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Time+Tide
We spoke with former Hodinkee Editor Tony Traina to dissect the Gallet acquisition news he broke.The post Is Gallet set to become Breitling’s Tudor? Discussing the rumoured acquisition with Tony Traina appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Picking Valentine's gifts for our colleagues... it's not all roses, hearts, and chocolate.
![[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Vertex M60 Aqualion ND](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2025/02/Vertex-Owners-Review-22.jpg)
Worn & Wound
“If you’ve heard the phrase ‘one-watch guy,’ you’re likely far beyond being one.” I’ve used that line a lot the last few years. In the last decade, the collective watch community has evangelized the ‘one-watch guy,’ transforming the concept from a simple idea into a lionized ideal rooted in the days when the Don Drapers of the world would get home from work, roll up their sleeves, and mow the lawn in cordovan loafers, Oxford cloth shirts, and a 4-digit Rolex. For better or for worse (honestly, mostly for better), we don’t live in that world anymore. Start looking around, and you’ll quickly realize that the modern one-watch guy is far more likely to own an Apple Watch or Garmin than a 1016. And yet, the theory of the ‘one-watch guy’ continues to permeate, no doubt helped along by people like me who keep writing story intros like this one. There’s a romantic simplicity to the idea; a sense that, if a collector can somehow encapsulate their taste into a single watch, they have achieved the ultimate in collecting prowess, or at least some advanced level of enthusiast zen. Generally, ‘zen’ is not a word I would use to describe myself, and I’m certainly not a one-watch guy, but I can understand why the concept holds appeal. In collecting, as in so many things, constraint can be a gift, forcing our own perspective into stark relief and keeping us accountable to our taste. From that perspective, a one-watch collection is the ultimate constraint, a...
Teddy Baldassarre
After a relatively short time in the international market — and an even shorter time as a truly independent brand rather than an elevated product family — Grand Seiko has indisputably come into its own as a top-tier luxury watchmaker. Despite the inescapable fact that it still shares ownership and an industrial base with the parent Seiko brand, Grand Seiko has successfully put distance between its high-end output and Seiko’s more accessible, mass-market offerings. In fact, one could argue that enthusiasts and collectors have largely pigeonholed Grand Seiko as the luxurious, elegant dress watch brand and “Regular” Seiko as the sports- and tool-watch brand. But this perception would not be entirely accurate. Grand Seiko makes its own fair share of sporty timepieces with robustly built cases, less-than-modest case dimensions, and practical functions and complications, despite packaging all of these attributes into timepieces that are distinctly more luxurious — and accordingly more pricey — than their Seiko counterparts. Most of these watches fall within the aptly named Sport collection, which made its official debut in 2017, the same year that Grand Seiko established itself as its own brand. The roots of the Sport family DNA reach back significantly further — starting in 1998, with the launch of the Caliber 9S5 inside the first automatic Grand Seiko in more than 20 years, and continuing through the introduction of the first Grand Seiko model with a GMT func...
Deployant
Prepare for Lift-Off! Introducing Bell & Ross' BR-03 Astro. The stunning aventurine dial and unique interpretation of the hands will leave you starstruck
Time+Tide
This modern take on a mystery watch captures a view of the Earth from space on its blue aventurine dial.The post The Bell & Ross BR 03 Astro captures the cosmos with another unconventional dial layout appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Rado taps Tej Chauhan for a new evolution of its 1970s-inspired ceramic wristwatch in the second collaboration between the watch brand and the British industrial designer. Featuring ceramic-metal composite bezel in a yellow gold PVD-coating, the DiaStar Original x Tej Chauhan Special Edition retains the signature helmet-shaped case, but sports a radial pattern also found on Mr Chauhan’s preceding Rado collaboration. And the day-date display utilises the designer’s own font in bold colours. Initial thoughts Rado is a pioneer in materials innovation for watch cases, having introduced the first “scratch-proof” watch in 1962 thanks to the use of a metal composite. The new edition continues that with the use of Ceramos, a tungsten carbide-ceramic composite, but adds flavour to the 1970s design with Tej Chauhan’s touch on the dial and hands. His additions to the design set it apart, but still remain coherently 1970s in style. The look is not for every, but it does well in being a 1970s-style design with a twist. As is typical for Rado, the new DiaStar is priced reasonably. It costs US$2,250, which is value considering the materials. Most of the competition’s watches with such features cost more. Arguably the only shortcoming is the Powermatic 80 movement. Though reliable and offering an 80-hour power reserve, it is also widely used in less expensive watches from Rado’s sister companies like Tissot. Helmet-shaped case Water-resistant to 100 m, the new DiaStar retain...
