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Time+Tide
From Citizen roots to shutting down, HMT watches still offer plenty of value - but getting one is a different story.The post Why are HMT watches underrated outside of India? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Hey Southern California, here we come. Any of you long time Worn & Wound readers will know that The James Brand is a company that’s been near and dear to our hearts for quite some time. They’re known for crafting some of the best everyday tools for modern explorers including utility knives and tools made with premium materials. We’re excited to share that The James Brand has opened a new location in Oceanside, CA! This space features a public retail area that showcases their signature modern, minimal everyday carry products. Join us in celebrating this occasion with an all-day West Coast Summer Pop-up and experience our unique offerings firsthand. The Worn & Wound West Coast Summer Pop-up hosted by The James Brand Saturday, August 17, 2024 12PM – 6PM Pacific The James Brand HQ 425 S Coast Hwy Oceanside, CA 92054 Free and open to the public. In addition to The James Brand and the Windup Watch Shop, several of our favorite watch brands will be there too, including Artefkt, Belmont Watch Co., Brew Watch Co., Citizen, Lōcī, and Zodiac, showcasing their latest and greatest releases available for viewing and purchase. This includes the very last 10 units of TJB’s latest collaboration with Timex: the Limited Edition Automatic GMT in Titanium. On behalf of The James Brand and our other brand partners joining us for this pop-up, we can’t wait to see you all, grab a drink, check out some cool gear, and talk watches. Since this event is free and open to the public, no R...
Worn & Wound
Longines has been experiencing significant success in the enthusiast space since their pilot-style Spirit line of watches launched. Over the last few years, they have introduced 39mm variants and a GMT version called the Spirit Zulu Time. Zulu time is a military term that refers to Universal Time Coordinated (UTC). These timepieces, also known as GMT watches, can show a second time zone using a third hand and a 24-hour scale on the dial. In December 2023, Longines partnered with Hodinkee to produce a special version of the Zulu Time in grade 5 titanium, featuring a 39mm case and limited to only 500 pieces worldwide. This special edition bore a striking resemblance to another brand’s popular GMT watch but was significantly thinner and much less slab-sided, which appealed to many collectors. As successful as that model was, Longines did step away from the original charm of the Spirit collection, leaving enthusiasts wanting a grade 5 Titanium GMT watch that was not a limited edition. They have heard the call and have just announced a new 39mm Spirit Zulu Time in this material, which fits right in with all the others in the lineup. Why are we explicitly mentioning the titanium grade used in these watches? In wristwatches, there are generally two types of titanium used. Grade 2 and grade 5, and while they both have the key qualities that make the material special (they are both very light), there is a tangible difference. Grade 2 titanium is commercially pure titanium, which ...
SJX Watches
First conceived as an auto-racing inspired take on its jumping hour wristwatch, the Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Intense Black Edition is the second iteration of the model. Retaining the same design as the original Monsieur Superleggera, the Intense Black Edition is powered by the Caliber 1, a thoughtfully constructed in-house movement. Italian for “super light”, Superleggera is named after the lightweight body-on-frame race cars of the 1930s, a reference to the ceramic-on-steel construction of the Monsieur case. Initial thoughts The original Chanel Monsieur was proof that “fashion” brands can create watches as good as, or better than, their traditional watchmaking counterparts. I liked it for the fact that the design of both the watch and the movement were cohesive, illustrating an attention to detail – right down to the shape of the balance wheel and typography – that most watch brands lack. The Marble Edition is a particular favourite. A sportier and slightly larger version of the original, the Monsieur Superleggera has a more designed aesthetic with the textured, open-worked dial and crown guards, but the design still remains cohesive. It has just the right amount of detail, including the applied retro “Superleggera” logo. Styling aside, the movement remains the same and excellent. Besides the unusual complications – jumping hours and retrograde minutes in a vertically symmetrically layout – the Caliber 1 has a distinctive construction that show...
Time+Tide
Silver is a material you'll rarely see used for casemaking these days, but these manufacturers have pretty much perfected it.The post 5 of the best silver watches, fashionably using an out-of-fashion case material appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
Kudoke has just unveiled an iteration of its signature day-night wristwatch, the Kudoke 2 Indigo “Isetan”, a limited edition of just 15 watches for the upscale department store Isetan, the Japanese equivalent of Selfridges or Galeries Lafayette. The new Kudoke 2 is part of the “Indigo” series of timepieces by independent watchmakers with blue dials that pay homage to the traditional Japanese fabric dyeing technique. It retains the familiar Kudoke 2 dial with the hand-engraved day-night indicator at 12 o’clock, but with a vertically-brushed, dark blue finish. Initial thoughts Best known for its value-minded watches with hand-engraved decoration, the German independent sticks to what it does best with the Indigo edition. The blue-and-gold palette works well, with the rhodium-plated elements, namely the hands, logo plaque, and chapter rings complementing the colour. It is an excellent example of the affordable watchmaking with artisanal touches that’s central to Kudoke’s philosophy (and was also the base for our own 2021 Kudoke 2 “Zodiac”). That said, this is one of several variations of the model that different only in dial colour. The many colour versions make the limited-edition concept less interesting in itself, though the Indigo is striking and one of the most appealing of the versions. Priced at JPY1.98 million, or about US$13,500, the Kudoke 2 Indigo is the typical Kudoke value proposition with features rare at this price point. Besides being small-...
