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Rolex Introduces the Cosmograph Daytona “Le Mans” Ref. 126529LN SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Jun 10, 2023

Rolex Introduces the Cosmograph Daytona “Le Mans” Ref. 126529LN

Having surprised everyone with the Perpetual 1908, “Bubbles”, and “Puzzles”, Rolex continues to do the unexpected. Launched to mark the 100th year of the 24 Hours of Le Mans, the Cosmograph Daytona ref. 126529 LN is a new model based on the latest-generation Daytona launched earlier this year. But the Daytona “Le Mans” is not merely a facelifted chronograph but contains the cal. 4132. The new movement swaps out the conventional 12-hour counter at nine for a 24-hour register in a nod to the famous endurance race that Rolex has sponsored for over two decades. But perhaps most pertinent for enthusiasts are sub-dials, which are modelled on the vintage Daytona “Paul Newman”. And while availability for the Daytona “Le Mans” will be limited, at least initially, it is a regular-production model that will be available at retailers and boutiques. Initial thoughts A new Daytona with a new movement is big news not because it’s majorly different – this is still very much a Daytona – but because Rolex rarely introduces new models outside of the annual watch fair in Switzerland. And when it does, the watch tends to be a surprise in more ways than one. The new Daytona is actually new, largely because contains a new calibre, a simple variation of the current Daytona movement, but one that is mechanically different nonetheless. The movement reflects the Rolex approach to engineering that does nothing in half measures. Even though the cal. 4132 inside the Daytona ...

When it comes to Porsche Design’s new Chronograph 718 Spyder RS, you have options Time+Tide
Porsche Design s new Chronograph 718 Jun 10, 2023

When it comes to Porsche Design’s new Chronograph 718 Spyder RS, you have options

As the famous slogan goes, “Porsche…there is no substitute”. A young Tom Cruise knew it after outrunning the bad guy with his father’s 928 in 1983’s Risky Business, and the legend rings true more than ever today. In celebration of the introduction of the new 718 Spyder RS, Porsche Design has made an introduction of … ContinuedThe post When it comes to Porsche Design’s new Chronograph 718 Spyder RS, you have options appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Breguet Type XX and Type 20 move the needle forward while being more faithful to the OGs than ever Time+Tide
Breguet Type XX Jun 9, 2023

The new Breguet Type XX and Type 20 move the needle forward while being more faithful to the OGs than ever

When you think of Breguet watches, the first word that comes to mind is probably guilloché. The maison is widely celebrated for their engine-turned dials, truly decorated by hand in a world where many other brands have moved towards stamping them. But Breguet is by no means one-dimensional. Sure, the brand’s namesake makes you think … ContinuedThe post The new Breguet Type XX and Type 20 move the needle forward while being more faithful to the OGs than ever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Breguet Type XX (and the Type 20!) are Back in a Pair of Vintage Inspired New References Worn & Wound
Breguet Type XX Jun 7, 2023

The Breguet Type XX (and the Type 20!) are Back in a Pair of Vintage Inspired New References

When it comes to pilot chronographs, particularly military inspired pilot chronographs, the Type XX sits at the top of a very large pile of well loved and highly collectible watches. Most often associated with Breguet, the Type XX is analogous to the “Dirty Dozen” W.W.W. field watches produced by a number of manufacturers in the WWII years on a contract basis for the British Ministry of Defense. In the case of the Type XX, it was the French military who contracted watchmakers to create a high spec chronograph. The requirements were specific and rigid: black dials, chrono registers at 3:00 and 9:00, the capability to time events up to 30 minutes, a 38mm case, and a 12 hour bezel among them. Mathey-Tissot and Dodane were among the brands charged with manufacturing these watches along with Breguet. Over the years, the style of this simple pilot’s chronograph has influenced countless other brands and has been straight up copied by many, and along the way it became a staple of the modern Breguet lineup. That is, until the contemporary Type XX was discontinued a few years ago. Now, the Type XX is back in a fairly big way, in two different versions with two different names that I promise are not confusing at all.  Announced yesterday, Breguet has unveiled an all new Type XX (the civilian version) and a Type 20 (the military version). References 2067 and 2057, respectively, both carry aesthetic elements from classic versions of the watch, but have some subtle (and also some...

