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Pie Pan Dial Omega

Faceted multi-level dial designed by Pierre Vibert for the 1952 Omega Constellation; modern Globemaster reissue.
The Dirty Dozen Watches As Interpreted By Half A Dozen Affordable Microbrands Fratello
Audemars Piguet Dec 29, 2024

The Dirty Dozen Watches As Interpreted By Half A Dozen Affordable Microbrands

We often hear statements like, “This watch is a true classic,” or “This is a timeless design.” Typically, such statements refer to big names in the watch industry, such as Rolex and the Submariner, Omega and the Speedmaster, or Audemars Piguet and the Royal Oak. That’s either because their designs are simple and indeed timeless […] Visit The Dirty Dozen Watches As Interpreted By Half A Dozen Affordable Microbrands to read the full article.

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Explained: The Rolex Parachrom Hairspring SJX Watches
Patek Philippe turning Dec 20, 2024

Explained: The Rolex Parachrom Hairspring

Over the last decade, metal alloy hairsprings seem to fallen out of favour across watchmaking, with even conservative, haute horlogerie brands like Breguet and Patek Philippe turning to silicon balance springs. Not to mention large-scale makers of sporty watches like Omega and Tudor, which already transitioned to silicon balance springs. Rolex, however, stands out. The Geneva marque continues to employ a hairspring fabricated of its proprietary blue alloy – the Parachrom hairspring. The Parachrom hairspring inside the cal. 4131 of the Cosmograph Daytona The advantages of alloy The use of blue Parachrom is rooted in the simple fact that the right metal alloy boasts performance that is at least on par with its silicon counterpart – while offering some distinct advantages missing in silicon. Alloy hairsprings are traditionally made of Nivarox (and its family of related alloys), a special alloy that neither oxidises nor change its dimensions with variations in temperature. Invented in 1933 and almost a century old, Nivarox is a mix of nickel and iron, making it a ferromagnetic alloy, thus susceptible to influence from magnetic fields.  The cal. 3255 of the Day-Date 40 is equipped with a Parachrom hairspring. Image – Rolex In order to make its hairsprings more resistant to magnetism and to bypass the Swatch-imposed monopoly on Nivarox hairsprings (Nivarox-FAR being one of the key companies of Swatch Group), Rolex set out to develop its own hairspring alloy in the early 2...

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The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: Why George Daniels’ Co-Axial Escapement Revolutionised Mechanical Watchmaking Worn & Wound
Breguet through Nov 26, 2024

The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: Why George Daniels’ Co-Axial Escapement Revolutionised Mechanical Watchmaking

Editor’s Note: Today, the final installment of The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time. Here, Andrew Canter examines the story behind the co-axial escapement, invented by George Daniels, industrialized by Omega, and now considered one of the great watchmaking innovations of all time.  You can find more of Andrew’s work at the Mr. Watchmaster website here. George Daniels (1926 – 2011) was raised in London in poverty. Aged five, he pried open his family’s alarm clock and realised that it was a metaphor for his life – always moving inexorably onwards, but without outside assistance. He was determined to learn horology, despite his parents’ opposition. He was conscripted into military service in 1944 which unleashed his innate mechanical skills, and following the end of the war, he studied horology, while repairing watches in North London.  He gained access to the work of the greatest watchmakers, particularly Abraham-Louis Breguet, through a meeting with a collector, and when it seemed that quartz technology would overwhelm traditional watchmaking, Daniels ensured this would not come to fruition. He made a series of increasingly ingenious mechanical watches, heavily influenced by Breguet, teaching himself to make every part, now referred to as the ‘Daniels Method’. Essentially, he devised a virtually oil-free escapement – the now iconic co-axial escapement – which was later mass-produced by Omega. It was anything but an easy journey, but George D...

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Hands-On: the Dennison ALD Collection Worn & Wound
Zenith Nov 25, 2024

Hands-On: the Dennison ALD Collection

Watch history is often the story of unsung heroes. Zenith is commonly credited as the creator of the first automatic chronograph, while their collaborator Movado is often a footnote, if mentioned at all. The Omega Speedmaster, famously the first watch worn on the moon, gets most of the street cred when discussing out-of-this-world watches. However, any mention of the actual first watch worn in space, the Sturmanskie, is a deep cut rarely discussed. Mid-century watch cases tend to follow the same trend. While brands like Rolex, IWC and Zenith were busy becoming household names, the third party manufacturers making the cases of their renowned classics worked diligently in the shadows. One such case designer and manufacturer was Dennison, a brand you may never have heard of, but undoubtedly handled if you are a fan of vintage luxury Swiss watches. Founded in 1874 by Aaron Lufkin Dennison (who the ALD collection is named after), Dennison became a powerhouse of both design forward and spec focused watch cases. Their patented air and water tight cases could be found on the wrists of members of the British Military, housed the famous Smith dials that submitted Everest in 1953 and even accompanied Lt. Commander Lithgow when he broke the world air speed record. Dennison went dormant after the 1960’s and, like many other once-defunct brands that followed suit with the emergence of the quartz crisis, has risen from the ashes. Resurrection stories can be hit and miss, leading many e...

