Hodinkee
In The Shop: With Rado, Sometimes It Really Is Hip To Be Square - Especially When There’s High-Tech Ceramic Involved.
Several of members of the brand's quirky-meets-minimal True Square family have just landed in the Hodinkee Shop.
Results for Equation of Time
36,155 articles · 161 videos found · page 924 of 1211
Hodinkee
![[VIDEO] An In-depth Look at the Vortic Watch Company with R.T. Custer](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/11/Vortic_Windup.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] An In-depth Look at the Vortic Watch Company with R.T. Custer
Vortic Watch Company has been a mainstay of the Windup Watch Fair since its earliest days. We had the opportunity to catch up with the CEO of Vortic, R.T. Custer, at the fair. He gives us something we’ve been craving-a truly in-depth explainer of their why and their how-with some amazing examples along the way. Vortic is a unique organization, hell-bent on bringing watchmaking back to the United States, but with a modern and innovative twist. If you’ve ever wondered what Vortic is all about, you now have the definitive info at your fingertips. This video breakdown their process step-by-step and provides before and after glimpse of how they “preserve American history one watch at a time.” If you want to learn even more about the Vortic Watch Company after watching this explainer or would like to start the process of ordering your own custom pocket watch conversion, please visit vorticwatches.com. The post [VIDEO] An In-depth Look at the Vortic Watch Company with R.T. Custer appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Nomos Issues the Classic Tangente in a Limited Gold Version
In their ongoing “175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte” series, Nomos has finally unveiled a watch that we’re frankly surprised has never existed before, but makes perfect sense right now. The Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik is a precious metal limited edition version of what is indisputably the brand’s most iconic design. In any kind of celebratory context, you’d expect the Tangente to play a lead role, and now, after limited versions of the Orion and Ludwig, the Tangente gets its own luxurious turn. The 175 Years campaign has actually been ongoing since 2020, when a trio of stainless steel Lambdas were introduced. That release was notable because the Lambda had always been available only in solid gold, so a steel version was of particular interest to Nomos collectors who prize the brand’s watches for their great value. This release, in a way, is the inverse of the Lambda limited editions, with a model that is very much associated with stainless steel being introduced in gold. It makes a lot of sense for the Tangente, often cited as the most directly Bauhaus inspired watch in the Nomos catalog, to get this kind of treatment. In steel the straight lugs matched with the circular case appear almost severe, but the whole package has a warmer and more inviting sensibility in rose gold. It still looks delicate and impossibly precise, now just with a notably more luxe feel. The dial for this version is inspired by early watches made in Glashütte, and beyond tying this r...
Time+Tide
Living the jet set lifestyle for a day with the Grand Seiko SBGE285 Spring Drive GMT
I might not have a private jet or drive a Ferrari, but wearing this GS for a day made me feel like I do.The post Living the jet set lifestyle for a day with the Grand Seiko SBGE285 Spring Drive GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The Fourth Mathey-Tissot Collaboration with Massena LAB is a Colorful Tribute to 1968
Now in their fourth collaboration together, Swiss brand Mathey-Tissot and Massena LAB have once again brought their individual strengths to give us the Chronograph ‘68. This vintage-inspired watch is the best of both worlds: providing a great timepiece, while also being a stylish, vintage inspired accessory for anyone looking for an upgrade to their wrist rotation. The impetus for this watch’s design comes from the tumultuous year of 1968. As Mathey-Tissot recounts the various cultural shifts during this period in history, one really has the sense that there was a dramatic change happening as the world was preparing to ring in a new decade. Mathey-Tissot and Massena cite events like Arthur Ashe’s historic victory at the U.S. Open and the emergence of “mod” culture in London as important cultural touchstones from the year, and the Chronograph ‘68 exists as a kind of tribute to a very specific point in history by adhering to particular aesthetic choices rooted in late ‘60s watch design. To commemorate this period, Mathey-Tissot and Massena LAB looked at various reference points of watches that were sold during the 1960’s. The result is an amalgamation of design elements that work seamlessly together to make a timeless watch that could easily be made today or 60 years ago. From the black dial against the 41mm stainless steel case, to the reflective hour markers, to the three colorful registers in red, white, and blue, the balance of neutral design and pops of ...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the New, Smaller, Bell & Ross BR 03
Former Olympic cycling coach Dave Brailsford once said, “If you broke down everything you could think of that goes into riding a bike, and then improved it by 1%, you will get a significant increase when you put them all together”. The new Bell & Ross BR 03 features several small tweaks to its most iconic line of watches, and although not every modification is objectively ‘better’, the combination of all of the changes give us a watch that somehow feels less intense and therefore significantly more wearable. I’ve spent some time with the new BR 03 Military Ceramic to work out just what makes it feel so different. On the face of it, not much has changed. A reduction in case diameter from 42mm all the way down to 41mm isn’t earth-shattering. Without seeing the two side by side you would be hard-pressed to know which one you are looking at. The other case changes are just as subtle. The shape has been altered slightly to round the corners a little more. The introduction of the BR 05 in 2019 saw a much softer ‘square’ shape from Bell and Ross. The new BR 03 remains much closer to the square instrument panel shape the brand is famous for, but the silhouette reshaping is one of those 1% changes mentioned above. $4300 Hands-On: the New, Smaller, Bell & Ross BR 03 Case Micro Blasted ceramic Movement BR-CAL.302 Dial Khaki Lume Numerals and hands Lens Sapphire Strap Khaki rubber Water Resistance 100 meters Dimensions 41 x 50mm Thickness 10.6mm Lug Width 24mm Crown Pu...
