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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Culture and Community: A Recap of San Francisco Windup Watch Fair 2023 Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Fortis Oris May 23, 2023

Culture and Community: A Recap of San Francisco Windup Watch Fair 2023

Though our recent Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco wrapped a few weeks ago, it still feels like yesterday as this was our most ambitious event to date. We had more watch brands than any other Windup. In the form of “EDC Alley”, we had more watch-adjacent brands than ever. We also continued to push the boundaries of what a watch fair can be with one-of-a-kind culture building moments throughout the exciting, long weekend. First and foremost, ​​we’d like to thank everyone who came out to the event, to meet and buy watches, and to help make it a huge success. Our team had the pleasure of speaking with many of you, some of whom traveled from all around the country and even various parts of the world. Bringing all of these unique product enthusiasts under one roof made for a distinctively energetic show, complete with delectable food trucks and sunny California skies. We miss it already. We’d also like to thank all of the brands that chose to participate in the San Francisco Fair, from our distinguished lead sponsors: Accutron, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Oris, and Zodiac to our amazing Key Sponsors: Alpina, Bulova, Citizen, Collective, eBay, Europa Star, Fears, G-SHOCK, Junghans, Maurice LaCroix, and Norqain. Finally, we want to give a special shout out to VERO Watch Company for premiering their first short film called “Katabatic Flight” at the show followed by a live acoustic set by the film’s director Matt Costa, who also scored the film. We also want to th...

Hawaii’s Imperial Watch Co. Announces a Trio of New Variants in their Royalguard 200 Collection Worn & Wound
May 16, 2023

Hawaii’s Imperial Watch Co. Announces a Trio of New Variants in their Royalguard 200 Collection

Introducing the Hawaii based Imperial Watch Co. Royalguard 200, initially unveiled in October 2022. And when we say “unveiled,” we mean it was an instant sell-out hit, with every piece snatched up before it even had a chance to grace the hypothetical shelves. So it’s no surprise that Imperial is back, this time offering more of what made the Royalguard a fast success. The Royalguard’s reissue is now available in three limited edition colorways, featuring both date and no-date options. Imperial has also revived the original blue bezel variant, presenting it in a limited run of just 30 pieces with a date function. While the watch itself remains largely unchanged from its previous iteration, the new colorways add some variety, presenting new options to collectors who may have missed out on the Royalguard’s first release. Let’s dive into the new colors (pun always intended). First up is the Tropical, which captures the rusty brown and red tones reminiscent of a well-aged tropical bezel. Then we have the Ghosted Green, a soft, muted shade of green that changes from light green to a deep emerald depending on the light.  And of course, there’s the Classic Black, which exudes a vintage, almost gray faded aesthetic. The original blue bezel variant follows this same trend, with its muted, faded, and aged appearance. The Royalguard draws considerable inspiration from the iconic Eberhard Scafograf 200, notably in its glossy black dial that dances with the light. The ove...

Parmigiani Fleurier are maintaining their killer momentum in style Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier are maintaining their killer Apr 23, 2023

Parmigiani Fleurier are maintaining their killer momentum in style

It’s easy to read about a watch brand having an incredible turnaround and soar in popularity, and you may even notice the rise in social media posts or news articles written about a new phenomenon. But, if you really want to capture the excitement behind something amazing, then you need to be able to see … ContinuedThe post Parmigiani Fleurier are maintaining their killer momentum in style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Christian Selmoni introduces Vacheron Constantin complications at Watches and Wonders 2023 Revolution
Vacheron Constantin complications Mar 30, 2023

VIDEO: Christian Selmoni introduces Vacheron Constantin complications at Watches and Wonders 2023

Vacheron Constantin’s Heritage and Style Director Christian Selmoni presents the Vacheron Constantin Double Retrograde mechanism, which is now available in both the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony and the Vacheron Constantin styles of watch. In this video, Mr Selmoni also shows Revolution Founder Wei Koh the Traditionelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Open Face, a 41mm pink gold watch […]

[VIDEO] Chopard Grants Alpine Eagle L.U.C Movement In New 41XPS Worn & Wound
Chopard Grants Alpine Eagle L.U.C Mar 29, 2023

