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Time+Tide
The Grand Seiko SBGH347 not only debuts an icy blue dial with a brand new texture, but also the first-ever 37mm Ever-Brilliant Steel case.The post The mid-sized Grand Seiko SBGH347 debuts a new dial texture inspired by a frozen waterfall appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The fall auction season kicks off with online auctions, before the primary live sales that take place in November. Phillips in Geneva just opened its online auction with a 70-lot offering of the familiar and mainstream (think Aquanaut, Royal Oak, and Nautilus), but also the esoteric and independent, ranging from an Alain Silberstein perpetual calendar made by Svend Andersen to a Seiko Izul “bullhead” chronograph. We round up a few highlights from the sale, which runs from September 5-12, 2024, with the catalogue and bidding available online. Lot 9 – Alain Silberstein Marine Perpetual Calendar by Svend Andersen Part of Alain Silberstein’s Marine series of dive watches, the Marine Perpetual is a COSC-certified perpetual calendar in a case rated to 200 m. It’s equipped with a clever, double-sided perpetual calendar movement developed by Svend Andersen. Built on an ETA 2892, the perpetual calendar has a minimalist display with only the date on the dial that’s decorated in Silberstein’s trademark style with geometric shapes, primary colours, along with a starfish, crescent, and sun. On the reverse is the months and leap year in a single register that is mounted on the periphery of the movement, allowing the rotor to travel below the indicator. The Marine Perpetual was a limited edition of 100 watches, though it is likely fewer were made, since they are rarely encountered. It was one of several collaborations that Alain Silberstein in the 1990s with prominent in...
Monochrome
Coinciding with the arrival of Guido Terreni as CEO of the brand, high-end Swiss watchmaker Parmigiani Fleurier has undergone a complete restructuring for the past years. This move was initiated by the launch of a significant collection, the Tonda PF, which not only modernized the vision we had of PF but also pushed it into […]
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we look at five gentlemen’s GMT watches that stand out because of their distinguished presence. These aren’t your typical Rolex GMT-Master-influenced timepieces. No, this is a list of the more classical-looking GMTs, multi-time-zone/traveler’s watches that fly a little more under the radar. So don’t expect any colorful rotating bezels […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Gentlemen’s GMT Watches - From Grand Seiko, Parmigiani Fleurier, Lorca, And More to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard continues their ongoing series of collaborations with important independent watchmakers via their Le Regulateur collection with a new group of limited editions made in collaboration with Stefan Kudoke. Kudoke is a German watchmaker who has gained a great deal of acclaim in recent years for his beautifully simple timepieces that tend to feature simple dials with subtle textures and elaborately engraved movements. The Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2 references are seen by many connoisseurs as modern classics, and like all of Stefan’s watches they have immediately recognizable motifs that make them distinctly “Kudoke.” These Louis Erard limited editions borrow just the right amount of these design elements to make them easily identifiable as being made in partnership with Kudoke, but probably only to the most serious watch nerds. Compared to previous limited editions with watchmakers like Konstantin Chaykin and Alain Silberstein, the Kudoke watches feel considerably more under the radar and less flashy, which is fitting given the general aesthetic Kudoke is known for. The Le Regulateur concept feels like a natural for a collaboration with Kudoke because so much of his work is based in a certain kind of precision that is part and parcel with traditional German watchmaking. For example, Kudoke’s watches tend to feature meticulously finished nameplates, chapter rings, which are represented on these watches in the dual signatures on each dial, as well as the railway t...
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Time+Tide
The Chronomat NFL Collection is Breitling's biggest launch of the year, with 104-piece limited editions made for each of the 32 teams.The post Breitling debuts Chronomat NFL Collection – 32 teams, 32 references, limited to 104 pieces each appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Well liked for its affordability and integrated-bracelet style, the Tissot PRX is now available in a novel material for the first time. The Tissot PRX 40 Powermatic Forged Carbon has a lightweight case of carbon composite matched with an integrated rubber strap, and it is equipped with a no-frills automatic movement. Initial thoughts From an LCD digital to a Grendizer edition, the iterations of the PRX are endless, but the model is still appealing with its simple style and inexpensive price tag. Like its peers, the PRX Forged Carbon model is a functional watch with a monochromatic aesthetic matches the design perfectly. But it’s lighter than the steel versions of the model, and arguably more wearable. That said, carbon composite is not as durable as metal alloy, so this might not have the same easy robustness as the steel version. At US$995, this does cost more than the base model PRX, but it is one of the most affordable Swiss-made watches with a carbon composite case and automatic movement. No-frills fun The new PRX retains the style and dimensions of its steel counterpart. The case is 40 mm in diameter and a one-piece construction of carbon composite with a press-fit steel back. It’s slight thicker than the steel model because the steel case back connects to an inner case of steel that sits within the carbon composite outer case. The composite used for the case has a marbled finish that is typical of the material. Made up of white, grey, and black, the case is match...
