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New: TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02T now in titanium with a blue dial
TAG adds to their successful chronograph tourbillon line with a new Heuer 02T model with a solid blue dial. blue ceramic bezel in titanium case and bracelet.
Results for Faraday Cage (Antimagnetic Case)
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Time+Tide
VIDEO: Bright candy dials meet carbon fibre in the new DOXA SUB 300 Carbon range
Thanks to the vintage looks of its steel case, the DOXA SUB 300 is a cult diver’s watch. But ever since the SUB 300 Aqualung US Divers in carbon fibre came out, its dark presence has haunted the dreams of DOXA fans (in a good way). Sleek and moody, the DOXA SUB 300 Carbon turns up … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Bright candy dials meet carbon fibre in the new DOXA SUB 300 Carbon range appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Studio Underd0g are smashing Kickstarter with a fresh sense of humour. We talk to their founder about making watches fun again
Studio Underd0g have a refreshingly playful approach to watchmaking. As the British microbrand explain on their website. “When the biggest news in the watch-world for 2020 is that a certain brand (that shall not be named) had increased their case size by an unfathomable 1mm it got us thinking… Why… so… serious…? Don’t worry, we … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Studio Underd0g are smashing Kickstarter with a fresh sense of humour. We talk to their founder about making watches fun again appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Sinn U50 S review: a contender for the best tool watch?
The new Sinn U50 S is at its heart the same dive watch like the U1 but thinner and smaller than before. As part of the U50 range, it comes in a PVD coated U50 S variant as shown here, or a regular steel colored U50 and the U50 SDR, steel case with contrasting PVD bezel.
Time+Tide
Dammit, I wasn’t supposed to buy this Sinn U1 DS, but I just did…
When we talk about what attracts people to watches, you may typically expect the response to be the movement. But when it comes to the larger marketplace, arguably the most important element, aside from case diameter, is the dial. The dial is what catches your eye first. As much as some people jest they would … ContinuedThe post Dammit, I wasn’t supposed to buy this Sinn U1 DS, but I just did… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Living With: Urwerk UR-100V T-Rex
The sixth variant of Urwerk’s entry-level model, the UR-100V T-Rex is classical Urwerk in form and complication. But the UR-100 in general is simpler and smaller than the average Urwerk, although the T-Rex is more extreme than the average Urwerk in terms of aesthetics. The heavy patina on the pronounced hobnail-milled case is primeval and lives up to its name. Urwerk lent me an example to wear for a couple of days – I was grateful especially since I got to compare it with the brand’s earlier, and heavier, models – and here’s how it went. The T-Rex of 2021 (left), next to the UR-103 of two decades ago Initial thoughts Reasonably compact, thin, and lightweight, the UR-100 is probably the most easily wearable Urwerk wristwatch to date. It’s also the closest to being a conventional watch – though it is still far from a conventional watch – which perhaps explains some of its wearability. And it is very wearable, particularly compared to precious-metal models. Not only is it light and manageable in size, the shape of the case back helps it sit better on the wrist. Being essentially the same watch, the T-Rex wears just as well as the other versions of the UR-100. Compared to most other Urwerk models, the UR-100 feels almost like an ordinary watch on the wrist. The recent UR-220 comes close because it is surprisingly lightweight, but it’s still a noticeably larger watch. And the T-Rex is equally as functional as other Urwerk watches with the satellite-disc time...
Quill & Pad
Down-To-Earth (Under $5,000) Wish List Including Breitling, Baume & Mercier, Tutima, Nomos Glashütte, and Seiko Presage – Reprise
In case you needed another reason for watch shopping (and Sabine doesn’t), a watch certainly would help you navigate that feeling of being lost in time. Here are five wallet-friendly suggestions that might just be the ultimate pick-me-up right now.
Time+Tide
This is why smart collectors are hunting the rare Chanel J12 3125 (ref. H2918)
The Chanel J12 has recently been overhauled by the brand to leverage a more unisex 38mm case size. In addition, its movement is now produced by Kenissi, the joint venture between Tudor, Breitling and Chanel – the latter owning a 20% stake in the movement manufacture. The movement inside the standard J12 today is therefore … ContinuedThe post This is why smart collectors are hunting the rare Chanel J12 3125 (ref. H2918) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
MB&F; HM9 Sapphire Vision: MAD Machines Under Glass
If ever a movement from MB&F; deserved to be on display it is that in the HM9 SV, which is decorated and colored in four different variations to create even more visual interest. The mechanical structure inside directs the almost organic sapphire crystal bubble case surrounding it, too. Which brings Joshua Munchow to the Hurst Hemi Under Glass.