[VIDEO] Chopard Grants Alpine Eagle L.U.C Movement In New 41XPS

Chopard expanded their Alpine Eagle collection in big ways this year, with the introduction of the new high-beat Cadence that gets a full titanium case and bracelet, and they’ve finally given the watch one of their lovely L.U.C calibers. This is the new Alpine Eagle 41XPS featuring the 96.40-L micro-rotor movement. It’s extra thin and extra beautiful as a result, mated to a salmon dial with no date, and a subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock. This isn’t the only new watch to receive this movement, as it can also be found in the stunning L.U.C 1860, which feels a more natural habitat for such a movement, leaving the jump to the Alpine Eagle collection all the more welcome.  The Alpine Eagle 41XPS is, as you might have guessed, built in the 41mm case using Chopard’s Lucent Steel A223, an alloy that incorporates a high amount of recycled steel, and is smelted multiple times for increased hardness and brightness. It’s quite lovely in person, though I don’t know I’d be able to place it as something different without that knowledge beforehand. It’s worth noting the Chopard is working to transition more of their steel watches to Lucent steel in the coming years. The 41XPS uses the L.U.C 96.40-L caliber, which itself is a shade over 3mm in thickness allowing for an exceptionally thin case. It’s COSC certified and quite a looker through the exhibition caseback. Its placement within the Alpine Eagle collection pushes this steel watch into a different price realm, at ...

Watches & Wonders: Day 2 Recap Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer who have introduced new Mar 28, 2023

Watches & Wonders: Day 2 Recap

Day 2 of Watches & Wonders is history, and the Worn & Wound team is back to recap the day’s events once again. Today saw more meetings, more video shoots, and more frantically checking our calendars to make sure we don’t miss a key appointment. There were also plenty of surprises, from brands that we have known and loved for years, and also some that we all want to learn more about. Check our reactions to day 2 below. Zach Kazan Watches and Wonders Day 2 started, thankfully, after a good night’s sleep. To this point, the effects of jetlag have been mostly pretty minimal, and waking up early, having a real breakfast, and starting the day on Swiss time in mind and body was certainly a positive development. Some people come to these shows, put in a full day of work, and party hard well into the evening, and frankly I’m not sure how those people survive the week while meeting deadlines.  I’ve learned that a nice thing that happens at an event like this is that a brand will inevitably surprise you, either with the watches they’re exhibiting, the presentation, or both. That happened today with TAG Heuer, who have introduced new Carreras that are more appealing than just about chronograph I’ve seen them release in the last three or four years. And that’s a lot of chronographs. Zach Weiss will have more on these tomorrow, but they’re an early favorite of the show for me. In person, they were so much stronger than I expected based on the brand supplied images. No...

Tudor open Geneva pop-up store to sell latest releases from Watches and Wonders Time+Tide
Tudor open Geneva pop-up store Mar 24, 2023

Tudor open Geneva pop-up store to sell latest releases from Watches and Wonders

As you’re probably aware, the world’s biggest watch fair, Watches and Wonders, starts on Monday. Hundreds of shiny, new timepieces will be revealed from some of the biggest brands around. But after the initial hullabaloo over these new releases dies down, if you actually want to buy one of the pieces, you can often face … ContinuedThe post Tudor open Geneva pop-up store to sell latest releases from Watches and Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New: H.Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar dressed in Tantalum Armour Deployant
H. Moser & Cie perpetual calendar Feb 25, 2023

New: H.Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar dressed in Tantalum Armour

The H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Armour is an exceptional timepiece that combines sophisticated design, intricate mechanics, and the unique properties of tantalum. This watch offers not only accurate timekeeping but also the ability to display the date and month with perpetual accuracy, making it a highly sought-after watch among collectors.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon: A Machine With Heart And Soul – Reprise Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Feb 16, 2023

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon: A Machine With Heart And Soul – Reprise

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon lives up to its name. It has a date, a chronograph, a perpetual calendar, and a tourbillon. But it has more: this watch has character. Assigning human traits to a cold machine is a – romantic – fool’s errand, but it’s also irresistible in the presence of a masterpiece. A. Lange & Söhne’s warmest watch is more than a machine with a heartbeat. It has soul.

