Results for Three-Quarter Plate (3/4-Platine)

F Fratello

Fratello

Sinn 103 St Ty Hd Feb 17, 2024

Introducing: The Limited-Edition Sinn 103 St Ty Hd - A Stylized, Hand-Wound Version Of A Classic

The Sinn 103 is one of the oldest models in the brand’s catalog. It is a classic pilot’s chronograph that has been around since the 1960s. Today, the 103 is equipped with an automatic movement. However, some early versions came with hand-wound calibers. This latest limited edition follows that template. Let’s have a closer look. […] Visit Introducing: The Limited-Edition Sinn 103 St Ty Hd - A Stylized, Hand-Wound Version Of A Classic to read the full article.

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Worn & Wound

Feb 13, 2024

Announcing 2024 Windup Watch Fairs – New Venues, New Partners, Same Approachable Setting for Enthusiasts

Since 2015, the Windup Watch Fair has attracted watch enthusiasts from all walks of life to celebrate their passion and discover new brands and products. Over the last three years, the Windup Watch Fair has become one of the world’s largest consumer-facing watch events, serving as a powerful platform for brands and enthusiasts to come together in a one-of-a-kind setting. In 2024, this evolution continues with three shows, two new venues, and some new partnerships that will further enhance your Windup experience. Windup Watch Fair San Francisco May 3 – 5, 2024 Fort Mason – Gateway Pavillion San Francisco, CA We are thrilled to be returning to San Francisco, in an even more impactful way than ever. The Windup Watch Fair will be one of the first events in the newly reopened Gateway Pavillion on Pier 2 at the Fort Mason Center for Arts & Culture. With stunning views of The Golden Gate Bridge, this architectural renovation is an idyllic spot to gather, meet new brands, try new products, and experience enthusiasm together. It comes complete with breakout rooms for live podcasts, special guest speakers, and enthusiast group meetups. You won’t want to miss this iconic San Francisco experience. Windup Watch Fair Chicago July 12-14, 2024 Venue West Chicago, IL We’ll return to our beloved Venue West for our Chicago Fair in the West Loop neighborhood of the Windy City. Once again, we’ll bring brands from around the world to share their wares and tares. With more live podca...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Citizen Unveils New Attesa Hakuto-R Feb 13, 2024

Citizen Unveils New Attesa Hakuto-R References Inspired by the Moon

The moon holds a special place in the watch world. It represents a certain sense of adventure, the furthest place man has ever visited outside of our world. The Omega Speedmaster and the Bulova Lunar Pilot may be the only watches that can claim to have actually visited the lunar surface, but countless other watches pay tribute to Earth’s only natural satellite. Citizen represents one of the few brands with lunar watches that also have some real space exploration cred to boot, and its new limited edition Attesa models continue the watchmaker’s partnership with Hakuto-R, a Japanese lunar exploration mission. Citizen has released three new Attesa Hakuto-R models in anticipation of the program’s latest attempt at an unmanned mission, which will occur later this year. When the lunar lander touches down on the moon’s surface, it’ll be doing so with Citizen’s proprietary Super Titanium as one of the components. That same titanium was used to make the cases of the latest Attesa Hakuto-R watches. With colorful dials that evoke the moon’s surface, the new Attesas are immediately eye-catching. Underneath the dials, the pieces are powered by the Citizen 4950 Eco-Drive movement, which gives the watches an impressive battery life thanks to their ability to charge from any natural or artificial light. The new models all also feature Eco-Drive Atomic Timekeeping, which uses radio transmitters to automatically update the time and date if any time is ever gained or lost. One o...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Feb 13, 2024

