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Revolution
Aviation and dive watch enthusiasts might know Sinn, a cult brand that has a rich history of developing high-accuracy and highly durable utilitarian watches. Among its 2023 debuts was the T50, a 500m water-resistant watch that comes in titanium or Sinn’s alloy called “Goldbronze”, that is awaiting patent. The T50 is 41mm in case size […]
Worn & Wound
This year, Hermès has expanded their H08 line with their Watches & Wonders novelties, adding several new colors to the base model in their composite case material, as well as a very impressive monopusher chronograph. Hermès is a favorite meeting at Watches & Wonders. The brand has a history that sits well outside traditional Swiss watchmaking culture. As a luxury design house, they are primarily known for their leather work, and the iconography of the brand is largely associated with their roots in equestrian sports. They have greatly expanded their watchmaking reach in recent years, however, with Vaucher supplied movements and a series of winning designs that have legitimized the brand in the watchmaking space. The H08 was introduced two years ago as the “sporty-chic” Hermès sports watch. This year’s new introductions feature the brand’s very interesting composite material, made from a mix of carbon fiber and graphene powder. The result is a lightweight 39mm case that Hermès claims is resistant to wear, and it has a unique textured appearance that looks almost hammered by hand but is smooth to the touch (Hermès says it’s coated with aluminum and slate powder). Whether or not the aesthetic is appealing will be a largely subjective matter, but the case has a great weight and feel on the wrist, and the cushion shape is comfortable and seems well suited to casual, daily wear. The case is accented with a black ceramic bezel that makes for a great contrast with...
Worn & Wound
Day 2 of Watches & Wonders is history, and the Worn & Wound team is back to recap the day’s events once again. Today saw more meetings, more video shoots, and more frantically checking our calendars to make sure we don’t miss a key appointment. There were also plenty of surprises, from brands that we have known and loved for years, and also some that we all want to learn more about. Check our reactions to day 2 below. Zach Kazan Watches and Wonders Day 2 started, thankfully, after a good night’s sleep. To this point, the effects of jetlag have been mostly pretty minimal, and waking up early, having a real breakfast, and starting the day on Swiss time in mind and body was certainly a positive development. Some people come to these shows, put in a full day of work, and party hard well into the evening, and frankly I’m not sure how those people survive the week while meeting deadlines. I’ve learned that a nice thing that happens at an event like this is that a brand will inevitably surprise you, either with the watches they’re exhibiting, the presentation, or both. That happened today with TAG Heuer, who have introduced new Carreras that are more appealing than just about chronograph I’ve seen them release in the last three or four years. And that’s a lot of chronographs. Zach Weiss will have more on these tomorrow, but they’re an early favorite of the show for me. In person, they were so much stronger than I expected based on the brand supplied images. No...
Revolution
Revolution Founder Wei Koh introduces the new Carrera timepieces by TAG Heuer. These tribute timepieces pay homage to the early Carrera models, their motor racing-inspired vintage details and the rich history of TAG Heuer.
Time+Tide
Speake-Marin’s history is one drenched in luxury with bespoke offerings and a blend of tradition and futurism that very few brands can pull off as well. Last year, they changed gears by introducing the Ripples - their first integrated bracelet watch in steel. This is one of the most competitive markets for luxury wristwatches, and … ContinuedThe post The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans exudes casual elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface looks to the brand’s history for inspiration Combining a retrograde date and tourbillon, it’s the next in line of complicated Traditionnelle references, the 2162 R31 calibre awarded a Geneva Seal The Openface sapphire dial’s gold surfaces are guillochéd by hand Despite what the name suggests, Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle collection … ContinuedThe post The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface blends classic complications with modern execution appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
With a distinctive style inspired by historical military dive watches, Panerai has pivoted to a more contemporary aesthetic in recent years. This year the brand is once again looking back into its history with the Radiomir “Otto Giorni” PAM01347 and PAM01348. Both models are modelled on historical designs but executed in modern colours and finishes. Initial thoughts Both watches are essentially facelifted versions of the Radiomir 8 Days PAM00992, sharing the same dial layout and in-house manual movement. While the PAM00992 was historically inspired (though not a remake of any one model), the newly launched pair is clearly more modern. The two watches are clearly targeted at someone who likes the Panerai style, but wants something more current in terms of colours and textures. With that in mind, the PAM01347 and PAM01348 are sensible and successful new launches. Both watches use recycled steel for the case, but more notable is the “aged” case finish that goes well with the textured, smoked dial. Otto Giorni Like most Radiomir models, the PAM01347 and PAM01348 are rooted in the dive watch developed by Panerai (and produced by Rolex) in 1935 for the Italian navy. With its distinctive cushion case and wire lugs (recognisable as a Rolex pocket watch with additional, soldered lugs), the Radiomir is one of Panerai’s signature models alongside the Luminor. While the historical Radiomir was a massive 47 mm in diameter, more recent Radiomir models are 45 mm, as is th...