SJX Watches
The Jumping Hours Black Jade Stone is Andersen Genève’s new take on its minimalist, digital hour timepiece. Retaining the same specifications, it once against uses the wide expanse of the dial for visual effect. The dial is a large, seamless piece of black jade just 0.4 mm thick that’s been lapped to a perfectly flat, mirrored finish. The glossy black dial is unadorned save for the hour display 12 o’clock, along with a pink gold minute hand matched with pink gold-powder printing. Initial thoughts Bringing to mind vintage jump hour pocket watches with its clean dial, the Andersen Jumping Hours is a perfect canvas for dial decoration given the available space. Even though it looks plain at a distance, the black jade dial is striking in its colour and simplicity, while also revealing the natural grain up close. The time display, however, is unconventional. While the hours are easy to read, the minute register at six is easily and often mistaken for the seconds. Though I can understand the design-driven purpose of the minute sub-dial, I would have done it another way to make reading of the time more intuitive. The quality of work is typical Andersen, which is artisanal and visibly so. It doesn’t have the perfect execution found in a Voutilainen or Akrivia but is done well. The price is commensurate with the quality – at about US$59,000 is more or less mid-range amongst high-end independent watchmakers. Time only in black jade One of the pioneering independent watchm...
Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin taps into a more creative vein with the latest quartet of watches celebrating ancient Chinese culture. Emerging from Vacheron’s Métiers d’Art atelier, the four models offer two different interpretations of the legendary Chinese motif known as the “Seawater Cliff”. The motif, which appeared in the 14th century, represents the sea crashing against steep […]
SJX Watches
A limited edition available only in Europe, the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon “Blue Panda” is another take on TAG Heuer’s value-minded complication. Retaining the familiar Glassbox case, this has an attractive white-and-blue dial with the flying tourbillon at six. Initial thoughts When TAG Heuer released the Carrera Glassbox in 2023, it was well received as a successful attempt at modernising a classic racing chronograph. Although the Glassbox is clearly vintage inspired, it is still an original design. The Blue Panda builds on the appeal of the Glassbox by making it more complication, adding a tourbillon to the mix. Notably, the Blue Panda is the only current variant of the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon with contrast-colour registers, which gives more retro vibes. Although the 42 mm case is slightly bigger than the standard Carrera without tourbillon, the short lugs allow it to wear quite well on various wrists. Priced at €25,200 with taxes, the Blue Panda is priced similar to other versions of the model, and remains a decent value proposition. While it is far more expensive than the affordable chronographs that TAG Heuer is known for, it is affordable for this combination of complications. Though the in-house movement is industrially executed, it is high quality and packaged in the attractive Glassbox case. Another species of “Panda” The stainless steel case is 42 mm in diameter and 14.3 mm in thickness, and retains the signature elements of the Carrera Gla...
Time+Tide
G-Shocks have been a staple of the fashion community for years, and now the brand is leaning in with this Gorpcore collection.The post Just when you thought a G-Shock couldn’t get any more utilitarian appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
One of Omega's most expensive watches, we examine what makes the Aqua Terra Ultra Light as costly as it is.The post Why does the Omega Aqua Terra Ultra Light cost over US$50,000? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
The King Seiko KS1969 Limited Edition is a timeless tribute to Seiko’s heritage, reimagined for the modern era. What We Love: Like current Seiko models, this latest King Seiko gets a modern slimmed-down reinterpretation. The multiple polished finishes from the case, bezel, and dial elements to the bracelet! The greenish-blue colour combined with the dragon-scale pattern makes the dial pop! What We Don’t: Not everyone may agree with the choice of dial colours for this collection from Seiko The movement needs to match the build quality and high level of finishing on the timepiece. It would’ve been great to get the date wheel to colour-match the new dial colours! Overall Rating: 8.9/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 In July this year, Seiko unveiled a new series of King Seiko dress watches to revive a classic heritage design. Before we get into this latest creation, we first need to look at King Seiko and some of the signature designs that came with it. The name of King Seiko is just as important to Japanese watchmakers as the name and brand of Grand Seiko. The story goes that King Seiko was first launched in 1961 alongside Grand Seiko, who were direct competitors of each other. Seiko did this because of the brand’s relentless pursuit of perfection and quality, as the rivalry between King Seiko and Grand Seiko would produce some exceptional timepieces. The 1960s were seen as the golden era for Seiko, as the brand quickly...