A Preview of the Upcoming Sotheby’s Important Watches Auction, Including Paul Newman Racing Gear, and Some Gorgeous Breguets Worn & Wound
Breguet s Jun 7, 2023

A Preview of the Upcoming Sotheby’s Important Watches Auction, Including Paul Newman Racing Gear, and Some Gorgeous Breguets

The Sotheby’s Important Watches sale is set to take place on June 9 in New York. A total of 135 lots are set to go under the hammer, with an interesting mix of vintage and modern watches among them. As with any major auction, there are too many great lots to do all of them proper justice, but our editorial team studied the catalog and a handful of watches (and other items) jumped out at us. From unique Paul Newman racing ephemera, to cool clocks and a whole bunch of Breguet, there’s something here for any watch enthusiast (or movie fan) to get excited about. Here are some of the highlights, chosen by Zach Kazan, Blake Buettner, and Zach Weiss. Zach Kazan Lots 28 and 29: Paul Newman Racing Ephemera  While the centerpiece of the upcoming Important Watches sale at Sotheby’s is a Daytona owned by Paul Newman, the lots that make this auction truly unique and special are Newman related, but not actually watches at all. After all, we’ve done the Paul Newman Daytona thing. But what we haven’t done, at least not in a watch collecting milieu, a racing suit. Along with a truly superlative selection of watches, Sotheby’s has some great Paul Newman racing ephemera that goes a long way toward reminding us that the watch that has become synonymous with his name wasn’t a prop, or part of a costume. He wore it because it was a watch for race car drivers, and Paul Newman was a race car driver.  Lot 49 is a cream colored racing jumpsuit worn by Newman on at least two occasion...

Hands On: Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2057 and 2067 SJX Watches
Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2057 Jun 6, 2023

Hands On: Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2057 and 2067

Following the launch of a revamped flagship perpetual calendar, Breguet now reboots its famous pilot’s chronograph with the Type XX Chronographe 2057 and 2067. Descended from the military-issue watches introduced in the 1950s, the new Type XX makes its debut with a pair of watches – one military inspired and the other civilian – that are identical on a fundamental level but distinctly different in look and feel. Significant enhancements have been introduced with the latest-generation Type XX, including more sophisticated case finishing, but most notable is the newly-developed flyback chronograph movement with an extended power reserve and high-frequency, 5 Hz escapement. (The new models are referred to as Type XX, as are vintage pilot’s chronographs sold to the civilian market. Vintage military-issue chronographs are known as Type 20, as is historical practice.) The ref. 2067 modelled on the civilian Type XX of the 1960s Initial thoughts After introducing the Type XX and Type XXI, Breguet has returned back to the Type XX model name with a new watch that retains many of the distinctive design elements that define the Type XX, while incorporating significant improvements to the design, details, and of course movement. At 42 mm, the new Type XX is a large watch, but sized correctly for a pilot’s chronograph. The lugs are also relatively short so the watch sits well on the wrist. And enthusiasts will appreciate the fact that the case size corresponds to the movement....

Double the Miffy: De Rijke & Co. and Revolution Team Up for a Special Limited Edition Version of the Miffy Moonphase Worn & Wound
De Rijke & Co Jun 6, 2023

Double the Miffy: De Rijke & Co. and Revolution Team Up for a Special Limited Edition Version of the Miffy Moonphase

The De Rijke & Co. “Miffy” watches have unexpectedly launched the Dutch brand to a level of acclaim over the last few years that would have been hard for most people to predict. That isn’t because the watches they make aren’t worthy (we’ve been following them closely since the excellent Amalfi 1S, reviewed here in the pre-Miffy days), but because the Miffy character is quintessentially Dutch, and not an internationally known and obvious subject for a character watch. And also because, well, who would have thought that the “elegant driver’s watch” format would lend itself so well to a character at all? There’s an obvious sense of whimsy here, a youthful playfulness combined with De Rijke’s eye for great design that just really works. And the latest Miffy watch is perhaps the most impressive yet: a limited edition run made in collaboration with Revolution, featuring a unique perspective on De Rijke’s Miffy moonphase execution.  The previous Miffy watches (which we wrote about here and here) were essentially opportunities for De Rijke to experiment with bold colors and work in an aesthetic defined by the illustrations of Miffy creator Dick Bruna. The moonphase disc captures Miffy riding a crescent moon, surrounded by stars, with luminescent material applied to the nighttime scene. It’s one of the largest moonphase indicators we know of in a wristwatch, with the width of the disc itself coming in at 20mm. The artwork takes advantage of the large size ...