Deployant
Hottest affordable watch: the Tissot PRX Review
The Tissot PRX is in a sweet spot of affordability and good looks. While the points mentioned, the lack of AR, misaligned seconds, uninteresting movement may deter some, the PRX is still a very convincing product. If anything, it has possibly the nicest looking case at this pricepoint from a mainstream brand today. It's rated at 100 m water resistance, but without a screwdown crown, it's best to use caution with submersible activities. Quartz is also refreshing for those sick and tired of inaccurate 6r35 movements or handwinding their 2801 based Hamiltons.
SJX Watches
Sinn’s Submarine-Steel Dive Watch Gets a Patina Dial
Known for its utilitarian “tool” watches, Sinn’s latest is a variation on its bestselling dive watch. The U1 DS is a limited-edition rendition of the brand’s dive watch that’s best known for having a case made from the same steel alloy as German navy submarines. Limited to 500 pieces, the U1 DS features a dial that has been lapped to achieve a seemingly worn-out finish, whilst retaining the famed robustness that characterises the U1. The combination is a juxtaposition of an aged dial and a case that will likely never show any wear. Initial thoughts The U1 DS is a clear winner in my books. The dial’s battle-scarred look suits the submarine-inspired genesis of the U1, which has long had a military feel, despite not being a military-issue watch (though Sinn did made a special edition for a special-forces unit of the German military). Despite the new finish, the U1 retains its trademark legibility. The randomly-scratched texture does not detract from readability or the distinctive U1 dial design. Its signature block-shaped hands and hour markers remain prominent. Though it’s an uncommon look, Sinn has been using this randomly-textured finish frequently of late. The finish was first used in 2019 on the 356 Fliegerchronograph for Singapore retailer The Hour Glass, and then last year on the EZM3.F.V. that was only sold in Japan. The patina finish remains rare, but not quite as rare as it seems to be. The Japan-only EZM3.F.V. Despite being a limited edition, the U...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Introducing The New Sinn U1 DS – To Celebrate 60 Years, Sinn Does The Unthinkable
How do you celebrate 60 years? By scratching the piss out of a steel dial, encasing it in a near indestructible case, and selling it to the public. Obviously.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Debuts the GMT “Seasons” Collection
A simple but bestselling complication for Grand Seiko, the dual-time zone GMT received a makeover for Seiko’s 140th anniversary. The result is a quartet of GMT watches that evoke the changing landscapes in Japan as the seasons change. Made up of both Hi-Beat and Spring Drive models, the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Seasons” all share the same classically-styled case that has been associated with the GMT since the very first model. Each of the four watches is inspired by specific phases of each season. In East Asian cultures, each of the four seasons is further divided into six phases – known as 節気, or sekki, in Japan – to capture the subtle changes within a season. Each of the new GMT models is inspired by a sekki from each season. Consequently, the watches are each distinct in colours and finish, having inspiration as varied as green-cherry trees to the dark, moonlit sky. The GMT “Shunbun” SBGJ251 Initial thoughts The quartet exemplifies the style of modern-day Grand Seiko, especially in the splendid dials that translate the local landscape into intricate stamped patterns. And the cases are elegantly shaped but solid, and finished with Zaratsu flat polishing that is synonymous with Grand Seiko. Because all four watches are powered by longstanding movements – instead of the latest-generation 9SA5 that costs a lot more – the prices are all in line with existing models, US$6,300 for the Spring Drive GMT and US$7,100 for Hi-Beat automatics. Though ...