Fratello
We are back with another series of Fratelli Favorites. After a few more accessible price points, we are now looking at the best watches under €10K - or, at least, our favorites under €10K since this will always be highly subjective. As is often the case, I get the honor of kicking things off, leaving […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K -Thomas’s Picks From Rolex, Zenith, And IWC to read the full article.
SJX Watches
IWC recently facelifted the entire Portugieser line, and along with it the flagship Portugieser Automatic 42 “7 Days”, now in its fourth generation. Though the tweaks are cosmetic but significant, with an attention to detail that results in clear aesthetic enhancements. Compared to the earlier generation ref. 5007, the new Portugieser has a sharper, more refined appearance, while also feeling slightly more compact. Initial thoughts Though the overall design is mostly unchanged over the earlier generation, Portugieser 7-Days immediately looks and feels different in the hand. It looks a little bit shinier, slightly more polished, as if more effort was put into making it look like an expensive watch. The appearance is subtly different yet instantly obvious, and is the cumulative result of small improvements to the case, dial, and crystal. The improvements are particularly evident compared to the first generation Portugieser ref. 5000 launched in 2000, which feels almost like a vintage watch from another era. The improvements are incremental and hardly imaginative, but they are well done. Granted not everyone might like the polished new look. The lacquered dial, for instance, has an obvious glossy finish. But most of the improvements are more subtle, particularly on the case that now has a slimmer profile and improved finishing. Importantly, the revamped Portugieser is priced almost exactly the same as its predecessor ref. 5007 (the increase is a few hundred dollars). It i...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
After a controversial release cycle at Watches & Wonders this year, Bremont seems to be iterating on a core design that probably won't raise as many eyebrows this time. The new Bremont Broadsword Recon Bronze is now the next installment within the brand's "Military" lineup. You've seen the design before, but now, Bremont is taking time to refresh some interest in models that didn't spend as much time in the spotlight earlier in the year. Personally, I like the look-even though the case material would usually lead me to shy away.
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Worn & Wound
Some people, if you were to ask them, would say that the most exhilarating moment in sports is the bottom of the ninth with two outs and the winning run at the plate. Others would say it’s penalty kicks at the World Cup, the final two minutes of a basketball game, or a last-minute Hail Mary. Ask me the same question, and you’ll get a different answer. For my money, the most exciting moment in sports comes at the end of a tennis match. Unlike soccer, football, or basketball, tennis isn’t a sport where you can run out the clock. To win, you have to earn the last point and, until that happens, a comeback is never out of the question. Despite matches sometimes lasting for hours, time isn’t explicitly a factor in tennis, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t matter, and there is no stronger evidence for that than the strong connection between some of the world’s leading watch brands and the sport of tennis. This past weekend, I got to experience that connection firsthand with a visit to the Mubadala Citi DC Open, where Rado was serving as the tournament’s official timekeeper. With Rado’s clocks tracking the passing time both on and off the court, there was no better host to welcome us to Rock Creek Park, or with whom to celebrate one of my favorite sports in one of my favorite cities. Though Rado’s relationship with tennis extends back much further (well over thirty years), this is only their second year partnering with the Mubadala Citi DC Open. But just because...
WatchAdvice
We’ve gone hands on with the Hublot Big Bang Meca-10, and after a week with this piece on the wrist, here’s what we think! What We Love: Its undeniable wrist presence! Unique in-house movement with 10-day power reserve The Meccano-inspired design elements What We Don’t: Is large and won’t suit all wrists Clasp can irritate the wrist a little if the strap is too loose Not as versatile as other Hublot offerings Overall Rating: 8.625/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 This is the first time that I have personally had the opportunity to review a piece from Hublot. Yes, I’ve worn them before and had many times to play around with them, but never in a capacity where I’m actively putting pen to paper (So to speak) and sitting down and writing my thoughts on them. It’s a different exercise doing this compared to just wearing the watches and appreciating them for what they are and enjoying them. I mean, how many times do you sit down and write 2000 words on your daily wearer? It makes you think differently about it, especially as you try and put yourself in someone else’s shoes who may be considering a new purchase. No pressure at all! The Hublot Big Bang Meca-10. Big, blue and beautiful! Having had a fair bit of exposure to Hublot over the last few years, I’ve come into this review with a little more knowledge than had I done this prior, and as I’ve discovered time and time again, the more knowledge you have around...