Time+Tide
Move over, CasiOak, G-Shock has its next hype piece
Remember the ludicrous prices CasiOaks used to demand? Well, G-Shock's next contender, the GA-B001, may continue the trend.The post Move over, CasiOak, G-Shock has its next hype piece appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Happenings at the Geneva Auction Season Fall 2023
Regarded as a bellwether of the market, the Geneva auction season just concluded with the main players – Phillips, Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Antiquorum – having staged their sales over four days. Several records were set over the season, including CHF2.1 million for an immaculate Rolex ref. 6062 triple calendar in steel at Phillips, and CHF2.2 million for the George Daniels Millennium also signed by Roger W. Smith, both including fees. Trending one way Despite the record holders, the tone of the season was set by moderating or even weak prices. This was already evident with the most faddish of the “hype” watches last season six months ago. The May auctions saw prices for such watches gap down substantially, reflecting a new reality. Now the same appears to be happening for independent watchmaking – a good thing in my view as it will hopefully shake out the opportunists and no-hopers. The Roger W. Smith Series 2 hammered for CHF400,000 at Phillips (or CHF508,000 with fees), which is below the current retail price for the model and a third below the price of the lower-priced Series 1 that sold in the same venue in May 2023. The Phillips saleroom at La Reserve. Image – Phillips This phenomenon was not unique to Roger W. Smith, with prices gapping down for significant independents like F.P. Journe and Voutilainen. However, these brands remain buoyed by their relative reasonable retail prices, which still remain below recent auction valuations. Even if some exa...
Worn & Wound
Fall is Here: Saying Bye to Bracelets and Hello to Straps
It may be hard to believe, but we’re already well into November as fall is in full swing. Pool parties are giving way to grateful gatherings, and the shorter days usher in a more demure mood. In the same spirit, big and brash bracelet-clad watches are set aside for more modest pieces – often on straps – befitting of the autumn vibe. The Windup Watch Shop is truly your one-stop-shop for all things straps, from NATOs; to rubber; to leather; to steel. Stepping up your strap game and trying new combinations is a tried and true method to keeping your collection feeling fresh. But if a new watch for the season is what you are after, the Shop also has you covered with several leather-paired watches that fit the fall theme and are ready to slip under that cozy sweater you’ve been looking forward to wearing all year. It may be hard to believe, but we’re already well into November as fall is in full swing. Pool parties are giving way to grateful gatherings, and the shorter days usher in a more demure mood. In the same spirit, big and brash bracelet-clad watches are set aside for more modest pieces – often on straps – befitting of the autumn vibe. The Windup Watch Shop is truly your one-stop-shop for all things straps, from NATOs; to rubber; to leather; to steel. Stepping up your strap game and trying new combinations is a tried and true method to keeping your collection feeling fresh. But if a new watch for the season is what you are after, the Shop also has you covere...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Baltic Hermetique Tourer
When you look at Baltic’s lineup, you may have noticed the absence of a field watch. After tackling dive watches, GMTs, and other platforms, all with an eye toward a specific type of vintage elegance, Baltic has released the Hermetique Tourer - their take on the classic go-anywhere, do-anything field watch. Field watches are great, don’t get me wrong, but when so many are built to a specific military specification, they start to get a little bit stale. That’s not the case at all with Baltic’s newest field-ready wrist companion. The Hermétique takes those classic defining elements of a field watch and elevates them with style to fit Baltic’s overall aesthetic. Let’s jump in and take a closer look at this fun, reasonably-priced, and feature-packed entry into a new category of watches from Paris’ own Baltic Watches. $590 Hands-On: the Baltic Hermetique Tourer Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9039 Dial Green Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Sapphire Strap Tropic rubber, stainless bracelet Water Resistance 150 meters Dimensions 37 x 46mm Thickness 10.8mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Integrated, push down Warranty Yes Price $590 Case At first glance, the 37mm case looks surprisingly sleek. In case you missed it, the crown on the right side of the case pushes in to a point where it’s flush with the lines of the case, giving the Hermétique a largely circular appearance. While we tend to praise field and pilot watches for their large, accessible crowns, it’s nic...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On With the Oris x Collective Horology C.04 Divers Seventy-Five