WatchAdvice
2021 Panerai Submersible 42mm PAM00683 Review
Pros: Smaller wrist sizes can now enjoy Panerai Adjusting time on the go is super easyThe rubber strap is comfortable on the wrist Cons: Some may appreciate an open case-backNo in-house movement Some may find the pricing to be expensive Overall Rating: 7.8/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 8/10Design – 8/10Build Quality – 8/10 Released back in 2019 during the SIHH convention, the Panerai Luminor Submersible 42 was a breath of fresh air for dive watch enthusiasts and watch lovers who didn’t want to wear oversized watches. Panerai’s flagship diver model is arguably the PAM1389, which measures at a staggering 47mm case size. PAM00683 In 2016, however, the brand decided to release their first small divers watch, the Panerai Submersible 682. This was a very simplistic timepiece with a date and sub-counter on a black dial featuring a stainless steel bezel. More importantly, the watch came in a much more wearable 42mm case size. Fast-forward to 2019, Panerai released two different colourways for the Panerai Submersible 682, one of which is what we have for review today. The PAM00683 features much of the same characteristics that the 2016 Submersible 682 had, with the exception being new bezel colour, and more colour on the dial. PAM00683 Case: The case that the PAM00683, or better known as Luminor Submersible 42 Black Ceramic, comes in is a 42mm stainless steel case with a steel bezel with ceramic black insert. It should be noted that the giant crown gua...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Mid-Century Movado Chronographs
Every time you read a story about the ocean, there’s a good chance you’ll see that it is “95% unexplored”, or “we know more about the surface of the moon than of the seafloor”. As most tropes go, they are as annoying as they are true, and in this case they’re also an apt metaphor for vintage watch knowledge. While the details of vintage Patek Philippe and Rolex have been mapped down to their going trains, numerous brands remain relatively uncharted – a Marianas Trench’s of knowledge awaiting exploration. Midcentury Movado chronographs lie squarely at those depths; let’s dive in. As we arrive at the door of our submersible, we must first acknowledge those who have assembled taxonomies of this scantly-explored abyss: the late Fritz van Osterhausen, author of The Movado History, and the excellent M95 chronograph reference the e-newsletter Rescapement published a few years ago. Using their ballast - no, I haven’t run out of nautical metaphors yet - we hope to fathom yet further. Today, we’ll peer into with what many consider the pinnacle of Movado collecting, its exceptionally-cased midcentury chronographs. History Until the 21st century, Swiss watch production was predominantly a cottage industry. Specialists manufactured the case, dial, or ebauche (movement blank), and peddled their wares to as many brands as possible. While final products were modified to brand specifications, family traits are easily discernible across marques that shared sup...
Revolution
Introducing Greubel Forsey’s New GMT Quadruple Tourbillon
With new shades of blue and some aesthetic rework of the case and dial, the astounding piece offers a more sporty and relaxed flair.
SJX Watches
IWC Revives the Fliegerchronograph Ceramic 3705
Perhaps the most widely leaked recent launch, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705” is a remake of the uncommon, ceramic-case Fliegerchronograph of 1994. Available only online via IWC’s web store, the Tribute to 3705 reproduces the look of the original, but in a larger case made of Ceratanium, essentially a titanium-ceramic composite. And the movement is the in-house cal. 69380. Initial thoughts Possessing the clear, functional style of IWC’s first-generation pilot’s watches, the original 3705 was a good looking watch. Being a pretty faithful remake, the Tribute to 3705 is almost as attractive. A little of the original’s proportions have been lost – the hour hand on the remake looks a bit short – but the Tribute to 3705 is appealing. And it’s also an upgrade with the new case material as well as the in-house movement, which enhances the appeal. It is, however, expensive at US$11,900. That’s 20% more pricey than the Top Gun “SFTI” chronograph, which has a ceramic case and the same movement. No doubt conceived to capitalise on desirability of the original 3705 – an example once owned by former IWC chief executive Gunter Blumlein sold for a little under US$54,000 in 2018 – the Tribute to 3705 will be sold exclusively online via IWC.com. That makes the project feel a little opportunistic, since it means IWC will retain almost all of the margin on the watch, instead of having to split it with a third-party retailer or even a...
Revolution
Introducing IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705”
IWC’s New Fliegerchronograph takes inspiration from the Iconic “Black Flieger” from the mid-1990’s, but upgrades the ceramic case to groundbreaking Ceratanium, and an in-house movement.
Quill & Pad
Garrick S4: Added Value At A More Affordable Price
The new S4, the fourth iteration of Garrick's S line of models, also represents a solid effort to add as much value as possible to the brand's watches while making them more accessible to collectors at large. And don't miss the artistic prowess visible through the case back!
