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Results for Three-Quarter Plate (3/4-Platine)

2,481 articles · 619 videos found · page 95 of 104

Exclusive: Under the Dial of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Owned May 23, 2023

Exclusive: Under the Dial of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China

As I was examining the Patek Philippe ref. 96QL once owned by the last Emperor of China, I wondered about the state of the movement. The watch is clearly old – it was sold in almost a century ago – and was not running. Phillips wasn’t able to show me the movement on the spot, understandably considering the value of the watch, although they promised they would get me some information shortly. Their response was more than I expected. Taking the form of a forensic report detailing the materials and details of the watch – right down to a X-ray spectrographic analysis of the dial – the information reveals much about the watch. To start with, the spectrograph of the reverse of the dial reveals it is 92.4% silver, 6.94% copper, with the rest comprised of silver and gold. This finally answer the long-ago question posed by Puyi when he tasked his manservant “Big Li” to scrape off the dial’s coating in order to see if it is platinum like the case. It is but a brass dial plated in silver. The analysis of the dial’s back Inside the platinum case is an 11”’ movement that likely began as an ebauche from LeCoultre that was then completed by Victorin Piguet, which produced the simple calendar module on the top. The movement was then likely sent to Patek Philippe, which applied the finishing touches and cased it. The back of the movement is evidently classical, with the flowing bridges that were then the norm in movement design. It is also finished as high-end movemen...

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25 White-Dial Watches Suitable for Every Budget and Style Teddy Baldassarre
May 12, 2023

25 White-Dial Watches Suitable for Every Budget and Style

In a watch world increasingly populated by bolder and more eye-popping colorways, watches with white dials remain, for many, the epitome of elegance and understated style. White dials, in the estimation we used to compile the following list, are distinct from the more commonly seen “silvered” or “silver” dials, some of them with textures that enhance their three-dimensional appeal or matte finishes that impart to them an appealing sense of solidity. Scroll down to discover 25 of our favorite white-dial watches - as always, covering a wide array of price categories, and styles from dress to diver to pilot to GMT (no chronographs however; white “panda” dials with black subdials is a separate list).  Mondaine Classics Swiss Railway Watch   Price: $275, Case Size: 36 mm, Lug Width: 18 mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 30 m, Movement: Quartz Ronda 513 Founded in 1951 in Solothurn, Switzerland, Mondaine is a family-owned watch manufacturer that exudes pride in its essential Swissness (as evidenced by its logo, which incorporates the national flag. Mondaine’s signature product is also distinctly Swiss in its inspiration: the simply named Classics collection, the first of which was launched in 1986, derives its clean, ultra-legible, Bauhaus-flavored aesthetic from Switzerland’s distinctive (and notoriously accurate) railroad clocks. Based on the enduring design by Hans Hilfiker for the Federal Swiss Railways clock in 1944, the watch captures minimalism in...

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The Citizen Promaster Dive Automatic Gets a “Fugu” Makeover Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Dive Automatic Gets May 10, 2023

The Citizen Promaster Dive Automatic Gets a “Fugu” Makeover

Name any type of environment or situation, whether that be diving the depths of the ocean, exploring far-flung terrains, or navigating the skies, the Citizen Promaster without question has a very-capable watch for the job. But given the sheer amount of watches in Citizen’s catalog, their bread and butter remains within their collection of dive watches. Sure, you’ll find a straight-forward steel black dial diver, it’s a must for any watch brand. But just like how you’ll find fish in the ocean, you can also expect to discover a handful of eccentric divers with inquisitive case silhouettes and lume dials that’ll keep up with any bioluminescent organism in the dark. Citizen’s new addition to the Promaster Dive Automatic collection leans more into its marine animal namesake, the “Fugu” which in Japanese, translates to “pufferfish,” with its new dial texture, caseback emblem and a couple of case updates. Now it’s going to be obvious that I’ve used this introduction for Citizens Promaster Dive Automatic novelties as an excuse to learn more about the pufferfish, so be prepared for some facts about the well-known Tetraodontidae family member. That said, let’s dig right into the updates to the case, shall we? The three new Citizen divers are now fitted with a sapphire crystal and a 120-click unidirectional bezel. With the insert still made out of aluminum, Citizen has changed the bezel system to offer higher timing precision during diving scenarios such as ...

