Hodinkee
Watching Movies: Sam Worthington Joins The Na’vi And Leaves His Casio Behind In ‘Avatar’
Our watch-related movie of the week takes a familiar digital watch into the 22nd century.
Results for Equation of Time
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Hodinkee
Teddy Baldassarre
15 Rugged Watches, From Under $300 to $10,000+
Some occasions call for a suit, some for jeans, khakis, and t-shirts. Some events demand a dressy watch, others a tough, rugged watch that can take a beating. If the latter style of timepiece is what you're in the market for lately, check out our list of 15 tough, rugged watches (in ascending order of price) that not only boast impressive levels of functionality, reliability, and resistance to extreme depths, temperatures, and shocks, but also look very stylish on the wrist. Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Diver 200m Price: $280, Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 11.6mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Citizen Eco-Drive E168 Citizen unveiled its Promaster line of professional-grade sports watches in 1989 and its Promaster Diver models - equipped with the Japanese brand’s proprietary Eco-Drive technology, which uses light to perpetually charge the movement - have proven to be among the most popular of Citizen’s vast portfolio of timepieces. The 44mm steel case features a 60-click rotating bezel made of aluminum (here in maritime blue) and a screw-down crown positioned at 4 o’clock. The blue dial sports wide hands and large applied hour markers, all generously lumed for underwater visibility, and a date window at 4 o’clock. The prominent minute hand with its orange detailing adds another layer of contrast, and hence legibility, to the dial. The Eco-Drive movement offers six months of power on a full charge and boasts an accuracy of ...
Time+Tide
The new Norqain Wild One has Jean-Claude Biver’s fingerprints all over it
When it was first announced that Jean-Claude Biver was joining Norqain as an advisor to the board, many wondered whether the position was merely ceremonial or if he’d make a genuine impact. During my conversation with Norqain CEO Ben Küffer on the matter back in June, he insisted that JCB was not simply lending his … ContinuedThe post The new Norqain Wild One has Jean-Claude Biver’s fingerprints all over it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Norqain Introduces Lightweight Carbon Sports Watch
Just three months after it announced Jean-Claude Biver joining its board, Norqain has unveiled its first product conceived in conjunction with the industry veteran best known for having created Hublot as we know it today, the Wild One. The Wild One is a lightweight sports watch with a case of a carbon composite known as Norteq and a laser-cut, patterned dial. It’s the culmination of a two-year project involving Norqain, synthetic rubber specialist Biwi, and more recently Mr Biver, who “[challenged] the team to innovate; to create a lightweight and shock-resistant timepiece that reflects the brand’s active DNA”. Initial thoughts Often found in expensive and exotic sports watches – although not an expensive material in itself – carbon composite cases are uncommon at the US$5,000 price point, thought they are becoming more common. Alongside models from Oris and Bell & Ross, this is amongst the few offerings in this price segment. And the Wild One has all the features of a bona fide sports watch, including water resistance of 200 m and of course a robust Kenissi movement. That said, the Wild One will also have the downside that is intrinsic to carbon composite – it is essentially a type of plastic and looks the part, resulting in a look that you either like or not. Notably, the liberal use of modern synthetic materials like carbon composite and rubber certainly evokes other products Mr Biver had a hand in creating. And so do the aesthetics; the patterned di...
Hodinkee
Photo Report: A Final Summer Hurrah At The Hamptons' Most Relaxed Collectible Car Show
Grail cars, record-breaking Richard Mille watches, and lobster rolls were the smash hits of The Bridge.
Deployant
New: Rado DiaStar Original 60 Year Anniversary Edition
Rado celebrates the 60th Anniversary of their iconic Rado DiaStar with four new watches in the DiaStar Original Collection.
SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue
As one of the world’s biggest watch retailers, Bucherer has long enjoyed unique relationships with leading watchmakers. Starting in 2016, Bucherer commissioned a series of special editions from a diversity of brands, including the well-known Tudor Black Bay Bronze Blue. Girard-Perregaux (GP) is the latest marque to create a special run for the Swiss retailer with the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue. This variant of GP’s trademark complication once again is inspired by the retailer’s corporate colour: instead of a flat black in the standard version of the watch, the titanium bridges of the movement are highlighted in dark blue. Initial thoughts As with most of the Bucherer’s other editions, the new Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges is a change in livery, but one that transforms the feel of the watch. Going from a muted black to a vibrant blue is a simple tweak, but one that adds to the visual appeal by making the architecture of the movement more apparent. The blue treatment makes the bridges stand out and emphasise their graceful, arched form, a quality that is less obvious in the standard version because of its near-monochromatic finish. The standard version with its black bridges All that makes for a contemporary look that’s more striking, a perfect fit for a calibre that’s essentially an ultra-modern take on a concept dating to 1860. At the same time, the modern yet restrained aesthetic is appropriate given Bucherer’s status as ...
