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11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 4 – David Silver, Director of the Vintage Watch Company Time+Tide
Dec 4, 2020

11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 4 – David Silver, Director of the Vintage Watch Company

Editor’s note: A few months back, we announced that former Editor of GQ Australia, Mike Christensen, was to be our first European Editor. In this series ‘11 Days of Londoners’, Mike will be sharing the stories of a few notable local collectors, starting on Day 1 with King Nerd, and with a stellar lineup still to come. … ContinuedThe post 11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 4 – David Silver, Director of the Vintage Watch Company appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Richard Mille RM 72-01 In-House Chronograph Featuring Fluid Constant Force Chrono Pushers (With Video) Quill & Pad
Richard Mille RM 72-01 In-House Chronograph Dec 3, 2020

Richard Mille RM 72-01 In-House Chronograph Featuring Fluid Constant Force Chrono Pushers (With Video)

The RM 72-01 is a first for Richard Mille – a relaxed, playful flyback chronograph that, while as interesting and eye-catching as its siblings, is quite a different mechanical beast from the others thanks to its in-house chronograph movement with a variety of new elements and even a world-first in watchmaking.

New: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition with Editorial Commentary Deployant
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition Dec 3, 2020

New: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition with Editorial Commentary

The latest co-creation between TAG Heuer and Bamford Watch Department, the world’s ultimate hub for personalised luxury, is an exclusive Aquaracer timepiece equipped with the Calibre 5 Automatic movement and limited to 1,500 pieces. Press release information with editorial commentary in italics. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition Reference WAY208F.BF0638 is available now. Retail S$5,500Read More

HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10551 is a true everyday hero Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Dec 3, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10551 is a true everyday hero

The definition of an everyday watch is one that doesn’t excel in any one particular area. It has to do everything, from jeans and hoodies, to bow ties and dinner jackets, and it has to do them all well. It needs to be noticeable yet invisible, characterful but discreet, and the Baume & Mercier Clifton … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10551 is a true everyday hero appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a sleeper hit in the crowded retro diver field Time+Tide
Longines Legend Diver Bronze Dec 2, 2020

VIDEO: The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a sleeper hit in the crowded retro diver field

The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a noteworthy remix. It takes the tried and true, double-crown, super compressor-style case of the original and breathes fresh life into it with the new material. The warmly toned bronze eliminates all of the conservative, vintage-inspired character of its steel sibling, and dramatically increases the level of rustic charm … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a sleeper hit in the crowded retro diver field appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 01 Cyber Skull SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Dec 1, 2020

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 01 Cyber Skull

Bell & Ross’ signature BR wristwatch is essentially an aviation instrument in a square case, a style that works well as a military watch, explaining the iterations in camouflage or a fighter jet “heads-up display”. Sometimes associated with airborne troops, the skull is a recurring theme for the BR series, and one that has been continually refined over the last decade. The BR skull watch been redesigned both visually and mechanically, most notably with the proprietary, automaton-skull form movement of two years ago. With the new BR 01 Cyber Skull, the brand has taken a new aesthetic direction with a case and dial that is strikingly modern – polygonal, facetted, and very much like a sci-fi villain – making it vastly different from earlier skull watches that often seemed like nostalgic memento mori. Initial thoughts Bringing to mind Skynet and other technological villains, the Cyber Skull departs from the style of its predecessors that were characterised by an organic skull and elaborate case patterns, essentially a digitised version of the original BR Skull watch. Though simple, the design is done well, with a cohesive aesthetic with the case and dial echoing one another. The case is clearly derived from the original BR-01, but done with more facets and angles, with the polygonal surfaces continuing on the skull and crossbones. The BR 01 Laughing Skull White (left) and the BR 01 Cyber Skull Both the case and skull are made of black ceramic, while the movement ...

