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Review: The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds
Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in pink gold, fitted with a Milanese bracelet and dial also in pink gold.
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Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in pink gold, fitted with a Milanese bracelet and dial also in pink gold.
Fratello
It’s Sunday morning, and you all know what that means. It’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we paired two legendary chronographs because we found that we hadn’t pitted these particular versions against each other. It’s been roughly a year since Omega released the white-dial Moonwatch, but it feels like it was much […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Vs. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to read the full article.
Deployant
The Sinn 1739 Römerberg is a thoughtfully designed timepiece that pays tribute to Frankfurt's historic architecture. Its deep red sunburst dial reflects the red Main sandstone of the Haus zum Goldenen Rad, a building recognized for its restoration efforts. While visually striking, the polished stainless steel case and understated appliques maintain an elegant simplicity. The exhibition case back, featuring an engraving of the Frankfurt Römer, reinforces the watch’s connection to the city’s heritage.
Fratello
Have you ever thought about summering in Hölstein? After seeing the Oris Aquis Date Taste of Summer Capsule Collection, you might want to consider it. The colors of the Swiss town in the warmest months of the year inspired the dials of these watches. One version shows a gradient sunrise-like red-pink dial, while the other […] Visit Introducing: The Oris Aquis Date Taste Of Summer Capsule Collection - It’s Hot And Happening In Hölstein to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Sotheby’s upcoming Geneva auction that takes place on May 11 is a relatively compact affair. But the 124 lots includes notable highlights, with the top lot of the sale being the especially unique Rolex Daytona “Zenith” ref. 16516 in platinum with a pink mother-of-pearl dial. This watch is one of just four Daytonas combining the El Primero movement and platinum case – the only platinum specimens in the 16500-series Daytona – all of which were made at the behest of former Rolex chief executive Patrick Heiniger in 1999. Famous for being powered by the cal. 4030 derived from the Zenith El Primero, the 16500-series was the first-ever self-winding Daytona. The model was never commercially available in platinum; the four examples in platinum are truly unique. Moreover, each of the four are one-of-a-kind, each fitted with a different dial in exotic materials. Sotheby’s sold the prior three examples, starting with black mother-of-pearl in 2018, lapis lazuli in 2020, and turquoise in 2021. While those three featured applied Arabic numbers, this example has diamond hour markers. Initial thoughts The unique nature of this Daytona is unquestionable. Amongst automatic Daytonas this ranks amongst the rarest and most valuable. Two of its platinum siblings sold for over US$3 million each, making them the priciest modern-day Daytonas. Of the four platinum Daytonas, however, this example is the most paradoxical. It’s the most unusual in having diamond indices, but also the most...
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Monochrome
That above is a quote from The Philosophy of Dress by Oscar Wilde, whose wardrobe was a hallmark of the Brit’s flamboyant and eccentric personality. Imagine flowing capes, wide-brimmed hats, luxurious fur and velvet… Regarding dress watches, specific images are almost instinctive: slim profiles, minimalist three-hand layouts, and timeless dial tones – black, navy, white, […]
SJX Watches
One of several strong new releases from Patek Philippe this year, the Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G is a simple day-date watch distinguished by an all-new manually wound, eight-day movement. Carrying on the contemporary aesthetic of the Calatrava ref. 5226G and Annual Calendar ref. 5326G, the new watch features a grained fumé dial and an 18k white gold case with a middle fully encircled with clous de Paris guilloche. The ref. 5238G is purposeful in its design, which gives it a casual, almost tool watch-like appearance that offers a pleasing contrast to its overtly luxurious case and movement. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe put on a good show at Watches & Wonders this year, and the ref. 5328G might be my favourite of the bunch. The watch has a strong presence thanks to its hobnail case band and instrument-like dial, but it really stands out when you turn the watch over and see the vintage-inspired bridge architecture. Patek Philippe is usually pretty utilitarian when it comes to movement design, so it’s nice to see them let their hair down and have some fun with this one. The fumé navy blue dial features an asphalt-like texture first seen on the ref. 5226G introduced in 2022. The ref. 5328G also benefits from this predecessor’s lumed syringe hands and clean Arabic numerals, which give it the earnest, purposeful feel of a deck watch. Patek Philippe is not known for its typographical expertise, but here even the numerals on the date ring strike the right tone. The watch f...
Hodinkee
Celebrating a milestone with a new dial design, a new movement, and a friendly new price point for the brand's first manually-wound watch.
SJX Watches
In the fifth episode of the SJX Podcast, Brandon Moore and SJX discuss Breguet’s reinterpretation of the Souscription for its 250th anniversary, as well as a historical Breguet watches coming up for auction, including a pocket watch owned by Napoleon’s sister and the very first modern-day Breguet Sympathique. We also talk about Christopher Ward’s daring new C12 with a dial-side balance wheel and very contemporary styling, before moving on to antique watches and clocks coming up for auction at Phillips in Geneva, including a 1920s portico mystery clock by Cartier in the “orientalist” style. Lastly, we finish some complicated pocket watches, which are perhaps under appreciated but magnificent examples of horology. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
Fratello
Just six months after debuting with the ALD model in four dial options, Dennison has returned with a group of new releases. The big news is the brand’s first collaboration, a new piece with Collectability. Four other watches join the catalog, proving this retro design is highly versatile. Last November, I reviewed the initial Dennison […] Visit Dennison Collaborates With Collectability And Introduces Four New ALD Pieces to read the full article.