Time+Tide
Four new colours for a traditionally sized TAG Heuer Carrera time-only model A revised case profile with improved thickness and wearability Upgraded from Calibre 5 to Calibre 7 History is a hugely important aspect of any new Carrera release, owing to the rich heritage of the model and the moments and personalities associated with it. … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer Carrera Date is a quarter in colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
For Vacheron Constantin, 2023 is the year of the retrograde date. The brand kicks off the year with three references featuring this unusual complication, led by the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface. Vacheron Constantin has a rich history in retrograde displays that dates back almost 100 years, and the Traditionnelle Tourbillon takes things up a notch with a hand-engraved, open-worked dial. Initial thoughts The new Traditionnelle Tourbillon is a tidy little package that tweaks an existing movement to create a surprisingly different watch thanks to an open-worked dial that uses the retrograde mechanism as a design element. The result is a watch that is recognisable as a Traditionnelle Tourbillon – it has many of the hallmarks of the line – but one that instantly stands apart. The new look also compliments the largish case well. Size-wise the new tourbillon is almost identical to the standard Traditionnelle Tourbillon with a conventional dial. But while the standard model feels a little large at 41 mm due to its classical styling, the new model feels more natural in its size thanks to its contemporary aesthetics. In terms of its value proposition, the estimated price of €200,000 is consistent with its stature, if a bit on the high side. It’s slightly more than the brand’s own Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton, a watch that features the same base movement dressed in more elaborate finishing. Of course, it’s not an apples-to-apples comparison since th...
Time+Tide
Breitling releases new Premier B01 Chronographs with a slimmer profile Six models, five new dial colors, available in stainless steel and gold The collection celebrates the 80th anniversary of their Premier chronographs If there’s one thing Breitling is synonymous with, it’s their history of innovation with chronographs and chronograph movements. According to Breitling, after decades … ContinuedThe post The new Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph collection celebrates the 80th anniversary of the classic model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Wei visits the medieval town of St. Blaise, Switzerland, the home of independent watchmaker Louis Moinet to speak with Owner and CEO Jean-Marie Schaller about the significance of the brand that he revived and the direction it needs to go for the future. Watchmaking history was rewritten in 2016 when Louis Moinet was awarded a […]
Worn & Wound
The Longines Spirit collection welcomes a new member today with the release of a new Flyback Chronograph, bringing a (perhaps surprising) element of Longines heritage into the mix along the way. Longines may not be the first name that comes to mind when hearing the word ‘flyback’ but it probably should be, and this latest Spirit watch will serve as a reminder to the brand’s extensive history with the complication, which dates back to the 1920’s. Visually, the new Spirit Flyback Chronograph presents a cleaner execution than the existing chronograph, placing emphasis on the uniqueness of this complication, however the visual identity of the Spirit collection is clear and present here. Let’s take a quick step back, and get a better understanding of Longines’ place in history when it comes to the flyback complication. Longines had a lovely chronograph movement called the 13.33Z first introduced in 1913, which, later in life, likely served as a testbed for the flyback mechanism that would flourish in the more well-known 13Z. As far as we know, Longines placed the first flyback mechanism within the 13.33Z in 1929, and it wouldn’t be until June 12th of 1935 that the brand filed for Swiss patent on the mechanism, which would go on to be granted in March of 1936 (Brevet 183262). There’s much more to read on the topic, which has been covered beautifully by SJX and collector Dr. Christian Müller right here. Not that Longines needed an excuse to release their own fl...
