Hodinkee
Introducing: Frederique Constant x Watch Angels Worldtimer Manufacture Limited Edition
With an updated case, new sizing, and refined dial design, this new limited edition takes an already great model to a whole new level.
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Hodinkee
With an updated case, new sizing, and refined dial design, this new limited edition takes an already great model to a whole new level.
SJX Watches
Hermès’ myriad interpretations of its signature motif ranges from the comic to the complicated. The Slim d’Hermès Cheval Brossé, on the other hand, is elegantly abstract. Retaining the familiar 39.5 mm case design of the “Slim” model, this features a meticulously handcrafted dial depicting a stylised horse rendered in brushstrokes. Unusually, the “Cheval Brossé” dial is the result of both artisanal and mechanical techniques: the base is traditional, hand-made grand feu enamel, while the horse is pad printed in multiple runs for each colour. Initial thoughts While the equestrian motif is repeated often, the versatility and creativity of Hermès’ design department allows the theme to stay fresh. The Cheval Brossé illustrates this: while the horse is recognisably Hermès in form and flavour, it is still striking different from prior models. Compared to several of Hermès’ other métiers d’art watches that tend to be more elaborate, the Cheval Brossé – French for “brushed horse” – possesses an understated aesthetic with its abstractly rendered horse set against the pristine blue enamel dial. Though the dial is simple, the “brushstrokes” that make up the horse give the dial a surprising degree of motion. The combination of enamel and pad printing, while not unique, is uncommon. Though this means the dial doesn’t boast the full-fledged artisanal craft, it certainly makes the watch more affordable. Sky blue enamel As is typical for a metie...
Time+Tide
GP's 6th collaboration with Aston Martin is a titanium Laureato Chronograph with a dial that uses iridescent green automotive paint.The post Girard-Perregaux debuts its sixth collaboration with Aston Martin, marking the beginning of the latest Formula 1 season appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
IWC gives its exceptionally shock resistant – and strikingly expensive – aviator’s watch a new look. The Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff is dressed in the black and green livery of the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team that’s sponsored by IWC and led by Austrian auto entrepreneur Toto Wolff. Although largely unchanged from the original version, the Toto Wolff edition features a stamped, grained dial with a cleaner aesthetic and open-worked hands. And the BMG shock-absorbing spring that rings the movement is coated in Petronas green Super-LumiNova for maximum visual effect. Initial thoughts Despite its (very) limited commercial success, the original Big Pilot XPL is an interesting example of horological engineering. While its considerable price tag was debatable, the technology inside was novel and exemplifies IWC’s historical focus on engineering. The new iteration is hardly revolutionary since it’s merely a cosmetic makeover, but it does bring a new aesthetics that might give the watch a bigger audience, especially with the high profile of Formula 1 and Toto Wolff himself thanks to the Netflix series about the sport. The new Toto Wolff edition is priced at US$102,000, comparable to the first version and steep for a time-only watch, especially so for an IWC. However, seen another way, the price is perhaps competitive since the another brand that has long emphasised shock resistance and Formula 1 is Richard Mille, and any of its watches is...
Time+Tide
The Grand Seiko STGK031 & STGK033 share cherry blossom-inspired dial hues as well as a diminutive 30mm diameter.The post Grand Seiko releases two new 30mm cherry blossom 62GSs – their slimmest and smallest automatics yet! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Perrelet, a member of the Festina Group (since 2004), which owns movement manufacturer Soprod, traces its roots back to 1777. Today, the brand is best known for its Turbine collection, which was first introduced in 2009. These distinctive timepieces feature an oscillating weight on the back and a series of turbine blades on the front that spin freely with wrist movement, revealing the dial beneath. The dynamic Turbine dials provide a canvas for creativity, and over the years, Perrelet has embraced experimentation with models like the Splash, Hypnotic, Royal Flush, Rainbow, Erotica, and Skull. The brand's latest partnership with seconde/seconde pushes the whimsy even further, bringing the playful "Safety First" concept to life on the dial.
