Introducing: The Omega Constellation 41mm Models
The watch with claws in a bigger and bolder case.
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The watch with claws in a bigger and bolder case.
Revolution
A milestone year for Grand Seiko brings about reflection and renewal for their 60th Anniversary.
Time+Tide
96. That’s how old I’ll be when the warranty on one of these watches runs out. This year is all about the Luminor in the 2020 Panerai collection, with a number of exciting new references that have been released so far. We focus on two highlights within the collection, the Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01117 and … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Highlights of the 2020 Panerai collection, including the watch with a warranty that will probably out-live you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Montblanc presents the new version of its colourful and quite accessible world timer.
SJX Watches
A star of contemporary watchmaking as a result of its consistent innovation in unusual, lightweight materials, Richard Mille watches have a unique style that is instantly recognisable. A bestseller that’s arguably the brand’s signature watch, the RM 11 is large, technical-looking, and now in its fifth generation. The RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT is the latest to join the RM 11 line-up, which was first launched over a decade now but regularly face-lifted. Limited to 140 pieces and powered by the same RMAC3 calibre found in its predecessors, the RM 11-05 continues Richard Mille’s material-centric design with a case in grey cermet. Initial thoughts Richard Mille watches are unfailing bold, and often extravagant; the RM 11-05 sticks to that formula and is immediately identifiable. It is a modest, incremental change over earlier RM 11 variants, so it doesn’t offer substantial novelty. But for a fan of the brand and its trademark style, it is very much the traditional Richard Mille look and feel. Blending metal and ceramic The RM 11-05 is novel in its case material – surprising since the brand seems to have used every conceivable modern material – which is grey cermet case, a first for Richard Mille. A contraction of ceramic and metal, cermet is a composite of ceramic and metal alloy, resulting in a material that combines the properties of the two. Cermet is more commonly employed in ballistic protection and aerospace components. Although the m...
Time+Tide
It’s Monday in July in 2020, folks, and that means two certainties for yours truly – the first of five full weeks stuck in lockdown, and a chance to focus on another independent watchmaker. That’s right, it’s MICRO MONDAYS, and today we’re taking a closer look at a brand that is already well known in … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Spinnaker watches might just be your next sub-$1000 throwdown appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
A platinum case and a stone dial set a new auction record for automatic Daytonas.
Time+Tide
This year, Daniel Craig will star as James Bond for the final time in the upcoming No Time To Die film, a blockbuster that is sure to be action packed and offer a much needed reprieve from the dystopian movie that is our current reality. On his wrist for this film will be a watch … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition is more grit than glamour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar Chronograph is arguably the most captivating piece in the new Master Control series. The case is sharper than before in finishing, with more straight edges as opposed to rounded sides. Accompanied with the easily patinated strap, there is a certain sportiness to the otherwise classical watch. While the triple calendar may be seen as a budget calendar, the overall merit to the watch is its versatility.
Quill & Pad
The drama of Breguet's La Tradition lay – and continues to lie – in its stylistically vintage appearance coupled with a movement finished using historical techniques and the extreme visibility of the mechanical components from the dial side. Here Elizabeth Doerr looks at two new models for 2020 that are bound to make you a fan of the style.
Time+Tide
Much like a car manufacturer does when it designs a brand new engine, TAG Heuer are making sure that their flagship self-winding chronograph movement, the Calibre Heuer 02, finds its way into every chrono they’ve released this year. And just days after letting us know that their three in-demand limited edition chronographs equipped with the … ContinuedThe post The boldly modern new TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport is here to save those tiring of heritage remakes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The next generation of the ever popular Omega Constellation is now launched. Here is the Press Release with our commentary in italics. The Constellation collection has been available in 39 and 36 mm in both mechanical and quartz movements. In this release, the collection gets updated with a 41mm case size, and mechanical movements. TheRead More
SJX Watches
Helmed by Pascal Raffy, Bovet is a small and independent brand that excels in timepieces that are ornate, original and eccentric – and often highly complicated. The modern-day philosophy of the brand echoes the brand’s origins in the 19th century when it was a leading purveyor of pocket watches to the Chinese market. This year, Bovet furthers its distinctive expression of watchmaking with the Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two. Features an imposing but transparent sapphire case with a sloped, “writing desk” profile, the watch is equipped with a host of complications, from a flying tourbillon to a three-dimensional moon phase. And despite the name, Brainstorm Chapter Two is not just a sequel to the Brainstorm Chapter One, but is more like a newly-conceived watch. Initial thoughts Immediately eye-catching, the sapphire case has a very unconventional inclined shape. Introduced in 2016, the form takes after the traditional sloped-top writing desk and is now a signature Bovet design. While transparent sapphire cases are not new – they are in fact commonplace today with watches with several launched this year, including the Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire and the Chanel J12 X-Ray – the Bovet case is unusual in form. It is not entirely sapphire, however, and instead made up of a titanium frame of the case back and lugs, with the sapphire case middle and front mounted on the frame. The titanium case back and its pins that secure the sapphire case middle Though fashi...
