Deployant
Live from WWG24: what’s new from Hublot. Highlights
We begin Thursday with Hublot, who released 37 novelties. Here are our highlights Of our top 3 from our touch and feel session.
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Deployant
We begin Thursday with Hublot, who released 37 novelties. Here are our highlights Of our top 3 from our touch and feel session.
Monochrome
In watchmaking, lightweight and highly resistant ceramic has become a favourite material, embraced by most brands, such as Bell & Ross. Renowned for its extensive use in the aerospace industry, ceramic is a highly technical substance that aligns seamlessly with Bell & Ross’s design philosophy rooted in aviation. Inspired by aircraft instrument panels, the brand […]
SJX Watches
ACHI member Konstantin Chaykin unveils his newest timepiece, the Joker Classic. Part of the Wristmon collection, the new Joker reverts to the original design of 2017 but boasts a case downsized to 40 mm and more notably a new movement. Initial thoughts The Joker, as introduced back in 2017, is a very quirky timepiece, not necessary suited to a wide range of tastes. The anthropomorphic dial is as striking today as it was then, with a niche appeal. Nonetheless, the timepiece was very well received – the original 99 pieces were sold out quickly. Since then there were some special editions based on the Joker concept, but most had their own peculiarities, mostly departing from the pure 2017 design. The Joker Classic remains exotic as ever, but feels like a return to the timepiece’s roots – complete with some embellishments and concessions to the modern industry standards. Priced at CHF16,900, the Joker Classic is amongst the more affordable of the Wristmon models. Like the original, it is a good value proposition given its distinctive design and high level of in-house manufacturing, despite the outsourced base movement. A familiar face The Joker Classic features the trademark white dial, made to resemble a smiling face. The regulator-like separated hours and minutes indicators make up the eyes, while the open grinning mouth reveals a cheeky moon phase complication. The Joker Classic is offered in two versions: the traditional color scheme of the original Joker (whit...
Fratello
Today, we look at the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar. This is one of my favorite models from the brand and certainly warrants attention whenever it’s updated. It’s never easy to cleanly pack in so many complications, but JLC seems to have pulled it off again. You can call me a heretic, but […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.
Hodinkee
A mere .05mm later, and the new Ultra supplants Richard Mille's 2022 efforts and also claims the record as world's thinnest chronometer-certified watch.
Monochrome
First released in 2019, the Chopard Alpine Eagle collection was met with great success. The brand’s vision of a luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet, it took design cues from a vintage model – the St Mortiz – and adapted it to modern tastes. Specifically, it stands apart with its fascinating textured dial, modelled […]
Hodinkee
It's nearly 320 grams of gold (and some titanium), it has a blue lacquer dial, and I desperately, desperately want to go diving with it.
Worn & Wound
The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was such a hit that they decided to make a sequel. Okay, that’s not totally accurate. 2022’s unexpected breakout watch did get a new version just two years later, but rather than a sequel, it’s more of a redux-a different take on the same story. A director’s cut? For those who need a recap, however, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was nothing short of complete and utter shock when first unveiled, even though there had already been a teaser trailer (I’m going to try to keep this movie thing up) in the form the T0 concept movement. While known for its finishing, spring drive, and high-beat movements, Grand Seiko was not considered a manufacturer of high-end complications. As such, even though it was a concept movement, the T0, which unveiled a novel constant-force tourbillon, took everyone by surprise. When Grand Seiko then unveiled the Kodo just a short while later, which included a refined and manufacturable version (if on a small scale) of the same complication within a skeletonized and highly finished movement on par with any haute Swiss brand, it announced that Grand Seiko was ready to play on a different level. A few years later, the Kodo, though sold out, is still being assembled via a team of three specialized watchmakers within Grand Seiko Atelier Ginza studio. Back to the present. Light and shadow are pervasive themes in Grand Seiko’s design. Alongside nature, they are at the core of their ...
Monochrome
Unveiled in 2020, the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph was a spectacular showcase of Vacheron Constantin’s dexterity in combining a monopusher chronograph and tourbillon complication with a twist, thanks to its unconventional layout. Now considered a classic, Vacheron has inducted the Traditionnelle into its hall of fame to become a member of the Excellence Platine club. Crafted […]
Hodinkee
It's not often that a brand starts with a skeletonized watch and works backward, but since when are more options a bad thing?
SJX Watches
Last year, Rolex made waves with its new dress watch collection, the Perpetual 1908. Initially comprising four references in yellow and white gold with silver and black dials, the 1908 now gains a new addition: the Perpetual 1908 (ref. 52506) in platinum. Continuing with the Rolex tradition of a dial colour unique to platinum models, the new 1908 features an ice blue dial finished with rice-grain guilloché that is traditionally applied with a rose engine. Initial thoughts The release of the 1908 was unexpected and marked a departure from the brand’s focus on sports watches. The models launched last year, however, were conservatively styled. The introduction of a guilloché dial, a first for the range, livens up the aesthetics of the 1908 while still retaining the overall design. The traditional engine-turning lends a three-dimensional effect to the dial, enhancing its aesthetic appeal. Additionally, it adds an artisanal touch to the model. The platinum ref. 52506 is priced at US$30,900, a sizeable increase over its yellow and white gold counterparts, but comparable to the pricing for other Rolex models, particularly with the addition of the guilloche dial. The Perpetual 1908 introduced last year in white gold (left) and yellow gold (right) “Rice-grain” guilloché The latest release showcases a striking ice blue dial adorned with an intricate guilloché “rice-grain” motif, achieved through the engraving technique of guillochage, whereby an engraver employs an eng...