Time+Tide
With a dragging hours display and hand-painted dial, it celebrates 80 years of the Moomins.The post Sarpaneva’s latest, lumetastic Moomin 80 watch has the cute critters sleeping under a shooting star appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Bell & Ross, the Franco-Swiss watchmaker celebrated for its aviation instrument-inspired timepieces, ventures into the celestial realm with the BR-03 Astro. This striking new model, limited to 999 pieces, takes inspiration from the larger theme of space exploration, capturing the Earth, Moon, and Mars within its avant-garde dial. Despite the seemingly cosmic display, the dial only indicates the hours, minutes, and seconds in a conventional manner, keeping the watch affordable. By merging sharp execution with a cosmic narrative, Bell & Ross introduces an imaginative take on its mostly functional “tool” watches. Initial thoughts At the core of the BR-03 Astro sits a unique, if simplistic, reinterpretation of a “planetary” movement. Over the celestial aventurine glass base, a tiny Mars indicates the hours, a realistic-looking Moon indicates the minutes, and a satellite marks the passing seconds. All these indicators revolve around a large Earth that rests immobile at the centre of the dial. What is basically a three-hand watch becomes a rather immersive reinterpretation of the universe. While the motion of the planets is not accurate, the interplay of these well-reproduced celestial bodies has an undeniable appeal to it. The BR-03 Astro is not an astronomical complication nor an accurate cosmos model but manages to appeal through its playful take on the space theme, while staying in the same price range as the more conventional BR-03 models. This is an interesti...
Monochrome
With Bell & Ross‘ creations deeply inspired by the world of aviation, it was only a matter of time before the brand set its sights again beyond the skies – toward the vast expanse of space. Enter the latest addition to the BR-03 series: a timepiece with an animated dial where celestial bodies mark the […]
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko announced in September last year a vintage remake inspired by the 45GS of 1968, the Heritage Collection 45GS Re-creation, which was launched as the SLGW005 in steel and the SLGW004 in yellow gold. In contrast to the many recent Grand Seiko releases with modern styling, the 45SG Re-creation is refreshing in being a revival of an iconic design, right down to the double-signed dial. Yet, the model also sports the brand’s latest generation manual-wind movement, the 9SA4. As the more accessible model of the two – retail is a little under US$10,000 – the steel SLGW005 deserves a closer look to understand how it smartly melds old and new. Initial thoughts Aesthetically, the SLGW005 stands out as a distinctively vintage design, from the case and dial to the buckle. This is all the more so since it is the first release since Grand Seiko’s rebranding in 2017, when all models eliminated “Seiko” in favour of only “Grand Seiko”, to feature the brand’s historical double-signed “Seiko” and “GS” dial. I am personally fond of this detail, as the double logo balances the dial aesthetically. But preferences aside, the external components are indeed excellent, from the dial work down to the faceted case. Despite the traditional exterior, the internals are modern – almost paradoxically so. Sporting the brand’s proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement, the 9SA4 inside is entirely different than the 1960s cal. 4520 found in the 45GS. On paper, it is a high-s...
Fratello
It has been a few years since we last featured Mitch Mason on Fratello. We reported on the brand’s Maelstrom dive watch series, which has been quite a success for the Singaporean brand. The new Maelstrom Tales of the Sea is an updated version of the initial Maelstrom. It features a revised dial with a […] Visit Hands-On With The New Mitch Mason Maelstrom Tales Of The Sea to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Move over white lacquer dial. I've got a new favorite Speedy.
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko’s Alpinist collection is welcoming a new member this week with the release of a new GMT reference featuring a dial inspired by the hornbill, a tropical bird of Southeast Asia. The watch is a Land Alpinist using the brand’s 6R54 caliber, and while this is an existing configuration released back in 2023, there are a few unique details here worth noting - from dial textures and colors to the black bezel piece. This watch is not only a celebration of the majestic hornbill, but also an expansion of the Alpinist platform that goes beyond the existing framework, hopefully opening the door to more expressive variations moving ahead. The Alpinist GMT was released in 2023 in what felt like a very natural move for the collection. As part of the Prospex Land family, the new Alpinist references utilized a fixed, 24-hour steel bezel and an internally rotating compass bezel. Use of the 6R54 allowed the addition of a 24-hour hand into the mix; however this is the so-called “caller” style of GMT hand, meaning the hour hand cannot be set independently on the go. Still, it’s a welcome addition to the modern series carrying forth Seiko’s historic Alpinist name, and retains the charming design of the original. This newest reference to the collection is the SPB493J, and it mixes up the formula just enough to stand apart from the rest. This watch uses base blacks set against the steel 39.5mm case and bracelet, with the inclusion of a deep green color used for the rotating inn...
