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My Favorite Rolex Datejust Doesn’t Exist Yet - But These References Come Quite Close Fratello
Rolex Datejust Doesn’t Exist Yet Aug 5, 2025

My Favorite Rolex Datejust Doesn’t Exist Yet - But These References Come Quite Close

The mighty Rolex Datejust turns 80 this year. That makes it one of the longest continually produced watches out there, which is no small feat. At Fratello, we intend to celebrate with a series of articles on the model, and today it’s my turn to choose my all-time favorite. That’s not an easy task, though. […] Visit My Favorite Rolex Datejust Doesn’t Exist Yet - But These References Come Quite Close to read the full article.

Anoma Introduces the A1 Optical, Inspired by the Optical Art Movement Worn & Wound
Anoma Introduces Aug 4, 2025

Anoma Introduces the A1 Optical, Inspired by the Optical Art Movement

Anoma has quickly emerged as one of our favorite small independents making truly interesting, design forward watches. Few watches point more toward the enormous pendulum swing away from straightforward vintage inspired sports watches than the brand’s A1, introduced in the summer of last year. It’s more than just a watch with a uniquely shaped case – it’s a deliberate design exercise by brand founder Matteo Violet Vianello, and illustrates that rather than taking design inspiration from other watches, you can find shapes and textures to emulate in furniture, art, and the natural world. It’s also just an extremely well made object at a price point that feels fair for the originality of the design, and watch enthusiasts seem to agree. Vinaello says his waitlist is currently ten times longer than the number of watches available.  Anoma’s latest is the A1 Optical, which takes the same, vaguely triangular case shape and adds an engraved dial inspired Optical Art. Also known as Op Art, this was an art movement that has its origins in the 1960s and can be characterized by the use of abstract geometric patterns formed to create optical illusions. Optical Art will often play with the viewer’s perception of depth and movement to create the kinds of objects and imagery that have us questioning our senses.  The engraved dial on the new A1 is created with a sharp and very fine tool that is used to carve into the dial’s metal base. A total of fifty slightly offset trian...

Does Storytelling Still Sell Watches In 2025? Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Aug 4, 2025

Does Storytelling Still Sell Watches In 2025?

The greatest watch story ever told is the story of the Omega Speedmaster, the first watch worn on the Moon. That’s a fact. Another fact is that luxury in general is not about selling products. Rather, it is about emotion. That certainly is the case with post-Quartz Crisis luxury watches. The key to successfully selling […] Visit Does Storytelling Still Sell Watches In 2025? to read the full article.

I Want To Go Back To The ’90s - Who’s Coming With Me To Find Great Watches? Fratello
Ming Aug 3, 2025

I Want To Go Back To The ’90s - Who’s Coming With Me To Find Great Watches?

Melancholy can be described as a gentle sadness that feels good due to its connection to nostalgia, self-reflection, and the appreciation of beauty - in art and music, for instance, as well as in watches. The feeling of melancholy typically emerges in adolescence or early adulthood, which spans from the late teens to the mid-30s. […] Visit I Want To Go Back To The ’90s - Who’s Coming With Me To Find Great Watches? to read the full article.

Seiko Samurai Review: Smaller And Better Than Ever Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Samurai Review Smaller Aug 1, 2025

Seiko Samurai Review: Smaller And Better Than Ever

Last year, we saw a trio of new Seiko Samurai watches that aimed to broaden the collection’s appeal within the Prospex family. It’s fairly well understood that the Samurai has been seen as the odd man out among the “Seiko with a nickname” family, but why exactly is that? Well, it doesn’t have that vintage heritage, having only debuted in 2004. Also, the second generation has been around since 2017, and since then, tastes have certainly changed. The 44mm-wide case is a little too big for today’s tastes, where conventional wisdom puts anything above 42mm safely in the “huge” category (the case has been pretty thick, as well) . And while models like the Turtle, SKX007, or Willard (or even Tuna and Arnie) have rounded cases, the Samurai’s case has a very sharp and almost aggressively angular design that, again, is not for everyone. Wisely, Seiko’s third-generation Samurai addresses that persistent case-size issue while giving the dial a refresh too. Fortunately, the angular case is a bit more refined, yet no less geometrical. Sorry, that’s just part of the Samurai’s identity. Seiko Samurai Case and Bracelet First off, yes - the new Seiko Samurai has taken design cues from the Shogun. If that makes it not a “true Samurai,” then so be it, but the end result is one good-looking watch. The case improves over that of the second generation in just about every meaningful way (the older case is still available alongside this new iteration). First off, it ...

