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Pie Pan Dial Omega

Faceted multi-level dial designed by Pierre Vibert for the 1952 Omega Constellation; modern Globemaster reissue.

Just Because: The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback Next To Some Classics From Patek Philippe And A. Lange & Söhne Hodinkee
A. Lange & Sohne 1815 Chronograph just so Apr 24, 2026

Just Because: The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback Next To Some Classics From Patek Philippe And A. Lange & Söhne

Ask people about the most exciting thing they saw at Watches and Wonders, and I'm willing to bet that a few people might just mention something that wasn't even at the show, but rather tucked away in Old Town—the new Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback. And you know what? That's understandable. I mean, the new RRCHF has been the talk of the town since its introduction earlier this month, marking the first release from Rexhepi and his brand in literal years. Years in which the brand has continued to climb in legend, desirability, and hype, thanks to the growing recognition of Rexhepi's previous Akrivia line of watches, as well as icons like the Chronomètre Contemporain I and II. If you came here looking for a lengthy read about the new chronograph, I'll steer you instead to Ben's original article covering the release, which has plenty of words that encapsulate everything around the watch and the history leading up to it. And not to spoil anything, but Mark's working on a deeper, hands-on look at the new watch, hitting Hodinkee this summer. So, during our visit last week to Rexhepi's Atelier Akrivia, we decided to do something fun and expand on Ben's initial write-up, which compares the RRCHF to two iconic, high-end, hand-wound chronographs that seem most similar to the RRCHF in the vein of a classically designed chronograph. So we brought along a Patek Philippe 5170P, as well as an A. Lange & Sohne 1815 Chronograph, just so I could shoot them alongside Rexhepi's chronogra...

Hands On: Imaginative Automata from Jacob & Co. SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. It Apr 24, 2026

Hands On: Imaginative Automata from Jacob & Co.

It is somewhat counterintuitive to think that New York-based jeweller Jacob & Co. is one of the fastest growing brands in the mostly stagnant Swiss watch industry. In fact, Jacob & Co. is now a watchmaker first and a jeweller second by turnover – watches account for 75% of the brand’s revenue today. This success is party due to the brand’s open-minded approach to movement making and the surprising (and often risky) projects it has produced, from the first 31-day wristwatch in 2006 to the world’s fastest tourbillon in 2026. One of Jacob & Co.’s specialties is dial-side automata - micro-mechanical sculptures that that can be activated on demand. Alongside the launch of the flagship Godfather II, Jacob & Co. expanded its range of automata watches with new sapphire editions of the Bugatti Tourbillon, a malachite-dialled Casino, and new editions of the provocative Oil Pump. The Bugatti Tourbillon Sapphire Jacob & Co. is not the first watch brand to collaborate with celebrated carmaker Bugatti, but the collaboration is more than a mere commercial tie-up. In fact, the two companies share a manufacturing partner - Concepto - a La Chaux-de-Fonds-based specialist in components and white-label movements. Bugatti enlisted Concepto to produce the fully analogue instrument cluster of its latest hypercar - the aptly named Tourbillon. This was a delightful return to tactility in a world of digital displays and ubiquitous touchscreens. This three-way collaboration contin...

Introducing: De Bethune DB25Vxs Silver Moon And DB28xs Dark Sand Hodinkee
De Bethune DB25Vxs Silver Moon Apr 21, 2026

Introducing: De Bethune DB25Vxs Silver Moon And DB28xs Dark Sand

What We Know While not at Watches and Wonders this year, De Bethune was one of a number of brands jumping on the release bandwagon this week with a few new versions. Today, we're taking a look at two new pieces from the brand. De Bethune's DB25Vxs Silver Moon keeps some of the brand's futuristic design with the skeletonized lugs, while DB28xs Dark Sand picks up where the brand's DB28xs "Steel Wheels" left off. Let's start with the slightly more traditional watch first. The DB25Vxs Silver Moon trims the DB25L case size down to 40mm and changes the dial around a bit. It's been 17 years since the DB25L came out, so it was time for an update. The watch features a mirrored blued-titanium surround with gold stars, drawing the eye to the mirror-polished steel and blued-titanium spherical moonphase at 12 o'clock, which is accurate to 1 day every 122 years. The domed outer track features printed, slightly dressy Breguet numerals and a minute track for the gold hour and minute hands (in Breguet style as well) while the central dial features a barleycorn guilloché. Inside the 40.6mm by 11.2mm mirror-polished grade 5 titanium case is a caliber running at 4Hz with a 6-day power reserve. While a lot of my friends gravitate more toward that traditional aesthetic from De Bethune, my eyes immediately go for the more extreme De Bethunes, like the DB28xs Dark Sand, with the hinged lugs and (yes, somewhat divisive) arch design on the front. The DB28xs Dark Sand also has a 6-day power reserve...