Deployant
Czapek repeases the Promindate plissé. Plisse being French for pleats. The dial is very interesting on this one, and it is available in 3 different colours.
SJX Watches
Sarpaneva returns to the Swedish comic, but this with a twist: the Moomin 80 features a skeletonised steel dial with a “shooting star” aperture that reveals the hours on a rotating disc. Making its debut in two versions, the latest Moomin edition retains the signature elements of its predecessors, including the familiar Sarpaneva case with flared flanks and a hand-finished dial filled with multi-coloured Super-Luminova. As with the Sarpaneva x Moomin release four years ago, the dial draws inspiration from a comic book scene. Initial thoughts This is the third Moomin edition, with the last one, a diver’s watch, launched a year ago. It would have been repetitive if this was instead a rehash with a different scene on the dial, but the latest edition stands out for the unique hour display. Although the hours are mechanically straightforward, it is different enough to make this distinct from the preceding Moomin models. Priced at €13,500, the Moomin 80 costs a little more than the earlier version that was €12,000. The price remains competitive considering the overall craftsmanship, most of which lies in the hand-finished dial that is also painted by hand. Both the rotor and case are also high quality and made in-house by Sarpaneva, adding to the value proposition. The two versions of the Moomin 80 Intricate dial works The Moomin 80 employs the trademark Sarpaneva case made of Finnish stainless steel. It’s chunky but appropriately sized and creates a coherent aesthet...
SJX Watches
Piaget is dialling up the complexity of its popular sorts watch with the Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase. Housed in a 44 mm, cushion-shaped titanium case, the new Polo features a partially open-worked dial that reveals the flying tourbillon - with cage topped by a stylised “P” - alongside a moon-phase indicator at six o’clock. Interestingly, the ultra-thin cal. 642P inside is a form movement in a tonneau shape. Initial thoughts The Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase adds an interesting pair of complications to the Polo, but without impacting the simplicity or symmetry of the dial. It’s a high-end alternative to the more affordable Polo models, like the Skeleton Ceramic, but it is also the largest Polo at 44 mm in diameter. This will affect wearability, making it versatile than the smaller-format Polo models. That said, because the movement is ultra-thin, the large case has an elegant, thin profile. As an aside, an open back would have been a welcome addition, since it would provide a view of the tonneau-shaped movement. Tourbillon This 44 mm cushion-shaped titanium case is finished with alternating mirror polishing and satin-brushing, complemented by blue-coated inserts on the case flanks. Water-resistant to 100 m, it frames a partially open-worked dial that’s finished with horizontal fluting as is standard for the Polo. Visible from both the front and back, the flying tourbillon is framed by a blue seconds ring on the dial, allowing the cage to double up as ...
Fratello
A few weeks ago, I visited the Omega headquarters in Biel, and the folks there showed me this new handsome white-dial Seamaster 37mm. It ticks many boxes for me, and many of you also enjoy the return of the dog-leg lugs and vintage-style cases. Omega also shipped the watch to us, so it’s time for […] Visit Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Back in 2020, watch magazine Revolution introduced its first limited edition Zenith Chronomaster Revival, a watch with a bold dial layout inspired by a 1971 version of the legendary El Primero nicknamed the A3818 “Cover Girl”. This first edition was made in steel and was followed in 2022 by the Chronomaster Revival A3818 “Airweight Cover Girl” in […]
Fratello
It’s no secret that I adore the classic Zenith El Primero A384 and all of its vintage and modern descendants. One of the most famous is the brilliant El Primero A3818 “Cover Girl” that graced the cover of Manfred Rössler’s popular Zenith book from 2009. The vintage blue-dial A3818 is an absolute beauty and has […] Visit Introducing: The Zenith × Revolution Chronomaster Revival A3818 “Cover Girl Carbon” to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
The IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 is a stunning embodiment of luxury and timeless style, drawing its roots from the heritage of the iconic Reference 325 model. In this review, I explore one of the most striking colour combinations to fully appreciate what makes this timepiece stand out. What We Love The black obsidian dial perfectly complements the 18k 5N gold case ideally sized to suit even small wrists A timeless design that references the original Prortugieser Reference 325. What We Don’t With a case thickness of 12.4mm, the watch’s water resistance of 30m seems too little. The lack of a date window may deter those who want a dress watch with this feature. Sixty seconds constant sub-counter needs to be a few shades darker to more closely match with the dial. Overall Score: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Portugieser line has to be my favourite from IWC Schaffhausen, with its elegant and refined aesthetics complementing the sporty side. Previously, I had the chance to wear and test out the IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 42 with the sliver-plated dial, and I certainly enjoyed my time with it! Before I had the chance to do the review, however, I was already a fan of the Automatic 42, especially its bi-counter layout displaying the power reserve and constant seconds. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) The IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 40 on Chamath’s wrist W...
