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Revolution
Wei and Constant have a sit-down conversation on our newest limited edition, the Laurent Ferrier X Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia. Join us as we go into the stories of Laurent Ferrier, the man himself, and the amazing process that created this beautiful timepiece. Our Laurent Ferrier X Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia is limited to just 15 […]
Worn & Wound
The Series 8 is Citizen’s take on the integrated bracelet sport watch genre that was introduced into the premium end of the brand’s catalog under the The Citizen banner, sporting the brand’s flagship movement developed in partnership with La Joux-Perret. It’s a watch we were quite fond of in our hands-on. This year, the Series 8 is taking a step in a new direction with the addition of this 880 GMT collection using the 9054 caliber, and some slightly familiar color schemes. This is a watch that ticks all meta boxes for the moment, and while it makes a lot of practical sense, has us wondering how it will fit into the broader Series 8 project in the long term. Integrated sports watches and so-called ‘flyer’ or ‘traveler’ GMT complications are certainly having their moment this year, which is great for consumers looking for more options at a wide range of price points. Combining the two seems only natural, however the landscape of integrated cases housing GMT movements is relatively sparse. Citizen brings the two together in this Series 8 880 GMT collection making use of the 9054 automatic caliber, which offers that ‘flyer’ functionality, and offers a higher magnetic resistance than the 9075 upon which it is based. The movement offers plenty of practical features, though will be pushing the price ceiling of watches using other variants. But a watch is more than a movement. There’s a full steel case and integrated bracelet here, which should justify the ...
SJX Watches
While historically a movement and components supplier, Schwarz Etienne has produced timepieces under its own name for some years now. Some of its watches feature original designs with a touch of traditional watchmaking, an example being the recent collaboration with independent watchmaker Voutilainen. Now, it is continuing the collaborative design approach in its latest release, the Geometry. Unveiled as a limited edition in two colourways, this collection showcases a dial penned by Eric Giroud, the designer best known for his work for contemporary brands like MB&F;. Described as “deconstructed”, his dial design takes inspiration from the branch of mathematics that’s all about precise alignment and arrangement of lines to form shapes. Initial thoughts In recent years, a growing number of watch brands, including Louis Erard and Bulgari, have embraced geometric dial designs to produce some standouts in their collections. As evident in its latest creation, Schwarz Etienne also aligns with this trend. What sets the Geometry apart is the combination of traditional decoration with modernist style in its contrasting utilisation of fluted lines and clous de Paris patterns. Between the two iterations, the silver dial is particularly captivating. The subtle contrast between the textures and colours are simultaneously cohesive and balanced, creating something pleasing and elegant out of what could be a very busy dial. With a price tag of US$23,490, the Geometry is expensive i...
WatchAdvice
The Tudor Black Bay GMT was a hit when released in 2018 giving people a much more affordable alternative to it’s older and wiser cousin, the Rolex GMT BLRO, otherwise known as “The Pepsi”. And being more attainable and a great value proposition, I decided it was time to add a GMT to the collection. Why I Bought It I had never owned a GMTGreat Rolex alternativeClassic styled GMT & similar to my Black Bay The Ownership Reality Wears larger than a 41mm watch due to it’s 14mm thickness and slab sidesNo micro adjust or extendable links for on the fly adjustment Aluminium bezel insert more prone to scratches than ceramic Overall rating: 8.5 /10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 8/10 A few months ago, Tudor released a new variant of the Tudor Black Bay GMT with a white dial, which you can read about here, but personally, I didn’t love the white dial on this watch. The black dial “Pepsi” configuration, The OG looks better in my opinion, which made me think why, and then made me think – maybe I should write about it in this next Owners Perspective article. The original and the best – Tudor Black Bay GMT Having never owned a GMT, and les face it, over 2020 and 2021, I’ve not needed one as I’ve not really gone anywhere thanks to COVID. But with the world opening up again early last year, and with a few family holidays planned combined with an itch for a new watch, I decided to take the plunge and get a Tudor Black Bay GMT. W...
Quill & Pad
The Watches TV founder Marc-André Deschoux explains how the personal Type 2 E-Crown of Ressence's founder, Benoît Mintiens, works in this video.