Worn & Wound
Human flight has long been an inspiration and a momentous force within Fortis’ history. Dating back to as early as 1929, Lady Grace Drummond-Hay completed the world’s first circumnavigation in a Zeppelin LZ127 – on her wrist, a Fortis Harwood. In 1995, Fortis was also a part of a record-breaking flight that took aeronautical photographer, Alexandre Paringaux, to an altitude of 30,045m, reaching speeds as high as Mach 3.13 in a Mig-25 PU. Around that time, Fortis had also released their first-ever Flieger, aptly named the Sky-watch. Fortis Flieger F-43 Bicompax Petrol Inspired by the functional designs of the B-Uhr harkening back to WWII, the Sky-watch had all the tell-tale features of a traditionally designed pilot’s watch – can’t miss Arabic hour numerals, triangular 12 o’clock marker, and sword hands. Up until today, particularly the use of a black dial, splash of orange accents, and sickly green markers and hands, that design has largely remained unchanged. Recently, Fortis has injected some color into their entire Flieger collection with an array of different dial colors giving their pilot’s watch a new-found contemporary energy. Fortis Flieger F-39 Petrol First up in the Fortis fleet, we have the Flieger F-39 and F-41 sporting three new dial colors: Black, Petrol, and Liberty Blue. The difference that immediately stands are the markers and hands that no longer have the faded luminova shade. Instead, they’ve been whited out, but still remain legible a...
Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen’s formula for success is quite simple. Since the brand came back bursting onto the scene by re-releasing collection mainstays in the Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver and the Antarctic in 2020, Guillaume Laidet and Remi Chabrat has continued to tap into the brand’s expansive vintage catalog full of no-fuss field watches, funky divers and bold chronographs. Bit by bit, Nivada Grenchen has given us a full-on history lesson with a steady cadence of re-releases built for the modern day wearer and enthusiast. The brand has also made more of a concentrated effort by providing more affordable options with the same charming vintage aesthetic. I think I can speak for everyone when I say, we welcome all of this with open arms (especially the affordable part). But Nivada Grenchen isn’t just a one trick pony. We’ve seen the brand take more of an open-minded approach via their collaborations. Heck, we got a flurry of them to close out 2022, with each special edition piece embracing what their collaborative partner brings to table, while simultaneously encapsulating the brand’s 70’s vintage design language. I’ve said this plenty of times, and I’ll say it again, collaborations allow brands to let their hair down. To step outside of the box. To try something entirely new. And the result is something quite refreshing for us enthusiasts. That’s exactly what we’ve been getting from Nivada Grenchen and their forays into the collaborative space. Now Nivada Gren...
![[VIDEO] The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph is the Aquaracer We’ve Been Waiting For](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/03/Tag-Solargraph_031.jpg)
Worn & Wound
The TAG Heuer Aquaracer has had a relatively sorted history since its introduction in 2004, taking on a range of identities scarcely connected between era specific design codes that come and go. The bits that have connected through the years remain as compelling today as they were in the pre-Aquaracer 2000 Series watches, and after a generation of Aquaracer growth, their latest effort in the Solargraph feels to have finally found a lasting voice by tying it all together in a cohesive package. This is the first Aquaracer since those early 2000 Series watches that has felt like a fully matured concept to my eye, and I hope it’s a sign of things to come within the family. To this day the Aquaracer exists in many forms spread across the Aquaracer 200, 300, and 1000 ranges. Each adopts the general dive watch aesthetic at the core of the collection, but you’ll find complications ranging from chronographs and GMTs alongside gem-set colorful dials in a range of sizes. It’s a collection that covers a lot of ground. The Solargraph, as seen in its newest guise released earlier this year, manages to capture a near perfect distillation of the Aquaracer design language, and manages enough restraint to feel like a fresh, and I’ll venture to say more timeless execution of the theme. That’s merely at first blush, however. We recently spent some time with the watch to see just how well that pans out in practice. $3050 [VIDEO] The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph is the Aquaracer W...