[VIDEO] Our Favorite Tech Pouches from Bellroy and Peak Design

The Worn & Wound team travels a lot, and whether it’s a quick trip on the Acela or a few weeks in Switzerland, proper packing of our various tech is absolutely essential. Wherever we go, we’re essentially carrying a mobile office with us, uniquely focused on covering the watch world in words, photographs, and video. Luckily, there are a number of packing solutions that make staying connected simple, predictable, and, perhaps most importantly, surprisingly compact.  In this video, Kat Shoulders and Zach Kazan unload their tech packs, showing you what they bring on a typical trip to our Brooklyn headquarters, and how they pack it. For Zach, the Peak Design Tech Pouch is his go-to pack to handle the myriad chargers, cables, pens, notebooks, and other odds and ends that help him stay productive on the train, in the office, or wherever he might find himself. The accordion style pack can hold a surprising amount of gear, and it fits perfectly in the bottom of his bag, always at the ready.  Kat’s choice for packing her tech is the Bellroy x Carryology Tech Kit, a similar pouch that takes a slightly different approach. It opens and lays flat, and with a bright orange lining, really lets you see everything clearly at a glance. Kat’s photography focused gear includes extra solid state storage, and her pack even has room for a watch. Let us know in the comments what your preferred tech focused packing solution is, and if there’s any additional gear we should be thinking a...

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F Fratello

Fratello

Feb 12, 2024

Five Analog Quartz Watches That Prove The Snobs Wrong

As watch lovers, we tend to be drawn to mechanical movements. There is something mysterious about the dozens of springs, wheels, pinions, jewels, screws, and plates that conspire to unwind a mainspring and turn its stored tension into a precise display of the time. I think the allure is in the fact that it is […] Visit Five Analog Quartz Watches That Prove The Snobs Wrong to read the full article.

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Jenni Elle May 8, 2021

A CARTIER Review

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

TAG Heuer uses Feb 9, 2024

More New Watches Celebrating the Year of the Dragon

This Chinese zodiac assigns an animal to represent each lunar new year, cycling through the 12 animals who according to myth came down from heaven to help the Chinese people celebrate the spring. This year is the year of the dragon, which promises to bring good fortune and strength-and, of course, year of the dragon special edition watches. Worn & Wound has already covered some of the best ones out there, but one article (and even two) isn’t enough to cover them all. The IWC Portugieser Chronograph might be the most beautiful year of the dragon watch to come out thus far. The wine colored dial with gold numerals and hands that just ooze luxury, and pays tribute to the Chinese new year on its movement, which features an intricately carved gold dragon rotor. The watch comes with a black calfskin strap, but the rubber strap in a wine that matches the dial provides a stunning complement. IWC has done a few Chinese new year models in the past-this one is far and away the best. The brand’s year of the rabbit had a similar wine and gold coloring, but lacked a two-subdial chronograph complication like the year of the dragon. 2022’s year of the tiger was a chronograph but as a three-subdial chronograph with day and date windows, the dial just feels crowded and lacks the more elegant simplicity of this year’s model. And the metal work on the dragon rotor blows away the last two years’ animal rotors. Tag Heuer uses the inverse color scheme of the special edition Portugi...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Feb 5, 2024

Hands-On: the Haim Legacy Automatic Collection

Once a small brand has gained some traction, they usually do one of two things: dig deep into a hero product, or continue to delve into their brand ethos to create new things. Haim Watch Company seems to be steadfastly in the latter category. Following initial releases like the L2 and the Descent which featured design codes that clearly linked them together, one would be forgiven for assuming they’d mine these models for all they’re worth. But instead, the Chicago-based brand is building new styles that only expand the definition of what a Haim watch can be. Their latest collection is their Legacy Automatic. Coming in three colorways, this line-up shows a break from the previous generations of Haim watches and nods at real growth towards higher-quality, and more eye-catching designs. Compare, for example, the original Legacy collection to the Legacy Automatic. While the former has a fairly inconspicuous charm to it, you can begin to see that Haim is ready to cement itself as a brand that can take risks and maintain its mission statement as a microbrand that brings a luxury feel to a relatively affordable price point.  The Legacy Automatic references boast a lot of firsts for the brand, so I’d like to start with those as a sort of headliner for the collection. For one, it’s the first time and date-only design within the Legacy line-up. Not only that, but it’s Haim’s first custom designed caliber (more on what that really means soon) and is the first watch in Ha...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Ulysse Nardin Freak – Feb 2, 2024