Hands On: Cartier Privé Tank Normale SJX Watches
Cartier Privé Tank Normale Since Jun 4, 2023

Hands On: Cartier Privé Tank Normale

Since its introduction in 2018 with the Tank Cintrée, Cartier Privé has emerged as a favourite of enthusiasts because it delves into the brand’s rich history by reimagining iconic designs. That approach is exemplified in the latest addition to the collection, the Privé Tank Normale. Based on the 1917 original designed by Louis Cartier, the latest incarnation of the Tank Normale matches historical style with a touch of modernity. Initial thoughts Even amongst Cartier’s many famous case designs, the Tank stands out as especially iconic. The very first Tank was the Normale so it was only a matter of time before Cartier revived the original Normale, which had been out of production for some years. The revived Tank Normale was clearly conceived with attention to detail. It looks much like the vintage original, but with a gently modernised dial as well as the heft and refinement of a modern timepiece. One especially pleasing detail that speaks to its creators’ eye for detail is the bevelled sapphire crystal that mimics the glass of the vintage original. A standout feature of the Tank Normale is the bracelet, which is optional and expensive but looks good. Constructed with brick-like links, the bracelet evoke watches from the 1920s. The vintage aesthetic fits the Tank Normale perfectly, but the build quality is solidly modern. This is the first bracelet Cartier has offered for its high-end men’s watches in some time, and hopefully it won’t be the last. As for the cho...

WHAT IF… Universal Genève was revived? Time+Tide
Universal Genève Jun 4, 2023

WHAT IF… Universal Genève was revived?

Universal Genève’s story is one of the highest of highs and lowest of lows. The brand experienced fruitful periods for much of its lifetime, only to become a victim of several unsuccessful post-quartz crisis revivals. Multiple star athletes, musical icons and toppled dictators all sported Universal Genève watches in some capacity, a few becoming heroes … ContinuedThe post WHAT IF… Universal Genève was revived? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

eBay Finds: The Datron, Decimal, Dynamic & More Worn & Wound
Omega Geneve Dynamic Starting Jun 1, 2023

eBay Finds: The Datron, Decimal, Dynamic & More

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Omega Geneve Dynamic Starting this week off with a really neat 1960’s vintage Omega Geneve Dynamic. I mean, does it get any retro-cooler than this oval stunner with the blue bullseye dial?? The unique oval steel case is in excellent condition with the original radial brushed finish still intact. The dial is what makes this one stand out though, with the silver base and bold blue ring and black/white thin hash lines. Really a wild look. This example looks all-original, including the original leather rally strap with Omega signed buckle! Seller states the watch runs well, but no movement picture. View auction here. Mido Multifort Next up we have this beautiful little Mido Multifort Super Automatic military style piece. The steel case looks good, and it has a nice wide bezel. The seller doesn’t give the width of the case, but it’s definitely going to be on the smaller side. The black dial with luminous Arabic numeral hour markers is gorgeous, with a great patina’d look, and a classic sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock. The crown is the correct, original one, oversized and domed, unique to Mido. Seller states the watch runs, but again no movement picture. Really fun military style wa...

VIDEO: Hublot’s colourful Spirit of Big Bang 32 and Yellow Magic Time+Tide
Hublot s colourful Spirit Jun 1, 2023

VIDEO: Hublot’s colourful Spirit of Big Bang 32 and Yellow Magic

Hublot’s bold designs aren’t exactly known for their versatility, but I think a lot of people could be surprised by just how much their style is actually capable of achieving. The Spirit of Big Bang isn’t just a catchy title for Hublot’s tonneau-shaped case design, but rather an example of how the industrial feel and … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Hublot’s colourful Spirit of Big Bang 32 and Yellow Magic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre focuses on refinement of their elegant collection for Watches & Wonders 2023 Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre focuses May 30, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre focuses on refinement of their elegant collection for Watches & Wonders 2023