We love a good riff on an existing concept around here, and there’s one candidate in particular that’s ripe for experimentation. The Oris Divers 65 (of Divers Sixty-Five if you’re not into the whole brevity thing) has proven rather malleable in recent years, hosting a variety of colorways, material combinations, dial designs, and even movements. And to its credit, all of them seem to work pretty well. Enter Collective Horology, who are using this watch as a base to their latest collaboration, the C.04, in a shaggy ‘70s inspired take on the watch dubbed, naturally, the Divers Seventy-Five. The Divers Seventy-Five brings back the dateless dial with the retro Arabic numerals marking the cardinal hours. The design feels right at home in the new color scheme, which consists of brown and orange tones throughout the steel case and bracelet. The result is a look that certainly won’t be for everyone, but offers one of the more inventive takes on the watch we’ve seen yet. The color scheme at work here takes inspiration from ‘70s California design according to Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly of the Collective, and when set into that context, takes on a slightly different character than your typical brown dial or two-tone watch. The Divers Seventy-Five is built into a 40mm steel case that’s accented by Oris’ bronze bezel and affixed to their bi-metal steel and bronze bracelet, leaning fully into the funky vibes that start at the dial. This is a case we’re fond of ar...
Time+Tide
Collective Horology adds their touch to the new Oris Divers Seventy-Five Calibre 400 C.04
The latest collaborative effort from Collective Horology transports a familiar face into the next decade.The post Collective Horology adds their touch to the new Oris Divers Seventy-Five Calibre 400 C.04 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Omega Introduces the Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT “Dark Grey”
After shading the Aqua Terra Worldtimer line in greys and greens, Omega debuts the Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT “Dark Grey”. A new take on its dive-ready GMT, the watch is named after the dark grey ceramic case, which harnesses the material’s hardness while staying lightweight thanks to the extensive use of titanium for its internals, including the movement bridges. Initial thoughts Titanium and ceramic are not noteworthy in themselves, but here the materials are combined in an interesting and functional manner. The scratch resistance of ceramic is useful for the case, while the titanium inner components keep the weight down, a helpful characteristic for a big watch. And the materials also create a shades-of-grey appearance that gives the watch a sense of seriousness – with the orange accents bringing some tasteful contrast – though it is less stark compared to its all-black ceramic sibling. Thought lighter than usual for a watch of its size, the new GMT is a big watch measuring 45.5 mm in diameter, making it quite a bit bigger than comparable watches from Tudor for instance. It would be more wearable and have a wider appealing if the case was in the range of 41 mm to 42 mm. Despite its material attractions, however, the GMT “Dark Grey” is expensive at US$22,200. It is almost twice as expensive as the same model in black ceramic (that admittedly doesn’t have a titanium movement). Despite the titanium components, the price is hard to justify since it i...
Quill & Pad
Joshua Munchow’s Thoughts and Predictions for the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)
With the 2023 edition of the GPHG nearly upon us, Joshua Munchow shares his thoughts and predictions from his first year as a member of the GPHG Academy.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
New Mondaine Stop2Go Models Join The Brand’s Flagship Collection
Mondaine has now released new versions of their popular Mondaine Stop2Go - now available in two sizes with a crown free design.
Teddy Baldassarre
Watch Engravings: Historic Examples and Ideas from Our Instagram Audie
Of all the elements that can make a watch special to its owner, few can compare to having it engraved - with a message, image, or other inscription that renders it uniquely personal to its owner. The art of engraving - i.e., carving characters or patterns into surfaces - goes all the way back to prehistoric cultures and watch engraving is a tradition that goes back all the way to the beginning of portable timepieces. The earliest examples can be found in pocket watches bearing royal crests and coats of arms for aristocrats and royalty, who were, of course among, the first wearers of timepieces. As watch ownership became more widespread and democratized, the variety of such customizations widened. Some of the most significant watches throughout history have borne personalized engravings that speak to their famous provenance. As we explore further in this article, the most expensive Rolex watch ever sold at auction is a Daytona owned by actor/racing driver Paul Newman, inscribed not with his name but with a cautionary message from his wife, Joanne Woodward, “DRIVE CAREFULLY - ME.” Nowadays, just about any Daytona owner can choose to have it engraved, but the most prestigious models are the ones awarded to winning drivers at the 24 Hours of Daytona race, each of which is engraved - by Rolex - with the driver’s name. One of the world’s most valuable Omega watches is a yellow-gold Slimline model owned by President John F. Kennedy, inscribed “PRESIDENT OF THE...