The Ulysse Nardin Freak – The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part I

Novel ways of telling the time or exhibiting the movement have long been the focus of the avant-garde horologists. Independent watchmakers like Ressence or Urwerk have built their brands on doing away with conventional hands. Such idiosyncratic approaches to watchmaking challenge the traditions of horology, making for a more interesting horological landscape. Even before Urwerk introduced the pioneering three-dimensional cubic hour display in 2005, there was the Ulysse Nardin Freak. Launched in 2001, the Freak literally changed the face of watchmaking by transposing the movement into the dial. Two decades after its launch, the Freak is still regarded as a landmark for its audacity, from both aesthetic and technical perspective. [This story covers the origins of the Freak, from its conception to realisation, as well as its distinguishing characteristics, namely the inventive movement construction and unique escapement. Part II deals with the evolution of the unique, high-performance escapement, while Part III details the history of silicium, the proprietary Ulysse Nardin silicium hairspring, and the patented Grinder rotor.] The origins The beginning of the Freak lay in 1997, when Carole Forestier-Kasapi, then a young and talented movement designer who only recently graduated from technical college, won the Prix de la Fondation Abraham-Louis Breguet, a contest conceived to mark A.-L. Breguet’s 250th birthday that sought to recognise watchmaking ingenuity. Now the head of m...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

TAG Heuer Introduces Feb 2, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces a Smaller Aquaracer Solargraph

Two years ago, TAG Heuer introduced a solar powered version of their ever-popular Aquaracer dive watch called the Solargraph. It was quite a hit and last year they brought out a version in media-blasted titanium, which knocked Kat Shoulders’ socks off at LVMH Watch Week 2023. It just so happens to be LVMH Watch Week 2024 and TAG Heuer is introducing 5 new Solargraph models, but they might not be what you’d think. Instead of new case materials (these are all stainless steel) what they have done is shrunk the diameter down to 34mm. Making these new Aquaracer Solargraphs a mid-size watch that will fit just about everyone, but will be particularly appealing to anyone with smaller wrists who might feel ignored by “small” divers starting at 38mm and ballooning from there. They have also brought back a design feature which was removed from the Aquaracer line when they redesigned them some years ago: the venerable rider tabs. They’ve been executed quite tastefully here, with their scalloped trapezoidal shape on a completely polished bezel.  There are 5 different configurations of the new smaller Solargraph, all of which come on a bracelet, with a solid twin-trigger clasp. The first features a green dial (above), with an attractive circular texture and printing that seems to float above it. TAG Heuer calls this polar blue-themed. Even the applied indices appear to be hovering above the dial. Next up are three models with mother-of-pearl dials. One with a diamond bezel, o...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Seiko GMT’s Jan 31, 2024

Two New Seiko GMT’s and a Vintage Throwback Hit the Windup Watch Shop

Ask any watch collector worth their salt about their entry into watch collecting, and you’ll hear “Seiko 5” more often than not. Then ask them about which Seiko lines they enjoy now, and you’ll hear (if not the same answer) Seiko Prospex. As two of Seiko’s more accessible lines, the Seiko 5 and Prospex collections are more than just gateways – they represent the core of the Japanese brand’s ethos: reliability, excellence, and sportiness. This week we are proud to introduce not one, not two, but three new Seiko references into the Windup Watch Shop. Two hail from the Prospex Alpinist line, and the last is a standalone retro-inspired hit. Here is your Chronicle highlighting the Seiko Alpinist GMTs, models SPB377 and SPB379, and the Seiko SPRK17. As always, we invite you to join our rewards program to earn points with every purchase. Ask any watch collector worth their salt about their entry into watch collecting, and you’ll hear “Seiko 5” more often than not. Then ask them about which Seiko lines they enjoy now, and you’ll hear (if not the same answer) Seiko Prospex. As two of Seiko’s more accessible lines, the Seiko 5 and Prospex collections are more than just gateways – they represent the core of the Japanese brand’s ethos: reliability, excellence, and sportiness. This week we are proud to introduce not one, not two, but three new Seiko references into the Windup Watch Shop. Two hail from the Prospex Alpinist line, and the last is a standalone r...