The Watches & Wonders stand of Jaeger-LeCoultre is always one of the most attractive exhibitions, as the watchmaker of watchmakers know exactly how to best use their horological status. This year, the Stellar Odyssey collection has made way for a focus on harmony and beauty, with Jaeger-LeCoultre returning to the Reverso Tribute as their basis … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre focuses on refinement of their elegant collection for Watches & Wonders 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sarpaneva Introduces the Lunations Black Ruthenium SJX Watches
Sarpaneva May 30, 2023

Sarpaneva Introduces the Lunations Black Ruthenium

Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva has revealed the newest iteration of his trademark complication, the Lunations Black Ruthenium. Equipped with his proprietary moon phase movement, the Lunations moon phase is so accurate it will accumulate a mere one-day discrepancy after 14,000 years. Limited to just ten pieces, this is a variant of a model first introduced a dozen years ago, but remains the brand’s most complex wristwatch. Initial thoughts The Lunations has all of the Sarpaneva design elements, including the moon “face”, open-worked dial (which in this case is actually the movement), laser engraved decoration as well as hand finishing, so it resembles many of the brand’s other watches. But the Lunations is actually one of the most complex watches devised by Sarpaneva. The Lunations is unusual in combining both the brand’s recognisable design with an original movement, one developed with the help of Andreas Strehler, whereas most of Sarpaneva’s other watches are powered by simpler, outsourced movements.  Constructed in a novel manner with a two-disc moon phase display that’s so large it’s almost the diameter of the movement, the calibre inside is both interesting and complex. However, a moon phase complication is usually simple – and inexpensive – in most other watches. Consequently, the Lunations feels pricey with its €39,500 price tag, particularly so considering that Sarpaneva’s other moon phase models powered by outsourced movements cost hal...

Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date Deployant
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde May 29, 2023

Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date

‘Tis the year for the retrograde display here at Vacheron Constantin. The grand dame of watchmaking has released no fewer than three models with the mechanism at Watches & Wonders 2023. The first model is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface, the most complicated of the lot. The next one is the Patrimony Retrograde Day-DateRead More

The Last Emperor’s Patek Philippe: History in the Making Revolution
Patek Philippe History May 29, 2023

The Last Emperor’s Patek Philippe: History in the Making

Step into history and witness the remarkable journey of Puyi’s wristwatch, an artifact that carries the weight of a bygone era. This iconic timepiece, belonging to the legendary emperor, will soon go under the hammer at Phillips auctioneers, and its story is truly captivating. Georgy Permyakov, Puyi’s Russian translator, was entrusted with preserving the memories […]

FAST X: The watches of the Fast & Furious cast Time+Tide
May 28, 2023

FAST X: The watches of the Fast & Furious cast

The Fast & Furious films are a fun, perhaps, guilty pleasure for millions. The franchise is essentially a racing soap opera packed with fight scenes and plot-lines spiked with twist, turns and resurrections. I could probably put together a more in-depth intro here. But time is ticking. With such a large cast throughout the years, … ContinuedThe post FAST X: The watches of the Fast & Furious cast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Franck Muller Grand Central Tourbillon Flash brings a sporty attitude to a complex movement Time+Tide
Franck Muller May 26, 2023

The Franck Muller Grand Central Tourbillon Flash brings a sporty attitude to a complex movement

It can sometimes be difficult to know what to make of Franck Muller. Whether it’s because of the brand’s relative youth or general whimsical approach to design, it seems that a lot of collectors don’t take them particularly seriously. However, Franck Muller is built on a bedrock of technical excellence and that has earned them … ContinuedThe post The Franck Muller Grand Central Tourbillon Flash brings a sporty attitude to a complex movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Kurono Tokyo Closes Out the Calendrier I Series with the Maroon Dialed “Azuki” Anniversary Edition Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo Closes Out May 25, 2023

Kurono Tokyo Closes Out the Calendrier I Series with the Maroon Dialed “Azuki” Anniversary Edition