New: Linde Werdelin Oktopus Blue Sea – pushing the limits of the lume with Editorial Commentary Deployant
Linde Werdelin Dec 1, 2020

New: Linde Werdelin Oktopus Blue Sea – pushing the limits of the lume with Editorial Commentary

Linde Werdelin collaborates with James Thompson of Black Badger to explore what is possible with a lume dial with the new Oktopus Blue Sea. Press Release information with commentary in italics The Linde Werdelin Oktopus Blue Sea retails for SGD 21,451 inclusive of GST or GBP 12,000 exclusive of VAT. Commentary Interesting new application ofRead More

Anordain Introduces the Model 1 Fumé SJX Watches
anOrdain Dec 1, 2020

Anordain Introduces the Model 1 Fumé

Having made its debut two years ago with the original Model 1, Anordain has just announced the Model 1 Fumé that features a fired enamel dial in graduated, translucent colour. Based in the Scottish city of Glasgow, Anordain’s specialty are vitreous enamel dials in lightly-designed, affordable watches, and the Model 1 Fumé boasts the most elaborate dial to date. Brightly coloured in the centre and darkening towards the edges, the dial of the new Model 1 is the result of experimenting with a silver dial base, instead of the usual copper. After a year’s worth of trial and error, Anordain’s pair of in-house enamellers finally perfected the smoked enamel dial. Initial thoughts With its fired enamel dial in pastel colours, the original Model 1 was an appealing watch with even more appealing value, being priced at a little under US$1,400 at the time. It was a modestly sized watch with a simple dial that was still distinctive, thanks to the proprietary typography and smart dial design. And the recognisable texture and colour of the enamel dial made it even better. The new Model 1 is essentially identical in terms of size and style. Although the case has been subtly redesigned, it retains the same dimensions, which means it wears well and feels a little bit like a vintage watch, albeit one that’s quite thick for the diameter. But the new dial is far more striking. In fact, the dial is similar to that found on last year’s Model 2, a good-looking watch that is a little b...

Introducing the Fratello x Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Revolution
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Dec 1, 2020

Introducing the Fratello x Oris Big Crown Pointer Date

Revolution speaks with Robert-Jan Broer of fratellowatches.com, on the launch of their limited edition watch made in partnership with Oris. The Fratello x Oris Big Crown Pointer Date is a 40mm bronze cased rendition of the watch with an oxblood dial that features rose gold colored hands and gilt print. The 300-piece limited edition will be sold exclusively through https://shop.fratello.com/ priced at €1,950

Seiko Presage: A 2020 Overview With Some New Watches Quill & Pad
Seiko Presage Nov 30, 2020

Seiko Presage: A 2020 Overview With Some New Watches

Seiko has always made it a point to deliver bang for your buck. And in recent years, the brand has been realigning its different collections with the aim of offering collectors exciting products in every price category. For the Presage, this means that there are now two tiers to the collection: Prestige and Basic. Martin Green takes us through a number of the latest models for 2020.

Philippe Dufour Announces a Lottery for the Simplicity 20th Anniversary SJX Watches
Nov 30, 2020

Philippe Dufour Announces a Lottery for the Simplicity 20th Anniversary

Soon after the very first of the Simplicity 20th Anniversary sold for a record US$1.51 million, Philippe Dufour revealed that Lebanese watch collector and gem merchant Claude Sfeir will now be his exclusive retailer worldwide. Historically selling direct to clients but also represented by a handful of retailers around the world, most notably Shellman in Tokyo, Mr Dufour has now streamlined his distribution. Having known Mr Dufour for some 40 years, Mr Sfeir will handle the sale of the 20 Simplicity 20th Anniversary watches, as well as whatever timepieces Mr Dufour may debut in the future. With Mr Dufour himself keeping the last of the 21 anniversary timepieces, the first 10 examples will be sold direct to clients. While not revealing the specifics of the allocation process, Mr Sfeir noted during a phone conversation he hoped to that the watches would be evenly distributed around the world. The last 10 watches will be allocated in a lottery that will take place in Switzerland. It will be a formal event, with a huissier de justice – an officer of the court in Switzerland – serving as a witness. According to Mr Sfeir, the restructuring of the distribution will not only help Mr Dufour build a more commercially sustainable business, but also ensure the Dufour brand name can continue into the next generation. Mr Sfeir also let on that Mr Dufour’s daughter, Daniela, is almost done with her watchmaking education. She will join Mr Dufour at the bench at the end of 2020, o...