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Changing of the Guard: Bremont Celebrates the Coronation of King Charles III & New Leadership at The Wing Worn & Wound
Bremont Celebrates May 8, 2023

Changing of the Guard: Bremont Celebrates the Coronation of King Charles III & New Leadership at The Wing

There’s a certain level of homeland pride in every way that Bremont operates. It’s apparent in their designs and palpable throughout their entire company from top to bottom. The Giles brothers have made it their life’s mission to produce beautifully British-made mechanical watches and if there needs to be any more confirmation of how successfully that’s going, then let “The Wing”, Bremont’s vast campus and headquarters in Henley which has subsequently brought watchmaking back to U.K. shores, put any queries to bed. As Bremont ambassador and now friend of Worn & Wound, Alex Bescoby eloquently put it in a recent interview, “Bremont is all about beautifully putting together traditional and British design, and celebrating that.” Well, for the folks living across the pond, there’s lots to celebrate as this past weekend, in front of 2,200 ceremony attendees and millions watching around the world, King Charles III was crowned as Great Britain’s new monarch. It’s only fitting that Bremont, who already has an ongoing partnership with the Ministry of Defence (MoD) to honor His Majesty’s Armed Forces, has released two limited edition models that marks a moment in history with the coronation of His Majesty. The MBII King Charles III Limited Edition largely retains the familiar design cues of the Martin-Baker collection – dual crown configuration, internal rotating bezel, a distinct knurled barrel design and internal case reinforcements. As every other Bremo...

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Urwerk Takes the UR100V Back to Basics with New “Magic T” Worn & Wound
Urwerk Takes May 4, 2023

Urwerk Takes the UR100V Back to Basics with New “Magic T”

Urwerk released the UR100 concept to the world in late 2019 with a watch called SpaceTime.  The watch served as a new entry point to the brand, recalling the simplicity of their original 101 and 102 concepts, with an open view to their modern wandering hour carriage design. It was pure Urwerk, and it was also among their most wearable modern watches. The UR100V has matured over the years, with the addition of new materials, colors, and even strap options. It’s a watch that’s proven remarkably adept at expanding its personality in a variety of directions, from the Mayan style ‘Time and Culture’ to the other-worldly P.02 done with Collective Horology. At its core, though, the UR100 is a simple concept, and the latest addition to the collection leans into that simplicity.  The newest UR100V, dubbed the Magic T, gets a monochromatic treatment, presented in full bead blasted titanium from the case to the bracelet. The 3 dimensional dial adheres to the theme as well, with only sparse use of colors to aid in the legibility of telling the time (did I mention that this thing tells the time?). The Magic T is a distillation of the UR100 concept, a near bookend to the original SpaceTime, and an overall cleaner representation of the concept, which at its core, remains unchanged. Time is read via the hand rotating along the minute track at the bottom of the dial (if it can be called that?). The hand itself is attached to one of three hour carriages which house the rotating hou...

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Vero Launches the Meridian, a Casual Weekend Watch with a Manually Wound Movement Worn & Wound
May 4, 2023

Vero Launches the Meridian, a Casual Weekend Watch with a Manually Wound Movement