SJX Watches
After having expanded the line-up of its bestselling, vintage-inspired Carrera “Glassbox”, TAG Heuer now turns to something modern, the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport. Though it shares the Carrera moniker and TH20 movement, the new Extreme Sport chronograph is nothing like is retro counterpart. Available in titanium or 18k rose gold, the Carrera Extreme Sport is a big, bold chronograph with a skeletonised dial and integrated rubber strap. And at the top of the new collection is the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport, which is the most modern take on TAG Heuer’s affordable double complication of chronograph plus flying tourbillon. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer’s offerings are now mostly either vintage-inspired and hyper-modern. The Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport definitely falls into the latter category. The open-worked dial is surprisingly intricate, with the X-shaped latticework finished with a combination of colour-treated frosted recesses and straight graining. With a skeletonised dial and chunky case, the Chronograph Extreme Sport feels similar to other watches in this segment, though the case is distinctive as the Carrera design. For anyone who feels TAG Heuer’s vintage-inspired watches are too traditional, this has the same in-house movement but presented in contemporary package. Like most watches of this style, the Chronograph Extreme Sport has an integrated rubber strap for a seamless clean profile, but never really fits as well as a convent...
Fratello
TAG Heuer isn’t shying away from ultra-modern styling lately. Or, I should say, the brand offers a choice of modern and classic watches, even within the racing-themed Carrera line. For those who tend to prefer vintage looks, there is the Carrera Glassbox. If, however, you are more into futuristic designs, we have something for you […] Visit Hot Take: Brand-New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport References to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko’s debuted its first-ever Spring Drive movement in 2004 with the cal. 9R65. Now the brand is marking 20 years of the 9R Spring Drive movement family with the Elegance Collection SBGY035 and SBGA499, both sporting striking red dials inspired by the sunlit autumn scenery around Mount Hotaka. Part of the Thin Dress Series, the SBGY035 is flat and elegant, with a domed, textured dial. On the other hand, SBGA499 employs the classic Grand Seiko case and bracelet, matched with a sunburst-brushed dial in red that has the signature Spring Drive power reserve indicator at eight o’clock. The SBGA499 Initial thoughts I am a Grand Seiko fanboy. The brand offers a strong value proposition across its catalogue. Furthermore, Spring Drive is synonymous with Grand Seiko. The hybrid approach of Spring Drive means it boasts quartz-level accuracy despite being having an entirely mechanical mainspring and gear train. The new pair are perfect representations of Grand Seiko’s approach to horology, both good and bad. The two watches are striking, especially since red isn’t a colour often employed by Grand Seiko. The SBGY035 in particular stands out since the textured red dial is uncommon for Grand Seiko and dress watches in general. The SBGY035 That said, Grand Seiko’s limited editions feel too frequent, especially since many are only colour variations of each other. This is a regular criticism of Grand Seiko, but it hasn’t dampened sales of such limited editions, which pro...