Time+Tide
Patek Philippe collector Ali Rezaei has filed a lawsuit against Bay Area jeweller Shreve & Co. Rezaei alleges he was promised an allocation of a US$109K Patek Phillipe 5980/1R-001 in exchange for “built-up purchase history” After accumulating US$220K in purchase history, Rezaei never received the “promised” allocation – prompting his filed lawsuit When this story … ContinuedThe post Man files lawsuit against jeweller for not selling him promised $109K Patek after building up $220K purchase history appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Following the first Deployant Reacts article, we decided to follow up with another piece, this time with Britt Pearce's thoughts on certain watches.
Quill & Pad
In 2022 Bulgari comes at us with yet another world record in the Octo Finissimo Ultra, which instantly set the title of world’s thinnest mechanical watch. It blew Joshua Munchow's mind not just because it's the thinnest watch in history, but because it broke the record with flair (and a bit of controversy).
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader (and newest contributor) Brett Braley brings us a refreshing collection that skews the expected in creative ways. All three of these watches bring a unique personality to the table, and offer a surprisingly diverse range when considered together. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here. I have always hovered at the periphery of watches. Whether it was the Fossil watch I got for graduation from my parents or the souvenir Mickey Mouse watch I begged my aunt at Disney World, I have always seen watches as the supreme accessory for looking put together (or, at the very least, faking it). Recently, I have stopped being at the periphery of watches and have found myself smack-dab in the middle of the hobby. A few weeks ago, I attended the San Francisco Wind Up as a representative of my company, Esterbrook Pen Co. I’m the Director of Digital Marketing for a company that specializes in luxury pens. While this is a niche industry, it’s not any more niche than, say, watches and the two circles of the Venn diagram seem to be overlapping a good bit. When tasked to pick three watches, I went with the same criteria I use when picking a good writing utensil: value, aesthetic, and quality. I want something that will last, look good, and be worth the money I’m paying. And, last but not least, I wanted to go with three brands which aren’t as ...
Worn & Wound
Three years ago, my significant other turned 50 and for this milestone birthday she absolutely wanted a Tesla automobile. As the wonderful husband I am and knowing my 50th birthday was three years away, I knew this could open the door to a significant watch purchase, so of course, we made it happen. Luckily, we were very fortunate to take possession of her new cherry red car just weeks before the pandemic turned the entire world upside down. From that day forward, I had to figure out what would make the perfect 50th birthday watch, however, before we get to this process, you have to understand something about me. I call myself a serial monogamist when it comes to watch collecting. I am one of those people that can only have one “good” watch at a time. I cannot seem to have more than one, as there is always a preferred one and that one always gets the wrist time. As a result, since 1997, I have gone through hundreds of watches, always looking for watch next. My preference is for sport, dive and pilot watches and I have owned, photographed and reviewed some of the very finest in the world. I have done this by frequently trading, or selling and buying, but always with the same pool of watch funds. Oh, I have added a little bit here and there, and I have also gotten lucky a few times and come out favorably on some trades. All that said, it has been years since the wifely unit permitted a large watch purchase. You see, we have two adult kids in college and despite wha...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Here is our comprehensive breakdown of our favorite titanium watches and why we think they'll be a great fit for you.
Quill & Pad
Hunter Valley Semillon is one of the more curious styles of wine likely to be encountered. Most wine lovers from outside Australia (indeed outside of the eastern Australian states of New South Wales and Queensland) treat it with a little disdain, have never tried it or perhaps even heard of it. Ken Gargett explains why it should be on any wine lover's radar.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Oris Diver To start this week we have a cool and funky vintage Oris diver. The oval/cushion style chrome plated case is in great shape, with nice sharp edges and factory brushed finish intact. Seller doesn’t state the size but it looks to be on the larger size judging by the placement of the date window. The black dial is super clean, with nicely aged lume hour markers. It has an aluminum elapsed time divers bezel that is also in great shape. The crown is original and is signed with the Oris name. No movement picture, but the seller states it runs well. View auction here. Waltham Ultra-Thin Next up is a stylin’ vintage Waltham in yellow gold fill, complete with box and extras. The gold fill case looks nice and sharp, and has a nifty engine turned bezel similar to the classic Rolex Thunderbird and thin simple lugs. The simple crosshair gold dial has Arabic numerals at 12 and 6, along with a sub-seconds dial just above the 6. No date and gold dauphine hands complete the look. Nice, thin, classy dress watch. Best of all it comes in the original box with some little tags and a hangtag. Again, no movement picture but the seller states it runs well. View auction here. Vintage Bu...
