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Time+Tide
Andrew had the extraordinary privilege of spending a day inside the A Lange & Söhne manufacture with CEO Wilhelm Schmid.The post Inside the A. Lange & Söhne manufacture: “Where perfection meets beautiful imperfection” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
I wrote this article after hearing a 1977 punk/rock song on the radio and reading an introduction to a new watch. The song “No More Heroes” from British band The Stranglers asks, “Whatever happened to all the heroes? All the Shakespearoes?” The song was still playing in my head when I read an introductory article […] Visit Watch Brands Of Yesteryear: Whatever Happened To The Heroes? to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
We put COSC, METAS, Rolex, Grand Seiko, and Glashütte chronometers to the test. Here’s what certification actually means on the wrist.
Worn & Wound
After a banner year with successful fairs in Dallas, San Francisco, and Chicago, the Windup Watch Fair is returning home to New York City for the final stop of its 10th anniversary tour. From Friday, October 17th through Sunday, October 19th, we’ll once again take over Center415 in Midtown Manhattan for what promises to be our biggest and best Windup yet. Here are the critical details: Center415 on 5th Avenue Between 37th and 38th Streets (415 Fifth Ave) Friday, October 17: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, October 18: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, October 19: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public No registration necessary Last year, more than 10,000 enthusiasts came through the doors, and this year we’re expecting even more. Over 140 brands from around the world will be on hand, showcasing watches, gear, and everyday carry essentials. From fresh independents to established names, there will be something for every collector, enthusiast, and curious passerby to discover. We’re thrilled to welcome back Bulova, Christopher Ward, Oris, and Shinola as returning Lead Sponsors-and equally excited to announce Bremont as the fifth Lead Sponsor, making their Windup debut. Other first timers to any Windup include MB & F’s M.A.D.Editions, Arken, Clemence, CIGA Design, and more. Beyond the show floor, Windup NYC is expanding its experiences like never before. The EDC Expo presented by NOMATIC returns, spotlighting innovative everyday carry alongside the watch brands. Miyota joins as our first...
Monochrome
A discreet but rather productive watch brand, Delma is also one with a long track record, as the brand celebrated last year its 100th anniversary. For what is our concern of the day, Delma has made a name for itself in recent years with its rather impressive offering in the field of dive watches, mixing […]
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Teddy Baldassarre
The Breitling Chronomat traces its most emblematic design elements back to the relatively recent year of 1984, but the model’s roots reach much further back, to the dawn of Breitling’s role as a leading innovator of watches for pilots. On the way to becoming one of the watch world’s iconic chronograph wristwatches, the Chronomat has also been the host model for some of the most significant innovations in movement technology. Today, it remains one of Breitling’s flagship models, with an array of sizes, materials, colorways, and complications for men and ladies alike. Here is the story of the Breitling Chronomat, from its groundbreaking origins to its 21st Century revival. The Original Chronomat (1941) Breitling’s long and storied history in the arena of aviation begins in 1938, shortly before the start of World War II, with the founding of the Huit Aviation Department by third-generation company chairman Willy Breitling. Taking its numerical name “huit” from the eight-day power reserve offered by Breitling’s watches and clocks - an innovation pioneered by Willy’s grandfather Léon Breitling - the Huit Aviation Department was devoted to making the most precise and robust onboard timekeepers for the cockpits of military planes. Two years later, Breitling unveiled a world’s-first invention destined to make a historical impact on both watchmaking and piloting: the first timepiece equipped with a logarithmic scale on its rotating bezel that could be u...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Rolex Daytona is a tricky watch to discuss these days. It’s difficult to separate the watch itself from its status as a barometer to the health of the entire second-hand market — a position that the watch itself surely never asked to be put into. Everyone has an opinion on the Daytona, and these days, those opinions seem to lean more negative due mostly to what it has come to represent. As such, it rarely gets a fair crack at an honest judgment. In fact, it’s a watch I generally shy away from discussing publicly. But I’ve always liked the Daytona, and I take pleasure in wearing mine in non-watch-enthusiast environments. That’s because, behind all the speculation and hype culture, there’s a genuinely good sports watch that’s almost never seen as such. After a year of owning the reference 126500 Rolex Daytona Panda dial introduced in 2023, and amidst a cooling second-hand market, I think it’s time to change that. Let’s start off by confronting the reality of this watch. The MSRP of the steel Daytona Reference 126500 in either black or white dial (dark or light, in Rolex parlance) is $16,000. The same watches trade for between $27,000 and $32,000 in the open market. This is a serious discrepancy, but it does seem to have stabilized from a high point in 2021. In fact, it seems to be slowly coming down, but not nearly to a price that the watch merits, if you ask me. At its MSRP, the Daytona is a legitimately great watch, but only just. At ~$30,000, this ...