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Time+Tide
Gregory Kissling is reportedly taking the job of CEO at Breguet after as successful run as the VP of Product at Omega.The post Gregory Kissling becomes the new CEO of Breguet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
It’s no secret that I am a fan of both Unimatic and GMT watches. And in all fairness, the Italian brand has released some amazing GMTs that I would have loved to add to my collection. But there is a right time for everything, and the timing just might be right with the release of […] Visit Hands-On With The Brand-New Unimatic Modello Quattro U4-GMT to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The upward trajectory of Christopher Ward in the eyes of enthusiasts and collectors has been well documented over the last few years. The Bel Canto, of course, completely changed the game for the brand, and was an announcement to the broader watchmaking community of something ardent supporters have known for quite some time: that the team at Christopher Ward is capable of real outside-the-box thinking, and has an ambition to tweak expectations far beyond that of most brands in their price range. They have periodically introduced watches since that in one way or another qualify as what you might call “statement pieces,” or watches that seem to exist for the purpose of shifting the community’s expectations around the brand. The Twelve X, introduced earlier this year, is a perfect example, and I’d also point you toward a personal favorite of mine, the C1 Moonphase, which works as an art piece the same was some of the watches created by my favorite high end independents. Their latest offering, at least on the surface, is perhaps not as paradigm shifting as any of the watches mentioned previously, but it’s still generating an awful lot of chatter online for a series of dramatic improvements to just about every feature of a core offering from Christopher Ward: the dive watch. The Trident collection, Christopher Ward’s dive watch range, is now in its 15th year, and the new C60 Trident Lumière is described by the brand as the pinnacle of the series to date. There ar...
Fratello
Tool watches are not only popular but also often uncomplicated and dull from a design point of view. How refreshing it is to see and wear the Frog300 from Oceanix (or OX for short). It has a non-conventional case shape, modern-styled bold hands and indexes, and refreshing colors. Furthermore, it contains an innovative safety feature, […] Visit Hands-On With The OX Frog300 Shark Skin And Depth Rainbow to read the full article.
Fratello
The French word millésime means “vintage” and is most often linked to great wines and champagnes. The new HYT T1 Millésime series offers a vintage-inspired dial matching the contemporary look of HYT’s most understated creation. And just like a millésime wine, the new trio of watches refers to a limited period. The HYT T1 Millésime […] Visit It’s An Exquisite Millésime Monday Morning With The New HYT T1 Millésime Series to read the full article.
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SJX Watches
Ahead of this month’s Homo Faber Biennial exhibition in Venice, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Monet,” a collection of three watches, limited to 10 pieces each, adorned with miniature enamel reproductions of Claude Monet’s iconic Venice series of paintings. Each enamel painting is composed of 14 layers of enamel, including seven layers of translucent fondant glaze, each requiring its own firing at up to 800 degrees celsius. Initial thoughts Painted enamel case backs are nothing new for the Reverso, a watch that, given its hinged case, is uniquely suited to such decoration. That said, they are a joy to behold due to the skill of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s in-house enamel artists. In this case, I also happen to personally appreciate the chosen subject matter; I find Monet’s Venice series deeply moving. While the case backs are the star attraction, the dials are decorated with hand guilloche, with a different pattern and colour for each piece. The ‘Grand Canal,’ for example, is paired with a guilloche pattern inspired by the ripples of the canal as depicted by Monet, and finished in translucent green enamel. ‘The Doges’ Palace’ features a modified basket weave pattern, while the ‘San Giorgio Maggiore’ features a herringbone pattern. Priced at €100,000, the Reverso Tribute Monet for collectors who value the rarity of this type of hand craftsmanship and artisanship. Like other forms of art, there’s an element of patronage that goes...
Quill & Pad
For a brand to have even two watches shortlisted in the annual Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) is a rare achievement. But in the 2024 GPHG, Parmigiani Fleurier has not two, not three, not four, not five but an incredible six difference watches shortlisted over six different categories: Men’s, Time Only, Ladies, Sports, Chronograph, and Calendar and Astronomy.
Monochrome
Elegantly original with a slightly poetical twist and yet serious watchmaking credentials, Trilobe is a young French brand founded by Gautier Massonneau and specialized in watches that tell the time differently. Next to the inaugural Les Matinaux and the eccentric, complex Une Folle Journée, the Nuit Fantastique represents the timeless and elegant option of the […]
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne’s is marking the 25th anniversary of its iconic chronograph with a series of limited editions, including the fresh-off-the-press Datograph Handwerkskunst. And now the brand has just announced a one-of-a-kind model that will be sold to benefit charity, the Datograph Up/Down “Hampton Court Edition”. In white gold with a dial in grey and black – plus a matching white gold bracelet – the one-off Datograph continues the tradition of periodic unique pieces to benefit The Prince’s Trust, a United Kingdom charity that aids at-risk youth. The last Hampton Court Edition was an 1815 Chronograph in white gold with a black dial. Initial thoughts In some ways this is similar to the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” in being a compilation of Lange’s greatest hits. An iconic model with a unique and appealing dial, along with a weighty solid gold bracelet, make this watch easily appealing. The grey, black, and red dial make this the sportiest Datograph ever, a look that is further accentuated with the gold bracelet. The aesthetic also suits the classic car theme of the watch. Like to sell for high-six, or even low-seven, figures, the Hampton Court Edition will easily become one of the most expensive Lange wristwatches ever sold. Concluding the anniversary The Hampton Court Edition is the final Datograph launched for the model’s 25th anniversary and is in some senses a variant of the Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary, which shares the sa...
