Hodinkee
Business News: Finalists For The Upcoming 2025 GPHG Awards Have Been Announced
Final nominations for the "Academy Awards of watchmaking" have been revealed. We take a look at the finalists and give some quick takes on the selections.
Results for Swiss vs Japanese Watchmaking
5,032 articles · 36 videos found · page 91 of 169
Hodinkee
Teddy Baldassarre
13 Best French Watch Brands (2026)
Switzerland is the modern world’s center of watchmaking, with Germany a distant but respectable second in Europe and Japan having long staked out its own spot as the premier watch producer in Asia. Great Britain and the U.S.A., while no longer world leaders, both have a proud history of watchmaking and maintain a small but steadily growing cottage industry in the modern era. But France has its own respectable horological heritage, centered around the commune of Besançon (below), which borders Switzerland’s own heartland of watchmaking, the Vallée de Joux. France was, in fact, a home for many historically significant watchmakers and clockmakers, including Julien Cordray, Jean-Antoine Lépine, Ferdinand Berthoud, and Abraham-Louis Breguet (actually born in the Prussian principality that would become Neuchâtel, Switzerland, but renowned as a Paris-based watchmaker to French royalty). The latter three all plied their trade in workshops on Place Dauphine at the western tip of Paris' Île de la Cité in the Seine. Watchmaking was a thriving industry in France for a century, up until KIng Louis XIV’s (below) revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, which ushered in the religious persecution of Huguenot watchmakers, who fled to Switzerland to essentially establish that nation as a horological power. The French Revolution in the 18th Century, which halted the sales of luxury goods like watches in France, further eroded the country’s watch industry, and it has never ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Roger Smith Series 6 Wristwatch, Plus A Detailed Review of Smith's History With Calendars
In some ways, a simplified version of Smith's Series 4 instantaneous calendar with moonphase, the new watch is no less an impressive example of some of the finest British watchmaking this century.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Micromechanical Embroidery Dial of the Fil d’Or Louis Erard x Wire Art
There’s no stopping Manuel Emch’s relentless drive to democratise watchmaking by producing highly original content and métiers d’art dials, thanks to collaborations with designers, artists, studios and artisans for Louis Erard. The latest collaboration is a surprising marriage of traditional embroidery executed with a machine designed to bond microcircuits reprogrammed by Wire Art, Switzerland, to […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Berneron Unveils Details Of Second Collection: The Quantième Annuel
White hot independent Swiss brand follows up design-driven Mirage with complicated annual calendar watch in platinum (and a touch of steel).
Monochrome
First Look - The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical Chronograph now in Blue
Before becoming a Swiss brand and part of Swatch Group, Hamilton was an American watchmaker known for its military collections for both domestic and allied forces. In the 1970s, Hamilton continued this tradition with a chronograph for the British RAF (Royal Air Force) known as the Fab Four watch with a distinctive asymmetrical case. The latest […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Blancpain In-Store Event
Join us for a special celebration of Blancpain, the world’s oldest watchmaking brand and a true pioneer in haute horlogerie. This exclusive event will highlight the breadth of Blancpain’s artistry, from its iconic tool watches to its most refined expressions of elegance. Discover the legendary Fifty Fathoms, the origin
Fratello
Breitling Lands A Touchdown By Becoming The Official Timepiece Partner Of The NFL
If last year’s 32-strong collection of Chronomat B01 42s in NFL team colors was the rookie season, this year is the sophomore breakout for Breitling. The Swiss watchmaker has announced that it is becoming the popular sport league’s inaugural timepiece partner, along with the release of new watches to the NFL collection. What can we […] Visit Breitling Lands A Touchdown By Becoming The Official Timepiece Partner Of The NFL to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Arnold & Son DSTB 42 Mint Green & Ascot Blue
Scrolling through Arnold & Son’s portfolio reveals a neat mix of classical watchmaking codes and contemporary touches across all collections. One of the finest examples is the DSTB 42, which reveals its jumping seconds mechanism smack-bang on the dial. That’s also the reasoning behind its name, by the way, as DSTB refers to Dial Side […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Bracelet Types Explained
Rolex has made many lasting contributions to the world of watchmaking since its foundation in 1905, not the least of which has been an array of massively popular and widely emulated bracelet designs. Here we take a close look at every type of Rolex bracelet, what makes it special, and which Rolex watches, if any, are using them today. Rolex Oyster Bracelet Rolex’s iconic Oyster bracelet is the template from which many other three-link bracelet styles have been drawn. Its name comes from its association with the Oyster case - introduced by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf in 1926, and the most water-resistant watch case that had been made up to that point - and for which the original version of this bracelet served as an extension. Oyster bracelets are recognizable for their wide center links bordered by thinner end-links. Rolex patented the design in 1947 and fitted one on a watch in 1948. In the early versions, the links were riveted; these were phased out in favor of a “folding” style in 1967, which eventually gave way to the modern, solid-link style in 1975. Oyster bracelets come equipped with the accompanying Oysterlock clasp, a triple-deployant metal clasp with a safety-lock mechanism. Three-link bracelets like the Oyster and its various descendants are particularly popular on sports watches and dive watches, and this bracelet appears, as you’d expect on most of Rolex’s most popular “professional” models, including the Submariner, GMT-Master II, Explorer,...