One of the big hits of the recently completed Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco came from Vero, a brand we’ve been covering for years. The transformation that Vero has made as a company doesn’t get enough coverage. Longtime readers might remember the time we took a look at how Vero was manufacturing watches at their Oregon headquarters, but since that time, the brand has changed their strategy and found their groove with an entirely new aesthetic. In 2021, with the launch of the Open Water diver, Vero made a hard pivot toward outsourcing their manufacturing to trusted Swiss partners, and refocusing the brand on customer service (they now offer a ten year warranty) and shifting the design language into something a little bolder and more colorful. The Open Water and Workhorse Chrono have proven to be durable hits on the microbrand scene, each spawning multiple new references since they made their debuts, and now they’re joined by the Meridian, a handsome manually wound piece that is a completely Vero take on the classic field watch.    Vero characterizes the Meridian as a “weekend watch,” which is borne out in the casual color schemes of the two models that recently launched the collection. First up is the Rambler, a bright blue dial with a red and white outer track, and easy to read black Arabic numerals at each hour. We also have the Rally, which is something of an inversion of the Rambler with its cream colored dial and accents in the perimeter in blue and r...

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Czapek & The Collective Hit the Beach With New P.04 Lanikai Collab Worn & Wound
Czapek & Apr 18, 2023

Czapek & The Collective Hit the Beach With New P.04 Lanikai Collab

The Collective has announced their latest Portfolio series watch done in collaboration with Czapek, and it’s just in time to capture some major summer vibes. The watch, which is called the P.04 Lanikai, takes inspiration from Hawaii’s unique beaches with a conceptual dial that captures their vibrant colors and textures. It’s a dial you can almost hear and feel, taking full advantage of the given real estate by forgoing even hour markers to maximize the feeling of connection with the source of inspiration. The concept is built within Czapek’s Antarctique 40.5mm steel case with integrated bracelet, and as fun as the dial is, it’s all business around back.  The watch is officially the Antarctique P.04 Lanikai for Collective, and the brand claims that three years of design, development and prototyping went into bringing it to life. Much of that revolves around the novel enamel dial which evokes those soft wave patterns of a sandy beach. The dial work was done by the artisans at Donzé Cadrans, who had to develop a process to create the unique scene in enamel. Their work begins with a concave blank, which creates the sense of depth to the dial even in its finished form. Next, the texture is stamped from a hand-engraved mold before the enamel itself is layered and fired. Enamel is notoriously tricky to get right, and the uneven depth at play here didn’t exactly help the situation, but there’s no arguing with the end result. All of that work is apparent at a glance...

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Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Steel Apr 18, 2023

Everyday Lookbook: Introducing The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Steel

The Radiomir Quaranta Steel collection brings a casual touch to one of Officine Panerai’s most classic formats. The collection is a modern interpretation of their first-ever watch, bringing the look of the legendary divers of the 1940s to contemporary, enthusiast-friendly proportions. Pared down yet commanding in presence, the Radiomir Quaranta features Panerai’s iconic details and precision reinvented in a stylish, everyday package. The new Radiomir Quaranta Steel collection is available in multiple versions, with three variants featured here: a white dial with beige Super-LumiNova® and brown strap (PAM01292), a blue dial with white Super LumiNova® and dark blue strap (PAM01293), and a dark anthracite dial with beige Super-LuminNova® and black strap (PAM01294). And starting today, Panerai has added a 4th exclusive model, a green dial and brown strap combination (PAM01386), which is an E-commerce exclusive limited to 500 pieces. Now there’s a look for everyone with colorways that perfectly complement your mood, environment, and attire. Technical details include the P.900 caliber a 4.2mm thick next-generation automatic movement, the first of its size from Panerai to combine the date, three days of power reserve, and water-resistance to 50 meters. It’s clear that this is a package geared for everyday styling and wear. The post Everyday Lookbook: Introducing The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Steel appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Norqain unveil 5 new Independence watches in honour of 5 years of independence Time+Tide
Norqain unveil 5 new Independence Apr 14, 2023