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1978 Rolex Daytona 'Big Red' Ref. 6263, A 1991 Rolex GMT-Master, And A 1991 Rolex Submariner
Hey, the logo is a crown for a reason! Check out all of our Vintage Watches offerings now, Rolex and non-Rolex.
SJX Watches
Habring2 Introduces the Chrono Felix Perpetual
Continuing with the vintage-inspired aesthetic that has informed many of its recent models, Habring² is elaborating upon its single-button chronograph. Now the brand’s flagship model, the Chrono Felix Perpetual is self-explanatory – a hand-wind Felix chronograph with a perpetual calendar module. As is typical for Habring², the Chrono Felix Perpetual (CFP) approaches the double complication in a practical and affordable manner. It’s powered by the brand’s own A11 base movement, while the calendar is the familiar and reliable Dubois-Depraz module. The CFP is making its debut in two variants: a “salmon” dial with Breguet numerals as well as a striking black-and-silver version for Massena Lab. The “salmon” dial model available from Habring² Initial thoughts Although Habring² introduced a split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar three years ago, the CFP feels like an all-new product. And it is, in fact, new in most tangible respects. The case is smaller while the movement has been dressed up and even incorporates an in-house escapement and balance assembly. The CFP is a handsome watch with surprisingly compact proportions. In fact, the CFP will feel like the standard Habring² Felix chronograph, since they share the same case middle with the CFP having a thicker bezel. The Massena Lab edition While both versions of the CFP have the same dimensions, they are aesthetics opposites despite both being vintage inspired. Habring²’s edition is a warm,...
Deployant
New: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronographs in bright racing colours
TAG Heuer strengthens its entry level position with the release of three new Formula 1 Chronographs in bright racing colours powered by quartz movements.
Time+Tide
Why would anyone put a dive watch on a leather/synthetic hybrid strap?
The debate has raged on for years over putting dive watches on leather straps. It’s a fairly straight-forward argument for and against, with compelling reasonings on both sides. It’s true that having a leather strap goes against the subaquatic purposes that a dive watch is built for, but it’s also true that people rarely even … ContinuedThe post Why would anyone put a dive watch on a leather/synthetic hybrid strap? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces the Luminor Moon Phase for Ladies
A compact take on the signature Panerai watch that made its debut in 2016, the Luminor Due is essentially a scaled-down version of the military-inspired original, which allows it to wear easily on smaller wrists. To date, the Luminor Due has remained minimalist, making do without complications save for a date display. But now Panerai gone for something slightly more elaborate with the Luminor Due Luna that has a small seconds and moon phase display featuring a solid-gold moon disc. Initial thoughts I like the compact size of the Due, as well as its more formal styling that allows it to double as a dress watch. Although the original, full-size Luminor is a clean, almost elegant design, its massive size and stark aesthetics means it can only be a military-style watch. The Due, on the other hand, manages to preserve the outline of the original Luminor while being modestly elegant. For that reason, the new Luna is an appealing watch. At just 38 mm wide, it is clearly more wearable, while the engraved, solid-gold moon gives it a bit of sparkle. And the all-gold model comes along with a mother of pearl dial, making it even more luxe. Interestingly, the Luminor Due is largely targeted at female clientele, but models have a masculine aesthetic. That continues with the Luna, which is available in steel with a metallic blue dial, a combination leaves it looking very much like a conventional men’s watch. The dial design is largely classical Panerai, although the proportions seem a...
SJX Watches
Book Review: MB&F; - The First Fifteen Years
MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years. By Suzanne Wong and William Massena. La Martinière/Abrams; CHF198 for M.A.D. Gallery edition; US$170 for standard edition. To celebrate its 15 years – from 2005 to 2020 – of making extraordinary watches, MB&F; commissioned a 312-page book, MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years. In its short foreword, MB&F; founder Maximilian Büsser states he did not want a biography since they are “only written at the end of a journey”. Instead, he puts forward the rhetorical question: developing 18 calibres for over 160 products over the period “deserves to be documented, right?” He adds “hundreds of artisans, engineers and watchmakers” came along for the ride and “this is the story I love to tell”. He describes the tome as a catalogue raisonné, adding that it is something “never been done for a watch brand; a world first in the watchmaking industry!” Defined by the New York Public Library, a catalogue raisonné in the visual arts serves as an important tool not just to establish an artist’s oeuvre, and thus record history, but also to aid in authentication by cataloguing all the known works of an artist. The New York Public Library also adds “Essay(s) on the artist” and “Critical assessments and remarks” as desirable content in such a publication. All the watches and all the friends The main part of the book is such a catalogue of 254 pages, divided into three sections: “Horological Machines”, “Legacy Machines”, ...