WatchAdvice
This is a Hands-On Review with a difference. Why? Because this time, we are giving this very watch away with our friends at Fuel Asset Finance and Wallace Bishop Jewellers! What We Love A great tribute piece for F1 enthusiasts Wears well and smaller than the specs suggest The 1/100th second-hand is a bit of fun and something not all that common on chronographs What We Don’t Probably won’t suit everyone as an everyday piece The dial is a little busy, but still legible The quartz movement may not be for you if you love mechanical watches Overall Score: 8.1 / 10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Formula One over the past few years has seen a massive resurgence in popularity mostly thanks to the Netflix show Drive to Survive. And with the 2025 F1 season fast approaching next month, it will probably be another massive year with a long, jampacked calendar. And, as we have reported on previously TAG Heuer is now the new official timing partner for the next 10 years, so this review seems timely! We recently saw TAG Heuer release their new range of Formula 1 chronographs at LVMH watch week in January, but today we are looking at the limited edition TAG Heuer Formula 1 x Oracle Red Bull Racing limited edition chronograph that was released last year and the very watch that we are giving away in conjunction with Fuel Asset Finance and Wallace Bishop. So not only is this a review of this piece, but it’s a piece that you can go into...
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko announced in September last year a vintage remake inspired by the 45GS of 1968, the Heritage Collection 45GS Re-creation, which was launched as the SLGW005 in steel and the SLGW004 in yellow gold. In contrast to the many recent Grand Seiko releases with modern styling, the 45SG Re-creation is refreshing in being a revival of an iconic design, right down to the double-signed dial. Yet, the model also sports the brand’s latest generation manual-wind movement, the 9SA4. As the more accessible model of the two – retail is a little under US$10,000 – the steel SLGW005 deserves a closer look to understand how it smartly melds old and new. Initial thoughts Aesthetically, the SLGW005 stands out as a distinctively vintage design, from the case and dial to the buckle. This is all the more so since it is the first release since Grand Seiko’s rebranding in 2017, when all models eliminated “Seiko” in favour of only “Grand Seiko”, to feature the brand’s historical double-signed “Seiko” and “GS” dial. I am personally fond of this detail, as the double logo balances the dial aesthetically. But preferences aside, the external components are indeed excellent, from the dial work down to the faceted case. Despite the traditional exterior, the internals are modern – almost paradoxically so. Sporting the brand’s proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement, the 9SA4 inside is entirely different than the 1960s cal. 4520 found in the 45GS. On paper, it is a high-s...
Monochrome
First introduced in 2012, the Frederique Constant Classics Worldtimer Manufacture quickly became one of the brand’s best-selling models for being an accessible take on the complication. Over the years, it has been released in various materials and colours, often as limited editions that are no longer available. While undeniably a handsome timepiece with strong credentials, […]
Worn & Wound
There’s no sports watch that I have a stronger connection to than the Zenith Defy. I’ve long told anyone who would listen that the Defy is, bar none, my favorite sports watch collection. From its inception, the Defy has been a watch associated with pushing both design and watchmaking boundaries, through the use of uncommon materials, avant-garde designs, and over-the-top specs. For whatever sports watch from a major Swiss brand you can name, I could probably think of a Defy that matches it in terms of what it can do, and eclipses it in terms of the always hard to quantify cool factor. Yes, of course this is subjective. But, I mean, is it really? Now that we’ve established that I love the Defy potentially all out of proportion, we can consider the latest entry in the growing collection, the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton. This is a combination of words that were always meant to meet in the form of a Defy – the writing has been on the wall since the intro of the first Defy Skyline, or least since the introduction of the Skyline Chronograph. One of the nice things about the Defy, as a collection, is that it truly offers a different flavor of the core watch for every taste, with dials that are skeletonized, or not, cases that are made from steel, or ceramic, and now chronographs offering some of those same decision points. My feelings on the Defy Skyline collection oscillate quite a bit. Whenever I put one on, I can’t help but compare it in my mind to the Defy...