Fratello
We are no strangers to the Sternglas Hamburg collection. The brand’s popular model, named after its hometown, is available in various versions powered by quartz or mechanical calibers. Additionally, the Sternglas Hamburg is available as a time-and-date model or a chronograph. The German brand now introduces two top-of-the-line models that feature slimmer cases, an upgraded […] Visit Sternglas Introduces The Hamburg Pro Automatik In Two Variants to read the full article.
Deployant
Casio released an interesting addition to their Casioak styled collection which is designed to be worn as a ring. I bought one and here are my impressions.
Time+Tide
Jamie joined Mido in Thailand's bustling capital this week for the launch of the new Multifort TV Chronograph.The post Breaking a sweat in Bangkok with Mido appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
With a swivelling case and unadorned back, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso has long served as a canvas for miniature enamelling (or double-faced complications). The Reverso Tribute Enamel “Shahnameh” is a fine example of the art, which is almost synonymous with Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC), one of the first brands to set up an in-house enamel workshop. Originally invented as a watch for polo players – the reversible case is meant to protect the crystal – the Reverso goes back to the historical origins of the game with this set. The quartet is inspired by scenes from Shahnameh, an epic poem written one thousand years ago that recounts the origins of the Persian Empire, and also depicts the ancient game invented by Persians that is today known as polo. Specifically, the four watches reproduce illustrations from the Shahnameh commissioned by Shah Tahmasp, the second ruler of the Safavid dynasty, in the early 16th century. The four piece set comprised of (from left) ‘Siyavush Plays Polo before Afrasiyab’; ‘Faridun Tests His Sons’; ‘Saam Comes to Mount Alburz’; and ‘Rustam Pursues Akvan’. Image – Jaeger-LeCoultre Initial thoughts JLC has long reproduced historical art on the Reverso – including Monet’s Venice series of paintings last year – but the artwork was often Western or East Asian, perhaps reflecting the watchmaker’s biggest markets. The “Shahnameh” set, on the other hand, reproduces scenes from a piece of art that might be less well known in...
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko and Citizen are the two undisputed titans among Japanese watch brands, known and admired worldwide for their technical excellence, design acumen, and legendary price-to-value ratio, not to mention the role that both brands have played in the technological and cultural evolution of watchmaking in general. And while these world-renowned companies have been fierce competitors from the beginning, they have a lot in common as well. Here we present a side-by-side comparison of Seiko vs. Citizen, starting with their earliest days and concluding with an overview of what each brand is doing today. Seiko vs. Citizen: Origins of Two Japanese Watch Pioneers With its very high-tech lineup and avant-garde designs, one might be inclined to think Citizen Watch Company is a relatively new player on the worldwide watch scene, but one would be mistaken. The company today known as Citizen was founded in 1918 by Kamakechi Yamazaki as the Shokosha Watch Research Institute. The name “Citizen” first appeared on the dial of a pocket watch that Shokosha produced in 1924; it is believed to have been suggested by Yamazaki’s close friend Shinpei Goto, then the mayor of Tokyo, who believed such a watch should be universally appealing and accessible to all “citizens” of Japan. Shokosha merged with the Schmid company, a Japan-based manufacturing firm founded by expatriate Swiss watchmaker Rodolphe Schmid, in 1930 to become Citizen. Joining the expertise of Shokosha’s Japanese watchm...
Worn & Wound
I think we can all agree that watch enthusiasm is often intertwined with a bit of cosplaying. James Bond-esque fantasies of tackling adventures in go-anywhere-do-anything watches have a powerful way of convincing office-dwelling collectors such as myself that over-engineered specs are a necessity. While actual practical need for secret agent-level robustness may be minimal for most collectors (I haven’t engaged in hand to hand combat or an aquatic chase all week), the pervasiveness of often repetitive feeling GADA designs can make avoiding rugged tool watches feel like a chore. This is especially true in the microbrand arena where many brands have made the dive watch their bread and butter and seemingly the format for all other complications, including GMTs. While I’m not here to throw shade (OK, maybe just a little) at the ubiquitous and often unimaginative tool watches that clearly reign supreme for many brands and collectors alike, I would be lying if I said the recent prevalence of dress watches in my Instagram feed hasn’t provided some much welcome variety. But even in this evolving landscape as dressier designs are having a moment, as I scroll through my curated collection of microbrand inspired hashtags, most #dresswatches from small independent brands are notably void of complications beyond a date window. Canadian microbrand Héron (known for their modern approach to neo-vintage inspired tool watches since 2021) seems to have recognized this gap between for...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Discover the Christopher Ward Twelve 660, an ultra-thin 6.6mm sports watch featuring refined finishing and minimalist design
Worn & Wound
Buying your first vintage watch is a little like stepping into a time machine. Every case has patina earned over decades, every dial tells a story of design choices made in another era, and every movement keeps time with the stubborn persistence of mechanical ingenuity. For three days this August, the Windup Watch Shop showroom in Brooklyn will become exactly that kind of space-an immersive experience curated by The Watch Preserve. Buying your first vintage watch is a little like stepping into a time machine. Every case has patina earned over decades, every dial tells a story of design choices made in another era, and every movement keeps time with the stubborn persistence of mechanical ingenuity. For three days this August, the Windup Watch Shop showroom in Brooklyn will become exactly that kind of space-an immersive experience curated by The Watch Preserve. The post The Watch Preserve Brings Vintage to the Windup Watch Shop Brooklyn Showroom Aug 28, 29 & 30 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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Deployant
Piaget releases two new in Kaki Green. The first is the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon and the second is the Altiplano Ultimate Automatic.