Worn & Wound
If I had a time machine to visit any point in history, my adventurous spirit would punch in the year 1969. This was already a period rich with daring exploration, technological innovation, and historical achievement that inevitably led to the culmination of the Space Race with NASA putting a man on the moon. But that wasn’t the only “high stakes” race going on at the time. Watch brands all over the world were jockeying for position to see who could make the most robust tool watch for explorers foraying into the most extreme conditions including the unknown depths of the ocean, mountainous death zones, and of course, outer space. Ollech & Wajs was one of the brands that were most certainly in the mix with their own multi-functional triple register chronograph aptly dubbed the Astrochron. The Astrochron’s distinctive multi-scale display made it a popular choice among engineers and scientists in NASA’s research and development lab including Chief Rocket Scientist, Werner Von Braun, or otherwise known as the “father of space travel.” Equipped with a rotating 12 hour bezel, tachymeter scale on the dial, chronograph timer, and a slew of other attractive tool watch features, the Astrochron found its way onto the wrists of sportsmen, pilots, and ship officers alike. Recently, Ollech & Wajs has decided to revisit the design and one glance will confirm that this isn’t your original 1967 Astrochron. With the new refresh, Ollech & Wajs’ already capable multi-function...
Worn & Wound
For months now, you’ve been in hot pursuit of a new watch. You want a diver, something sturdy, from a brand with history. Preferably something iconic from their catalog. By now, this feels like quite a daunting task. Especially when you’re working with just $600 in your watch fund. For months now, you’ve been in hot pursuit of a new watch. You want a diver, something sturdy, from a brand with history. Preferably something iconic from their catalog. By now, this feels like quite a daunting task. Especially when you’re working with just $600 in your watch fund. The post The Affordable Diver That Should Be On Your List – Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Revolution
Watches with a military heritage or connection have always held the fascination of collectors and enthusiasts, due to their robust qualities and a love for the romanticized ideals of fighting for one’s country. And then there is a special class of chronographs used throughout history by German military pilots, also known as fliegers, that have […]
Revolution
Automatons, or autonomous mechanical objects have a storied history that can be traced all the way back to ancient times. They were mostly modeled after animals, plants or other forms of natural phenomena, amusing and delighting audiences through their seemingly spontaneous movements. Many modern-day automatons follow in this tradition but not Jacob & Co. The […]
Quill & Pad
Chris Malburg highlights some of the finest examples of perpetual calendar watches today and dives into their history.
Hodinkee
From Patek to Omega, five pulsation chronographs after our own hearts.
Quill & Pad
Master Watchmaker John McGonigle of Oileán Watches, in the first of two presentations, gives a brief history of the development of watches and how they were initially made, their progression to precision instruments, the industrialisation of watchmaking, how modern techniques and materials have been adapted and how current hand-crafted watches fit into all of this.
Time+Tide
Calling Circula a microbrand feels like a bit of a disservice considering their history, but their approach to unique design and modern brand identity really does align with that of a much younger company. First founded in the Black Forest region of Germany in 1955 by Heinz Huber, who had been running a watch and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Circula AquaSport GMT is a funky diver with ’70s swagger appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Longines receives a lot of well deserved acclaim from the watch community for the tasteful way they recreate historical watches. They not only have a knack for getting the proportions and small details of these watches just right, but over the years they’ve been incredibly smart about the watches they select to reissue. Longines is essentially curating a living museum of watches that are important not just to their own brand history, but watch history writ large. Even if a particular reference is not to your taste, the fact these watches are out there preserving the brand’s heritage is important – it allows enthusiasts to really learn something about watch history, even if they never own the watch in question. Their first novelty of 2023 is a prime example of Longines teaching all of us a little bit about their past. The Longines Pilot Majetek is an uncommon pilot’s watch with a design that has roots in the 1930s. When we think of aviation watches, our minds probably go to simple designs rooted in pure legibility. The IWC Mark series, for example, provides something of a foundation for how we understand pilot watches today. Big numerals, plenty of lume, and generous proportions. For a time in the 1920s and 30s, however, pilot’s watches made by Longines were defined by a feature we now associate with a very different type of tool watch: a rotating bezel. These so-called “aviation counters” placed an emphasis on timing the duration of a flight, and used a sim...
Deployant
Longines returns to its roots to recreate a pilot's watch for the wider audience. Presenting the new Pilot Majetek, created after 190 years of history.