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Green Aventurine SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Feb 4, 2023

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Green Aventurine

With at least two iterations launched since the model’s debut – first in enamel and then onyx – the Code 11.59 tourbillon is third time lucky with the latest version of the model being the most striking to date. The Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Flying Tourbillon Green Aventurine is in 18k pink gold with the centrepiece being the fired enamel dial dial containing crushed aventurine glass.  Initial thoughts Bold and contemporary appears to be the name of the game for Audemars Piguet, as the recent releases indicate a strong push of the Code 11.59 lineup refreshed with modernised and adventurous livery. And the new Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon delivers on that front – love it or hate it, it is a markedly distinct variation of its conservative predecessors. The green dial combined with the package of the pink gold case and black ceramic case middle offers a striking contrast that’s intriguing in person. Colour contrast Black ceramic is the recent trend for Audemars Piguet, as the brand has been increasingly using the material as the case middle for the Code 11.59 lineup. Sandwiched between a pink gold bezel and case back, the combination is a decidedly contemporary appearance especially when paired with the stock rubber strap. But of course, the appeal of the new model is the green aventurine dial. Made by firing crushed aventurine glass in an 800°C furnace, the dial glimmers and sparkles under the light. The green colour luxuriously contrasts the dial adornments...

LVMH Watch Week: Zenith expands their starry Defy Skyline universe with new skeleton and 36mm models Time+Tide
Zenith expands their starry Defy Jan 11, 2023

LVMH Watch Week: Zenith expands their starry Defy Skyline universe with new skeleton and 36mm models

The new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton replaces the recently discontinued Defy Classic Skeleton. The star-motif of the skeleton dial is now four-pointed instead of five-pointed.  New Skyline Skeleton has no date and moves 1/10th of a second counter from 9′ to more symmetrical 6′ position. New Skyline 36mm does not have a 1/10th of a second counter, … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: Zenith expands their starry Defy Skyline universe with new skeleton and 36mm models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1 Deployant
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Jan 7, 2023

New: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1

Overall, we find this to be an interesting watch with a legendary history, re-issued in a package which is faithful to the original, and yet modern and up to date. The aesthetics remain excellent, with the principles of a great dive watch as set out by Blancpain since the early 1950s being well respected. The most unique part of this release is the 42 mm watch case. This is an exclusive diameter, as no contemporary Fifty Fathoms has ever yet been offered in this size. Regular models measure 45 mm, while the usual limited-edition Fifty Fathoms has a 40 mm case.

Year in Review: Our Best Stories of 2022 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 (you... Dec 30, 2022

Year in Review: Our Best Stories of 2022

As we reflect on the past year, we’re proud of the stories we published and grateful for all of our readers – we appreciate you. Before the year closes, we want to revisit some of your favourite stories from 2022, from in-depth reviews of the most significant watches of the year to our fascinating conversations with thought leaders within the industry. Technical deep-dives Understanding of today’s most complex timepieces can be a challenge (even for us sometimes). But with our string of in-depth reviews, we aim to help the reader better appreciate these watches. Amongst the year’s highlights us two-part, in-depth examination of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 (you”ll find the second part here) with its highly skeletonised movement featuring a one-second remontoir and tourbillon mounted on the same axis. Another story with a substantial focus on Japanese watchmaking was an engineer’s perspective on quartz watches: a personal take on the complexities of the technology and why it can stand on par with the mechanical watches.  Understanding the symmetrical construction of the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon We also covered more conventional high-end watchmaking, but in our unique, detailed manner. We of course looked at the second-generation A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk, which received a major upgrade thanks to a revamped movement. And to help put the new Zeitwerk in context, we published a collector’s guide that compiles all the known var...