Monochrome
Following decades of Big Bang domination in extravagant, angular cases in all shapes and sizes, in 2020, Hublot introduced its first Big Bang with a fully integrated metal bracelet. Known as the Big Bang Integrated because of its integrated bracelet and materials, we’ve already seen 40mm cases with openworked dials, and time-and-date displays. Going back to […]
Monochrome
Putting jokes aside, Parmigiani Fleurier has unveiled a captivating addition to its Tonda PF Micro-Rotor collection: the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date. Featuring a Grain d’Orge Golden Siena dial devoid of a date function; this timepiece exudes a strikingly pure aesthetic bound to captivate enthusiasts. Measuring 40mm in diameter and 45.6mm lug-to-lug, with a thickness […]
Deployant
For 2024, two new Datographs. The base chronograph in white gold and a chronograph perpetual calendar tourbillon in honey coloured gold.
Worn & Wound
The Montblanc Iced Sea Automatic Date collection, already notable for its unique glacial-inspired aesthetics, welcomes two new additions to its line-up: Bronze and Burgundy. Both models expand upon the Iced Sea collection to bring a moodier, more sophisticated look. The first of these, Bronze, marries a black glacier pattern dial with a bronze-tone case, a nod to the golden hues of dusk over frosty terrains. This reference stands out with its use of cupro aluminum for the case – a unique alloy that surpasses traditional bronze in resistance to wear and corrosion, promising durability while aging gracefully into a charming patina. It also introduces a bi-color unidirectional bezel, a new logo reflecting Montblanc’s heritage, and a titanium caseback adorned with a scuba diver motif, all complemented by a versatile black rubber strap with a brown accent. The Burgundy model, on the other hand, captures the deep reds of evening light on ice, paired with a black ceramic bezel. It comes with an interchangeable stainless-steel bracelet, ensuring a perfect fit for the wearer. Both models exhibit the meticulous craftsmanship Montblanc is known for, utilizing a special gratté-boisé technique for the dials to create an impression of depth and luminosity, while the casebacks feature detailed 3D engravings achieved through precise laser work. Each model’s case comes in at 41mm, accompanied by a sapphire crystal and equipped with an MB 24.17/SW200 automatic movement that promises...
Deployant
Next up, we are at Angelus and handled the novelties. Here is our live report from PalExpo. Here we take a look at the Instrument de Vitesse.
Monochrome
Chronographs made their way into the Portugieser family in 1995 with a sophisticated Valjoux-modified rattrapante (IW3712), followed by a classic chronograph, again with a modified Valjoux, in 1998 with the reference IW3714. And then, in 2020, IWC equipped it with a manufacture column-wheel chronograph movement to become the IW3716 (don’t miss our article comparing the […]
Hodinkee
These new Cosmograph Daytonas come with contrasting Mother-of-Pearl Dials and Diamonds – a subdued gem-set flex.
Hodinkee
After discontinuing the 5980 in Rose Gold earlier this year, the model is back with a new case metal and denim texture strap.
Monochrome
In 1960, a team of Seiko engineers produced a watch that encapsulated precision, durability, refined execution and beauty. Launched in a 35mm yellow gold case with a slim, chronometer-rated movement, the specifications of the new watch were so well calibrated that it was christened the Grand Seiko. Celebrating Grand Seiko’s official independence from Seiko in […]
Deployant
Next up, live from Zenith booth in PalExpo. We handled the novelties, and here are our highlights from the new Defy Skyline collection.
Fratello
The TAG Heuer Monaco is an absolute fan favorite among racing enthusiasts and watch lovers alike. Since its inception in 1969, it has seen many iterations and versions, some basic, some fancy. Today, we see the introduction of two rather high-end versions of the Monaco. This is the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph. Let’s have a look! […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph to read the full article.
Monochrome
The moon phase indicator and date combination is a flagship model at Frederique Constant, appearing with the launch of the brand’s second manufacture movement in 2005. Early models, like the Heart Beat Manufacture, were equipped with the brand’s hand-wound moon phase and date movement (FC-915). Evolving over the years and replacing the manual-winding movement with […]
Deployant
Our first meeting for the day is with Montblanc and they released a slew of novelties. Here is our live impressions and highlights.
Hodinkee
The brand uses every possible millimeter of space to bring us a new Portugieser with a movement that keeps going, and going, and going – just what you want in a perpetual calendar.
Monochrome
In 1969, Zenith launched the Defy series, aiming to enhance its collection with robust and reliable timepieces tailored for specific purposes. Seeking to expand its Defy line with a watch capable of conquering ocean depths, the brand swiftly introduced the Defy Diver. Among its most iconic iterations was the A3648 reference, boasting an impressive water […]
Hodinkee
Three new classics are born: two new 39mm time only models and a moonphase with retrograde date.
Hodinkee
Thimbles, scissors, pin cushions and Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel's Rue Cambon atelier are the inspiration behind this new limited capsule collection.
Hodinkee
Utilizing rose gold, diamonds, and a mother-of-pearl dial or two, each piece is a decidedly feminine take on sporty luxury.
Deployant
UN releases a Freak with a new release for 2024 - the Freak S Nomad. No dial, no crown and no hands. Return to conceptual origins of The Freak.
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