Worn & Wound
Today, Farer has launched the latest additions to the Chrono-Sport lineup with their new Chronograph Sport Titanium collection. As the name suggests, these watches will be released in a titanium frame, versus the standard steel from previous models. Not only does this reduce weight by around 20%, but it also brings some of Farer’s most intriguing designs back to the forefront of conversation. Farer is a brand that knows what it’s doing and how to do it well. With an emphasis on updating classic designs with contemporary color combinations, Farer isn’t afraid to be bold without ever veering into the ostentatious. This can be seen with the two colorways for the Titanium collection: the Carnegie and the Bernina. Both inspired by the legendary motor races held in St. Moritz, each relies on a common design language that is somehow completely retro and totally modern all at once. The Carnegie Titanium leans more towards the alpine nature of St. Mortiz with its complementary blue and bronze accents. With a subtle sunburst dial and accents of silver, it’s a watch that could easily be found on any racer worth his salt in the heyday of motoracing. The ceramic bezel, three subdials, and Super-LumiNova hour markers all finish the appearance of the Carngie to put it miles above others in its class in terms of appearance. Contrasting the cool Carnegie is the more vibrant Bernina, which puts the pedal to the metal for the Farer line-up. With red and off-white accents, it’s a ...
Revolution
Wei joined Laurent Ferrier for an in-depth discussion on his design ethos for hyper-classic masterpieces and how our Laurent Ferrier X Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia came to fruition. Laurent Ferrier’s passion for watchmaking was inspired by his father, who was also a watchmaker. He has over 37 years of watchmaking experience, including working as the […]
Deployant
Glashütte Original extends their Sixties collection with a new model with small seconds, celebrating the 1960s as an era of experimentation and exploration.
Time+Tide
Lewis Hamilton was photographed wearing an unreleased white IWC watch at F1 Miami in May IWC today releases the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe It will be available at the beginning of July 2023 While I may be the New York City kid who has yet to get his driver’s … ContinuedThe post Remember that unreleased IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Lake Tahoe Lewis Hamilton was caught wearing? Well, it’s out now! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A bit of Capri waves, or a lot of tennis. Either sounds fine to me.
Worn & Wound
For Rolex its Oystersteel, their own version of 904L. Hublot has Hublonium, arguably the best named material in the industry. I like to picture a room of C-level executives in Geneva participating in a brainstorming session to name their special blend of magnesium and aluminum. Steve throws out “Hublonium” as a joke. Two hours later, there are no better ideas, and suddenly Steve seems like a genius. Feeling empowered, he suggests putting a rhinoceros on a Big Bang. Everyone trusts him after the success of Hublonium, so why not? 2 for 2 Steve. Congratulations. I can’t wait to see what you think of next. While the mixtures and creative names vary, ultimately, it’s all metal. This metal houses movements, dials, and hands. This collection of items gets thrown on a strap or bracelet. Collectively, the whole ensemble weighs 100, maybe 150 grams. It’s a small piece of functionality wrapped in metal, and sometimes that’s ALL it is. And that’s OK. But sometimes, for some people, this 100–150-gram object becomes more than a time keeping device. Growing up in Michigan, my grandparents lived on a small in-land lake a couple hours north of us. We made the drive frequently, enjoying hours-long daytime rides on grandpa’s pontoon boat, followed by hours-long games of cards at the lake house. My grandpa always wore, and still does, a tiger’s eye ring. There isn’t a moment I remember noticing this ring for the first time. It was just always there. The silky, golden sto...
Worn & Wound
MB&F; have never been shy about embracing their sources of inspiration to create structures and shapes unlike anything else out there. One particular source of inspiration has been a mainstay within the Horological Machine collection, and that is from the automotive space. We first saw it in the HM5 back in 2012, and then the original HM8 in 2016, and today that concept takes a step further with the HM8 Mark 2, which is an evolution of the original HM8, shrouded with a new aerodynamic case and crystal that appears to be taken straight off the back of a Porsche 918. The HM8 Mark 2 isn’t the first time we’ve seen an existing Horological Machine take on a significantly new form. The HM3 saw a variety of configurations in its lifespan, from the original released in 2010, to the Frog and Magawind variations that pushed the boundaries of the platform (and of sapphire). The HM8 in original form, called the Can-Am for its race inspired structure, featured a relatively flat case that placed a vertical display at one end, with the time being reflected in a similar manner to what we saw in the HM5. That design was a bit steampunk-ish and even geometrical in nature. The new Mark 2 variant takes things in a more organic direction. Right at the onset you’ll notice a more cohesive case shape with voluminous curvature blending the CarbonMacrolon shroud and the ‘double bubble’ sapphire that looks to have been shaped in a wind tunnel. A center section of titanium separates the tw...
