lost the ‘Invincible Armada’...

New releases from Piaget, Hermès, Ming and more Time+Tide
Piaget Hermès Ming Jun 6, 2026

New releases from Piaget, Hermès, Ming and more

From high-profile collaborations to limited runs by design masters at very different price points, this week’s selection has plenty to unpack. We start with the technically impressive Altiplano Ultimate Automatic in a new colourway, followed by an equally remarkable Hermès Minute Repeater and a fully independent collaboration between the U.S. and Malaysia. There is much … Continued

The ABCs of Time - An Extensive Look at Modern Alternatives to the Lever Escapement Monochrome
Patek Philippe have lever escapement movements Jun 6, 2026

The ABCs of Time - An Extensive Look at Modern Alternatives to the Lever Escapement

There’s an old saying, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” That could easily apply to the lever escapement, a design so perfected that almost all mechanical watches rely on it today after its debut in 1754. It’s reliable, accurate and easily mass produced, and watchmakers like Rolex and Patek Philippe have lever escapement movements […]

Photo Report: A Truly Wild Tudor Collector Meet Up In Geneva Hodinkee
Tudor Collector Meet Up Jun 5, 2026

Photo Report: A Truly Wild Tudor Collector Meet Up In Geneva

Not all collector events are made equal. Back in April, during Watches and Wonders, I got an invite to swing by the Tudor HQ in Geneva for a special dinner. I assumed this would be like most brand dinners, including Tudor examples from the past, a glass of wine, a flying buffet, and a seated dinner. I could not have been more wrong. Rather than hors d'oeuvres and the looming possibility of a mid-dinner dance presentation, I walked into a room absolutely packed with vintage Tudors, along with many of the personalities who had either collected the watches firsthand or helped establish the knowledge surrounding the collection.  A group of singular 34mm Tudor Oyster, including a 1972 Cotton Bowl watch and matching hat. Honestly, after a long day at the Palexpo for the fair, the collection of watches and ephemera was entirely overwhelming. I did my best to shoot what I could as well as I could. In scenarios where a watch or two was lost to glare, flash, or both, I tried to add an additional photo to cover it. That said, I am 100% sure I didn't get to everything, and many of the watches you see below could be (or have been) the subject of entire stories.  A Tudor Submariner 9411.  So scroll on for a look at an insane array of Submariners, Rangers, Oysters, Chronographs, and more. Look closely for special dials, special bezels, military-issued examples, rare references, early models, notable school watches, and even a couple of ultra-rare watches with double-signed dials. Towa...

Ming and J.N. Shapiro Launch the 37.06 Lightning Worn & Wound
Massena Lab two brands added after Jun 5, 2026

Ming and J.N. Shapiro Launch the 37.06 Lightning

When the Alternative Horological Alliance was formed in 2024, I think many of us who care about this sort of thing immediately began speculating about possible collaborations between the brands involved. The teams at Ming, Fleming, and J.N. Shapiro (as well as Fears and Massena LAB, two brands added after the founding of the alliance) have clear affinity for one another. And while there might not be obvious ties between the watches they make, clearly there is a perspective on the watch landscape itself that’s shared among the group, and sometimes that’s what makes for the best partnerships.  Today, Ming and J.N. Shapiro have announced the launch of the 37.06 Lightning, which amounts to the first watch released collaboratively by members of the Alternative Horological Alliance (although Ming and J.N. Shapiro did work together on the AHA tantalum bracelet and the tantalum cases for the Ming Project 21). The star of the show is a dial that combines elements of what both brands excel at, and is notable as each individual dial has a bit of handcraft applied by the founders of both brands.  You would expect, I think, a J.N. Shapiro branded watch to feature hand guilloche of some type as that is really the brand’s calling card at this point, and the 37.06 Lightning is no exception. It distinguishes itself, though, in the guilloche pattern used, which is referred to by the brands as “lightning guilloche” and is being used for the first time by Shapiro on this watch. Sh...

First Look - The New Laps Studio Arche, A New Direction for the Parisian Brand Monochrome
Jun 4, 2026

First Look - The New Laps Studio Arche, A New Direction for the Parisian Brand

Over the past few years, Paris-based brand Laps has been offering watches built around graphic design and artistic expression. Collections such as Signature Art Print presented affordable quartz-powered references with fun dial designs inspired by architecture, photography, illustration and contemporary culture. The emphasis was always on visual storytelling rather than traditional watchmaking. Now the brand […]

Tudor Unveils The Colorful Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee” Fratello
Tudor Unveils Jun 3, 2026

Tudor Unveils The Colorful Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee”

Ask Tudor fans what they would like to see from the brand, and one of the top answers would be a smaller Black Bay Chrono. Well, that wish has been granted with the new Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee.” The watch introduces a new, smaller 39mm case that is also a good bit slimmer. […] Visit Tudor Unveils The Colorful Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee” to read the full article.

Tudor Introduces the “Bumblebee” Black Bay Chrono 39 in a New Smaller Case Worn & Wound
Tudor Introduces Jun 3, 2026

Tudor Introduces the “Bumblebee” Black Bay Chrono 39 in a New Smaller Case

Coming out of Watches & Wonders, there was plenty of commentary that Tudor had an iterative, kind of “off” year with a confusing pseudo-heritage piece in the Monarch being an unexpected standard bearer. We, frankly, really enjoyed all the new stuff, and thought some of the reactions were a bit out of left field, but regardless, I think their announcement today should get many of the skeptics claiming Tudor has lost a step to rethink their takes. The new Tudor “Bumblebee” Black Bay Chrono 39 is not merely a fun new summer color for their flagship chronograph, but an entirely new case size for that watch that speaks directly to enthusiasts who have been asking for a scaled down version.  Tudor is positioning the “Bumblebee” as a follow up to the Pink and Flamingo Blue chronographs that have appeared over the last few years. These brightly colored watches have been incredibly popular with collectors as alternatives to the standard black and white variants. Here we have a bright yellow dial with contrasting black subdials at 9 and 3 with a black tachymeter bezel in aluminum. The snowflake hands and hour markers are also outlined in black, and there’s a black minute track at the dial’s perimeter, all of which play up the “Bumblebee” theme.  But the real news here is that new case. It measures 39mm in diameter in stainless steel, and 13.1mm in height. That’s down from 14.1mm tall on the larger 41mm chronograph, which is a meaningful difference. The lug to...