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The Fratello Watch List: RJ’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Breguet, Lange, Grand Seiko, And More Fratello
Grand Seiko Nov 22, 2024

The Fratello Watch List: RJ’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Breguet, Lange, Grand Seiko, And More

It has been a while since I bought a new watch. And by that, I mean not a pre-owned or vintage one. Just last weekend, I bought another vintage Constellation at a local auction to satisfy my hunger. One of the reasons I refrain from buying new watches these days is that prices of certain […] Visit The Fratello Watch List: RJ’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Breguet, Lange, Grand Seiko, And More to read the full article.

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Christopher Ward Bel Canto Classic Nov 10, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 93: Tudor Answers our Prayers and the Bel Canto Plays On

We return to the newness on episode 93 of A Week in Watches. There have been a lot of very interesting releases in the last few weeks, ranging from new versions of popular watches to new complications from unexpected sources. The episode begins by looking at the Christopher Ward Bel Canto Classic, a neo-traditional take on the brand’s runaway hit. Following this, we leave Earth to discuss the Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch Mission to Earth Phase. Yes, it’s another MoonSwatch, but this one does something no other watch has done before. Afterward, we discuss the new Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT. The first Pelagos GMT from the ever-popular brand, it brings the FXD back to its military roots. Finally, we talk about some new Seiko Prospex divers that, to be frank, have us altogether confused. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop, where the all new the Timex X Worn & Wound WW75 V3 is now available. Limited to 500 per color and priced at $239, these fun, colorful watches were inspired by the end of summer and a desire to keep it going. Pick one up today at Windup Watch Shop. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 93: Tudor Answers our Prayers and the Bel Canto Plays On appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Hands-On: The Dennison ALD Stone Dials Collection Fratello
Longines Nov 3, 2024

Hands-On: The Dennison ALD Stone Dials Collection

Over the past year, I’ve collected watches from the ’40s and ’50s. Watches with Dennison cases are impossible to avoid when focusing on this early period. The Birmingham, England-based company was a notable case maker for Omega, Longines, and more until its closure in 1967. Today, the name returns with a very different set of […] Visit Hands-On: The Dennison ALD Stone Dials Collection to read the full article.

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Introducing – The Return of the Triton Spirotechnique Dive Watch Monochrome
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Oct 29, 2024

Introducing – The Return of the Triton Spirotechnique Dive Watch

While the Rolex Submariner, Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Omega Seamaster ruled the 1950s enthusiast and military diving scene, it was the Triton Spirotechnique in 1963 that briefly became the most expensive dive watch of its times, although never the best known. It was developed for the Spirotechnique company (Aqualung), founded by oceanographer/filmmaker/French naval officer Jacques […]

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Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Speedmasters With Straight Lugs Fratello
Tudor options out there Oct 11, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Speedmasters With Straight Lugs

Another Friday, another list! Last week, we explored five of the many vintage Tudor options out there. For this week, we decided to dip our toes into the extensive world of Omega Speedmasters. Of course, we have our series of Speedy Tuesday articles to explain everything there is to know about the famous chronograph. But […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Speedmasters With Straight Lugs to read the full article.

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The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer Gets the All-Black Treatment SJX Watches
Longines Mido’s latest Aug 20, 2024

The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer Gets the All-Black Treatment

Mido once again turns to its popular vintage remake with the all-black Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961. The latest in a considerable number of iterations of the model, the new Ocean Star stays faithful to the original in outline and features a trademark multicoloured decompression table on the dial. One of the smaller and less prominent brands in the Swatch Group stable that includes Omega and Longines, Mido’s latest is a limited edition of 1,961 pieces to celebrate the 80th anniversary of the Ocean Star model. Initial thoughts Vintage reissues are common enough they have become cliché, especially in this price segment. The Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 has arguably been iterated too often, each time in slightly different colourway, so the new version isn’t all that novel. That said, it is affordably priced – retail is US$1,480 – and boasts an original design thanks to the decompression scale on the dial. Additionally, this version with its black-PVD coated finish stands out against earlier variants with stealthy aesthetic that creates more contrast with the colourful dial. At the same time, the ETA calibre inside has higher specs than most movements in this price segment, a result of Mido’s parent also owning ETA. Stealthy thetics The stainless steel case measures 40.5 mm in diameter and 13.4 mm high, which give it the proportions of a modern watch despite the retro styling. The crystal is domed “glass box” style to mimic the PlexiGlas of the vint...