Worn & Wound
Opinion: Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me Part III - What We Value in Watches
In previous installments of “Selling Points,” contributor Nathan Schultz has examined the features of a watch that supposedly add value but aren’t necessarily needed, and watch related “deal breakers” that are widely expected in higher priced watches, but have little appeal to value conscious collectors. Here, in the third volume of the series, we open the topic up the wider roster of Worn & Wound contributors by asking what seems like a simple question: What do you value in a watch? Nathan Schultz Years ago, someone in a forum posed the following question: what do you look for in a watch? It’s a simple question, and my answer was equally straightforward. I quickly chimed in that I sought out the best spec per dollar ratio. Afterall, that was how I approached my entire life. I wanted the most reliable car for a reasonable monthly payment and the tastiest pizza on a Friday night without breaking the bank. It only made sense I would apply the same formula to watch collecting. Other responses did not share the same frugal sentiment. They focused on things like provenance and design- things I could have cared less about at the time. Looking back at that time when a sub $300 NH35 powered diver was all I needed, my simplified answer represented a preliminary phase in my horological journey. Since then, my opinions (some unpopular, if you have read the first two articles in this series) have become more complex. I still appreciate watches that offer capable specs for ...
Time+Tide
The Duke Clarity Tourbillon is a luxurious Luxembourgish salute to Genta watchmaking
Boasting a familiar octagonal form housing an innovative in-house movement, it's a bold first attempt from a brand (and country) little known to the world.The post The Duke Clarity Tourbillon is a luxurious Luxembourgish salute to Genta watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Six best watches with movements derived from the Sellita ébauches
Sellita is one of the mainstays for Swiss made ébauches in the industry. We pick six watches with movements which are derivatives of the Sellita ébauches.
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: A. Lange & Söhne Pour Le Mérite Tourbillon - Reprise
When the hammer came down at the Phillips auction and GaryG became the new owner of an A. Lange & Söhne Pour Le Mérite Tourbillon, the feeling was one of complete joy, representing the culmination of a multiyear chase. What makes this particular watch so special in so many ways to him?
Revolution
Amazing Rare Watches in Christie’s Upcoming Auction | In Conversation with Remi Guillemin
Join Eleonor and Remi Guillemin, Head of Watches at Christie’s, about some of the rarest timepieces in the world going under the hammer at the Christie’s Rare Watches Auction happening on 6 November 2023, 3PM CET. This interview spotlights a selection of exceptional timepieces, including the coveted Cartier ‘Dice’ wristwatch meticulously crafted by Cartier London, […]
Revolution
On the Wrist with Parmigiani Fleurier X Revolution Tonda PF Micro-Rotor “Purple Reign”
Our latest limited edition, the Parmigiani Fleurier X Revolution Tonda PF Micro-Rotor “Purple Reign,” graces the wrist. When bathed in sunlight, the signature Grain d’orge guilloché dial sparkles with intricate details, highlighting the exquisite Tyrian purple hue. It’s a true embodiment of elegance and subtlety at its finest. Complementing this timepiece is one of the most exquisitely […]
Quill & Pad
IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar Reference 3541: An Oft-Forgotten Eternal Gem - Reprise
IWC is a brand with a rich history, and it is in the fortunate position that each of its collections has an almost equal share in building this history. The Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar, developed by IWC's master watchmaker Kurt Klaus, was a horological revolution. And from it came this elegant Portofino variation of the 1990s.