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SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne delivered one of its most impressive complications at Watches & Wonders 2025, but it was the brand’s entry level novelty that was the talk of the town. The 1815 34 mm won many admirers, and for good reason; it’s attractive, comfortable, well-made, and priced right – an increasingly rare combination. Available in either 18k white or pink gold, the new 1815 is a regular production model but features a galvanic blue dial most often associated with the brand’s limited editions. It joins the Saxonia Thin as Lange’s entry-level offering; both are priced comparably but look and feel very different. Initial thoughts Small watches are back, and the 1815 design works perfectly in the 34 mm size due to its bold numerals, which help it maintain a strong presence on the wrist. The case size now goes without saying, but it’s worth mentioning the 6.4 mm thickness, which places it among the brand’s thinnest watches. This sizing is effortlessly comfortable, and the abundance of gold, sterling silver, and German silver give it reassuring heft. Like most Lange dials, the stepped blue dial of the 1815 is made from sterling silver that’s been given a galvanic finish. This particular shade of blue is often used for limited editions like the 25th anniversary Datograph and 30th anniversary Lange 1, which makes it feel extra special. Longtime fans of the brand will recall this dial harks back to the first-generation 1815 that was available with a similar dial (and...
Teddy Baldassarre
Inarguably, the Cartier Tank in its many iterations is one of the most significant, easily recognizable, and, ultimately, iconic watches of all time. One can easily spot its quintessential mixing of a rectangular case and simple, legible dial design (most commonly, with Roman numerals, thin sword hands, and the signature Cartier script), out in the wild. It’s a watch that was unisex before unisex was a marketing buzzword across the industry, and since it went into serial production in 1919 has been executed in as many sizes, colors, and materials as one could dream up. Most would agree that the Tank still retains the title of the ultimate rectangular watch in the larger cultural consciousness. While all of the above is true, we are gathered here today not only to wax poetic on the subject of Cartier’s illustrious Tank, but to dive into a somewhat controversial subject - more wallet-friendly alternatives to the Tank. I will go bravely forth into what might be looked upon as a horological faux-pas. Still, given that I am personally subjected to the plight of needing to be different, have a natural hesitation towards what is most popular, and am not afraid to stick to a budget when necessary, I think I am uniquely fit for the task. Additionally, I am of the mind that imitation is the ultimate form of flattery, so you can also feel free to read this as a love letter to the Cartier Tank. Down below, I’ve rounded up some contemporary alternatives to the Cartier Tank ...
Monochrome
Last year, Oris whet our appetite with two watermelon-coloured 41.5mm dive models, which added a fresh new look to the Aquis Date series, already featuring quite a variety of dial options, including dark green, blue, black, cherry red, and the upcycled, multi-coloured one. For this summer season, the Hölstein-based brand gets a bit more poetic […]
SJX Watches
In what’s become an annual tradition, Tudor has just revealed a special edition on the eve of the Miami Grand Prix. But unlike last year’s Black Bay “Chameleon” destined only for the drivers of the Visa Cash App RB Formula 1 Team (VCARB), the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” is a commercially available timepiece – but in a limited edition of 2,025 pieces. The Carbon 25 is presented in a carbon composite case, matched with a domed dial in the colours of the VCARB team that also sports carbon composite registers. Initial thoughts I’m a fan of Tudor in general, mainly because of the strong value proposition the brand offers in all its watches. The chronographs stand out as amongst the best in the price segment. However, the chronographs in steel are a little thick and weighty; the Carbon 25 definitely reduces the weight substantially, and it’s also a tiny bit slimmer. Tudor already has a carbon-case chronograph in the collection (that is actually thinner), but the Carbon 25 has a more appealing case design that retains all of the elements of the steel case, including the bevelled lugs. One detail that stands out are the carbon composite inserts in between the lugs that give the strap a better visual integration into the case. I like the Carbon 25, enough that I would buy one, but the watch is the most expensive chronographs in the Tudor catalogue, with a price of US$7,575. It is still well priced compared to the competition, but priced substantially more expensi...
Deployant
Tudor released a new Black Bay 58, now with a brilliant burgundy dial and a matching bezel. The deep red hue isn’t just a bold aesthetic choice; it’s a tribute to a 1990s Tudor Submariner prototype that featured a similar burgundy dial and bezel. While that prototype never made it to production, its influence is undeniable in this new release.