SJX Watches
Having been pummelled by the COVID-19 pandemic and the implosion of Baselworld, the watch fair’s owner MCH Group has just announced a CHF104.5m rescue led by the canton of Basel and James Murdoch. But the crown jewel is not the Baselworld watch and jewellery fair, but Art Basel, which is undoubtedly the prize Mr Murdoch is after. As part of the rescue, the canton of Basel will convert its CHF30m loan to MCH into equity, with the balance being made up of a rights issue priced at a 25% discount to the 30-day average for MCH shares, which hit a peak of CHF80 in 2017 and traded around CHF17 in recent weeks. Through his family investment office Lupa Systems, Mr Murdoch will underwrite the rights issue, subscribing to all rights not taken up by other shareholders. At the same time, the canton of Basel and its regional bank have extended the repayment period for outstanding loans to MCH, while a bond offering is planned in the near future. Beyond shoring up the finances of MCH, the exercise will leaving Mr Murdoch with 30-44% of MCH Group, along with three board seats. Restrictions on shareholder voting rights will also be abolished, removing the outsized voting power of the cantons of Basel and Zurich, once the dominant influences in MCH. A long-term investment Mr Murdoch is the younger son of Rupert Murdoch, perhaps the most powerful figure in the broadcast and news business in the Western world. Recent newspaper reports have said the younger Murdoch was negotiating with MC...
Time+Tide
No fauxtina, no sub 40mm case and seemingly hewn out of a three ton block of arctic granite … I am blown away by how something so big can be so refreshing. A massive chunk of sandblasted blue freshness. You can tell by my name that I might have a Nordic bias here – but … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Linde Werdelin release ‘3 Timer’ GMT in sandblasted steel with stunning blue gradient dial, limited to just 55 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Complicated, classy, and offering surprising bang for the buck.
SJX Watches
One of the longest-lived models in the Omega line up, the Constellation with its characteristic “claw” bezel made its debut in 1982 as the Constellation Manhattan. Still looking like a 1980s design many years after that, the collection was face-lifted this year and given a smart new look that retained all of the key elements but with tighter, more modern lines. Now Omega has just taken the covers off the flagship men’s model, the Constellation Gents’ 41 mm that features an unusual combination of a metal case, polished ceramic bezel, and an integrated strap or bracelet. Initial thoughts Offered in a variety of striking dial and bezels combinations – with the red gold and blue ceramic being the most striking – the latest Constellation is the most noteworthy of any recent model. Despite the number of iterations, each model has a cohesive look with all the elements complementing each other. My favourite is undoubtedly the steel version with a irregularly textured dial thats adds visual appeal and intricacy compared to its counterparts with simpler dial finishes. Regardless of iteration, the new Constellation also has a slightly sporty look that is appealing, unlike earlier attempts at a sporty Constellations – like the chunky Constellation Double Eagle – that fell flat. Overall its a good-looking but affordable luxury-sports watch in steel And it does look much better in 18k gold, but then it costs three times as much. Shiny ceramic What makes them special a...
Hodinkee
Clean, round chronographs with an in-house movement and a contemporary vibe.
Quill & Pad
Montblanc has kept the Minerva spirit alive, not only through the chiefly handmade and -decorated movements still manufactured in Minerva’s historical factory in Villeret, but also in these watches' wonderfully nostalgic designs. Martin Green highlights five new Montblanc chronographs for 2020 that blend tradition with good modern design in the best way.
Time+Tide
Adapt or die. You either get with these troubled times, or consign yourself to the pages of history. For watchmakers and retailers alike, or really anyone in the world of horology, this sentiment has never been more real or more confronting. COVID-19 poses a threat to the luxury watch industry that may dwarf even the … ContinuedThe post NEWS: Hublot launch an ecommerce site with a big bang, huge number of references available for purchase now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Earlier this week, Kanye West announced that he was going to run for President of the United States. That’s right, the 43-year-old rapper and streetwear designer married to Kim Kardashian says he will run in this year’s election that is set to play out in November. While it’s certainly a late announcement, and it isn’t … ContinuedThe post Kanye West is running for US President, here are 5 of his watches you might spot on the campaign trail appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Wei Koh and Ross Povey chat with Thomas Perazzi, head of Phillips Watches in Asia on their picks from the upcoming Hong Kong Watch Auction: X.