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Hodinkee May 8, 2021

My Watch Story: A Road Trip Through Europe and A Rolex Oyster Perpetual by Ian Nater

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Jan 31, 2024

Review: the Findeisen NauticMaster

If you are not already following @mikestuffler on Instagram, then you probably should. He is a watchuseek.com moderator emeritus and talks nearly exclusively about German watches. It is through one of his 7000+ posts that I discovered the brand, Findeisen. Until then, I had never heard of them, despite having been around since 2017. They began with a traditional three-hand dressy sports watch and in 2021 they launched the F-1253 diver. With its distinct sawtooth bezel, this is the one that caught my attention. New for 2023-24 are new vibrant dial colors and a polished DLC-coated bezel inlay.  In for review are two of their NauticMaster divers, a black one with the new bezel inlay and a blue one without. They also have white or green dials, available with either bezel option and your choice of right or left side crown positions. I must admit, I did not know what to expect when they were shipped over. After a few years of admiring these online, I was very excited to get my mitts on these in “real-life.” The case measures 41.5mm in diameter, with a thickness of 12.5mm, a lug-to-lug measurement of 47mm and an end-link to end-link length of 53.5mm. I read somewhere that if the tip of the male end link sits lower than where the spring bar attaches to the case, the latter measurement is not as pronounced. I have come to believe that this is true. On my 7.5” wrist, it feels very well balanced and not too wide, not exceeding the surface of my wrist at either end. I also took...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Jan 30, 2024

40 Green Dial Watches, From Entry-Level to Luxury

For many watch brands, green dials have become less of a niche novelty and more of an essential option, often even a go-to variation for their most popular models. After several years of steadily trending in the enthusiast community, green-dial watches can currently be found in collections that range from sporty to military to dressy, in a verdant rainbow of color tones, from mint green to forest green to dark olive green and various shades in between. Here's a selection of 40 green-dial watches that have caught our eye lately, in ascending order of price, many of which can be purchased right here on TeddyBaldassarre.com. Tissot PRX Quartz Mint Price: $375, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 10.5mm, Lug to Lug: 44.6mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 100m, Movement: Quartz ETA F06.115  Like the self-winding Powermatic 80 version spotlighted below, this quartz-driven model in Tissot’s PRX series features the tapering tonneau-style case and integrated metal bracelet that distinguished its predecessor from the 1970s. The pastel mint-green dial color is a recent debut in the collection, and has already made quite the splash with collectors who appreciate its eye-catching, playful aesthetic combined with its very accessible price point - the latter a product of the watch’s quartz movement, the Swiss-made ETA F016.115, which powers the simple three-handed time display and date indication at 3 o’clock. Tissot eventually offering this vibrant colorway in an automatic mo...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Breitling Has You Covered Jan 29, 2024

If You’re Looking for a Big, Gold, Super Bowl Themed Chronograph, Breitling Has You Covered