Rolex Land-Dweller Review Teddy Baldassarre
Omega some twenty-five ago Jul 31, 2025

Rolex Land-Dweller Review

It's no understatement to say that the Rolex Land-Dweller was the talk of Watches & Wonders 2025, which took place in Geneva a few months ago. A new Rolex collection with an integrated bracelet and a brand new movement? Well, we would expect no less. There is something fundamentally earth-shaking about massive shifts in the Rolex atmosphere. Mixed metaphors aside, just because we have seen Rolex develop and launch an entirely new collection quite recently (with the 1908, released just two years ago, in 2023), it doesn’t make it normal. Before that it was the Sky-Dweller, and years before that, there were variations on the Yacht-Master. The launch of the Land-Dweller proved to be one of those milestone moments.  The Land-Dweller is the product of 18 new patents specific to this watch, as Rolex has developed an entirely new watch both inside and out. No, this is not a new complication, but it is a brand-new approach to timekeeping. It marks the first development of a new escapement system at this scale since the arrival of the Co-Axial escapement from Omega some twenty-five ago. In short this is big news. As you likely have seen by now, Teddy and I had the chance to see this watch up close and personal ahead of this year's Watches & Wonders a few months ago (you can find our full video hands-on review on YouTube now) and were also lucky enough to do it prior to a lot of the pre-release noise really reaching peak volume. That is to say, we were able to learn about the mech...

First Look - The Retro-Cool Datsun-Themed Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Limited Edition Collection Monochrome
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Limited Edition Jul 31, 2025

First Look - The Retro-Cool Datsun-Themed Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Limited Edition Collection

What defines something as an icon is generally down to the public’s perspective of its significance. It can be anything, really, as long as it stands for something extraordinary. In watchmaking, we have a fair few of them that we regularly celebrate. Think of watches like the Seiko Speedtimer 6139, which was among the very […]

Up Close: Vanguart Orb Tourbillon SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi APRP Jul 30, 2025

Up Close: Vanguart Orb Tourbillon

Vanguart is surprisingly under the radar, despite having been eight years old. The brand was founded in 2017 by a quartet that includes alumni of Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi (APRP), and last year introduced its most notable product yet, the Orb. The watch arguably goes against the grain of independent watchmaking today. Instead of being traditional, simple, and brightly finished, it is appears intricately mechanical and distinctly modern in style. A flying tourbillon wristwatch with an inventive, thoughtful technical approach, the Orb is powered by a layered, skeleton movement with a novel winding-function selector that allows for switching between manual and automatic winding. And it’s been trending recently after having been spotted on the wrist of singer Ed Sheeran during a concert in Germany. Initial thoughts I first encountered Vanguart when it launched the Black Hole Tourbillon in 2021. The brand caught my interest because it was set up by an all-star team that included two technical experts from APRP. Though the Black Hole was technically impressive, the oversized, space-ship shape felt overdone and way too much on the wrist (and also twice as expensive). The Orb, on the other hand, is (almost) just right. When I first saw the Orb, I thought it might be yet another basic tourbillon movement in fancy dress but priced exorbitantly. I was wrong. The movement is impressive in many respects. The Black Hole Tourbillon. Image – Vanguart The Orb is both minimalist and...

An Interview With Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Jérôme Lambert Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Jérôme Lambert Jul 29, 2025

An Interview With Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Jérôme Lambert

The Reverso took a prominent spot during Watches and Wonders 2025. Not only were the new Reverso watches the highlight of the Jaeger-LeCoultre booth, but they were also the talk of the town. Earlier this year, before Watches and Wonders, I traveled to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s headquarters in Le Sentier to see the new Reverso collection in […] Visit An Interview With Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Jérôme Lambert to read the full article.