SJX Watches
Following up the more complex Toric Tourbillon Slate, Parmigiani is launching its first ever luxury-sports watch, the Tonda GT. Founded in 1996 by highly-regarded independent watchmaker Michel Parmigiani, the brand specialises in complicated watches like the tubular, Bugatti-inspired Type 390. A departure from the brand’s usual far in both form and price, the Tonda GT line comprises a time-and-date base model, the Tonda GT, as well as the star of the show: the Tondagraph GT chronograph with annual calendar. Tondagraph GT Both are sports watches, with screw-down crowns and water resistance of 100 m. But they takes they cues from past Parmigiani designs, but translated into a more angular, modern shape. The knurled bezel, for instance, takes inspiration from the Toric, the brand’s very first wristwatch. And the dials are decorated with traditional clous triangulaire guilloché. Initial thoughts The new watches add a more casual, sporty offering to the Tonda collection. With distinct designs that don’t ride on the styling of Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe, Parmigiani is offering a unique and well-priced line that’s suited to both the great outdoors and more formal occasions. Importantly, the Tonda GT is attractively priced, given the high quality of execution and in-house movements. Parmigiani makes almost all components in-house or at its sister companies, and if its current watches are anything to go by, the fit and finish on the Tonda GT will be as good a...
SJX Watches
Founded only a decade ago, Ressence has already left an indelible impression on watchmaking. Lauded for a design philosophy that is centred on legibility, wearability and intuitive function, the brand’s unusual perspective is thanks to its founder Benoît Mintiens, an industrial designer by profession. To mark its 10th year, Ressence has debuted the Type 1 Slim X, the first of four watches in the commemorative Collection X – “X” being a Roman “10”. Limited to 40 watches, the new watch is essentially identical to the standard Type 1 Slim, but face-lifted with an intriguing dial in a single shade of olive green but finished with contrasting surfaces to achieve a two-tone effect. The remaining Collection X watches will be dressed in a similar shade of green. Initial thoughts I have long been fascinated by Ressence and its watches. The first time I laid eyes on a Ressence, I assumed that it was just an electronic watch with a high-pixel density display; the dial on it was truly flat. When I found out what it was – the effect was due to the oil-filled time display chamber – surprise was an understatement. They are in a class of their own in terms of design, and are, in fact, great examples of “postmodern” mechanical watchmaking. The dark olive dial on the anniversary Type 1 Slim is a first for the brand. The colour is attractive but not as widely used as I would like, with the exception of military-style timepieces, which this is definitely not. To see i...
Deployant
Ressence celebrates 10 years with the newType 1 Slim X - olive green dial with 2 sides - 1 side in matte and the other brushed with a circular grain.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: When people talk about the Grand Seiko Snowflake as being one watch, they are in fact forgoing the many and varied shades of snow that Grand Seiko has showered us with since the OG became almost a pillar in itself. Here, we choose a Snowflake for every season, to show the nuance and … ContinuedThe post Which Grand Seiko Snowflake is right for you? Four models that show the stunning dial’s diversity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Breguet is one of the grandest names in watchmaking, and mostly makes watches that are rooted in its history. The aptly named Tradition exudes, well, tradition. Modelled on the souscription pocket watch created by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1796, the wide-ranging collection has been gently modernised in recent years. The newly-announced Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 continues that trend, with a dark blue guilloché dial against a grey movement. Initial thoughts This version of the Tradition 7097 is possibly my favourite yet, mostly because of the off-centre dial in blue. Engine-turned by hand, the blue dial is striking against the monochromatic movement. And it looks especially appealing when compared against the earlier versions that have plainer and more conventional silvered dials, which offer less contrast against the movement. But as with all other Tradition watches, there’s a nit to pick here: the serial number plaque on the dial makes it look a bit cluttered, especially since the dial is small to begin with. One solution would be to put the serial numbers beside the Breguet logo, as done on the female Tradition Dame 7038. And while I like the retrograde seconds, its position feels awkward as it cuts into the sub-dial. Though intersecting indicators are a feature in some historical Breguet pocket watches, the face of the Tradition is a bit too small to accommodate it comfortably. The white gold case is in classic Breguet style a delicately-fluted ...
Revolution
Michael Young, founder of UNDONE watches a little about his background in and outside of the watch industry, what made him establish UNDONE Watches and why UNDONE Watches has slowly become the talk of the collecting community.
Time+Tide
This week on Micro Mondays, we are looking at a brand that is a little older than most of the watch manufacturers we feature in this column - Ollech & Wajs. And what a story the company has … This might be one of the best-kept secrets in the watch industry, with the Zurich-based company … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Ollech & Wajs are the tool watch company you should check out if utilitarian is your thing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Bovet Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two: the story continues. Indications include hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve, moon phase, and a world time/second time zone display. All of which is powered by an entirely new double-sided flying tourbillon movement with totally new architecture. Warning: it may blow your mind!
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