Deployant
New Release: Orient Star’s New Diver 1964 2nd Edition
Details on the new Orient Star Diver 1964 Second Edition. Available in black or green dial with live photographs of the latter and details.
Hodinkee
Weekend Edition: Dismiss Them If You Must, But Smartwatches Are Here To Stay
Connected watches have evolved from something out of a sci-fi movie into a must-have accessory for modern life.
SJX Watches
Andersen Genève Introduces the Heures du Monde “Asprey”
Once a London institution that’s been in business for over two centuries, Asprey was a storied retailer of all manner of luxury goods in its heyday. Now owned by an American private outfit, Asprey has lost its lustre, but on vintage watches the name still carries magic – a 1950s Patek Philippe ref. 2499 bearing the Asprey logo on the dial sold for a record sum in 2018. Now Andersen Genève is trying to recapture some of that magic with a double-crown world time wristwatch made made specifically for the London retailer: the Heures du Monde “Asprey” with a blue-gold guilloche dial bearing the Asprey signature at six. The engine-turned pattern on the dial is inspired by the bottles of perfume once sold by Asprey Initial thoughts The Asprey world time has a look of Andersen, an old-school, classical style that brings to mind the 1980s and 1990s. For anyone who likes that retro style, it’s a good thing since there are not many modern-day watches with such aesthetics. Still, being a special edition, the Asprey world time has to set itself apart. It does so only modestly, first with the flared lugs that were previously only used for other Andersen models, and second with the hand-made guilloche dial with a unique lozenge pattern in Andersen’s signature “blue gold”. But arguably the most important element is the signature at six o’clock, one that echoes vintage, retailer-signed world time watches from the likes of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. With ...
Hodinkee
Watching Movies: Jon Hamm Hams It Up Wearing A Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680 In The New Comedy 'Confess, Fletch'
In our watch-related movie of the week, we go behind the scenes on how this Sub ended up on his arm in the first place.
Teddy Baldassarre
Longines HydroConquest Buyer's Guide
The Longines HydroConquest features a boldly contemporary design and a sturdy, water-resistant construction that have made it one of the most popular dive watches in its sport-luxury price segment. Since its debut in 2007, the Longines HydroConquest has expanded into a versatile collection with an array of sizes, colorways, and materials to appeal to a wide audience of dive watch enthusiasts. Here are seven things to know if you're looking at adding a Longines HydroConquest watch to your collection. The Longines HydroConquest has its roots in Longines’ very first named collection from 1954. Longines, which derives its name from “les longines,” aka “the long meadows” that surround the Swiss village of Saint-Imier where it was founded, has been making timepieces since 1832. It wasn’t until 1954, however, that Longines began engaging in the modern marketing practice of introducing product families with distinctive names. “Conquest” was the first such name to be registered, on April 3, 1954, with the Swiss Register of Intellectual Property. The original Longines Conquest (reproduced above) was designed as one of the first generation of “modern” wristwatches, i.e., equipped with a highly accurate automatic movement and a water-resistant case that also protected the movement from magnetism and shocks. Despite its utilitarian elements, the original Conquest was undeniably a dress watch, with a very modest 35mm case; a clean, minimalist dial; applied diamond...
Time+Tide
The Rolex Day-Date you never knew existed
Rolex is known for being fairly conservative and calculated these days. Sure, there are a few exceptions like the recent falcon’s eye dial for the Yachtmaster, say, or their colourful expressions with their gem-set watches like the leopard and rainbow Daytona watches. But, more often than not, their novelties involve incremental updates – slight refinements … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Day-Date you never knew existed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The Vulcain Cricket is Back!
Wei and Jeremiah take a closer look at Vulcain and the revival of the classic Cricket, the famous alarm wristwatch most associated with the brand. The new collection consists of faithful re-editions from the 1950s and are likely to become instant hits! We have entrepreneur and passionate enthusiast Guillaume Laidet to thank for bringing back […]
Deployant
New: Jaquet Droz Dragon Automaton Numerus Clausus
Jaquet Droz releases a unique collaboration with John Howe, designer for the "Lord of the Rings", to bring a custom made watch with a dragon automaton.