Fratello
If last year’s 32-strong collection of Chronomat B01 42s in NFL team colors was the rookie season, this year is the sophomore breakout for Breitling. The Swiss watchmaker has announced that it is becoming the popular sport league’s inaugural timepiece partner, along with the release of new watches to the NFL collection. What can we […] Visit Breitling Lands A Touchdown By Becoming The Official Timepiece Partner Of The NFL to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Launched last year as a concept watch of sorts – and the brand’s first-ever chronograph – the Nano Foudroyante now joins Greubel Forsey’s regular production catalogue, albeit in a small-run limited edition as is convention for the brand. The new Nano Foudroyante retains all of the key elements of the original Experimental Watch Technology (EWT) version – we examined that watch in-depth earlier this year – including the miniaturised lightning seconds mounted on the tourbillon cage. The design also remains the same, but gains colour in the form of a blued seconds scale and blued steel hands, while the case is now entirely in white gold. Initial thoughts The Nano Foudroyante is essentially a cosmetic variation on the original, but it looks notably different, though it feels the same; the watch is dense, heavy, and clearly high quality. The blue accents and faux-fabric rubber strap give the sort of informal, but not quite sporty, appearance that is popular today. In contrast, the original EWT version of the watch was old-school complicated watchmaking in its monochromatic grey-and-silver livery. The two versions still look pretty similar, however, and I would have hoped Greubel Forsey did more to set this apart from the EWT version. Alternatively the EWT iteration could have been made more radical or extreme, which is not a bridge too far for a “experimental” limited edition. That said, the watch is still technically impressive with its novel approach to the fo...
Time+Tide
Longines has thoughtfully redesigned the PrimaLuna with a larger, curvier case design while retaining a classic, timeless look.The post Longines brings the PrimaLuna bang up to date with a classy, all-new design appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Scrolling through Arnold & Son’s portfolio reveals a neat mix of classical watchmaking codes and contemporary touches across all collections. One of the finest examples is the DSTB 42, which reveals its jumping seconds mechanism smack-bang on the dial. That’s also the reasoning behind its name, by the way, as DSTB refers to Dial Side […]
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Fratello
Christopher Ward has a knack for surprising us. Just when you think you’ve got a handle on its direction, the brand finds a way to shift gears. The Twelve collection was already a strong contender in the genre of integrated-bracelet sports watches. Now, with the new Twelve 660, Christopher Ward shows it can play the […] Visit Christopher Ward Slims Down The Twelve: Introducing The Twelve 660 to read the full article.
Fratello
One of the most interesting developments in the world of watches recently is the use of color. We have seen a drastic shift in overall color use, particularly on dials, over the past few years. The conservative world of watches predominantly likes its dials to be black, white, or dark blue. Add any shade of […] Visit Discovering The Magic Of The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
About a year ago, we got our first peek at the M.A.D.1S, a slimmer and far more wearable version of the original M.A.D.1. This week, we got the first new variant of that watch, a collaboration between the crew at M.A.D. and Yinka Ilori, a British artist and designer known for infusing public spaces with bright colors. The new M.A.D.1S “Grow Your Dreams” collection adds a healthy dose of Ilori’s aesthetic to the M.A.D.1 and gives us a look at how future limited editions and variants of M.A.D. Editions pieces might take shape as the brand grows. At the outset, I think it’s important to acknowledge that M.A.D. Editions is indeed a brand unto itself at this point. What started as a one off project to reward longtime MB&F; collaborators with a cool watch to own in the same spirit of the high horology creations with a much lower price tag has morphed into what could really be called one of the most interesting microbrands going at the moment. I’m not sure if the team at M.A.D. Editions would necessarily self-identify as a microbrand, but of course in these pages it’s a compliment, and reflects a certain amount of ingenuity and creativity while remaining within certain guardrails and parameters around pricing and accessibility. The “Grow Your Dreams” collection consists of three watches, each taking on a different theme derived from the natural world: Sun, Water, and Nature. All include pretty wild color combinations – there’s no watch here that could be du...
Time+Tide
The high-end independent is teaming up with Massena Lab for a limited edition of 47 pieces, using NOS Minerva pocket watch movements.The post The Vianney Halter x Massena Lab Old Soul is powered by a new yet 100-year-old Minerva movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Since its debut just two years ago, the Multifort TV collection by Mido has been making quite a splash with its strong presence, solid mechanics and accessible prices. Things started in 2023 with the blue dial Multifort TV Big Date, and since it has become available in a range of colours and finishes, and even […]
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