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Vintage Watches: The Tissot Antimagnetique Pointer Date 6445 Fratello
Tissot Antimagnetique Pointer Date 6445 Aug 14, 2024

Vintage Watches: The Tissot Antimagnetique Pointer Date 6445

There’s no doubt that vintage Tissot watches represent great value. I liken them to downscale Omega watches in the same way that many VWs are similar to more expensive Audis. This translates to quality movements, cases, and designs at approachable prices. Today’s Tissot Antimagnetique Pointer Date 6445 is a great example of an affordable and […] Visit Vintage Watches: The Tissot Antimagnetique Pointer Date 6445 to read the full article.

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Hands-on – The New Kudoke Infinity with a Hypnotic Aventurine Dial Monochrome
Glashütte Original followed Aug 12, 2024

Hands-on – The New Kudoke Infinity with a Hypnotic Aventurine Dial

German watchmaker Stefan Kudoke fell in love with watchmaking as a young man and cut his teeth in the complications and prototypes department of Glashütte Original, followed by stints in the New York service departments of Breguet, Blancpain and Omega. Since branching out as an independent watchmaker on the outskirts of Dresden with his brand […]

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Ollech & Wajs Recreates the Classic Caribbean 1000 Diver Worn & Wound
Blancpain Rolex Aug 6, 2024

Ollech & Wajs Recreates the Classic Caribbean 1000 Diver

Ever since humans began exploring the ocean’s depths, watch companies have been creating timepieces capable of withstanding the pressures of SCUBA diving. In the 1950s and 60s, companies like Blancpain, Rolex, and Omega raced to create watches with the greatest water resistance. However, a small collaborative brand outdid them all with a watch capable of reaching a depth of 1000 meters. It took Rolex well into the next decade before they made a watch that could go beyond that. One of those collaborators was Ollech & Wajs, and the legendary timepiece was named the Caribbean 1000. Roughly thirty years later, when the internet was still in its early stages, if you were searching the web for dive watches, there’s a good chance you came across New Old Stock (NOS) Caribbean 1000 watches by Ollech & Wajs or Jenny. In its heyday, O&W; produced nearly 10,000 watches per year. There were still quite a few unused watches available, and collectors were thrilled to have access to them. Despite barely surviving the quartz crisis of the 1970s, Albert Wajs remained in charge until 2017, when the brand was sold to Charles Le Menestrel. Since then, the brand has been revived with reimagined models from the past, such as the Caribbean. To celebrate its 60th anniversary, O&W; is launching the most authentic reproduction of the original Caribbean 1000 to date, the C-1000 A. From its short, triangle-shaped lugs, affectionately referred to as ‘Vampire fangs’ by collectors, to its narrow 12...

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A Week in Watches Ep. 86 – Flying Saucers and Heavy Metal! Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri goes Aug 4, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 86 – Flying Saucers and Heavy Metal!

In Episode 86 of A Week in Watches, we take a look at three exciting releases from the past couple of weeks. Yes, it’s summer, so things are slowing down, but there has been a surprising amount of cool stuff to keep us interested. Timex surprised us with a space-age recreation of the Enigma, a fun, stylish, and affordable timepiece. Omega plays a game of metals with their newest bronze gold (and silver) watch to celebrate the 2024 Paris Olympics. And Furlan Marri goes for a spin with a vintage case shape. Check it out below and be sure to like and subscribe. Worn & Wound invites you to an excellent event on Saturday, August 17th in Oceanside, California. We’ve teamed up with the James Brand for a summer pop-up hosted in the James Brand’s new retail location. Running from 12pm to 6pm, the pop-up will include a showcase of their signature modern, minimal everyday carry products, as well as the last 10 units of their recent automatic GMT collab with Timex. Several excellent watch brands will also attend, including Artefkt, Brew Watch Co., Belmont Watch Co., Citizen, Lōcī, and Zodiac. It’s free, open to the public, and going to be a great time. Once again thats Saturday, August 17th from 12pm to 6pm PST at the James Brand HQ – 426 S Coast Highway, Oceanside, California. We hope to see you there! The post A Week in Watches Ep. 86 – Flying Saucers and Heavy Metal! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Bulova is Seeing Red with their Latest Lunar Pilot Worn & Wound
Bulova Jul 25, 2024