TAG Heuer Introduces the Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Ghost Nov 30, 2020

TAG Heuer Introduces the Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition

Launched in 2004 as an offshoot of the 2000 Series, the Aquaracer is the quintessential TAG Heuer dive watch. Solidly constructed and usually good value, the Aquaracer has pretty much stuck to the same aesthetic since it was launched. But it leaves staid looks behind with the Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition, a surprisingly cool diver designed by Bamford Watch Department (BWD), the watch customiser par excellence. Coming a week after the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Ghost, the new Aquaracer is the second BWD collab in as many weeks. But the Aquaracer at the other end of the spectrum, both in design and price. The Laureato Ghost was entirely in white ceramic, while the Aquaracer is all matte titanium and more accessibly priced – although it is expensive for an Aquaracer. Initial thoughts BWD excels at applying new colours and textures to existing designs to create a whole new look. This has been achieved here, most notably with the sandblasted finish on the case and bracelet. Because the material is titanium – nearly all Aquaracers to date are steel – the result is a grey, granular surface that gives it the feel of no-nonsense “tool” watch. The dial features a notable degree of nuance for a “tool” watch, including a radial pattern and moulded Super-Luminova blocks for hour markers. A quirky detail that’s been found on other BWD watches also makes an appearance here: an alternating white-and-orange tip for the seconds hand, which brings to mind a clownfish o...

HANDS-ON: Let’s be real, the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Day Date Moon Phase is stupendously good-looking Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Nov 30, 2020

HANDS-ON: Let’s be real, the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Day Date Moon Phase is stupendously good-looking

Everyone loves good value. It’s always nice to walk away from a purchase with the smug feeling that you got a lot more than what you paid for. One brand that consistently provides those good vibes is Baume & Mercier. They really know how to walk the fine line between luxury and accessibility and it … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Let’s be real, the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Day Date Moon Phase is stupendously good-looking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Chronomat B01 42 (2020) Review WatchAdvice
Breitling Chronomat B01 42 2020 Nov 29, 2020

Breitling Chronomat B01 42 (2020) Review

Breilting’s Chronomat model has been around since 1984, holding a significant place in the brand’s history ever since its release. The Chronomat was released at a time when quartz watches were the popular choice for wrist wear. In 1984, Breitling took an impressive risk, by designing and releasing a mechanical timepiece into a much quartz driven world. The Chronomat upon its release proved to be a winner and became an icon that to this day enthusiasts still love.  The original Breitling Chronomat was inspired by the Frecce Tricolori watch, which was created in 1983 alongside the famous aerobatic demonstration team of the Italian Air Force; Frecce Tricolori. The stylish design codes of the 1984 Chronomat made this timepiece truly an all-purpose sports watch. Although the Breitling Chronomat was seen as a watch for pilots and the aviation industry, it was just as popular in other areas such as Formula 1 teams. The unique reversible rider tabs also made the Chronomat ideally suited for regattas as well.  With such versatility, the Breitling Chronomat was made to be a daily wearer, a watch that you can wear on the red carpet while fitting in perfectly at outdoor activities and the beach. The latest Breitling Chronomat collection released in 2020 captures all the essence and qualities of the original model while giving it an update with modern design cues and movement, showcasing the brand’s future.  Breitling Chronomat reference AB0134101K1A1 In regards to the Chronom...