Watches & Wonders: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reintroduces the Master Control Collection and their “HPG” Designation Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reintroduces Apr 20, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reintroduces the Master Control Collection and their “HPG” Designation

In addition to a barrage of ultra high end novelties, Jaeger-LeCoultre this week has introduced the new Master Control Chronometre collection, with a focus on chronometric elegance with watches featuring a sleek new integrated bracelet sports watch design. Jaeger-LeCoultre has a long history, of course, of not just pure movement making and horology, but in providing certainty behind their movements through the Master Control collection, which was a testing certification conducted in-house over 1,000 hours. The Master Control Chronometre collection continues that tradition while also filling a gap in the brand’s catalog: a (relatively) accessible everyday watch that is not a Reverso.  Before getting into the watches themselves, we’ll start with an overview of what “Master Control” really means in 2026. This collection reintroduces the brand’s “High Precision Guarantee” designation, which is an update of an old standard first used on JLC’s Calibre 916, their renowned 4 Hz caliber introduced in 1970. The new HPG designation evaluates performance across four metrics: altitude (certifying that the watch can withstand pressure up to 1004 meters above sea level, the altitude of the JLC manufacture), multi-directional shocks, testing in multiple positions, and variances across temperature. Jaeger-LeCoultre has developed new machinery to test for these conditions, which the brand says can simulate real world use over a long duration in just three days of actual tes...

Venezianico Introduces the Arsenale Calendario Worn & Wound
Venezianico Introduces Apr 20, 2026

Venezianico Introduces the Arsenale Calendario

Fresh off the nonstop excitement of Watches & Wonders, it’s easy to ignore any releases that occur outside of the Geneva city limits. The spring is still young, though, and there are still plenty of exciting launches to go in 2026. In that vein, Italian brand Venezianico is doubling down on their mission of Italian-made mechanical timepieces with the new Arsenale Calendario duo, inspired by the Arsenale di Venezia, the world’s oldest shipyard. The Arsenale collection isn’t brand new: the Meteorite model touched on space as a theme, and the Bizantino and Sumi-e watches took more decorative, artistic approaches. The Calendario, though, draws from what Venezianico calls “the architecture of time”. Basically, it adds new complications-a complete calendar, a power-reserve indicator, and a day-night indicator-to emphasize the passing of time in a material way.  In terms of basic dimensions, the Calendario sits within a 316L stainless steel case with a satin finish, and measures in at 40mm in diameter and 44mm lug-to-lug. It’s not exactly thin at 9.6mm of thickness, and the double-domed sapphire adds another 1.4mm on the top, giving it a solid presence despite the dress watch-adjacent design. A knurled stainless steel bezel and screw-down crown at 3 o’clock add texture to the case, and further emphasize the depth of the sunburst dial, which is available in two colorways: burgundy red and blue. These are not subtle shades, and the concentric texture of the dial ...

Introducing - The Hand-Engraved Grand Seiko 44GS Mystic Waterfall SBGZ011 Monochrome
Grand Seiko 44GS Mystic Waterfall SBGZ011 Apr 18, 2026

Introducing - The Hand-Engraved Grand Seiko 44GS Mystic Waterfall SBGZ011

Nature is a cornerstone of Japanese culture and a predominant theme at Grand Seiko. Even the settings of the Japanese brand’s manufactures are intentionally studied to inspire the takumi (artisans). Hailing from Grand Seiko’s haute horlogerie Micro Artist Studio in Shiojiri, the Japanese brand releases a high-end Masterpiece SBGZ011 in platinum, in a hand-engraved 44GS case and […]

Live from WWG26: new releases from Hermes Deployant
Hermes DEPLOYANT - Apr 17, 2026

Live from WWG26: new releases from Hermes

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors We are next at Hermès, and here are our highlights from their novelties for WWG26, with our hands-on remarks. Each year, Hermès introduces what they call mysterious mechanisms. This year, they focus on the theme of puppetry the H08 Squelette. The first time a skeleton dial and movement is fitted on the now iconic H08 [...] The post Live from WWG26: new releases from Hermes appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

Live from WWG26: highlight of the new releases from IWC Deployant
IWC DEPLOYANT - Apr 17, 2026

Live from WWG26: highlight of the new releases from IWC

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors For this year, IWC released several novelties, including the Big Pilot Petit Prince and the big novelty is the space Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive. A very clear dial layout which is of the Pilot’s Vertical Drive is built from the ground up. The closed case back is a design choice to make the watch as [...] The post Live from WWG26: highlight of the new releases from IWC appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

Is Tudor’s Revamped Royal Collection Actually their Best Watches & Wonders Release? Worn & Wound
Tudor s Revamped Royal Collection Apr 17, 2026

Is Tudor’s Revamped Royal Collection Actually their Best Watches & Wonders Release?