In partnership with longtime brand ambassador Boomer Esiason, Breitling is launching an all-new Chronomat B01 42 Super Bowl LVIII Edition, with proceeds to benefit the Boomer Esiason Foundation. Boomer and his wife Cheryl established this foundation when they learned of their son Gunnar’s diagnosis of cystic fibrosis in 1993. It is dedicated to being the greatest enemy of this disease and in the past three decades it has contributed crucial financial backing in pursuing a future where all impacted by CF can savor life devoid of its symptoms. Having played in the NFL from 1984 to 1997, Boomer’s accolades on the gridiron include the NFL MVP award in 1998, NFL Man of the Year in 1995, First-team All-Pro in 1988 and Pro Bowl in 1986, 1988, 1989 and 1993. He was also awarded the Cincinnati Bengals Ring of Honor. Today Boomer can be found on The NFL Today on CBS, where he appears as anl analyst. His partnership with Breitling dates to 1995..  What sets this Breitling Chronomat apart from the standard line is the Super Bowl LVIII logo on the case back and its limited nature – there are just 58 individually numbered pieces. This 42mm chronograph is entirely made of 18 karat red gold, with a dark blue dial and black subdials. It will come on either a matching 18 karat red gold Rouleaux bracelet or black Rouleaux inspired rubber strap. Powering this piece is Breitling’s in-house B01 chronograph movement, which is COSC certified, as are all Breitling watches, and has a power...

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SJX Watches

Richard Mille Jan 23, 2024

Roger Dubuis Introduces the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon

The latest iteration of Roger Dubuis’ signature model is the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon. A limited edition conceived for the Chinese Lunar Near Year, the watch features an stylised dragon composed of 27 brass plates that integrate the mythical creature into the bridges of the open-worked movement. Initial thoughts Best known for ultra-contemporary, open-worked calibres, Roger Dubuis (RD) specialises in extravagant designs, including the recent Knights of the Round Table. The Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillion is a prime example of what the brand does best. In contrast to most dragon-themed watches that are either traditional or whimsical, the Excalibur Dragon portrays the dragon in a modern, almost abstract manner. Although the watch is big and bold, attention has been paid to the finer details. The movement is open-worked in typical RD fashion and finished to Poinçon de Genève standards, which means bevelled edges, chambered flanks, and polished pins, amongst other things. And while the pronounced styling might not be for everyone, the Excalibur Dragon is actually more wearable than the typical complicated RD watch. At 42 mm in diameter and a bit over 12 mm high, it is moderately sized relative to much of the brand’s offerings. At CHF195,000, the Excalibur Dragon sits in between its most obvious comparables on the price spectrum, more affordable than Richard Mille and pricier than Hublot. The movement inside is arguably better executed than those of its rivals, t...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Christopher Ward Bel Canto Christopher Ward Jan 18, 2024

British Watchmakers’ Day is Coming, Along with a Very Limited Christopher Ward Bel Canto

Christopher Ward, a founding brand of the Alliance of British Watch and Clockmakers, is gearing up for a significant presence at the British Watchmakers’ Day on March 9th, 2024, hosted at Lindley Hall in London. The focal point of their participation is the exclusive release of the Bel Canto 9324, a limited edition of only 10 pieces, that will be auctioned off using a raffle system during the event.  What makes this particular model unique is two-fold. The first being a laser-etched Union Jack on its platine, which was then given a deep blue color treatment with elaborate decorative touches, including polishing as well as Clous de Paris and Finque guilloche patterns. The second being that this is the first time Roman numerals have been used on a Bel Canto.  All profits generated from the sale of these exclusive timepieces will be directly donated to The Alliance of British Watch and Clockmakers.  British Watchmakers’ Day serves as a platform to showcase the finest in British horology. Attendees can anticipate exploring the latest releases from renowned brands, engaging with the creators behind these timepieces, and gaining valuable insights into the artistry and innovation that defines the British watchmaking landscape. In addition to Christopher Ward, many of the brands we cover here on Worn & Wound will be in attendance, including Fears, Farer, and Studio Underd0g. You can find out more about British Watchmakers’ Day here. And if you can’t make it, watch this ...