Monochrome
Introducing - Vianney Halter and Massena LAB Launch the Old Soul Watch with Vintage Minerva Movement
The soul… This is what somehow defines independent watchmaking. Watches that have been designed and manufactured by individuals who have infused their soul into a timepiece that feels unique. On the topic of soul, design studio Massena LAB is presenting today its latest creation, a watch made with renowned and revered independent watchmaker Vianney Halter. […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Massena LAB x Vianney Halter 'Old Soul'
A vintage movement meets watchmaking's king of steampunk in a new collaboration.
Monochrome
Introducing - The new Armin Strom Tribute 1 Sandstein
Known for its complex watches with in-house movements using highly innovative solutions to improve accuracy, such as the spectacular resonance concept and the Gravity Equal Force, indie watchmaking brand Armin Strom decided in 2021 that it was time to offer something more focused, simpler, more elegant and yet distinctively its own. The result was the […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Old Soul By Vianney Halter And Massena Lab
Over the past few years, we have seen Massena Lab team up with several interesting brands. For this new creation, William Massena’s collaboration laboratory joined forces with Vianney Halter to produce the Old Soul. This timepiece blends the science fiction of steampunk with watchmaking references from the early 1900s. Additionally, it houses a vintage Minerva […] Visit Introducing: The Old Soul By Vianney Halter And Massena Lab to read the full article.
Time+Tide
This Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite in steel is now available worldwide
Once a Japanese market exclusive, this stainless steel Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite is now available worldwide.The post This Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite in steel is now available worldwide appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix Introduces the AIKONIC, a New Sporty Take on the Popular AIKON Models
Since its inception in 2016, the AIKON line has been Swiss watchmaker Maurice Lacroix’s bestselling collection. Nine years later, the brand is ready to kick it up a notch. The new aptly-named AIKONIC series packs updated mechanics and new materials into an upgraded case design with pops of color, promising innovation in the urban watch space while maintaining the original watch’s flavor. Does it land? Let’s take a look. The first new aspect of note for the AIKONIC collection is the 43mm case; while it retains the familiar six double-wide “arms” around the bezel, a tactile grip cover is added to the crown. Both the bezel and the crown cover are composed of matt ceramic, which promises scratch-free usage for years to come. And while the case remains steel, it features both brushed and polished surfaces for visual and tactile complexity. The carbon dial, too, is all-new on the AIKONIC. With carbon fiber strands running north to south in one direction as opposed to interwoven, each dial is slightly distinct from the next. Maurice Lacroix collaborated with a Swiss partner to create the dials, resulting in a construction that is fresh both structurally and aesthetically. The noth-south carbon pattern indeed gives each dial a vertical wave pattern, diversifying the design from both a textural and visual standpoint. Atop the dial sits silver text details, rhodium indices and second hand, and rhodium-facetted hour and minute hands. A sapphire crystal with anti-reflect...