Up Close: MIH Gaïa Watch SJX Watches
Nov 29, 2020

Up Close: MIH Gaïa Watch

Announced last year as a fundraising project for the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH), the MIH Gaïa was delayed for a couple of months due to the pandemic-induced shutdown in Switzerland, but the 200-piece limited edition was recently completed and is now being delivered. Inspired by the Brutalist style of the museum building, the Gaïa watch is a clean but smart design that combines a novel time display with a well-finished case. And importantly, proceeds from its sale go to the MIH, an important horological institution that’s the largest time-measurement museum in the world. Initial thoughts Attractive in design and feel, the Gaïa is an honest product that helps a good cause. Although the style is minimalist, the design incorporates elements that give it a distinctive appearance, most notably the angled lugs and domed minute disc. Although the watch is not large, it has good presence on the wrist as a result of the design. The time display seems unconventional at first, but is actually straightforward, relying on discs instead of hands for both hours and minutes. Reminiscent of a weighing scale, it’s easy to read, though the hour disc looks initially odd because the numerals are arranged anti-clockwise. The minute disc, on the other hand, is conventional but one of the defining visual elements of the watch, thanks to the fact that it’s recessed and slightly spherical. The case is worth pointing out for its form and finish, especially on the lugs. They...

HANDS-ON: An intense love letter to the ‘retro futurism’ of the H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Nov 28, 2020

HANDS-ON: An intense love letter to the ‘retro futurism’ of the H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph

Once again, I am confused, seriously confused. When I’d finally sussed out the language of Moser they have another ace up their sleeve. Not entirely new, but even after being out for almost a year it still astounds me when I get my hands on it, and here it delights with a new alluring blue … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: An intense love letter to the ‘retro futurism’ of the H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Place your bets! Which Rolex Oyster Perpetual 2020 dial colour will sell for the highest price at the Hong Kong Watch Auction later today? Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nov 28, 2020

Place your bets! Which Rolex Oyster Perpetual 2020 dial colour will sell for the highest price at the Hong Kong Watch Auction later today?

This year’s Melbourne Cup is over, but now there’s an exciting new race, with the runners and riders taking horological form. That’s because this Sunday, Phillips is hosting the Hong Kong Watch Auction: XI. There’s a drool-worthy collection of pieces up for grabs, including watches from Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Söhne and many more. … ContinuedThe post Place your bets! Which Rolex Oyster Perpetual 2020 dial colour will sell for the highest price at the Hong Kong Watch Auction later today? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Montblanc High Artistry Heritage Egyptomania Limited Edition Fountain Pens Quill & Pad
Montblanc High Artistry Heritage Egyptomania Nov 27, 2020

Montblanc High Artistry Heritage Egyptomania Limited Edition Fountain Pens

The Montblanc 2020 High Artistry Heritage Egyptomania Limited Edition writing instruments use the treasures and traditions of Egypt as inspiration, and in a new twist each pen is encased in an octagonal “sarcophagus.” A special mechanism opens and closes the bejeweled receptacle, which is as functional as it is decorative and most unusual in the world of luxury pens.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Les Cabinotiers “Bid for the Louvre” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Nov 27, 2020

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Les Cabinotiers “Bid for the Louvre”

Having restored one of the Louvre’s most important timepieces – La Création du Monde, an 18th-century astronomical clock owned by King Louis XV – Vacheron Constantin subsequently announced a three-year partnership with the Parisian museum last year. The very first collaborative project between the watchmaker and museum has finally arrived: Les Cabinotiers “Bid for the Louvre”. A one-off timepiece that will feature a miniature of a work of art in Louvre selected by the client – who will chose it during a private tour of the museum – the watch will be sold at Bid for the Louvre, an online auction at Christie’s that takes place from December 1-15. Other luxury brands as well as contemporary artists have also contributed items to Bid for the Louvre, and all proceeds from the auction will go to the museum. The courtyard of the Louvre with the famous glass pyramid designed by I.M. Pei Initial thoughts Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art watches are decorated with varied artisanal decorative techniques, but they are almost always exceptionally beautiful. The dials are sometimes intricate, sometimes delicate, and occasionally elaborately ornamental, but always executed to a high level, by both the brand’s in-house artisans as well as independent specialists like Anita Porchet. In fact, many of the Métiers d’Art watches feature dial work finer than comparable watches from the competition. What makes the Louvre watch special is the opportunity to rep...