SJX Watches
On its face, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Date in CFT carbon is familiar. The aesthetic is the oversized, stylised, and modern look that defines the Royal Oak Concept (ROC), with aggressive pusher guards and a complex, open-worked dial. And this latest version has the added feature of a carbon composite case produced via Chroma Forged Technology (CFT) that adds both colour and luminosity to the material. But the ROC Split-Seconds is more than just another Royal Oak chronograph because of the cal. 4407 inside. Launched in the 2023 titanium model, the is a latest-generation in-house movement and a notably innovative rattrapante calibre. The ingenuity of the movement lies in the fact that is both a traditional, integrated split-seconds chronograph and self-winding – a feat achieved with an elegant and patented automatic mechanism. Initial thoughts The very first Royal Oak Concept in Alacrite of 2002 was an enormous, heavy watch. Since then, the design of the ROC has been refined to become more wearable, and more lightweight thanks to new materials. The ROC Split-Seconds is perhaps the most wearable to date. Even though it’s a big watch, it doesn’t actually feel that large; the curved, tonneau-like form clings to the wrist well. The look is typical ROC – technical, aggressive, and modern. While I like the look, it is a little over the top. The style is now; I am not sure how it will age. Visuals aside, the ROC Split-Seconds is int...
Fratello
In 2019, Hamilton launched a limited-edition Chrono-Matic 50 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the legendary Calibre 11. Along with Breitling, Heuer, Dubois-Dépraz, and Buren, Hamilton was one of the original partners in the development of the automatic Calibre 11 that debuted in 1969. The 2019 version of the Chrono-Matic 50 had a black dial, […] Visit Introducing: The Hamilton Chrono-Matic 50 Limited Edition In Blue And Orange to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Have revived the Credor Locomotive last year with the limited edition GCCR999, Seiko has now added the Gerald Genta-designed sports watch to its regular production lineup. The Credor Locomotive GCCR997 is identical to its limited edition counterpart, save for the dial, which is now dark green with an intricate hexagon pattern. Initial thoughts Having already gotten wind of the Locomotive becoming regular production, the new GCCR997 isn’t a surprise. It is also inevitable given the good response enjoyed by the limited edition, which was well priced, especially for the case and bracelet quality. The honeycomb dial with its novel pattern is a nice touch. Seiko has wisely kept the retail price essentially unchanged over the limited edition – this is about US$500 more expensive – which means the is still good value, and also more accessible. And I’m sure this won’t be the only Locomotive in the catalogue, so expect to see more variants in the future. Hexagon themed The new Locomotive has the same titanium case and bracelet found on last year’s model. The GCCR997 retains the dimensions of the vintage original that was launched in 1978, but with an improved construction and finish. Made of Seiko’s “high-intensity” titanium, the case and bracelet are finished with a combination of brushed and polished surfaces that gleam a little more than usual because the proprietary alloy has greater hardness than the conventional titanium alloys used in watches. The original,...