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Monochrome
Founded in 2010 by Belgian industrial designer Benoît Mintiens, Ressence’s design philosophy revolves around deconstructing and displaying time in a contemporary, dynamic way, without the use of hands. Time literally circles around the dial like planets orbiting the Sun, indicated by highly graphic and revolving sub-dials animated by Ressence’s patented Orbital Convex System (ROCS). At […]
Fratello
When Doxa dropped the new Sub 250T GMT a month ago, it was met with near-universal praise. Nine different dial options debuted, including the most famous Doxa colorways. We saw all of them in Geneva and had the opportunity to spend time with them at Fratello HQ. Today, I’ll review these pieces and address the […] Visit Hands-On With The Sublime Doxa Sub 250T GMT to read the full article.
SJX Watches
After teasing collectors with the compact Chronomètre Furtif Bleu in 2023, F.P. Journe has unveiled its successor, the Chronomètre Furtif (CF). The CF offers the same dimensions as its predecessor as well as a similar laser-engraved grand feu enamel dial, but takes the idea of furtif, or “stealthy”, even further with black-on-black livery. While the CF Bleu was a one-off piece in tantalum made for the Only Watch charity auction where it sold for CHF2 million, the new CF is a regular production model crafted almost entirely from scratch-resistant tungsten carbide. Initial thoughts The CF is a watch that hits you over the head with its intense darkness and exceptional weight. It’s not dark in the same way as an H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Vantablack, which effectively absorbs light; rather, the dial is a deep glossy black like the glass of an iPhone screen. This reflectivity makes it difficult to photograph but easy to enjoy. These characteristics are thanks to the flawless black grand feu enamel dial and laser-engraved markings. Because of the way the light plays across the dial, it looks slightly different from almost every angle. It’s a dramatic and interactive dial that contributes significantly to the overall wearing experience. The CF is a true heavyweight, tipping the scales at 250 g. But it feels even heavier on account of its wearable 42 mm footprint and slim 9.55 mm thickness. This size-to-weight ratio gives it an almost overwhelming sense of density. The wa...
Monochrome
Raymond Weil’s Millesime collection has fast become the brand’s bestseller, thanks to its convincing retro design, decent outsourced automatic movements, and competitive prices. The Millesime Chronograph was added to the collection last year and stands out with its attractive reverse panda dial references. The latest 39mm chronographs, available in steel with a grey dial and […]
Monochrome
Back in 2021, Swedish brand Tusenö released the original Shellback diver that was a classic and more modern take on its prior Blackwater diver, one that had proved itself in the hands of the Swedish Sea Rescue Society (a voluntary search and rescue organisation). The original Shellback introduced a contemporary sandwich dial and updated logo […]
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Massena LAB releases the new Noctograph, a third collaboration with independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès: the watch is steel, with a vintage like sector dial.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
After getting into watches seriously, the Orient Mako was the diver that served as the gateway drug into this hobby. I know it was either that or a Seiko SKX for most of us but because of this, the Orient Mako will always have a special place in the collection. I still have it, it was my wedding watch, and that beautiful blue dial still gets me from time to time. Recently, the brand announced a set of anniversary models for their 75th anniversary and the dials just shot out in a way that was too appealing to not mention here on TBWS. Let's take a look at these new Orient Mako references RA-AA0823L and RA-AC0Q12L.
SJX Watches
Hermès recently revisited a whimsical complication first introduced some 14 years ago, the Arceau Le Temps Suspendu. Still retaining the quirky “suspended time” complication, the new Arceau Le Temps Suspendu gains a multi-layer, open-worked dial that reveals the interesting mechanics behind the mechanism. And it’s been scaled down slightly to 42 mm thanks to a movement upgrade. Initial thoughts I liked the original Le Temps Suspendu, both in terms of form and function. The complication isn’t practical, but it is unique and appropriate for the elegant, whimsical house style of Hermès. The original was a large watch, and the modestly downsized new version is an improvement. The thinner case is possible thanks to a Vaucher base movement, which is a step up over the ETA 2892 in the original. More notably, the open-worked dial adds substantially to the visual appeal. Besides giving the dial more depth, it reveals the surprisingly complex mechanism devised by Agenhor for Hermès. Though the complication is simple on its face, the mechanics required to pull it off are significant, and now they are on show. And most surprising of all, the new Arceau Le Temps Suspendu costs less than the original from 2011, with the rose gold variants priced a little under US$40,000. This is despite the upgraded base movement and more elaborate dial. It runs counter to prevailing practice in high-end watchmaking, and reflects the generally reasonably pricing of Hermès watches. Suspendin...
Fratello
Montblanc began making watches in 1997, but in reality, the brand’s watchmaking history runs a lot deeper. In 2007, the noted penmaker purchased Minerva, a revered Swiss manufacture founded in 1857. Since then, complicated pieces have carried the famous name on the movement and, at times, on the dial. Today’s 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar Limited […] Visit Introducing: The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar Limited Edition to read the full article.
Fratello
When you buy a high-end mechanical watch, you may expect a few things - a fine guilloché dial, for example, and/or a smoothly sweeping seconds hand. British watchmaker Garrick sure knows how to deliver both of those. However, you get neither of them with the new S3 Deadbeat Seconds. What you do get, though, is […] Visit Introducing: The New Garrick S3 Deadbeat Seconds to read the full article.
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