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Hodinkee May 8, 2021

My Watch Story: A Friendship Through Watches by Corey Cavalieri

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SJX Watches

Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 Twenty twenty-one Jan 15, 2024

In-Depth: The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001

Twenty twenty-one was an important year for Grand Seiko as it saw the introduction of the brand’s latest-generation mechanical movement, the cal. 9SA5. A modern movement with attractive aesthetic and proprietary escapement, the cal. 9SA5 debuted in the Heritage “White Birch” SLGH005. But Grand Seiko didn’t stop there. Building upon the flagship calibre, Grand Seiko created the cal. 9SC5 and launched the Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001. A large, sporty watch but entirely in lightweight titanium, the Tentagraph is a milestone for Grand Seiko (GS) as the brand’s first-ever mechanical chronograph. “Tentagraph” is self-explanatory, an acronym outlining the key features of the watch and cal. 9SC5 within: TEN beats per second, Three-day power reserve, Automatic winding, and chronoGRAPH. Initial thoughts The Tentagraph has all the tactile features expected in a modern, high-spec sports chronograph, namely substantial proportions and crisp, smooth pusher action. As expected for GS, it boasts high quality finishing inside and out, with the case in particular having category-leading finishing and detailing. And from a technical perspective, it is notable for being the high-frequency chronograph with the longest power reserve on the market – the balance runs at 36,000 beats per hour, or 5 Hz, and the power reserve is 72 hours, or three days. Aesthetically, the Tentagraph is refreshingly modern. It retains the characteristic GS design, but tweaked to accentuate the sport...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Nomos evoke Dec 27, 2023

Nomos evoke a warm autumn with the new Club Sport Neomatik 39 Tabac, Ember and Smoke

When thinking of Nomos, the first thing that comes to mind is clean, studied designs that follow the Bauhaus method. At times, these break free of their block colour schemes and get a lick of, say, vibrant pink, but rarely would I describe Nomos’ design choices as sultry. The three new Club Sport Neomatik 39 … ContinuedThe post Nomos evoke a warm autumn with the new Club Sport Neomatik 39 Tabac, Ember and Smoke appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Tissot  and score a free Italian Dec 18, 2023

Special Windup Watch Shop Sales This Week

As holiday shopping continues to ramp up and reach its fever pitch, we want to make it as easy as possible for you to find deals and discover even more value here at the Windup Watch Shop. To that end, we will be running additional promotions this week, December 18-22, on virtually every product category in the Shop. Furthermore, there are special sales running all three days: Purchase any Tissot and score a free Italian strap; Pick up a Paulin watch and receive a free Model 2 Premium strap; We’ll throw in a pair of Randolph glasses with any purchase of the new Benrus Ultra Deep. And lastly, Free Priority Domestic Shipping. We are excited to offer these, and all the specials highlighted below, as gifts to our Windup Watch Shop community.   As holiday shopping continues to ramp up and reach its fever pitch, we want to make it as easy as possible for you to find deals and discover even more value here at the Windup Watch Shop. To that end, we will be running additional promotions this week, December 18-22, on virtually every product category in the Shop. Furthermore, there are special sales running all three days: Purchase any Tissot and score a free Italian strap; Pick up a Paulin watch and receive a free Model 2 Premium strap; We’ll throw in a pair of Randolph glasses with any purchase of the new Benrus Ultra Deep. And lastly, Free Priority Domestic Shipping. We are excited to offer these, and all the specials highlighted below, as gifts to our W...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Havid Nagan Dec 14, 2023

The Sophomore Effort from Indie Havid Nagan Modernizes a Classic Complication

In the sea of vintage-inspired, sport-watch focused microbrands – with which there is nothing wrong, of course – are a select few brands who seem to have stumbled upon an aesthetic that is uniquely theirs. One such example is Havid Nagan whose 2021 debut model was aptly named HN00. We were impressed with it and covered it here, and today Havid Nagan is back with the follow-up to its opening shot: Introducing the HN01 Lucine, Havid Nagan’s interpretation of, and ode to, the moonphase. So what changed and what hasn’t? The closest thing the two watches share are their cases: The HN01 titanium cushion-esque case keeps the same 40.2mm diameter as its predecessor but has slimmed down from 11.6mm thick to only 10.2mm. Its profile has also been massaged slightly to better accentuate its profile. This is even more impressive when you consider the effort required to fit an entirely new complication module inside. The HN01 Lucine’s powertrain is a Chronode base movement that has been heavily modified to include a moonphase module (which itself has been improved to err only one day from every 2.5 years to every 11.6 years). The module itself, which displays the moon at 12 o’clock, contains two photorealistic moons that float on a “mystery” style transparent sapphire wheel. Havid Nagan has also taken it upon themselves to decorate the movement with hand-applied anglage and additional perlage clouds on the mainplate (both sides) and skeletonized bridges. There is also a...