Introducing: The ArtyA Purity Curvy HMS Mirror Titanium Fratello
Jul 29, 2025

Introducing: The ArtyA Purity Curvy HMS Mirror Titanium

I always enjoy seeing ArtyA’s latest releases. The brand often blends fun themes that appeal to rock stars and artists. Over the last several years, though, the Purity collection has ushered in a new design language. The watches are still quite modern, but the case shapes are more organic. Importantly, the case sizes work better […] Visit Introducing: The ArtyA Purity Curvy HMS Mirror Titanium to read the full article.

Hands On: Hublot Big Bang Unico in Mint Green Ceramic SJX Watches
Hublot Big Bang Unico Jul 28, 2025

Hands On: Hublot Big Bang Unico in Mint Green Ceramic

One of the year’s best summer watches, the Hublot Big Bang Unico Mint Green Ceramic is a fresh interpretation of the brand’s signature collection. Housed in a 42 mm case clad in candy-like, mint green ceramic, the Big Bang Unico features Hublot’s top-of-the-line HUB1280 flyback chronograph movement with an unusual, dial-side integrated construction. While technically identical to other ceramic Big Bang watches, the new mint green colour is unusually fun and approachable. This new edition of the Big Bang joins the permanent collection, and extends the brand’s industry-leading range of coloured ceramic watches. Initial thoughts Hublot is a brand that tends to elicit visceral polarisation among collectors, and it’s easy to see why. The bold designs are seen as outrageous by some, and the pricing puts them out of reach for those focused on maximising their horological dollar. But Hublot has outgrown its early reputation as a Royal Oak imitator and found its own identity, in part through its leadership in ceramics and willingness to experiment with design and colour. In this case, the mint green colour looks great, and considering the glossy finish, it looks almost like candy. This gives the watch a friendly countenance that results in an amusing tension with the overtly masculine, technical structure of the case and design of the dial, with its stencil-like hour markers. The Big Bang collection is all about its signature architectural case, and the mint green editio...

Rolex Submariner Review Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Submariner Review Jul 26, 2025

Rolex Submariner Review

The Rolex Submariner enjoys a nearly impeccable resume these days, and is largely seen as the modern dive watch archetype, having first set the template in 1954. The Submariner has seen a steady evolution during its production span, and remains essentially the same today as it was in the ‘50s and ‘60s. It’s a simple watch to understand and enjoy, and while modern Rolex aren’t quite the same function-forward tools they once were, the Submariner remains a symbol of that connection. It’s also just as capable as ever. There have been many transitional references throughout the Submariner’s life, but there is one reference in particular that has drawn the ire of the enthusiast community, and that is the reference 114060 produced between 2012 and 2020. Today, I’ll be taking a look at why that is, and offering a few words in defense of this outlier.  Rolex Submariner 114060 Case and Wearability The Submariner has been a ~40mm watch since the late ‘50s, and while the reference 124060 officially changed that, moving to a 41mm diameter, it was the 114060 before it that was the first to really push the envelope of that label. While the shiny new ceramic bezel got most of the attention when this generation of the Submariner was introduced, it was the new so-called "muscle case" that would raise eyebrows. Rolex doesn’t generally succumb to trends, but it’s worth noting that this period was marked by increasing case sizes, and as a result, the 114060 (and its more c...

Hot Take: Adding Some Weight To The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Fratello
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Omega Jul 26, 2025

Hot Take: Adding Some Weight To The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M

Omega didn’t make a fuss about these two new gold Seamaster Diver 300M references and just sneakily added them to the catalog. And I wonder why there was no press release on them, like there was on the new steel Seamaster Diver 300M with orange accents the other week. Anyway, that decision was made, but […] Visit Hot Take: Adding Some Weight To The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M to read the full article.