Monochrome
First Look - The Ming 57.04 Iris, A Destro Monopusher Chronograph Launching the Fifth-Generation Design
Independent watchmaking thrives on daring ideas, and Ming is one of the few modern brands that embody this spirit vividly. Since its debut in 2017, the collective led by designer and photographer Ming Thein has built an impressive catalogue of over 75 references, each exploring a distinct facet of horology. The early 17-series brought the […]
SJX Watches
Interview: Breguet CEO Gregory Kissling on the Past and Future
Appointed to the top job at Breguet just under a year ago, Gregory Kissling trained as a movement constructor and spent most of his career leading Omega’s product development. A native of the Vallee de Joux, Mr Kissling is now in charge of one of the most revered names in watchmaking, which this year celebrates its 250th year. Aided by his background in product and long tenure at Swatch Group, the parent of Breguet, Mr Kissling is off to a running start. He has already made his mark with anniversary editions like the Classic Souscription, a simple but smart creation I rate highly, and holds ambitions to elevate the brand to where it should be. He was recently in Singapore to open Breguet’s new boutique in Ion Orchard, a mall on the city’s premier shopping street, and I got my first face-to-face with him since he assumed the role. We discussed his plans for the brand founded by Abraham-Louis Breguet, ranging from an increased emphasis on artisanal craft, to Breguet design, and even one-off or custom watches. The interview was edited for length and clarity. SJX: You have one of the most interesting and exciting jobs in the Swiss watch industry; you have taken over one of its greatest brands. Gregory Kissling (GK): It is a fantastic brand and every day I learn something new [about its history]. The heritage and legacy are immense. And also the fact that Breguet has a true manufacture – we produce everything in house but also thanks to the sister company of Swatch Grou...
SJX Watches
Prix Gaïa 2025 Awarded to Dr Helmut Crott for Scholarship
Awarded annually by the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH), one of Switzerland’s leading timekeeping museums, the Prix Gaïa recognises individuals who have contributed to watchmaking in three categories. This year’s winner in the “History [and] Research” category is Dr Helmut Crott. Best known for having founded the eponymous auction house, Dr Crott is also an author, scholar, and former owner of Urban Jürgensen, amongst other roles. In 2021 he authored Le Cadran, an in-depth study of dials and dial making techniques of 20th century wristwatches. Le Cadran by Dr Helmut Crott Past winners of the Prix Gaïa include Reinhard Meis, Jonathan Betts, Pierre-Yves Donzé, Kathleen Pritschard, and Ludwig Oechslin, all scholars and authors who have contributed substantively to the body of knowledge in the field. Alongside Dr Crott, this year’s winners are Jean-Jacques Paolini for “Entrepreneurship”, and Roger W. Smith for “Craftsmanship [and] Creation”. As the successor to Georges Daniels’ brand of English watchmaking, Mr Smith now produces watches under his own name, with his achievements and timepieces well known. Jean-Jacques Paolini Mr Paolini, on the other hand, is less known outside the industry, but he is arguably most responsible for building the enterprise that’s the largest employer in La Chaux-de-Fonds. In 1980, Mr Paolini took over his family’s case and bracelet manufacturing business, developing its operations sufficiently that it was acq...
Monochrome
First Look - The new Holthinrichs Signature Ornament LAB Series 1.24
Headquartered in the historical centre of Delft, The Netherlands, Holthinrichs Watches, named after its founder Michiel Holthinrichs, is one of the rising stars of the indie watchmaking scene. The brand has a truly unique approach to design and manufacturing, combining advanced metal printing techniques (yes, 3D printed cases are THE signature feature there) with high-end […]
Time+Tide
Franck Muller joins forces with #FR2 for another cheeky collab
Franck Muller and Japanese streetwear brand #FR2 add some summer colour to their second fun-filled collaboration.The post Franck Muller joins forces with #FR2 for another cheeky collab appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: NORQAIN Wild ONE Skeleton Stan the Man Limited Edition
The NORQAIN Wild ONE Skeleton Stan the Man Limited Edition is a bold tribute to tennis legend Stan Wawrinka, blending high-performance watchmaking with deeply personal design cues.
Hodinkee
Photo Report: Watch Week Aspen Returns For Its Second Year
The second annual Watch Week Aspen brought 16 brands and over 200 attendees together to share in the passion for watchmaking amidst the beautiful backdrop of Aspen, Colorado.