Time+Tide
I am totally going to regret this. Right now, I am giving you a window into my horological browser history. Watches I personally favourite on Chrono24 and eBay, bookmarking them for later when the time to strike is right. I am not insinuating that the below three watches are inexpensive. They are absolutely not. But … ContinuedThe post 3 criminally undervalued watches to chase on the secondary market before buyers wake up appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A limited edition with a funky case joins a trio of new references in paying homage to the original Seiko 5 Sports.
Worn & Wound
You can put this one in the category of: We Didn’t See it Coming. Seiko has just launched a new Prospex branded version of a watch that can be described as a true cult hit of the early aughts, the Seiko Sportura Kinetic. If you’re scratching your head trying to remember the Sportura and coming up empty, perhaps you know it as “the Jay Leno,” as the former Tonight Show host is fond of wearing one while tooling around in steam powered fire trucks from the 1910s, or whatever. The Sportura’s fans, though, are legion. Our co-founder Zach Weiss is a Sportura owner, and I don’t think he even drives a Duesenberg. The new watches are being framed as a new chapter in the ongoing story of Seiko as a timer of competitive sporting events, which dates back to the 1960s. The conceit of the Sportura was a deconstructed chronograph display that shows elapsed time in three separate dial displays, each covered with a small custom crystal, which must have been terribly expensive and difficult to fabricate. The new watches (there are four in total) are simpler, with a layout that consists of a main dial for the time at 6:00, with what amounts to a trio of subdials arcing over it that display elapsed time. On the new watches, everything is part of one dial, so we lose some of that weird disconnected feeling, but much of the aesthetic sensibility remains. Functionally, they’re a bit different from the originals, as you’d expect given advancements in movement tech. While Kinet...
Hodinkee
On the eve of Philippe Dufour's 75th Birthday, the couple announced plans to give back in a big way.
Quill & Pad
Holthinrichs latest watch, the Deconstructed, has taken things to the next level without compromising the elements that make them so special. And Martin Green thinks the bracelet deserves a prize of its own.
Time+Tide
Why did Italy's business king and bona fide style icon Gianni Agnelli wear his watches in such an unorthodox way? Speculation abounds.The post Should you ever wear your watch over your cuff? Not unless you’re a playboy billionaire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We react to Teddy Baldassarre's video where he goes watch shopping with Kirby Allison, in search of building a four watch collection.
Quill & Pad
Joshua Munchow had the opportunity to spend some time with the slate-grey Tutima Flieger Automatic, a simple three-handed pilot's watch with date that comes in at an incredibly affordable price. He shares his thoughts here.
Hodinkee
Omega and Phillips are said to be victims of alleged fraud involving former Omega employees.
SJX Watches
Having surprised everyone with the Perpetual 1908, “Bubbles”, and “Puzzles”, Rolex continues to do the unexpected. Launched to mark the 100th year of the 24 Hours of Le Mans, the Cosmograph Daytona ref. 126529 LN is a new model based on the latest-generation Daytona launched earlier this year. But the Daytona “Le Mans” is not merely a facelifted chronograph but contains the cal. 4132. The new movement swaps out the conventional 12-hour counter at nine for a 24-hour register in a nod to the famous endurance race that Rolex has sponsored for over two decades. But perhaps most pertinent for enthusiasts are sub-dials, which are modelled on the vintage Daytona “Paul Newman”. And while availability for the Daytona “Le Mans” will be limited, at least initially, it is a regular-production model that will be available at retailers and boutiques. Initial thoughts A new Daytona with a new movement is big news not because it’s majorly different – this is still very much a Daytona – but because Rolex rarely introduces new models outside of the annual watch fair in Switzerland. And when it does, the watch tends to be a surprise in more ways than one. The new Daytona is actually new, largely because contains a new calibre, a simple variation of the current Daytona movement, but one that is mechanically different nonetheless. The movement reflects the Rolex approach to engineering that does nothing in half measures. Even though the cal. 4132 inside the Daytona ...
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