Time+Tide
If Henry Cavill is now a Longines brand ambassador, does that but the nail in the 007 discussion coffin?The post Super-friend: Longines reveals Henry Cavill as new Ambassador of Elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
For those who travel the globe on a regular basis, a reliable wrist companion can be vital. Being able to check the time where you are and where you live at a glance makes things very easy when rushing to catch a flight or having to make an urgent phone call. To help in situations […]
Fratello
The first Speedmaster to hit retail with a six-figure price is here! Well, that’s if you don’t count the complicated Speedmaster Chrono Chime. Omega introduces the platinum Speedmaster Calibre 321 with a material-matching flat-link bracelet, and at our local AD in The Hague, the price of that most prestigious Speedy is €107,500. If you’re in […] Visit Get Your €100K+ Speedy Now! Omega Offers The Speedmaster Calibre 321 With A New Platinum Flat-Link Bracelet to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko’s Alpinist collection is welcoming a new member this week with the release of a new GMT reference featuring a dial inspired by the hornbill, a tropical bird of Southeast Asia. The watch is a Land Alpinist using the brand’s 6R54 caliber, and while this is an existing configuration released back in 2023, there are a few unique details here worth noting - from dial textures and colors to the black bezel piece. This watch is not only a celebration of the majestic hornbill, but also an expansion of the Alpinist platform that goes beyond the existing framework, hopefully opening the door to more expressive variations moving ahead. The Alpinist GMT was released in 2023 in what felt like a very natural move for the collection. As part of the Prospex Land family, the new Alpinist references utilized a fixed, 24-hour steel bezel and an internally rotating compass bezel. Use of the 6R54 allowed the addition of a 24-hour hand into the mix; however this is the so-called “caller” style of GMT hand, meaning the hour hand cannot be set independently on the go. Still, it’s a welcome addition to the modern series carrying forth Seiko’s historic Alpinist name, and retains the charming design of the original. This newest reference to the collection is the SPB493J, and it mixes up the formula just enough to stand apart from the rest. This watch uses base blacks set against the steel 39.5mm case and bracelet, with the inclusion of a deep green color used for the rotating inn...
Worn & Wound
Many of us are guilty of it: in an entire collection, every last dial will be monochrome. White here, black there, and a dash of silver or grey mixed in. If one is particularly daring, there may even be a dark blue dial added in. But versatility isn’t everything - sometimes, a bright, in-your-face dial is the perfect antidote to a grey day. Watch dials have historically been places of decoration. Painted enamel dials were popular in the nineteenth century, with such vivid imagery as landscapes, battles, and hunting scenes adorning them. Though neglected through the early twentieth century, the colorful dial - now in more vibrant bursts of color - saw a vivid return in the mid-twentieth century when companies were scrambling to produce new timekeepers for the burgeoning underwater sport of SCUBA diving. A colorful dial can signal the change in seasons. For many, a bright dial immediately conjures images of sunny vacations, warm water, and worn paperbacks, while a muted dial can be the perfect companion during bleak midwinters, perfectly accenting the changed environment. A well-chosen dial can also inject color into both your collection and wardrobe, providing the right accent piece and adding the missing link in an otherwise perfect outfit. In this week’s Chronicle, we’re looking at some of our favorite colorful dials for those occasions when nothing else will do. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. I...
Time+Tide
Here's everything you need to know about Switzerland's most prolific movement supplier.The post Everything you need to know about Sellita appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Following successful boutique openings in Shanghai, Beijing, and Hong Kong – and with upcoming locations planned for Delhi and Seoul in 2025 – H. Moser & Cie. continues its global expansion with a new home in the United States. The brand has officially arrived in Silicon Valley, opening a boutique in Menlo Park. And for […]
Deployant
Czapek repeases the Promindate plissé. Plisse being French for pleats. The dial is very interesting on this one, and it is available in 3 different colours.
Monochrome
If you have kids, you’re probably familiar with the Moomins – the lovely, hippo-shaped fairy tale characters created by Finnish author Tove Jansson. First introduced in 1945, these charming creatures have inspired everything from books and comic strips to TV series, films, and theme parks. Their whimsical world also caught the eye of Finnish watchmaker […]
SJX Watches
Sarpaneva returns to the Swedish comic, but this with a twist: the Moomin 80 features a skeletonised steel dial with a “shooting star” aperture that reveals the hours on a rotating disc. Making its debut in two versions, the latest Moomin edition retains the signature elements of its predecessors, including the familiar Sarpaneva case with flared flanks and a hand-finished dial filled with multi-coloured Super-Luminova. As with the Sarpaneva x Moomin release four years ago, the dial draws inspiration from a comic book scene. Initial thoughts This is the third Moomin edition, with the last one, a diver’s watch, launched a year ago. It would have been repetitive if this was instead a rehash with a different scene on the dial, but the latest edition stands out for the unique hour display. Although the hours are mechanically straightforward, it is different enough to make this distinct from the preceding Moomin models. Priced at €13,500, the Moomin 80 costs a little more than the earlier version that was €12,000. The price remains competitive considering the overall craftsmanship, most of which lies in the hand-finished dial that is also painted by hand. Both the rotor and case are also high quality and made in-house by Sarpaneva, adding to the value proposition. The two versions of the Moomin 80 Intricate dial works The Moomin 80 employs the trademark Sarpaneva case made of Finnish stainless steel. It’s chunky but appropriately sized and creates a coherent aesthet...