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Introduces the Gravée Main, with a Fully Engraved Case
Of all the artisanal specialities in watchmaking, case engraving has to be among the most obscure and unheralded. I think there are a few reasons for this. One, the dial is where the action is on most watches, and applying a time consuming artistic craft on the case might be seen by some watchmakers as a waste of valuable time. Another factor is that to a large extent, we’ve all been trained to appreciate a particular type of case finishing. We see crisp transitions between brushed and polished surfaces, and that registers as being of a certain level of quality that we expect in a luxury watch. If those elements aren’t there, even if they’re substituted by something that might be visually striking, our reptile brains feel like there’s something missing. The latest in Louis Erard’s ongoing Métiers d’Art series, however, is a good opportunity to appreciate complex case engraving in a new way. The whole idea behind how Louis Erard approaches Métiers d’Art, and to a certain extent the brand’s focus more generally, is to make craft accessible. The new Gravée Main is perhaps their most ambitious attempt in this area to date. Virtually every steel surface (the case, bezel, lugs, crown, and buckle) is hand engraved. According to the brand, each watch takes upwards of 50 hours to engrave by hand, and only 99 will be made. Engraving is one of those things that really comes alive when you look at it closely and imagine that painstaking work that went into creat...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Norqain Wild One “Stan the Man” Limited Edition
Even though a relatively young brand, Norqain has made a name for itself in the field of sports watches, as well as a strong commitment to Swiss production. Norqain’s CEO Ben Küffer has been able to count on some great friends since he started his brand in 2018, one of them being industry veteran Jean-Claude […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The Paulin Mara, The First Dive Watch by the Glasgow-Based Brand
Paulin Watches, founded in 2013 by three sisters and now part of anOrdain, has built its reputation on a bold, design-driven approach to watchmaking, characterised by distinctive typography and an original use of form and colour. With the Mara, the Glasgow-based brand takes a step into the world of professional watches, reimagining the diver through […]
Monochrome
News - Phillips Watch’s Next Auction Has Everything but Watches, and Will Benefit a Good Cause
On Saturday, 6 September 2025, Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo will host a live charity auction at Geneva Watch Days to benefit the Pierre Amstutz Fund, a non-profit organisation dedicated to supporting apprentices at the Geneva School of Watchmaking. Now in its third consecutive year, the charity auction has become a fixture of […]
Monochrome
Introducing - Indie Brand Guebly Updates Its Initial Concept with the new CH1 Rétrograde
Guebly isn’t an old brand. On the contrary, it’s a recently created independent watchmaking company that released its very first watch, the Prologue or Chapter 1, only a year ago. Guebly is the brainchild of Adnane Kerd, a collector who turned watch entrepreneur. A sober luxury sports watch that showed great attention to detail and […]
Teddy Baldassarre
"Are Tissot Watches Good?"
Tissot is one of the world's largest Swiss watchmakers and can look back on a rich history upon which it is still building today. In the modern era, Tissot is widely known for its large and diverse portfolio of watches, which ranges from dressy to sporty to high-tech, for its high-profile sports timing presence, and for its incredible value for the money. But there is a lot more that you may not know about Tissot and its many contributions to watchmaking history. Here, we delve into the highlights and tackle the easily answerable question of "are Tissot watches good?". (And if you're interested in learning more about particular Tissot Watches that are available now, check out our companion article on the Best Tissot Watches for Men.) Tissot’s Watchmaking Milestones Began in 1853 Tissot is one of the oldest watch manufacturers in the world, tracing its history back to 1853. Its founders were the father-son watchmaking team of Charles-Félicien and Charles-Émile Tissot, who turned their home in the Swiss Jura town of Le Locle, where the company remains headquartered today, into a small factory. By 1858, the family firm had gained a major foothold in Tsarist Russia, which became the largest market for the savonette pocket watches that were its specialty at the time. (At one point, Charles-Émile’s son, Charles Tissot, the third generation of the Tissot family to join the business, moved to Moscow to open an office there.) Tissot is recognized as the producer of the first...
Hodinkee
One To Watch: Sohaib Maghnam, A 30-Year-Old Automotive Designer And CEO Of Two Watch Brands With Three 2025 GPHG Entries
Qatar-based Beda'a is one of the few non-Swiss brands with a GPHG Entry this year, and it has two, with Maghnam's eponymous brand rounding out the third.