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SJX Watches

Audemars Piguet cal 4401/4409 Dec 12, 2023

Insight: The Breguet Cal. 728 of the Type XX Chronograph

With roots in 1950s French military-issue chronographs, the modern-day Type XX Chronographe was originally released in the mid-1990s and is now’s trademark pilot’s chronograph – and also the brand’s entry-level complication. Originally utilising Lemania-based movement in prior generations, the Type XX was entirely revamped, inside and out, with the unveiling of the Type XX Chronograph 2057 and 2067 earlier this year. While the aesthetics have been revised, the most notable upgrade in the new-generation Type XX is a brand-new movement, the cal. 728. The cal. 728 is a high-frequency movement running at 36,000 beats per hour that employs a novel patent-pending flying mechanism as well as an inventive reset system. The release of a completely new, in-house chronograph movement is uncommon, especially one with novel innovations that went under the radar. In fact, the cal. 728 is arguably one of the most sophisticated and advanced modern-day chronograph movements, putting it alongside the Audemars Piguet cal. 4401/4409 and Rolex cal. 4131. As a result, the cal. 728 deserves a closer look. Controlled return The cal. 728 is actually two related movements: the cal. 728 is an automatic, flyback-chronograph movement with three registers for elapsed seconds, minutes, and hours that is inside the three-counter Type XX ref. 2067, while the cal. 7281 is a two-counter version of the calibre found in the military-inspired Type XX ref. 2057. The most novel component of the cal. 728 ...

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Teddy Baldassarre May 8, 2021

The Best Entry-Level Flieger Watch: Laco Pilot Watch Augsburg Review (Type A)

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D Deployant

Deployant

Dec 9, 2023

Dear Santa: Chester Makes His Christmas Wishlist for 2023

It’s the jolly time of the year when we get our hands on presents and wishful thinking. In the coming articles, our writers share their personal grails for the year end and their Christmas Wishlist. To start us off, here are three timepieces from Chester, befitting the wishfulness of the season.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Universal Genève Dec 6, 2023

The Universal Genève Polerouter Gets the Reference Treatment in a Gorgeous New Book Covering the Enormous Breadth of the Collection

Over the last several years, something has happened to the humble Universal Geneve Polerouter. This watch, once a go-to recommendation for collector’s looking to get their feet wet in the world of vintage, has risen in stature, value, and overall name recognition as the watch market has expanded. As with any niche hobby that, over time, approaches the mainstream, hidden gems become less hidden. The Polerouter, while not a household name like the Speedmaster or Submariner, is not nearly as under the radar as it used to be.  While those of us who have been around this stuff for years might mourn the availability of great examples of the Polerouter on the cheap, it’s hard not to be happy that people are discovering and appreciating the watch. As a gateway to the hobby, and vintage specifically, it’s a collection that could lead a curious collector down any number of paths, each one rewarding in a different way. That’s because there are so many ways to approach the Polerouter: as a creation from the mind of the biggest name in the history of watch design, as an elegant sports watch that helped set a template for some of the most popular watches of the current era, and as an uncommon mechanical triumph. And, of course, it’s still a relatively accessible piece of a key part of watch history, and a great representation of Universal Geneve, a brand that exists today as a time capsule.  Perhaps one of the clearest signals that the Polerouter has crossed a threshold of s...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Oak & Oscar Dec 6, 2023