Why do Watches Use Sapphire Crystals? A Brief History and a Few Altern Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 12, 2022

Why do Watches Use Sapphire Crystals? A Brief History and a Few Altern

Watches differ greatly in their sizes, designs, capabilities, straps and bracelets, and even in the materials used to make their cases. The one element that nearly always seems to be present when we peruse watches’ specifications is the use of sapphire for the crystal (for the newest of newbies, that’s the round, glass window over the dial). Over a certain “luxury” price point, a sapphire crystal is not even seen as a benefit but the baseline standard, like tempered laminated glass in a car windshield. How did sapphire come to play this key supporting role in watch manufacturing, and what did watchmakers use before it came along? For that matter, what differentiates different types of sapphire crystals from each other? Which materials other than sapphire are still being used in the watch industry, and why? And is sapphire being used for anything else in horological circles besides crystals? What are the properties of sapphire? Believe it or not, that little lens over the dial of your watch is made from one of the hardest substances on Earth. It is one of two precious gemstones from the mineral variety corundum, the other being ruby. Corundum, a crystallized aluminum oxide, is clear in its purest state; sapphires and rubies receive their blue and red colors, respectively from impurities: traces of titanium, and iron in the former, and of chromium in the latter. Sapphire (above) has a ratio of 9 on the Mohs Hardness scale. Among minerals, only moissanite, a naturally...

Top 5 questions I get when people find out I’m a watch reviewer Time+Tide
Nov 6, 2022

Top 5 questions I get when people find out I’m a watch reviewer

There are a lot of unique jobs in the world, and careers are very rarely planned out accurately. The wristwatch world adopted me in a whirlwind, and I went from preferring not to wear a watch to writing for Time+Tide within the space of about a year. Even if you told me when I was … ContinuedThe post Top 5 questions I get when people find out I’m a watch reviewer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph Bronze Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph Nov 1, 2022

Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph Bronze Hands-on Review

Pros: Bold rugged designContrasting golden bronze case with the deep blue dial and bezelNumerous strap options as standard to interchange the look  Cons: The Nato strap makes it wear higher on the wrist, as not as flush as we would likeIt’s a larger watch so not for the faint of wrist Date wheel in white, not blue to blend in with the dial Overall Rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 7.5/10 Design: 9.0/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 Rado is one of those brands that does fly a little under the radar, in this writer’s opinion. They have always had good watches, and when it comes to different design materials, like ceramic, they’re up there with the best. I bought my wife a white Rado True Thinline in full ceramic about ten years ago, and it still looks as new as the day I bought it. She loves it and wears it all the time, and is quartz and keeps perfect time (until the battery goes dead, that is!) Which makes me think, why then do guys not think about Rado as they do other mainstream Swiss brands? Maybe it’s because they don’t put giant amounts into marketing with celebrities. Or maybe we’re all too caught up on the hype watches to look elsewhere? In any case, I’ve had the good fortune to try on a few Captain Cook variants this year, and I think Rado is a winner with this model line.   A Watch Line Named After An Adventurer For those that don’t know, the Captain Cook line goes back to 1962 and was aimed at doctors, engineers, athletes, deep sea di...

Microbrand watches you can actually buy that hold their value Time+Tide
Nov 1, 2022

Microbrand watches you can actually buy that hold their value

The extremes of microbrand watches are well documented. With hundreds if not thousands of new watches being released on Kickstarter every year, there is always a significant risk that even a successful campaign may wind up with the brand disappearing, along with your watch’s resale value. After all, when a watch is essentially just made … ContinuedThe post Microbrand watches you can actually buy that hold their value appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith and AFL superstar Buddy Franklin deliver a Defy Extreme watch for a very good cause Time+Tide
Zenith Nov 1, 2022

Zenith and AFL superstar Buddy Franklin deliver a Defy Extreme watch for a very good cause

The prices of luxury watches make collecting an expensive hobby. But the cost of these objects also have potential to help charitable causes as a result. Whenever I talk to high-end collectors – men like Kevin O’Leary from Shark Tank, for example – what they really want are things that are one of a kind. … ContinuedThe post Zenith and AFL superstar Buddy Franklin deliver a Defy Extreme watch for a very good cause appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Five of Ricardo’s favourites from Windup Watch Fair NYC 2022 Time+Tide
Oct 29, 2022

Five of Ricardo’s favourites from Windup Watch Fair NYC 2022

This past week, New York City became the centre of the watch world as it hosted two major watch events. One of those, Windup Watch Fair, was hosted by our friends over at Worn & Wound. Spread across 14,000 square feet, dozens of brands displayed their creations, offering guest first looks and a direct buying … ContinuedThe post Five of Ricardo’s favourites from Windup Watch Fair NYC 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.