Quill & Pad
Montblanc Writers Edition Homage To Brothers Grimm: Fairy Tale-Like Artistry
Nancy Olson always look forward to the introduction of Montblanc’s annual Writers Edition pen collection, which has honored writers from William Shakespeare to Ernest Hemingway since 1992. In 2022 Montblanc pays homage to the Brothers Grimm.
Deployant
Industry news: Grand Seiko creates a new company for the Asia Pacific market
Grand Seiko stretches its wings into the Asia Pacific market with the creation of the new company - Grand Seiko Asia Pacific.
Deployant
New: Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary with prices
Longines celebrates its long, continuous and rich 190 year history with a series of three new watches in the Longines Master Collection.
SJX Watches
Business News: Grand Seiko Inaugurates Asia-Pacific Arm
Having enjoyed several years of double-digit growth in its biggest markets outside of Japan, Grand Seiko is continuing to hone a marketing and distribution strategy inspired by its Swiss peers. One of the key planks of its brand development has been to vertically integrate its sales channels, with Asia being the latest to join the mothership. Headquartered in Singapore, Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific is a newly established entity that will take charge of sales and marketing of the brand in the region. Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific becomes the company’s third regional subsidiary, after those covering Americas and Europe, both amongst the brand’s most important markets outside of Japan. The Grand Seiko boutique in Place Vendome, Paris The Asia-Pacific division of Grand Seiko no doubt develop the brand along similar lines as its counterparts in Europe and the United States. The senior managers in both the Americas and Europe are Omega alumni, with the head of the American operations also being the brand’s Global Strategy Officer. Unsurprisingly, Grand Seiko has embarked on a game plan centred on brand boutiques in upscale locations as well as limited edition models, mirroring the familiar approach utilised by many of its Swiss rivals. The newly-established Asia-Pacific operation is a joint venture between Seiko Watch Corporation and Thong Sia, the Hong Kong-based company that was the longtime Asian distributor for Grand Seiko (as well as other Seiko brands). It is chaired by Ak...
Hodinkee
Happenings: The NAWCC 2022 Symposium - Horology's Great Collectors
In association with the Horological Society of New York, October 21-22.
SJX Watches
Insight: The Last Pilot’s Watch - Tutima’s Military Chronograph
Pilot’s watches, and specifically military-inspired pilot’s watches, are a pillar of the modern, luxury watch industry. Dozens of brands, notably IWC, Breitling, Bell & Ross, Bremont, and Yema, have made military aviation a core theme of their image. So it’s somewhat ironic that today’s elite military pilots don’t wear mechanical watches in the cockpit. A recent survey of pilots at MCAS Miramar, the airbase once home to the prestigious “Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor” programme – better known as TOPGUN – revealed that not a single pilot was wearing a mechanical watch. Instead, military pilots increasingly wear smartwatches designed specifically for aviators like the Garmin D2 that can monitor oxygen levels and act as a backup navigation system. Modern pilot’s watches made by luxury brands are more like “fan fiction”; a designer’s dream of what might have been. But this wasn’t always the case. Mechanical watches were once state-of-the-art technology and vital instruments for navigators and pilots before being rendered obsolete by quartz technology. This is the story of how the urgency of the Cold War gave the humble balance wheel one last chance to patrol the skies. The jet-shaped counterweight on the IWC Top Gun SFTI calls to mind the airplane-tipped chronograph minutes hand of Cold War-era pilot’s watches like the Tutima 798 A brief history of the pilot’s watch Pilot’s watches have been around for almost as long as there have been p...
Time+Tide
Jajanken CLOCK! The best watch sightings in anime
Believe it or not, watches in anime is a thing.The post Jajanken CLOCK! The best watch sightings in anime appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is clean, serene and wears like a dream
A luxury, integrated-bracelet sports watch is nothing new. The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor – a luxury, integrated-bracelet sports watch that’s executed oh-so well, however, is damn near unique. Zach already waxed lyrical about the charms of the Parmigiani in his tour of NYC while sporting the rose-gold variant, but we couldn’t quite get enough. … ContinuedThe post The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is clean, serene and wears like a dream appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Vacheron & Constantin Reference 4560 Triple Calendar - Reprise
Oh, those Geneva auctions! While GaryG's intention is usually to browse the rare pieces on offer, gain an education from his auction-house friends and escape unscathed, it seems that more often than not there is a piece that puts him into bidding mode. And sometimes that piece is entirely unanticipated as was the case of the Vacheron & Constantin Reference 4560 triple calendar that he stumbled across at a Sotheby’s preview. Here is why he bought it.