Oak & Oscar’s New Limited Edition is the Perfect Match for Bourbon Lovers

If you’ve met Chase Fancher, founder of Oak & Oscar, you probably know that he’s something of a bourbon enthusiast. I’m not saying you’ll be plied with the stuff if you come hang out at his booth at a Windup, but I’m not saying that’s definitively off the table, either. So it wasn’t a huge surprise when news came across the transom that Oak & Oscar’s latest limited edition is a thoughtful collaboration with FEW Spirits, whose founder and master distiller Paul Hletko is a personal friend of Chase’s. The new watch, a variation on Oak & Oscar’s popular Olmsted, the brand’s 38mm field watch, has plenty of little Easter eggs for bourbon lovers, but is also just a great looking execution of what has become a signature referenced.  Those Easter eggs are threefold. First, the dial the color of the Olmsted FEW is a dark salmon tone lifted directly from FEW’s own color palette. It should be immediately recognizable to fans of the FEW spirits, but is also an altogether appealing shade in its own right, and represents Oak & Oscar’s first attempt at a salmon dial, a color that has taken off in popularity (and proven to be highly versatile in a huge variety of watches) over the last few years. Second, and this is somewhat standard on these types of collaborations, the FEW logo is displayed near the 6:00 position. Besides the FEW and Oak & Oscar branding, the dial is quite clean, without any excess text, and lets the color shine (but, not literally, because it...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Nov 30, 2023

Arcanaut’s New “Havender” and “Klint” Dials Make Use of Unexpected Materials to Great Effect

We’re nearing the end of the year, and being the type of person who is already keenly interested in list making as a form of assessment, I’ve naturally started to think about the watches, brands, and new releases that have left the biggest mark in 2023. For me personally, there probably isn’t a more important release or addition to my own collection than the Arcanaut Arc II Fordite, a watch I’ve made no secret of my admiration for many times over. Arcanaut looms large for me as an independent brand that is accessible, contemporary in their aesthetic, and willing to experiment, all things I put a high value on when it comes to new watches. Their latest releases are something of an extension of the D’Arc Matter Colors Collection we told you about a few months ago, and lean heavily into the brand’s commitment to experimenting with materials in new and interesting ways.  First up is the Havender, which takes the Arc II platform and gives it a dial in a gorgeous shade of light purple. But this isn’t simply a coat of paint on a base dial – according to Arcanaut, the Havender represents the brand’s most ambitious composite dial to date. The source of the dial and its unique color comes from a surprising place: Scandinavian mussel shells. Part of the ethos of the Arcanaut brand is to source components locally whenever possible, and brand co-owner James Thompson saw an interesting opportunity via a mussel farm located close to Aracanaut’s headquarters.  Once a...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Audemars Piguet Nov 29, 2023

Interview: Hind Seddiqi, Director General of Dubai Watch Week

Having began as a small-scale and mostly regional event in 2015 – I was there and thought it would become important one day – Dubai Watch Week (DWW) has since grown into an expansive horological extravaganza with an international audience. With some 23,000 visitors, a 42% increase over the 2021 event, this year’s DWW is the biggest to date. Sixty-three brands took part, ranging from giants like Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Chanel, to independent watchmakers like F.P. Journe, Rexhep Rexhepi, and H. Moser & Cie. Some brands even launched all-new products at DWW. MB&F;, for instance, launched its headline creation for the year, the HM11, at the event. As Director General of DWW, Hind Seddiqi is one of the individuals who makes DWW possible. We discussed with her vision for DWW, ranging from its emphasis on independent watchmaking to the future of horological education in the region, which includes a WOSTEP watchmaking academy in Dubai. The interview was edited for length and clarity. The MB&F; HM11, one of the watches launched during DWW SJX: I remember the first Dubai Watch Week was inside the mall. Now it’s a separate setup that’s impressive. And even though it’s grown, I like the fact that you retain all the independents. Hind Seddiqi (HS): [Indpendents are] extremely important and if you enter into the [fair] in the afternoons you will see they’re the ones who are the busiest with customers wanting to meet the watchmakers. SJX: How do the independents relate to...

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Time+Tide May 8, 2020

Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 2 – the Spitfire collection

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