Norqain unveil 5 new Independence watches in honour of 5 years of independence

Norqain is celebrating their 5th anniversary, and 5 years of their brand-debuting Independence collection Three have solid coloured dials (green, brown, and MOP), two are skeletons All COSC-certified, and each feature their new bracelet with on-the-fly micro-adjustment At this very moment Norqain, the press, and their partners are rocking out in Zermatt, Switzerland for the … ContinuedThe post Norqain unveil 5 new Independence watches in honour of 5 years of independence appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Tudor Opens the Doors of its New Manufacture and We Got to Step Inside Worn & Wound
Tudor Opens Apr 13, 2023

Tudor Opens the Doors of its New Manufacture and We Got to Step Inside

Tudor’s recent road is a case study on how to properly revive, or reintroduce a brand to the world. Just in the last 10ish years, we’ve watched them go from a vintage fascination but a contemporary obscurity to one of the leading modern Swiss watch brands. A brand that went from unavailable in the US, to globally reinvigorating and dominating the $3-5k price point. And now, in 2023, they’ve marked another milestone, the opening of their new assembling and testing facility in Le Locle. A massive structure, it houses in a split building with entrances on either side, Tudor and the movement manufacturer they created, Kenissi. Standing on 330, 30-meter tall concrete pillars to reach sturdy bedrock below, the building is 150-meters long, 30-meters high, and consists of 8,050 cubic meters of concrete and 960 tons of metal framing. State of the art in many ways, the project took five years from start to finish, including three for construction, with some transitions and new operations finishing in April of 2023. Airey, with large, automatically tinting glass windows and an intentionally industrial interior veneer, the structure spoke to mid-century architecture, if completed and outfitted with the newest technologies one can expect in a watch-making facility. In many ways, the building suits the products that Tudor currently makes, watches with vintage aesthetic cues, but firmly up-to-date construction. Watches that despite certainly qualifying as luxury timepieces, avoid t...

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Farer Adds a Trio of New 36mm GMTs to the Lander Family Worn & Wound
Farer Adds Apr 10, 2023

Farer Adds a Trio of New 36mm GMTs to the Lander Family

If you’ve been interested in Farer’s Lander GMT (which they tell us is their most popular watch…ever) but felt it was just a bit too big, you’ll want to check out the brand’s latest release. The new 36mm GMT collection takes the Lander aesthetic and shrinks it, making for some of the most compact automatic GMTs on the market. It was only a few months ago that the Lorca GMT had us wondering why there weren’t more smaller GMT equipped watches on the market, and now we have a sudden influx. It’s a good time to be a GMT fan, and now there are a selection of colorful options from across the pond.  The premise here is fairly simple. These new watches share the same basic design as the Lander, with a trio of distinct colorways. Unlike most Farer releases, which frequently have dramatic differences in hand-sets, hour markers, and dial textures within a single collection, these three watches are all very much “Landers” with the same numeral and hand design.  The three colors include the much admired sea green, seen in what Farer is calling the Lander IV, or the Lander Classic, This watch has the same sunburst blue/green color that caught the attention of many watch enthusiasts in Farer’s early days, and set a tone for what to expect in terms of creative color combinations. The sea green dial is offset with a bright red GMT hand and an orange seconds hand, along with a white outer minute track.  The next color in the new collection is Sea Coast, with a dial th...

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A Picture of Good Stealth: Luminox Unveils the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic Worn & Wound
Luminox Apr 6, 2023

A Picture of Good Stealth: Luminox Unveils the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic

When it comes to military watches, my mind draws a bold red line between two distinct types. First, there’s the batch that originates from the vintage kin. You know, the Dirty Dozen field watch, the stoic flieger, and of course the quintessential stainless steel diver. Then there’s the modern and robust digital watch equipped with the innovative case material and a slew of multi-functions that you’d need more than two hands to count. But the happy medium between the two has always been within Luminox, a brand that has fostered and maintained a partnership with the U.S. Navy SEALs for three decades and counting. The latest addition to the Navy SEAL Luminox collection blends together a new case material and their patented Luminox Light Technology, while still keeping the spirit of analog time – it’s called the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic inspired by the Frogmen’s grind, grit, and durability. The Master Carbon SEAL Automatic utilizes a lightweight and rugged case made out of CARBONOX+. This forward-looking material boasts ultra-strong and weatherproof properties that in weight, equates to three times lighter than titanium. The unique feature that comes along with the “+” in the CARBONOX+ name is its stealthy gray tint which also displays the fingerprint-esque carbon fiber pattern that is individual to each watch. Except with the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic, the carbon fiber execution is much more subtle, displaying less of the white swirls we’ve seen in ot...