SJX Watches
Living With: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”
When Zenith first took the covers off the Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” in the middle of last year, my immediate reaction was “That’s a super cool-looking watch.” Unlike its fellow remakes like the A384 and A386, or the more recent A385, the Shadow isn’t a replica of an actual vintage watch Zenith produced in its heyday before the Quartz Crisis. While the Shadow was inspired by a 1970 prototype with a black-coated case that never made it into production, the Shadow is very much a modern design. It imagines what a vintage A384 might have been, had it been released in all-black livery in the 1970s. Compared to Zenith’s recent vintage-inspired watches, most of which are faithful remakes, the Shadow is a breath of fresh air. So when Zenith offered the chance for me to spend a couple of days with the watch, I seized it. The El Primero A384 Revival that’s a faithful remake of the vintage original Initial thoughts I had a visceral reaction when I first strapped on the Shadow: my heart sang, and a smile crept onto my face. I was struck by how different it looked on the wrist; distinct not only from the other El Primero chronographs, but against other offerings at the same price point. In fact, it looked to me more like a Bamford collaboration rather than a standard model. On the wrist, the Shadow stands out in a subtle but striking manner, especially to a watch enthusiast. Anyone who knows Zenith will understand that’s an A384, but different. Reductive desig...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Sinn R500 Chronograph
Announced just a few months ago, the R500 Chronograph was unexpected for Sinn. Retro and funky at the same time, the R500 departs from the typical Sinn fare of no-nonsense, aviation-instrument watches. The R500 is straight out of the 1970s in style, with a hockey-puck case that has the pushers and crown at 12 o’clock, a retro configuration often known as “bullhead”. But like all Sinn watches, the R500 is a big, robust, and functional timepiece. The diametrically opposite blend of retro fun and tangible seriousness lies behind the R500’s appeal. Initial thoughts Though best known for their utilitarian, and almost military, style, Sinn sometimes creates novel designs, often for specific markets, like the many limited editions made for Japan. But such watches are mostly out of reach for the average buyer, if for nothing but geography and logistics. The R500, on the other hand, is a limited edition available at Sinn retailers globally, but is also different enough from the brand’s usual watches to make it interesting, especially with the retro “bullhead” layout matched with red and green accents on the power reserve scale. And the R500 is also unusual in being titanium, instead of steel, which is the metal most commonly used for Sinn watch cases. The handful of titanium watches that Sinn offers are also mostly dive watches. In fact, the only intrinsic downside of the R500 is the strap, which is a perfect fit in terms of design, but stiff on the wrist and also dif...
SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Avigation BigEye Titanium
When Longines first remade a 1970s pilot’s chronograph as the Avigation BigEye Chronograph, it was well received for being a faithful re-interpretation priced affordably, as most other Longines reissues are. While the 2017 model was a dead ringer for the vintage original, Longines has just facelifted the watch, giving it a titanium case and gradient blue dial. That gives the Avigation BigEye Titanium more modern look, which along with the upgraded case, results in a steeper price that’s about a quarter more than that of the steel model. Initial thoughts Longines has been hitting it out of the park with its recent remakes – the Silver Arrow, Classic “Tuxedo” Chronograph, and Heritage Classic “Sector” Dial – that are smartly designed and good value, and despite the hike in price, BigEye Titanium is no exception. While the steel BigEye had a utilitarian look like the 1970s original, the titanium version is decidedly more contemporary. The gradient blue dial is bold, and also fashionable today, with a sandblasted texture adding further visual intrigue. I like the juxtaposition of the black sub-dials against the blue gradient finish, though the faux patina on the hands and indices might be a bit too affected, especially with the modern look. Despite the tweaks, the BigEye Titanium retains the same legible design, thus preserving the historical raison d’etre of its design. Another notable feature is the titanium case, which makes the new BigEye the brand...
Deployant
Review: Bovet Dimier Récital 29 – Balancing Luxury and Restraint
We bring you the low-down and our honest thoughts on the Bovet Dimier Récital 29, the first of the series to have a stainless steel case.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Was the Baltic Aquascaphe GMT the freshest microbrand travel watch of 2020?
No, not another GMT?! Well, what if we tell you that this is a 39mm piece of vintage-inspired perfection with a goldilocks-sized 38mm case and a slightly wider bezel. And that its colours are as F.R.E.S.H as only the French can make them. If you know Baltic already, you might say that this is a … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Was the Baltic Aquascaphe GMT the freshest microbrand travel watch of 2020? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Co-Axial Master Chronometer 2021
Omega released the latest update to the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional chronograph early this year with some much appreciated upgrades. Several changes were made to the dial and case, but most notably, the movement is now co-axial and anti-magnetic. For speedy owners, a magnetised Speedmaster happens once ever so often and can be quite a pain sometimes. Apart from its technical improvement, the new iteration also features several design updates to the dial and case.