Monochrome
Piaget’s luxury sports watch, the Polo, is inspired by the brand’s iconic solid gold 1979 Polo quartz model with horizontal gadroons running across the dial and the integrated bracelet. Revamped from head to toe in 2016 in steel with mechanical movements, the Polo family is represented by complications small and large, from time and date […]
SJX Watches
A refined addition to H. Moser & Cie.’s line of sporty dress watches, the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is distinguished by a more compact 40 mm case. The look is classic Moser with the signature fumé dial adorned with an imperceptible logo in transparent print. More prominent is the flying tourbillon at six o’clock with the trademark Moser carriage of a wide “V” containing double hairsprings for superior chronometry. Initial thoughts The Streamliner remains the most recognisable model in Moser’s lineup, even as the popularity of integrated bracelet sports watches wanes. Meanwhile, the Pioneer is often overlooked by collectors, making it somewhat underrated despite its appeal. Personally, I like the Pioneer for its sporty design, even though it isn’t a traditional sports watch and instead a cross between a sports and dress watch. Departing from its predecessor’s substantial 42.8 mm case, the new model is more wearable. It leans more towards the dress watch side of the spectrum with its smaller case, but still has a 120 m water resistance (and is delivered with a green rubber strap). Priced at CHF59,900, the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is a value proposition in terms of tourbillons from an independent watchmaker. A steel version would be sportier and more affordable, and while that’s not on the cards yet, it is probably on the way given Moser’s track record. Burgundy gradient A standout feature is the fumé dial that’s made up of black and burgundy treat...
Hodinkee
With an Ice Race-inspired polar white dial, the latest F.A.T. edition from Porsche Design has a truly glowing personality.
Monochrome
Following the introduction of the Evolution 9 collection, with a new generation of mechanical and Spring Drive movements in 2020, Grand Seiko released a watch that will become a hit, the White Birch SLGH005. With its impressive dial, newly designed case and innovative movement, the watch made quite an impression… So much so that it […]
SJX Watches
Urwerk refines its entry-level offering with the UR-100V Magic T Hunter Green that showcases a metallic ash green dial matched with a sandblasted case and bracelet. Entirely in titanium, the new UR-100V is sleek, matte, and lightweight. The new model remains mechanically identical to the standard UR-100V, and retains the distinctive satellite disc hour display, where the hour indicator advances along a curved 120-degree track graduated for 60 minutes. Initial thoughts Building on the ongoing expansion of the UR-100V series, the Magic T “Hunter Green” adopts the same sanded, shot-blasted titanium case as the original Magic T - but now rendered in metallic ash green. Though the new model has more contrast, it still retains the muted, low-key aesthetic found on the all-grey original. While the model itself has appeal, Urwerk has arguably introduced too many iterations of the UR-100, each distinguished by only subtle variations, since the model’s debut in 2019. This has made the model line confusing, and leaving each individual edition less distinctive. As with other UR-100 models, the “Hunter Green” is an entry-level model in the Urwerk catalogue and priced CHF58,000, or a third of the recent flagship UR-230 Polaris. This and other UR-100 models provide enthusiasts with the chance to experience Urwerk’s signature complication and advanced case making at a relatively accessible price. Restrained green Apart from the green finish, the “Hunter Green” remains id...
Hodinkee
If it's not Burgundy, it's just sparkling red dial.
Teddy Baldassarre
Since its high-profile revival in 2012, the Seiko Astron has continuously evolved in both its technical capabilities and in its size and overall aesthetics. As I explore in greater detail in this little treatise on the Astron models and their esteemed history, the founding member of this modern, solar-powered, GPS-equipped Astron family debuted in an imposing 47mm case in steel, with one dial option, in matte black. Since then, Seiko has refined the elements that necessitated the large dimensions and limited colorways — i.e., reducing the size of the quartz movement’s GPS-reception antenna and improving the efficiency of the dial’s solar cell — and the result has been a plethora of intriguing interpretations. The latest and perhaps most distinguished in terms of colorway dropped just recently. The Astron GPS Solar SSJ029 and Astron GPS Solar Chronograph SSH171, both limited editions of 1,500 pieces, feature glittering, violet-hued dials that Seiko says are inspired by “cherry blossoms blooming under the stars.” Both of the new watches have cases and bracelets made from titanium and treated with an extra-hard, scratch-resistant black coating that emphasizes the night-sky motif that these models are shooting for aesthetically. The cases are 42mm in diameter, 12.4mm thick, and 47.9mm lug to lug — the result of the aforementioned streamlining since the oversized original’s debut. The dials’ gradient purple colors are enhanced by a sprinkle of starry glitter...
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