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Grand Seiko Adds Five New Non-Limited Ever-Brilliant Steel Options to the Heritage Collection Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Adds Five New Non-Limited Apr 4, 2023

Grand Seiko Adds Five New Non-Limited Ever-Brilliant Steel Options to the Heritage Collection

Grand Seiko had several noisy releases at Watches & Wonders this year, the Tentagraph chief among them. But there was a quiet drop in Geneva this year that might be of even more interest to some Grand Seiko collectors and enthusiasts, and is almost certainly a window into what the brand is planning for the future. Grand Seiko has released a total of five watches in their Heritage Collection that effectively serve as upgrades to existing models in, but are now available in Ever-Brilliant Steel. This marks only the second time the brand has used Ever-Brilliant Steel in non-limited references, following up on last year’s SLGH013, which we covered here. A total of three GMTs and two time and date models have just been introduced in Grand Seiko’s most iconic case shape using the proprietary alloy, and they’re at once totally familiar and offer something new for the most dedicated Grand Seiko collectors.  Before we break down the watches, a quick review of the Ever-Brilliant Steel material is in order. Aesthetically, Ever-Brilliant Steel distinguishes itself from standard steel with its bright white color. It’s tough to capture in photos, but in person it has a luster that makes it look and feel like something approaching a precious metal. It’s also significantly more corrosion resistant than standard steel, promoting increased longevity, which Grand Seiko reminds us is a key component of their watchmaking philosophy. The 44GS case, with its wide facets and unique geo...

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TAG Heuer Reinvents an Icon with the Carrera Chronograph 39mm “Glassbox” Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Reinvents Mar 29, 2023

TAG Heuer Reinvents an Icon with the Carrera Chronograph 39mm “Glassbox”

Does the TAG Heuer Carrera really need an introduction? Well, I suppose to be thorough. One of the iconic motorsport chronographs, it was launched in 1963, deftly combining the sleekness and excitement of the sport that inspired it. While over the decades there have been many variations and evolutions to the Carrera, the original 2447 from 1963 has always served as a source for the brand to go back to when reinvigorating the line. This year is the 60th anniversary of the Carrera, which they already began celebrating back in January with the release of a model that stayed very close to that original reference, though with general modern updates. While that model goes literally back to the Carreras roots, the newly launched Carrera 39mm “glassbox” mixes modern and vintage details into one of the most attractive packages from TAG in some time. There are three models to the collection, two 39mm three-register chronos, and a 42mm chrono-tourbillon. Focusing on the former, the fact that these non-revival, non-limited Carreras are at 39mm is the first aspect to celebrate. This size, while not small by today’s standards nor the same as the original (it was 36mm), is small for TAG, whose modern chronographs are generally 41 – 45mm. I suspect, however, there is a reason for this. As the title “glassbox” literally states, these Carrera’s have large domed sapphire crystals. Like, really large. While it is said they are inspired by the domed Hesalite crystals of 70s Carre...