Time+Tide
The Grand Seiko 36.5mm 44GS range expands with three new U.S. exclusive references (SBGW309, SBGW311, SBGW313)
Grand Seiko has just launched three new U.S exclusive midsize 44GS references at their GS9 Club USA event.The post The Grand Seiko 36.5mm 44GS range expands with three new U.S. exclusive references (SBGW309, SBGW311, SBGW313) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Take to sci-fi skies with the new Citizen Promaster Skyhawk collection
Citizen gives a masterclass in retrofuturistic pilot's watch design.The post Take to sci-fi skies with the new Citizen Promaster Skyhawk collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Behind The Lens: The Ultra-Rare Patek Philippe Chronograph Reference 5070J-013 - Reprise
It was not until 2015 that Patek Philippe publicly issued a number of small editions of previously discontinued references, each in previously unmade metal/dial combinations. This Patek Philippe Reference 5070J-013 is one of those ultra-rare birds. And GaryG wonders if it might bring yellow gold back into fashion single-handedly, as for him the combination of the yellow gold case and sunburst-brushed brown dial is as gorgeous as it is unexpected.
Hodinkee
The Italian Influence - Hodinkee Magazine Volume 12 Feature
A trip to Northern Italy to explore the past, present, and future of its finest influence on watches. Along the way, a conversation with one of the world’s biggest watch collectors.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: Chronographs from Seiko and Heuer, Pulsar LED, & More
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Bulova A17A Military Watch Vintage military watches are always highly sought after, and this one is a really cool example. The Bulova A17A mil-spec is small but mighty. These were made from about 1956-1962, and were issued as navigation watches for aviators. Nice smaller but chunky steel case with the original bead blasted finish and the military engravings on the back. The black dial is easy to read, and the lume has a nice patina. And you gotta love the oversized crown for the manual wind movement. No movement picture but the seller states the watch runs. View auction here. Pulsar LED I don’t know why so many vintage LED watches are popping out of the woodwork, but I’m loving it. This week we have a sleek looking vintage Pulsar LED, complete with original bracelet, inner and outer boxes and a boat load of paperwork. This is a fantastic time-capsule piece that is in immaculate condition, and is currently working great! Look at that futuro / space age look of the steel case and that wild bracelet. Even the warranty paperwork is filled out, which you rarely see. So cool! View auction here. Heuer Autavia GMT Chronograph Ok, time for a big boy. This is the famous Heuer Autavia GMT ch...
Teddy Baldassarre
The 17 Best Dive Watches Under $500
Dive watches continue to reign as one of the most popular timepiece styles out there, and the sheer breadth of choices in that genre - in the areas of size, design, colorway, and especially pricing - can be intimidating to the new watch enthusiast who might be just on the verge of taking the plunge (you should pardon the expression) into purchasing their first dive watch. Here we've gathered a dozen of our favorites with the budget-conscious consumer in mind: everything on this list can be had for $500 or under. (In a few cases, even though the MSRP comes in higher, you can acquire them below the $500 threshold directly from our online store; just follow the shopping links.) Casio Duro Price: $74.95, Case Size: 48.5mm x 44.2mm, Case Height: 12.1mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 200 meters, Movement: Quartz Analog Outside of its mega-popular G-Shock series (see directly below), It’s tempting to pigeonhole Casio as a maker of solely digital watches, but the brand also offers a handful of analog timepieces at similarly mass-market prices. Consider the Casio Duro, the Japanese manufacturer’s series of round-cased, analog-dial dive watches. At this very pedestrian price range, it is difficult to find a diver that offers what the Duro offers: a well-finished steel case, rotating dive-scale bezel with aluminum insert, 200-meter water resistance, and sunburst dial with lume-coated hands and indexes. The screw-down caseback sports an image of a Marlin, which als...
Worn & Wound
Tough and Technical Watches from Citizen: The Promaster Altichron and Promaster Tough
As a watchmaker, Citizen is as diversified as any in regards to the sheer breadth and width of its catalog. Collectors can get lost in the histories of cult classic dive watches while marveling at modern atomic timing tech. If there were two core attributes across Citizen’s diverse offerings, they could be summed up as “tough” and “technical”. Chalk it up to Japanese excellence or decades of innovation – either way you are getting a solid product. The modern lineup of Promaster watches epitomizes the toughness and technical know-how of Citizen. It is considered the “Professional” line of watches, and here are two models to consider adding to your arsenal for your next adventure. As a watchmaker, Citizen is as diversified as any in regards to the sheer breadth and width of its catalog. Collectors can get lost in the histories of cult classic dive watches while marveling at modern atomic timing tech. If there were two core attributes across Citizen’s diverse offerings, they could be summed up as “tough” and “technical”. Chalk it up to Japanese excellence or decades of innovation – either way you are getting a solid product. The modern lineup of Promaster watches epitomizes the toughness and technical know-how of Citizen. It is considered the “Professional” line of watches, and here are two models to consider adding to your arsenal for your next adventure. The post Tough and Technical Watches from Citizen: The Promaster Altichron and Promaster ...