The latest from Kurono Tokyo is a new version of their Calendrier Type I, a reference that was a finalist in the 2022 GPHG awards. A triple calendar is an old school complication, so it makes sense for a brand like Kurono to experiment on this platform, with their design language so deeply rooted in Art Deco principles and mid 20th century ideas around size and style. The new Calendrier is a Kurono anniversary model, thus it will be sold as a “time limited” edition, meaning prospective owners will have specific windows during which they can make a purchase, and Kurono will fill every order placed in these windows. Kurono has also announced that this will be the final version of the Calendrier Type I, so if this is a reference you’ve been hunting, we’re approaching your last chance to snag one directly from the brand.  Kurono has dubbed this model the Anniversary Calendrier “Azuki,” a name derived from the maroon color of the dial. Azuki means “red bean” in Japanese, and in Japan is a color commonly associated with cars. Maroon was once a common standard vehicle color, so this watch is subtly auto inspired and a throwback in more ways than one.  According to the brand, achieving this particular tone of maroon was a significant challenge. To get the color right, Kurono used phosphor-bronze rather than the typical brass for the dial material, which allows them to get the proper shade of red during the finishing process. Kurono notes that phosphor-bronze is m...

VIDEO: Andrew and Fabrizio break down the new Bulgari Octo Roma and the first-ever Octo Roma chronographs Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Roma May 23, 2023

VIDEO: Andrew and Fabrizio break down the new Bulgari Octo Roma and the first-ever Octo Roma chronographs

The Roman Jeweler of Time is home to many wonderful creations, but, due to the success and milestone records broken within the collection, much of the Bulgari conversation these days revolves around the Octo Finissimo. This year, Bulgari decided they were not having that. It was time to give the OG Octo Roma its due … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Andrew and Fabrizio break down the new Bulgari Octo Roma and the first-ever Octo Roma chronographs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Resurgence SJX Watches
May 22, 2023

J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Resurgence

Having made a name for himself as a guillocheur, Joshua Shapiro has taken things a step further with the launch of the Resurgence, the most thoroughly American-made wristwatch since 1969. The Resurgence offers several features that are unique within the increasingly crowded field of high-end independent watchmaking. It is a customisable product that offers an almost unlimited number of dial, case, and movement combinations; it’s possible that no two watches will be alike. Almost every aspect of the watch, from the elaborate guilloche dial, engine-turned case, and customisable in-house movement, is surprisingly interesting and original. Initial Thoughts I first met Joshua in 2019 after the launch of the Infinity Series, and even then he was keen to discuss his vision for creating an in-house American-made movement that would live up to the quality of his guilloche work. But I must admit the Resurgence has exceeded my expectations, especially in terms of finishing. As a guilloche specialist, Joshua does not disappoint with the multi-part guilloche dial. Its construction reminds me of the dial found in the Roger W. Smith GREAT Britain, a one-off watch made in 2015 for the British government’s tourism campaign of the same name. But while the construction is similar, the Resurgence dial possesses its own aesthetic that steps out from the shadow of Swiss or British-style guilloche. At US$85,000 in gold and US$70,000 in steel, the Resurgence is priced at the upper end of the ...

Highlights: Notable Independents at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe timepieces May 22, 2023

Highlights: Notable Independents at Christie’s Hong Kong

Having covered the extraordinary Patek Philippe timepieces and the single-owner “Ultimate Collection” in Christie’s upcoming Important Watches auction in Hong Kong, we now shift gears and look at the sales’s line-up of independent watchmaking. The independents in the sale are of course led by big names like Richard Mille and F.P. Journe – amongst the latter’s offerings in the sale is the rare Tourbillon Souverain in the colours of the Chinese flag. But alongside these six- and seven-figure watches (in U.S. dollar terms), are some underrated watches that might be value buys, notably the Ulysse Nardin Freak Lab. And then there’s the simply whimsical with the Konstantin Chaykin Clown II. Important Watches (lots 2201-2360) begins at 1:00 pm on May 26 – the catalogue is available here. The “China 2010” dial Lot 2215: Ulysse Nardin Freak Lab While Ulysse Nardin is not an independent watchmaker in the strictest sense of the term, it isn’t owned by a luxury group. And the Freak is still an avant-garde watch over two decades after its introduction, a watch so exotic it seems to have emerged from mind of a talented independent watchmaker. Which is true: it was conceived by Carole Forestier then refined and perfected by Ludwig Oechslin. So the Freak certainly makes the cut in this independents feature. And this particular Freak is incorporates some notable innovations. Historically a platform for movement-technology experimentation, the Freak evolved into the F...