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date in Pink Gold SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 25, 2025

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date in Pink Gold

A. Lange & Söhne refreshes its arguably most avant-garde collection with the Zeitwerk Date in pink gold matched with a dark grey dial. The new Zeitwerk Date joins the existing model in white gold as a regular production model, and retains the L043.8 movement featuring the signature digital time display driven by a constant force mechanism. The Zeitwerk Date is one of Lange’s simplest watches in terms of information displayed – just the time and date – but stands out as one of the brand’s most technically complex creations. Despite the low volume of production and esoteric mechanics, the Zeitwerk is also one of Lange’s most iconic models, alongside the Lange 1 and Datograph, thanks to its striking design that departs from the usual aesthetics of the normally staid brand. Initial Thoughts While the original Zeitwerk Date in white gold was the first of the second-generation Zeitwerk, bringing with it sweeping changes to the Zeitwerk movement, the new model is stylistic variation that serves to fill a gap in the collection. It offers more choice (actually just a binary choice) for someone looking for a Zeitwerk that is more complex than the base model, but not ready to go all the way to the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater that costs five times as much. The original Zeitwerk Date was a good, perhaps even great, watch inside and out, and this is too – though it could probably could have come a little sooner. It’s still a large watch, but the bulk is easy to justify consi...

Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date In Pink Gold With A Gray Dial Fratello
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 25, 2025

Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date In Pink Gold With A Gray Dial

In 2009, the German brand A. Lange & Söhne surprised the world with a mechanical digital watch based on a clock in an opera house in Dresden. A decade later, the watchmakers from Glashütte in Saxonia presented an even more digital version of that watch, the white gold Zeitwerk Date. Why was it more digital? […] Visit Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date In Pink Gold With A Gray Dial to read the full article.

Introducing - The Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon Limited Edition GBCF999 Captures The Mesmerising Dance Of A Flock Of Birds Monochrome
Seiko corporation Credor represents Jul 24, 2025

Introducing - The Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon Limited Edition GBCF999 Captures The Mesmerising Dance Of A Flock Of Birds

Credor is often regarded as being a connaisseur’s brand, one of those beguiling watchmakers known and appreciated by a small group of deeply devoted watch collectors and enthusiasts. Part of the Seiko corporation, Credor represents the high-end side of the company, combining the most special traditional craftsmanship techniques with Japanese watchmaking artistry. Although it has […]

First Look - The Two-Tone Luminescence of the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Diver Aquamar Monochrome
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Diver Aquamar Since Jul 23, 2025

First Look - The Two-Tone Luminescence of the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Diver Aquamar

Since its revival in 2020, Nivada Grenchen has been something of a secret among collectors of vintage dive watches, with reeditions of some of its cult tool watches produced between 1950 and 1970 at accessible prices. Founded in 1926, Nivada Grenchen produced its first automatic and waterproof watch, the Antarctic, in 1950. Put to the […]

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Reviewed by Tim Mosso: A Machine with Heart and Soul Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 23, 2025

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Reviewed by Tim Mosso: A Machine with Heart and Soul

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon lives up to its name. It has a date, a chronograph, a perpetual calendar, and a tourbillon. But it has more: this watch has character. Assigning human traits to a cold machine is a – romantic – fool’s errand, but it’s also irresistible in the presence of a masterpiece. A. Lange & Söhne’s warmest watch is more than a machine with a heartbeat. It has soul.

Bulgari “Beyond Time” Exhibition and a Singapore-Exclusive Octo Worldtimer SJX Watches
Bulgari Beyond Time” Exhibition Jul 23, 2025

Bulgari “Beyond Time” Exhibition and a Singapore-Exclusive Octo Worldtimer

Bulgari has just opened Beyond Time in Singapore, which takes place in Paragon Mall from July 18 to August 10, 2025 and is open to the public daily. An exhibition dedicated to the brand’s watches and jewelled timepieces, Beyond Time also marks the launch of the Octo Roma Worldtimer SG60, a limited edition only for Singapore. The exhibition includes the record setting Octo Finissimo complications – some of the thinnest wristwatches ever made – as well as a watchmaking “masterclass” led by a watchmaker from Bulgari’s Neuchâtel manufacture. Singapore National Day The event coincides with Singapore’s 60th year of independence on August 9. For the occasion, Bulgari has created the Octo Roma Worldtimer SG60, a limited edition accented in white and red, the national colours of Singapore, with a case in black DLC-coated steel. Other goodies specific to Singapore’s National Day weekend include postcards by Singaporean artists, and personalised poetry verses. The Octo Roma Worldtimer SG60 is delivered on a pair of straps in red and black Located on the ground floor of the mall, the B-shaped exhibition space is inspired by the work of German architect Mies van der Rohe and his close collaborator, designer Lilly Reich. The exhibits are organised thematically, with the Serpenti and Octo collections each having a space of their own, but the complicated watches are the centrepiece. The complicated watch display showcases the brand’s accomplishments in pushing the bound...