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Watches & Wonders: Day 2 Recap Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer who have introduced new Mar 28, 2023

Watches & Wonders: Day 2 Recap

Day 2 of Watches & Wonders is history, and the Worn & Wound team is back to recap the day’s events once again. Today saw more meetings, more video shoots, and more frantically checking our calendars to make sure we don’t miss a key appointment. There were also plenty of surprises, from brands that we have known and loved for years, and also some that we all want to learn more about. Check our reactions to day 2 below. Zach Kazan Watches and Wonders Day 2 started, thankfully, after a good night’s sleep. To this point, the effects of jetlag have been mostly pretty minimal, and waking up early, having a real breakfast, and starting the day on Swiss time in mind and body was certainly a positive development. Some people come to these shows, put in a full day of work, and party hard well into the evening, and frankly I’m not sure how those people survive the week while meeting deadlines.  I’ve learned that a nice thing that happens at an event like this is that a brand will inevitably surprise you, either with the watches they’re exhibiting, the presentation, or both. That happened today with TAG Heuer, who have introduced new Carreras that are more appealing than just about chronograph I’ve seen them release in the last three or four years. And that’s a lot of chronographs. Zach Weiss will have more on these tomorrow, but they’re an early favorite of the show for me. In person, they were so much stronger than I expected based on the brand supplied images. No...

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IWC Introduces the Ingenieur Automatic 40 SJX Watches
IWC Introduces Mar 27, 2023

IWC Introduces the Ingenieur Automatic 40

After years in the doldrums – and several unsuccessful reboots – the Ingenieur has been given a much-needed refresh inside and out. The IWC Ingenieur 40 emulates many of the best characteristics of the original Ingenieur SL from 1976 that was famously designed by Gérald Genta, but adds a proprietary automatic movement into the mix. Initial Thoughts While there was nothing wrong with the outgoing Ingenieur ref. IW3570, it was uninspired and lacked the charisma found in the original 1976 designs. Unsurprisingly, it failed to resonate with buyers who increasingly favoured sports watches with integrated bracelets. The ref. IW328903 features an aqua dial and a bracelet with polished center links The resulting surge in demand for integrated-bracelet sports watches was a trend that IWC missed out on since the last Ingenieur with an integrated bracelet was the ref. IW3239 discontinued in 2017. With everyone else launching an integrated-bracelet sports watch, it seemed inevitable that IWC would eventually refresh the Ingenieur and bring back the original design. In this context, the launch of the Ingenieur 40 is welcome, even if it does feel slightly anti-climactic.  The Ingenieur ref. IW328902 in steel with a silver-plated dial The new Ingenieur is essentially a blend of the 1976 original and the more recent integrated-bracelet models. The design appears thoughtful. For example, the bezel with five notches from the original returns, but with a twist (no pun intended). Whi...

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Doxa’s New Sub 200 C-Graph II is Smaller, Slimmer & Ready for Your Next Cave Dive (Or Not) Worn & Wound
Doxa s New Sub 200 Mar 23, 2023

Doxa’s New Sub 200 C-Graph II is Smaller, Slimmer & Ready for Your Next Cave Dive (Or Not)

When I hear the words “Doxa Sub,” it’s hard for me to not start conjuring images in the ol’ noggin of that wide cushion, pebble-like steel case, the orange accented no-deco table splitting bezel duty with an elapsed time display, and the ever-so whimsical dial. The Sub 300 is a damn near perfect watch, in my humble opinion. But lately (over the course of two years), Doxa has given their flagship dive watch some company within their catalog by way of a couple releases that, at glance, might not resemble the Doxa you and I are used to. The brand with a storied history in the sport of diving and oceanic exploration has been doing some exploring of their own, but into different case design waters. I’m referring to their contemporary divers that use more of a conventional round case shape like the Sub 200 and the Sub 200 C-Graph. Recently, Doxa released the second coming of their Sub 200 chronograph with the Sub 200 C-Graph II. There are notable differences with the newcomer that include several models within the collection now sporting a steel bezel (as a traditional Doxa should have), a new dial finish, and smaller case proportions that amount to a more wearable, everyday diver. When the Doxa Sub 200 C-Graph was introduced in 2020, it reintroduced a chronograph into their expansive regular production diver collection. It was (and still is) a three-register chronograph that attempted to keep some of the vintage charm with its faux-patina markers. In terms of its case...