Fratello
I don’t have a lot of vintage watches on my wishlist anymore. Some, I was lucky enough to find over the years. Others, I moved on from or saw in the metal, which changed my perspective about them. Very few examples, though, still make my heart beat faster. I must admit that most of these […] Visit Behold The Magnificent Angelus Chrono-Datoluxe to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Thoughtful minimalism in innovative materials at approachable prices is what defines this Italian microbrand.The post What makes D1 Milano different from most microbrands? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
January 2025 saw straight declines across the board for the WatchCharts Overall Market Index which fell by -0.9%, as well as for the Rolex (-0.8%), Patek Philippe (-0.9%), and Audemars Piguet (-0.5%) indexes. These declines are comparable to what we observed a year ago in February 2024 and two years ago in February 2023.
Monochrome
Abraham-Louis Breguet was the leading watchmaker of his day and enjoyed the patronage of France’s royalty and aristocracy. Among the names on his VIP list was Caroline Murat, aka the Reine de Naples, Napoleon Bonaparte’s youngest sister, who was a keen collector of Breguet’s horological marvels. The Reine de Naples collection is a free interpretation […]
Fratello
In the great Grand Seiko tradition, the horological year starts early. We already covered the brand’s first releases of 2025 on January 31st, and Mike wrote about another on February 3rd. Now, less than two weeks into the month, Grand Seiko treats us to one more delight. Today, the brand announces the wonderful SBGH368 “Sakura […] Visit Introducing: The Absolutely Wonderful Grand Seiko SBGH368 “Sakura Kakushi” to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko's latest cherry blossom-inspired design is a precious metal heaterThe post Precious cherry blossom – the Grand Seiko SBGH368 debuts a 38mm 62GS case in pink gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
A concept that we’re always coming back to at Worn & Wound is the thrill of discovering something new. This is fundamentally what the Windup Watch Fairs are all about, this idea that anyone can walk into a show and happen across something that is completely new and exciting, whether you’re a seasoned veteran of the hobby or brand new to it. While I certainly admit to a bit of a bias toward the unusual having worked in the space long enough to become a bit tired of the generic, for me this has always been key to my enthusiasm, and I’m just a lot more likely to stop and read a press release or pick up and try on a watch if it looks, sounds, or feels unfamiliar to me. That’s the feeling I had when I came across the press release for the new release Apiar, a British brand who will sell five examples of the new Gen1.B at the upcoming British Watchmaker’s Day event in March. Apiar is a brand I had only a passing familiarity with – they are a relatively new brand on the affordable indie scene – and I found the images of the Gen1.B to be quite striking and the concept behind the brand interesting in its own right. Apiar was founded by Matt Oosthuizen and Sam White, a designer and engineer, respectively. They bring a contemporary, tech forward approach to watchmaking, and are building the brand on a trio of core principles: Build Impossible, Build Sustainable, and Build British. The idea is to create watches that take on shapes and forms that in their design that ha...
Worn & Wound
Author A.A. Milne wrote in Winnie the Pooh, “When you see someone putting on his big boots, you can be pretty sure that an adventure is going to happen.” I’m of the opinion that one should always be prepared for a little adventure, and thereby a believer in a good pair of boots, just in case. I can definitively say that shoes are not one of my many vices. If I’m leaving the house, there are two options I will wear 90% of the time: white Nike Air Force Ones, or a pair of leather Chelsea boots. I opt for the latter during the seven-month-long snow season we get in Colorado. Chelsea boots have been my staple since I can remember, as they’re versatile and easy to slip on as I’m running out the door. When I find something I like, I stick with it, only replacing something when necessary and never straying too far from what I know. It was a big deal then, when I swapped my Embury Leather Casual Dr. Martens Chelsea boots for a pair of Blundstone Classic 587s last March. Dr. Martens were my brand of choice for six years. The same pair of Chelsea boots guided me through the streets of Paris in 2018 and a solo trip to Ireland four years later. My Blundstones are coming up on their first birthday this March, and have traipsed through dirt and debris along Route 66 as well as seven states and a handful of National Parks. Both brands have a lot to offer in terms of heritage, specs, and fit, and both deserve consideration in one’s quest for the perfect Chelsea boot. Bra...
Quill & Pad
The dial of the Czapek Promenade Plissé gives the impression of fabric being pushed and bunched up by the sub-dial into pleats across the dial.
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