As is always the case with Tudor, it seems that the internet is divided on their major new Watches & Wonders releases in the days after their unveiling. But while comments are volleyed back and forth on whether the of the Black Bay 54 Blue is actually too purple, or the Monarch should have been smaller, one new release that actually might be kind of perfect is going under the radar.  Ok, “perfect” could be overstating it, but the newly relaunched Tudor Royal really impressed me. If there’s a “most improved” award to be handed out to a collection, the Royal might grab it.  There are three sizes, 30mm, 36mm, and 40mm, all with manufacture calibers for the first time in the collection. The 40mm Royal has a day-date indication that is similar (identical, really) to the execution of the day-date on the Rolex Day-Date. All of the movements (MT5201, MT5412 and MT5633) are chronometer certified.  Aesthetically, these are integrated bracelet sports watches that veer more toward the elegant end of the sports watch spectrum. Long a staple for Tudor in the Asian market, they’re looking to expand the Royal’s reach this year with some very noticeable finishing improvements. The bezel in particular is very nicely executed, with sharp notches and a very high polish that works particularly well on the two tone models, where it is rendered in gold.  I think another factor working in Tudor’s favor with respect to the Royal is the current broad acceptance of smaller watche...

Introducing: The Venezianico Arsenale Calendario Fratello
Venezianico Arsenale Calendario It’s been Apr 17, 2026

Introducing: The Venezianico Arsenale Calendario

It’s been a big week here in Geneva, but we’re not done yet! Venezianico, the Venice-based brand, has brought a new take on its popular integrated-bracelet model, the Arsenale. Until now, there have been several options for case materials, dial composition, and a choice of two or three hands. Now, for the first time, we […] Visit Introducing: The Venezianico Arsenale Calendario to read the full article.

Introducing - Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Mechanica Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Mechanica Ultra Apr 17, 2026

Introducing - Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Mechanica Ultra Thin Minute Repeater

When it was unveiled in 2014, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Calibre 362 stunned the horological world as the slimmest automatic minute repeater with a tourbillon regulator. For 2026, Jaeger revisits its high-complication masterpiece with the new Master Hybris Mechanica Ultra Thin Minute Repeater, a ten-piece limited edition with an openworked dial reaffirming the Maison’s dominance in chiming mechanisms, […]

Live from WWG26: Panerai new releases Deployant
Panerai new releases DEPLOYANT - Apr 17, 2026

Live from WWG26: Panerai new releases

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Our next session is with Panerai, and WWG26, here is our hands-on impressions of the highlights. The booth had a large tank filled with water, called the Vasca Panerai, and was used by the Italian Navy for testing the watches. This year, they explored three themes, viz Historic, Innovative materials and power reserve. Back to [...] The post Live from WWG26: Panerai new releases appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

Tudor’s Classic Black Bay 58 Gets an Update SJX Watches
Tudor s Classic Black Bay Apr 17, 2026

Tudor’s Classic Black Bay 58 Gets an Update

Tudor’s bestseller just got a new update. The new Black Bay 58 builds upon last year’s burgundy version, coming in the beloved black dial with gilt accents configuration. Not only did the iconic vintage-inspired diver get slimmer and better proportioned, but it also come with a choice of three different straps. Initial thoughts Ever since Tudor was rejuvenated the brand became almost synonymous with the well-built and equally well-styled Black Bay collection. The model line grew to include various complications, from GMT functions to chronographs all while retaining the core vintage-coded aesthetic.  This streamlined “BB58” format was first introduced in 2024 with the Black Bay 58 GMT. The watch featured sleeker case proportions, a METAS-certified movement and a slimmer, more practical crown.  A burgundy version of the time-only Black Bay then followed and now Tudor adapts arguably their most iconic configuration to this updated format.  Due to its proportions, overall construction and colour scheme the watch strongly resembles the vintage Rolex Ref. 6538. The watch was famously worn by Sean Connery’s James Bond in the first ever Bond movie, Dr. No. Tudor’s new case proportions work so well with the vintage-inspired black and gilt dial that the new reference is guaranteed to be a big hit with Bond fans.  Notably, the new Black Bay 58 comes with a choice of two steel bracelets and a rubber strap. Apart from the Oyster-inspired faux-rivet three-link bracelet ...