Sean Wallace’s Rolex Datejust in Gangs of London shows that the watch doesn’t always maketh the man Time+Tide
Rolex Datejust Nov 27, 2020

Sean Wallace’s Rolex Datejust in Gangs of London shows that the watch doesn’t always maketh the man

Too often in a TV drama, a character’s watch is just a random accessory lobbed in by the wardrobe department at the last minute. Yet when it’s done right, a watch can become infused with psychological depth and meaning. And when it’s done to absolute perfection it can deliver a tell-tale insight into a character’s … ContinuedThe post Sean Wallace’s Rolex Datejust in Gangs of London shows that the watch doesn’t always maketh the man appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Longines Legend Diver Bronze makes warm metals cool again Time+Tide
Longines Legend Diver Bronze makes Nov 27, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Longines Legend Diver Bronze makes warm metals cool again

The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a pitch-perfect, vintage-style diver. Yet somehow it’s failed to get the attention it deserves due, in part, because understatement is the name of its game. While the Rado Captain Cook turns heads with its lush colourways and the Oris Divers Sixty-Five makes noise with its ever-changing iterations, this bronze … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Legend Diver Bronze makes warm metals cool again appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our 5 picks from the (crazy) Longines Black Friday sale Time+Tide
Longines Black Friday sale Nov 26, 2020

Our 5 picks from the (crazy) Longines Black Friday sale

This year, Longines is jumping on board the Black Friday sales and, boy, are there deals to be had. With watches from across their different collections up for grabs, if you’ve been in the market for one of the Saint-Imier brand’s watches for a while and haven’t pulled the trigger, today is the day to … ContinuedThe post Our 5 picks from the (crazy) Longines Black Friday sale appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New release: Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter with Editorial Commentary (critical) Deployant
Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Nov 26, 2020

New release: Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter with Editorial Commentary (critical)

Louis Erard continues to partner with watchmaking creators, and builds another bridge with high-end watchmaking by working alongside Vianney Halter, an artist whose every creation is a collector’s dream item. Here, the latest novelty is the Louis Erard x Vianney Halter – a 178 piece limited edition, automatic regulator, priced at CHF 3,500. Press releaseRead More

Louis Erard Introduces the Le Régulateur Vianney Halter SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces Nov 26, 2020

Louis Erard Introduces the Le Régulateur Vianney Halter

Almost exactly a year after the inaugural limited edition designed by Alain Silberstein, Louis Erard has just unveiled its second collaboration, this time with Vianney Halter, the watchmaker best known for a unique, steampunk-inspired aesthetic. Designed by Mr Halter and made by Louis Erard, the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter is based on the Excellence Régulateur, but dressed up with many of the independent watchmaker’s signature design elements on the dial. Initial thoughts The dial is executed with the distinctive aesthetic found on Mr Halter’s best-known watches, namely the Antiqua and Classic – which were penned by American designer Jeff Barnes. Although the case and dial layout are identical to Louis Erard’s stock regulator model, the typography and hands of Mr Halter are unique enough to make it instantly recognisable. As it is based on the standard model, the Régulateur Vianney Halter has the same strengths and weaknesses. Most obviously, it is affordable and good value, but the case is thick at a little over 12 mm high, meaning it feels slightly chunky. Conceptually, this collaboration functioned exactly like the earlier one with Alain Silberstein, but it feels less complete because of the background of the collaborator. While Mr Silberstein was always a watch designer, Mr Halter is well established as a watchmaker and known as a skilled prototypist. As a result, while the new watch possesses a recognisable Vianney Halter style – and it ...