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[Hands-On] The Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden We’re Mar 20, 2023

[Hands-On] The Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden

We’re not yet at the stage that the BR05 is seen as THE Bell & Ross-there’s still a long way to go before it could dethrone the classic square silhouette of the BR01 and BR03 models-but it feels like it has grown up enough to be seen as not just another brand jumping on the integrated bracelet sport watch bandwagon. It’s not even four years since the first of the BR05 variants were unveiled, and during that time we have seen three-handers, chronographs and GMTs. Stainless steel watches have seen bead-blasting and ‘Artline’ finishing. There have been rose gold and two-tone cases. Dials have come in black, white, copper, green, and blue. And lets not forget the Kenissi powered BR-X5 which has also evolved from the same case. As I browse the BR05 catalogue, both past and present, I’m struck by two thoughts. Firstly, there have been a LOT of different watches in this line. It’s not surprising that a brand should choose to repeat and rework a flagship model, but even allowing for quite a number of limited editions, that’s still a lot of releases since the original 2019 debut. This leads to my second thought. Despite always being impressed with the overall aesthetic, case design and finishing, why haven’t I found one that I really like? Finding my own answer to that has required me to attempt to classify what type of watch the BR05 actually is. $6600 [Hands-On] The Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden Case Stainless Stee Movement BR-CAL.322 (Base SW300-1) Dia...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Moser debuts new size, Czapek goes titanium, VIEREN brings Studio 54 vibes Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie … ContinuedThe Mar 17, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Moser debuts new size, Czapek goes titanium, VIEREN brings Studio 54 vibes

TGIF! But before we all get some must needed R&R; this weekend, especially with Watches & Wonders kicking off next week, there have been some interesting watch releases this week ahead of the biggest watch fair in the world – and from three independents no less! Let’s jump right into it. H. Moser & Cie … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Moser debuts new size, Czapek goes titanium, VIEREN brings Studio 54 vibes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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IWC Debuts Customisation for Portugieser Chronograph SJX Watches
IWC Debuts Customisation Mar 15, 2023

IWC Debuts Customisation for Portugieser Chronograph

With luxury brands vying to offer clients individuality in products, customised watches are now fairly common. The trend began at aftermarket providers, but establishment watchmakers are gradually making such offerings available beyond their highest-end clientele. The latest entrant is IWC with its Individualisation Service, a surprisingly straightforward customisation process that’s a first for a mainstream watch brand. Available at just two locations for now, the service allows clients to personalise a Portugieser Chronograph; anyone can walk into either of the IWC stores in Shanghai or Dubai and select a case material, match it with a variety of dials and straps, with the finished watch ready in about three weeks. The caveat: the customised watch costs an CHF1,500 over the retail price of the standard-production model. Initial thoughts Despite the clunky name, IWC’s Individualisation Service is definitely a welcome development since it’s a factory-official customised watch that is relatively accessible in price. Customisation is typically offered to only a brand’s biggest-spending clients, so this democratises the concept to a degree. Granted, it’s being trialed at just two locations, but it will surely be rolled out more widely once its commercial viability is proven. That said, the Individualisation Service has limitations. It allows clients to choose from a range of fixed options, rather than allowing free rein to tweak or redesign the watch. So if you...

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[Hands-On] The Heinrich Taucher 2, Now in GMT Guise Worn & Wound
Mar 7, 2023