Time+Tide
Junghans have a long and impressive history in the Black Forest region of Germany, so they’re definitely not afraid of some snow. Despite being famed for their heritage and Bauhaus designs, Junghans haven’t stopped developing new models and retro-futuristic styles either. The Junghans 1972 series captures two distinct levels of vintage oddity, now paired with … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Junghans 1972 FIS Nordic World Ski Championships editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In the quest for precision chronometry in a mechanical watch, perhaps no other component is as crucial as the escapement – often consisting of an escape wheel and lever that engage with the oscillating organ. The history of watchmaking recounts many an attempt at inventing a better-performing escapement, with some attempts naturally more successful than others. By the 20th century, the watch industry had settled upon the Swiss lever escapement, which has proven itself to be a reasonably solid performer and crucially, one fit for mass production. However, in the latter decades of the century, one English watchmaker attempted to challenge the industry status quo. In 1974, George Daniels invented the “co-axial escapement”, a seemingly novel and practical escapement of his own design that was conceived as an functionally superior alternative to the Swiss lever escapement. Daniels’ invention fulfilled his ambition, at least in part, when it was sold to Omega and then successfully industrialised starting in 1999; today it is found in hundreds of thousands of movements that Omega produces each year. The latest iteration of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is kitted out with the co-axial escapement With the merits of the co-axial escapement having been proven in part by its large-scale adoption, my aim here is not to examine its intrinsic qualities, but rather delve into its development. Specifically I will explore the fact that the co-axial escapement might not be an ent...
Time+Tide
Aviation has a longstanding history with timekeeping and wristwatches, but that doesn’t mean you need to have decades of heritage behind you to make an impact. MALM first launched their brand in 2019 and have grown quickly with an impressive catalogue of releases, alongside partnerships with the Swedish Air Force and the Swedish Navy. Being … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The MALM Air Wolf Viggen is a modern pilot’s watch with a Swedish twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
For any watch lover, there is always that “one watch” that either started their journey, or cemented their love of them. As a lifelong watch lover, Panerai was that brand, and the PAM 312 was that watch! Panerai is one of those polarizing brands. They have a great history, but over the past 10 years of so, they’ve lost their lustre and have been the centre of some controversy in the watch world. However, say what you want, the one thing that people can’t deny is how iconic the Luminor Marina and Submersible are. You see those curved edges on the case and THAT crown protector and you know it’s a PAM – you can spot them a mile off! Just a casual coffee day Others have tried to emulate it, but none have really succeeded in achieving the look and feel that a Panerai has on the wrist. Couple this with its rise in the late 90’s and early 2000’s due to its popularity among action heroes such as Sly Stallone, Jason Statham, Arnie and the like, and it’s easy to see why they became so popular. For me, it was less the action star association, and more that many of the successful people I was working with back in the early to mid 2000’s owned one. Seeing Panerai’s on successful people’s wrist, in hindsight, probably swayed my subconscious mind to want one – being a junior and aspiring professional myself, why not aspire to that? But more than this, I thought they looked great, were big (as was the trend then) and were very unique. Big bold numbers and indices...
Worn & Wound
It’s hard to believe, but Frederique Constant celebrates their 35th anniversary this year. This is a brand that’s truly part of the old guard when it comes to the contemporary, affordable watch scene. Making the “nice Swiss watch” accessible to the masses was a big part of why the brand was founded, and over the course of their history the entire watch industry has changed multiple times over, currently finding itself in a healthy spot where more and better watches are finding their way onto the wrists of enthusiasts at a pace that couldn’t have have been imagined three decades ago. The line between “luxury” and “affordable” continues to shift, and there’s no doubt that Frederique Constant has played a role in those changes. Specifically, Frederique Constant has broken new ground when it comes to making complicated watchmaking affordable. We all know about their excellent perpetual calendar, which they are still able to sell for a little less than $10,000 several years after its debut. But they also dabble in other historically significant and tech forward complications. Over the years we’ve seen everything from flyback chronographs to moon phases equipped watches, and of course their Slimline Monolithic with an ultra high frequency oscillator. But it could be argued that their signature complication, the one that the brand has leaned into the hardest and gained the most acclaim for, is the worldtimer. So it makes sense that for Frederique Constant...
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