Fratello
As someone who lives and breathes watches daily, I make it my business to keep track of as many brands and new releases as possible. However, there are a select number of brands that I avidly follow. Laurent Ferrier is one of them. The company designs piercingly clean watches that resonate with me. Today’s new […] Visit Laurent Ferrier Unveils The Classic Auto Sandstone to read the full article.
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SJX Watches
Breitling marks its 140th anniversary with a new calibre, the B19. Based on its longstanding B01, the B19 adds a perpetual calendar on top to create the most complicated in-house calibre in the brand’s stable. The B19 is making its debut in three different models, all clad in 140th anniversary livery: the Premier B19 Datora 42, Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar, and Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar. Initial thoughts One of the most sophisticated chronograph constructions in the mid range of the price spectrum, the B01 gains a worthy upgrade with the perpetual calendar. Granted the additional complication adds substantial height to the case – all of the three models are well over 15 mm high – but that’s acceptable for a self-winding chronograph with perpetual calendar. Interestingly, the B01 base movement of the B19 has been upgraded over the standard version with some improvements (no doubt courtesy of Kenissi, which bought the rights to the B01 construction), though it’s uncertain if these will make their way into the plain B01. Though all three are identical mechanically, they look and feel different. The Super Chronomat is super chunky and the largest of the three, while the Navitimer and Datora are slightly more compact and definitely more retro in terms of style. The old-school, four-register calendar layout arguably suits the vintage-inspired style better. All three retail for US$59,000, which is par for the course for this double com...
SJX Watches
Having released Chinese Zodiac editions annually for the past 12 years, Vacheron Constantin presents the Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac “Year of the Snake”. The serpent is the sixth Chinese zodiac sign for the upcoming year that begins with the Chinese New Year on January 29, 2025. Available in pink gold or platinum, the new zodiac edition illustrates the brand’s metiers d’art expertise with hand-engraving and enamelling on a dial that depicts a cobra. Initial thoughts Vacheron Constantin has developed a niche with its Métiers d’Art offerings, some of which, like the Wind God and Thunder God pair of repeaters, are exceptional. The Zodiac series is more accessible than the repeaters, but still relies on Vacheron Constantin’s in-house calibre with a unique display that indicates the time and calendar in windows, leaving the dial free for artisanal decoration. The quality of work on the dial is high, although the snake is not a universally loved creature, unlike say the dragon, which will limit the appeal of this particular edition. The king of snakes The snake edition employs the same case as last zodiac models, which measures 40 mm in diameter and 12.72 mm in thickness. The movement also remains the same cal. 2460 G4 with a window-based display. Instead of traditional hands, the watch displays the time, date, and day of the week through four windows on the dial. The apertures at 11 and one o’clock indicate the hours and minutes, whereas tho...
Fratello
In the 1999 movie The Talented Mr. Ripley, the character Dickie Greenleaf, who takes over Tom Ripley’s life, says, “‘See Venice and die,’ is what they say? Or is it Rome?” Well, Dickie, the city you’re looking for is Naples. But I have to admit I also thought Goethe once wrote that it was Venice. I […] Visit The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Venice Series” - Three Monet-Inspired Watches From The Métiers Rares Atelier to read the full article.
Monochrome
Handwerkskunst… If you know one thing or two about A. Lange & Söhne, you’ll understand that this slightly complex word for anyone not German is actually sweet to hear – to make it simple, it does translate by craftsmanship. What it means is rare watches, but mostly finishings and decorations of the highest rank. For […]
Fratello
The Oris Aquis is one of the brand’s most successful watches. Its modern and muscular looks are a hit. No wonder the people in Hölstein put a lot of effort into bringing out new versions every so often. This April, a new version of the Oris Aquis Date was presented with updates regarding ergonomics, aesthetics, […] Visit Introducing: The Muscular New Oris Aquis Chronograph to read the full article.
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