Introducing - Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Platinum Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Apr 16, 2026

Introducing - Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Platinum

A year after Piaget broke the record for the thinnest tourbillon with its 2mm Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon, Bulgari, following its decade-long pursuit of ultra-thin watchmaking, unveiled the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon in titanium, now the world’s thinnest flying tourbillon at just 1.85mm. The new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Platinum edition does not aim to break […]

Introducing - The New Grand Seiko SBGY043 Iwao Blue Monochrome
Grand Seiko SBGY043 Iwao Blue Apr 16, 2026

Introducing - The New Grand Seiko SBGY043 Iwao Blue

The Grand Seiko Elegance Collection is home to some of the brand’s most restrained and poetic creations. Models such as the Omiwatari, Karasawa, and other hand-wound Spring Drive references demonstrate how minimalism, texture, and mechanical refinement can coexist. The new SBGY043 Iwao Blue keeps the successful, elegant formula that made earlier editions so attractive and […]

Vacheron Constantin Wanders to the Four Corners of Earth SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Wanders Apr 16, 2026

Vacheron Constantin Wanders to the Four Corners of Earth

Vacheron Constantin unveiled the Overseas Dual Time “Cardinal Points”, a four-watch collection which can be traced back to the prototype that accompanied Cory Richards on his climb on Everest back in 2019. Initial thoughts The Overseas collection is Vacheron Constantin’s own take on the luxury sports steel watch. Compared to similar offerings from Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin actively advertises the Overseas as a timepiece fit to be worn adventurously. The 2019 collaboration with photographer and climber Cory Richards proved that the Overseas Dual Time is as comfortable on the peaks of Everest as it is navigating boardrooms.  This “Cardinal Points” collection refines and finishes the the Dual Time prototype piece from 2019.  The four new references each come in a different colour scheme evocative of one cardinal point. The functional styling of the Everest prototype was kept intact, but the additional dial colours help the Dual Time appeal to a broader audience.  According to Vacheron Constantin, the white suggests the icy North, brown evokes the fertile lands of the South, green represents West with its forests and finally blue signifies the Eastern line of the horizon. Although these associations might feel a bit forced, the idea of linking the Overseas Dual Time with the cardinal points stems from the fact that such a travel watch usually accompanies a traveler - who is at least symbolically guided by a compass and the cardinal p...

Live from WWG26: new releases of Piaget Deployant
Piaget DEPLOYANT - Apr 16, 2026

Live from WWG26: new releases of Piaget

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors We got our hands on with our favourites from Piaget this WWG26, and here are the highlights. First up the Piaget Polo Signature, now the release with a stone solalite dial. The dial is made in gold with the gadroons which is inspired by the original Piaget Polo. Then the sodalite, a hard stone is [...] The post Live from WWG26: new releases of Piaget appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

Introducing - The Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic, a Slimmer and More Refined Update Monochrome
Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic Apr 16, 2026

Introducing - The Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic, a Slimmer and More Refined Update

When Alpina showcased the Startimer back in 2011, it revisited its early 20th-century pilot’s watches. A part of the catalogue ever since, the appeal was simple. Clear cockpit styling, solid specifications, and a price that did not push things too far. At the centre of this collection sits the Startimer Pilot Automatic, the uncomplicated three-hander […]

First Look - The New Bremont Altitude Chronograph Pulsograph Valjoux 23 Monochrome
Bremont Altitude Chronograph Pulsograph Valjoux Apr 16, 2026

First Look - The New Bremont Altitude Chronograph Pulsograph Valjoux 23

Following CEO Davide Cerrato’s arrival in 2023, many Bremont fans feared that the strong aviation, tool-watch spirit of its founders, the English brothers, would be diluted. Released in 2025, the redesigned Altitude Collection, an evolution of the hyper-resilient Martin-Baker (MB) pilot watches with Trip-Tick cases, proved otherwise. In a move bound to win over collectors, Bremont […]

Tudor Ascends the Throne with the Monarch SJX Watches
Tudor Ascends Apr 15, 2026

Tudor Ascends the Throne with the Monarch

Tudor celebrates 100 years with the surprising Monarch. Historically one of the more obscure models in the brand’s catalogue, the earlier generation of Monarch was retired in the early 2000s. Now the name makes its return, but in an entirely different form, with the latest iteration bearing an unexpected emphasis on movement finishing and quality – with a display back that shows off Tudor’s first-ever decorated in-house movement. Initial Thoughts It is no secret that Tudor had its fair share of hit and misses in terms of design, especially during the 1990s. The original Monarch arguably fell into the latter category as an unfortunate blend of sporty and elegant design elements, which resulted in a rather unappealing and mostly forgotten product.  The new Monarch, on the other hand, has almost nothing to do with his ancestor, save for the name. The new timepiece reimagines the beloved if quirky California dial, improves greatly in terms of movement finishing and manages to blend well both classy and sporty elements.    At first sight one might be tempted to assume the Monarch is a dress timepiece, but elements like the metal link bracelet, angular overall profile and screw-down crown give it a sporty, rugged edge.  Tudor made an interesting choice with the dial colour, going for a brushed sand-hued piece paired with black applied indices. The California configuration paired with the small seconds at six o’clock is dressy, but the angular case makes for a thoroug...