SJX Podcast: Are Watches Too Expensive? And Discussing Bundling. SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Tribute Jul 21, 2025

SJX Podcast: Are Watches Too Expensive? And Discussing Bundling.

This week’s podcast starts with two hot topics – retail prices of watches and “bundling”, or having to buy one watch (or several) in order to get something desirable. The episode also includes several watches we covered recently, including the Vacheron Constantin “Tribute to the Celestial” and the Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Pelagos Ultra Vs. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M “Orange” Fratello
Tudor Pelagos Ultra Vs Omega Jul 20, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Pelagos Ultra Vs. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M “Orange”

Another week, another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we pit two mid-segment dive watches against each other. Although…”mid-segment”? Both brands have crept up in price, putting us in the €6,000–7,500 bracket today. Is that still mid-segment? Whatever you wish to call it, these are two very different watches doing very similar things at a similar […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Pelagos Ultra Vs. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M “Orange” to read the full article.

Hands On: Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Jul 18, 2025

Hands On: Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009

Grand Seiko returns to its Sport Collection with an even bolder and edgier take on its flagship chronograph with the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009. Combining an oversized case Brilliant Hard Titanium and a high-spec, high-beat chronograph movement, the striking new is Tentagraph is surprisingly not an all-new design but an iterative evolution that builds on the existing Sport Collection case. Initial Thoughts While a strength of Seiko itself, chronometry-focused Grand Seiko has historically struggled with sports watches, though not for lack of trying. In 2019 Grand Seiko launched the angular and aggressive Sport case featuring a facetted, polygonal form with a sapphire-covered bezel to celebrate 20 years of Spring Drive. Grand Seiko intended the design to evoke the mane of the brand’s lion mascot. In 2023 came the regular production Tokyo Lion series, and the brand also extended the design language into its jewelled Masterpiece watches. The “lion’s mane” case design reminds me of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept, and with the addition of an octagonal bezel the resemblance has only grown, though I wouldn’t say it is derivative – if anything the Grand Seiko case is a more boisterous take on the 45GS design from the late 1960s. The earlier Spring Drive GMT Chronograph SBGC275 with a less stylised case design I quite liked the Sport case when it was launched in 2019, especially the rose gold SBGC230, but it felt unfinished with a round bezel and buttons. With...

Sinn 556 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Sinn 556 Review Founded Jul 17, 2025

Sinn 556 Review

Founded in 1961, Frankfurt, Germany-based Sinn is one of those watch brands that has a rich history to back it up, and continues to produce well-thought-out and reasonably priced watches, but has yet to be catapulted into the watch enthusiast spotlight that other brands have achieved. This, in my opinion, is something of a shame, but the hipster in me also likes to think that its lack of over-hype is also one of the brand’s strengths. While we over here at the Teddy team have given lots of (well-deserved) attention to the Sinn 104 ST, today, I’m going to give some more love to another equally deserving piece within the brand’s contemporary catalog: the Sinn 556 I.  One could argue that a no-nonsense black-dial watch is a dime a dozen. Pretty much every brand under the sun has one, if not several, to choose from. But unpacking and picking apart what immediately looks to be simple is a watch journalist's bread and butter after all, so it is quite literally my job to get down to the nitty gritty of the unique ways in which the Sinn 556 I is compelling, and, for those in the market, to break down the reasons why (or why not) it should be on your list of watches to consider. I will also argue that simplicity is often the easiest design element to mess up. How many times has one watch been thrown off by too much unnecessary text and branding, a date window that breaks up the dial’s overall harmony, or those little details that people free from watch obsession would easi...