Bulova is Seeing Red with their Latest Lunar Pilot

It’s officially Space Watch Season. We just saw G-SHOCK release their latest collaborative release with NASA, and now Bulova returns with a new version of their popular Lunar Pilot, this one in a “blood moon” colorway. While the Lunar Pilot doesn’t have “first watch on the moon” pedigree like the venerable Omega Speedmaster, it does have its own legitimate spacefaring history. In 1971, Dave Scott, mission commander of Apollo 15, wore a similar Bulova Chronograph when he became the seventh man to walk on the moon. Unlike the Speedmaster, which was conceived originally as a racing chronograph, the Bulova on Scott’s wrist was designed specifically for use in space, specifically for timing related to critical life support systems. The Lunar Pilot has some aesthetic similarities to the Speedmaster (in their purest form, they are both black dialed chronographs, after all) but Bulova has shown a willingness to experiment with the Lunar Pilot recently, and it now feels very much like its own thing, existing well outside the long shadow of the Speedy. This latest iteration is a good example of how Bulova uses this platform to play with color and our expectations for a sports watch like the Lunar Pilot should be.  As you can plainly see from the images in this post, what we have here is a very red version of the Lunar Pilot, with a bright red main dial and three silvered subdials at 9:00, 3:00, and 6:00. The inspiration here, according to Bulova, is a total lunar ecli...

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Business News: Swatch Groups Profit Sinks and Inventories Grow SJX Watches
Blancpain stand out Jul 16, 2024

Business News: Swatch Groups Profit Sinks and Inventories Grow

The owner of brands like Omega and Longines, the Swatch Group just announced its results for the first half of 2024. The half-year numbers crystallised a slowdown that the watch industry has felt since late 2023. Revenue was down 14.3% to CHF3.44 billion, while operating profit plunged 70% to just CHF204 million, giving the group an operating margin of just 5.9%, compared to 17.1% from a year earlier. According to Swatch, the fall in revenue was “triggered by the sharp drop in demand for luxury goods in China (including Hong Kong SAR and Macau SAR)”. At the same time, wholesale sales fell over 10%, indicating that third-party retailers are ordering less watches from the group’s brands, which in turn indicates the retailers’ pessimism for the short- and medium term. Swatch also explained the poor results by noting the group did not “make any redundancies… [and] maintaining all production capacities and not laying off qualified staff”. This was done so that “the Group [will] recover more quickly and benefit more significantly from the next upswing.” The progressively weakening positions of each of the group’s brands relative to the competition – marques like Breguet and Blancpain stand out in this regard – imply this might be overoptimistic. Notably, Swatch stated “the Swatch brand bucked the negative trend” thanks to the bestselling MoonSwatch, but this was not (and will not) be sufficient to help the rest of the group given the low value of Swat...

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Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - RJ’s Picks From Longines, Cartier, Tudor, Sinn, And Fortis Fratello
Longines Cartier Tudor Sinn Jul 4, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - RJ’s Picks From Longines, Cartier, Tudor, Sinn, And Fortis

It has already been nine months since our last series of articles about the best watches under €5,000. I had to look up my choices from last time (new watches from Longines, Tudor, and Seiko and a pre-owned pick from Omega). I still stand by those picks, but my mood is slightly different these days, […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - RJ’s Picks From Longines, Cartier, Tudor, Sinn, And Fortis to read the full article.

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Tudor Black Bay Ceramic 'Blue' – Everything You Need To Know Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Jul 3, 2024

Tudor Black Bay Ceramic 'Blue' – Everything You Need To Know

Back in February of this year, shortly after Tudor became a sponsor of the Visa Cash App RB Racing Team, driver Daniel Ricciardo was spotted wearing a curious blue dial Tudor Black Bay Ceramic – a watch that up to that point had not existed. It was a very “Daniel Craig wearing a white pre-release Speedmaster to Planet Omega in New York” moment. As it turns out, this watch became the standard timepiece in the paddock for both drivers Ricciardo and Yuki Tsunoda. But the story sort of ended there and we were left to figure that this was just a racing watch…not for public consumption. That is, until this morning, when Tudor let it be known that the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic “Blue” is now a very real thing that us very real people can very truly own. And now we have a lot more images of the watch to boot. In light of the fact that Ricciardo somewhat spoiled this launch back in February, there is not much to say that isn’t known. And similar to the white Speedmaster, we are effectively talking about a dial change here. But nonetheless, let’s get into this one. The watch takes the form of the 2021 Black Bay Ceramic release which, at the time, boasted an all-black-everything design motif from the ceramic case to the dial to the strap. The BB Ceramic comes in at 41mm with a case thickness of 14.4mm. It features the METAS-certified master chronometer MT5602-U1. What is significant about that movement is that the original BB Ceramic was the watch to debut Tudor’s for...

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Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Skyline Édition Paris Fratello
Zenith Defy Skyline Édition Paris Jul 1, 2024

Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Skyline Édition Paris

The Summer Olympics will kick off in Paris in less than a month. Zenith has created the Defy Skyline Édition Paris to help celebrate the occasion. It uses a different style of dial, which may leave potential buyers wishing that this limited edition watch wasn’t only offered in France. Omega is the first brand that […] Visit Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Skyline Édition Paris to read the full article.

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