WatchAdvice
2021 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date Review
Pros: Graduated shades of intense blues on the dialA real joy to see the redesigned calibre 899 on the case back ISO 6425 complaint proper ‘diving’ watch Cons: Some may not be fans of the screw-in internal Bezel 42mm case size will wear large on wrists smaller than 6.5 inchesSome may find it pricey Overall Rating: 8.1/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 8/10Design – 8.5/10Build Quality – 8.5/10 Reference : 9068180 Late last year in October 2020, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Polaris Mariner for their Polaris collection. The Polaris Mariner is a range of high-performing diving watches that pay homage to the brand’s diving legacy and almost 100 years of knowledge and expertise on chiming watches. Jaeger-LeCoultre has introduced two watches to their sporty and elegant Polaris collection; the Polaris Mariner Memovox and Polaris Mariner Date. What we have on our hands today is the classic diving piece the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date. Case: Reference : 9068180 The case on the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date is as close as it gets to the vintage 1968 Memovox Polaris. This 1968 model was the first true diving watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre, which included an internal rotating bezel, an alarm, and a triple-layer case-back for better sound transmission. With the latest Polaris Mariner Date model, the alarm and sound transmission mechanisms have been left out for the Memovox model, with the Mariner Date being the simple yet classic diving...
Time+Tide
Sex, vodka and a gold watch – when Marlon Brando met Zsa Zsa Garbor
It was Socrates who suggested that “the male libido is like being chained to a madman”. In Marlon Brando’s case, he was shackled to a veritable asylum. Married three times with two long-term partners, cosy domesticity wasn’t really his “thing”. This, after all was a guy who met his penultimate long-term girlfriend during a threesome … ContinuedThe post Sex, vodka and a gold watch – when Marlon Brando met Zsa Zsa Garbor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces the Ultra-Luxe Luminor Marina Platinumtech PAM 1116
After not having had a platinum model in the catalogue for some time, Panerai is returning to the lustrous and heavy metal with the Platinumtech Luminor Marina PAM01116. But the case of the PAM 1116 is not conventional, PT950 platinum alloy used in most wristwatches, instead it is an extra-hard alloy with better wear resistance. And like many of Panerai’s recent top-of-the-line models, the Platinumtech Luminor boasts a 70-year warranty – which is double emphasised by an oversized emblem on the sapphire back. Initial thoughts Panerai’s recent launches have leaned towards lightweight alloys or composites, which makes the Platinumtech Luminor unusual. The brand has made platinum watches in the distant past – in both Radiomir and Luminor format – and they were always impressively heavy watches with a heft that matched their price tag. The new Platinumtech Luminor is doubtlessly just as impressive in tangible feel, and it is also helped by the olive-green dial that’s unconventional but attractive. The watch is accompanied by an impressive 70-year warranty, but it feels more like a gimmick than something of practical value. Aside from the decades that stretch beyond the lifetime of most living buyers, the movement inside the watch is a straightforward calibre that doesn’t need a 70-year warranty (which is probably why it’s viable for Panerai to offer one in the first place). The Platinumtech Luminor is expensive for a contemporary Panerai, though not all tha...
Quill & Pad
Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Triple Retrograde: Great Looks And Excellent Value
Maurice Lacroix has been making a big comeback over the last few years and, as Martin Green explains, this is largely thanks to offering excellent watches at very competitive prices. Watches like the new Masterpiece Triple Retrograde, which exudes quality and has a smile-inducing case and dial.
SJX Watches
Insight: Patents in Watchmaking
Patents in watchmaking are often brushed over by the brand themselves, except when tallying them in marketing material. But they are important, and can be foundational to a brand, as George Daniels’ famed co-axial escapement is synonymous with Omega. But there is a great deal more in watchmaking that can be protected with a patent than a lubrication-free escapement. A large proportion of the parts that make up a watch – from case materials to time-display mechanisms – can be patented, and often are. That begs the question: what exactly can be patented? The common obstacle encountered by a would-be inventor is that patents are notoriously difficult to secure, especially if applied for without specialist help. Going from application to approval of a patent often requires several years, and approval is not a certainty. Gaining a patent hinges on three criteria: the invention in question must be new, non-obvious, and useful. Beyond the necessary knowledge of prior inventions – in order to prove the patent-pending idea is new – the incredibly specific wording required for patents can be daunting to an independent applicant, so it usually falls to a patent attorney to lead the application process. But patents can be lucrative for an inventor, especially for an innovation targeted at the consumer, which is why new patents are registered every day. The United States Patent and Trademark Office, for instance, received just under 670,000 patent applications in 2019, and gr...