[Hands-On] The Heinrich Taucher 2, Now in GMT Guise

Last year, I wrote about the Taucher 2 from Heinrich – a moderately sized dive watch packed with retro touches, even if not all of them were to my taste. Today, I’m looking at the next step in the evolution of the Taucher 2 line. There are a lot of similarities between the two models, but a few obvious changes as well – and not just the addition of a GMT hand. So, how does the Taucher 2 GMT stack up? Heinrich Watches are making this GMT available in three varieties. All are the same in terms of case and bracelet and differ only in the dial, and chapter ring, color. I’ve been spending some time with the ‘safe bet’ black dial as well as the more adventurous blue and yellow combination. These two are also joined by a white dial with a blue and white ‘Pepsi’ colored chapter ring. Each of the two models I’ve looked at not only differs in color scheme but also in texture. The blue dial gets a sunburst pattern, while the black dial is treated to something a little more unusual. The three-dimensional pattern resembles Clous de Paris, but on an enlarged scale, and with a curved pattern that brings to mind the lines of longitude and latitude as they span the globe. Such an impression is no bad thing on a GMT watch. $1500 [Hands-On] The Heinrich Taucher 2, Now in GMT Guise Case Stainless Steel Movement Sellita SW330-2 Elaboré Dial Black, Blue or White Lume BGW9 SuperLuminova Lens Sapphire Strap Stainless steel Water Resistance 200M Dimensions 41x43mm Thickness 14mm...

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Tissot Adds a Blue Panda Dial to the PRX Chronograph Lineup, Plus a Rubber Strap for the PRX Powermatic 80 is Finally Here Worn & Wound
Tissot Adds Mar 2, 2023

Tissot Adds a Blue Panda Dial to the PRX Chronograph Lineup, Plus a Rubber Strap for the PRX Powermatic 80 is Finally Here

Readers, we’re here. Watches & Wonders is later this month, which means we are fully entrenched in new release season. We’ve seen some big news come across our desks since the beginning of the year, but if recent patterns hold, we can expect a flurry of activity from brands that do not participate in the year’s biggest trade show showing off their first round of novelties in the weeks ahead, likely in an attempt to bring eyeballs to their new watches before the world turns its attention once again to what’s happening in those cavernous Palexpo halls. Swatch Group brands are part of the watch world that takes a pass on Watches & Wonders, so we’ve been seeing an uptick in activity recently from group brands in the way of new product announcements. We already covered news of one Tissot new release this week, and now we have another in the PRX family.   The PRX line has quickly become a centerpiece of the larger Tissot catalog. These are integrated bracelet sports watches that are affordably priced, have an attractive 1970s aesthetic, and have surprisingly accomplished finishing when examined in person. The PRX chronograph, in particular, has struck a chord with collectors, and has to this point been released in a handful of attractive, but traditional, colorways, while the three hand variants of the PRX offer slightly more variety.  The new chronograph introduced recently by Tissot is a striking blue panda configuration, with a silver dial and dark blue subdials ...

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Sinn Goes Full Titanium and Bronze with New T50 Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Sinn Goes Full Titanium Feb 23, 2023

Sinn Goes Full Titanium and Bronze with New T50 Dive Watch

Sinn has released a new midsize diver with some big time specs to kick off their 2023 releases with the new T50. This is a watch that may seem familiar at a glance, as a follow up to the popular U50 released in 2020, but there’s plenty new here to set plenty of distance between the two, the biggest of which are the use of new materials, which include titanium and a new Sinn developed alloy called Goldbronze. This is a proprietary material that boasts some unique features in the service of longevity and functionality in true Sinn fashion. It looks pretty good, too.  The T50 arrives in three main configurations, going from full Goldbronze in a limited edition 125, to a mix of titanium and Goldbronze in the GBDR, and finally a fully titanium example that forgoes the use of Goldbronze altogether. All look to share the same mid case design and proportions of the 41mm U50, which is a very good thing (see our review of the U50 here). This rather svelte and wearable package gets a remarkably stout 500 meter depth rating, and with the T50 adds Sinn’s Ar‑Dehumidifying inside the bottom left lug. The dial and bezel present the biggest departure from the U50 design language, departing from the brutal blocky design of the hands and hour markers in favor of a more approachable look that utilizes bar shaped hour markers and a pair of broadsword hands. The look may be more palatable to those who found the U50 a touch too aggressive, however it comes at the expense of a distinctivel...

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