Fratello
With Steamboat Willie now in the public domain, the film’s main character is ready to let loose! In this second Steamboat Willie-inspired release, IFL Watches lets Willie work the crowd as a DJ on the dial of a G-Shock CasiOak. The hand-painted dial lights up under UV light to brighten up Willie’s party. It creates […] Visit Attention, Party People! - IFL Watches Introduces The G-Shock CasiOak DJ Willie to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Mechanical escapements remain the most fascinating and enticing field of horological study even in the 21st century. At its core, an escapement has a simple purpose: restore lost energy to the oscillating organ while regulating the discharge speed of the going train – thus allowing for time measurement. Straightforward as the concept is, executing an escapement well is a completely different affair. The escapement is perhaps the element of the mechanical movement that has undergone the most iterations since its invention. The reason is simple: escapements were, and remain, imperfect systems. In fact, the escapement is often the least efficient aspect of a mechanical movement in terms of energy transfer. That’s why watchmakers and engineers have devised innumerable variants in the search of the ideal escapement. Explaining escapement efficiency In physics the efficiency of a system is the proportion of useful work done relative to the total work done by said system. The result, measured as a percentage, speaks to the energy conserved within the system. For example, an 80% efficiency means that 20% of the total available energy is lost, with the remaining 80% usefully conserved. That said, an efficient escapement isn’t necessarily chronometrically-potent, since there are more criteria, apart from energy conservation, which reflect in a movement’s accuracy. The way in which escapement parts impulse to the balance, the proximity of the equilibrium point and the deg...
Fratello
Another Sunday, another showdown! This week, we are pitting two heavy hitters against each other. Jorg will defend the honors of the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante. Thomas, in the other corner, will fight for the Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir. After several weeks of attainable tool watches in the showdown, this is a battle between two […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Vs. Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante to read the full article.
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Monochrome
In our series on historically significant calibres, the best way to honour the El Primero calibre is by highlighting its qualities, functional characteristics, and pivotal role in shaping the watchmaking industry. While the tale of its salvation in 1976, along with that of Zenith as a company, by a courageous man defying the ill will […]
SJX Watches
Edouard Meylan took the helm of H. Moser & Cie. just over a decade ago, after the brand was acquired by his family. Together with his brother Bertrand, who leads the brand’s distribution, the chief executive of Moser has successfully turned around a brand that was in dire straits when the Meylans took charge. Industry talk at the time was that the brand’s founder, a dental implant billionaire, had sunk some CHF100 million into Moser. Today Moser is an independent brand that’s widely regarded to be on sound footing. Despite the slowdown that is gradually taking hold in the luxury-watch industry, Moser will in all likelihood enjoy a longevity, unlike many of its peers in the independent watchmaking space. Notably, neither Edouard Meylan nor his brother are watchmakers, instead they are entrepreneurs in the mould of Maximilian Büsser and Richard Mille. Mr Meylan’s business sensibilities are apparent, as we discover in the interview below. Amongst other things, he explains why the Streamliner is capped at a third of overall revenue, despite being a runaway bestseller. He also discusses the brand progressive vertical integration, as well as the possibility of expanding his family’s holdings beyond the duo of H. Moser & Cie. and Hautlence. Bertrand Meylan (left), and Edouard Meylan The interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: Moser recently got into Formula 1 [with the Alpine F1 Team sponsorship], and I understand you just returned from a race. Edouard Meylan...
Time+Tide
When the New York Times wants to know about microbrands, Andrew McUtchen is often the first man they call. The post Andrew McUtchen tells the New York Times all about microbrands appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Hello, and welcome! You’re listening to Fratello Talks. This week’s episode features RJ, Daan, and Nacho, three members of the Fratello team who join forces to wax poetic about some of their favorite affordable watches. This is the first volume of what will almost certainly become a recurring topic for the podcast. There are simply […] Visit Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Affordable Watches Vol. 1 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Citizen watches have played an enormous role in shaping the taste and opinions of many of us at Worn & Wound, and the same can likely be said for a large percentage of our readers. They are a brand that is truly ubiquitous in that their philosophy has always been to create watches for everyone, for every citizen, and that comes through loud and clear when you take even a cursory look at their product offerings at any given time. Over the past several years, Citizen has expanded their reach into the enthusiast watch world through a variety of releases that offer an exceptional amount of bang for buck when it comes to materials, technology, and aesthetics, while always maintaining their mass market appeal. Anyone who follows the watch industry closely knows that there are only a handful of brands that can truly claim to be embraced by both the mass market and the cult of watch aficionados, and Citizen is most definitely part of that exclusive group. This year marks the 100th anniversary of the very first Citizen watch, and they’re marking the occasion with a traveling exhibition that should appeal to hardcore collectors and hobbyists as well as more casual watch lovers and Citizen owners. The Essence of Time exhibit, which we had a chance to tour recently at its New York City debut, is an impressive testament to Citizen’s impact on the watch landscape over the past century, and offers the public an opportunity to view important Citizen watches from throughout the brand...
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