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New: F. P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance 2020 with Editorial Commentary & Analysis
F. P. Journe celebrates 20 years of the Chronomètre à Résonance with a new rendition of the resonance watch, with a new movement - the caliber 1520.
Results for Glashütte Original Caliber 36
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Quill & Pad
7 Brand-New IWC Portugieser Watches For 2020
Throughout the years, IWC has carefully extended its collection, adding complications and new variations, yet always under careful consideration of its original “DNA.” In 2020 IWC expands the Portugieser collection with new automatics, perpetual calendars, and chronographs.
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New: IWC Portugieser Novelties for 2020 with Editorial commentary
We love that the popular chronograph gets an upgrade to an in-house chronograph caliber. This is very important for IWC to stay competitive especially with Georges Kern's Breitling B01 chronograph caliber. At around the same price but with a stock movement, the older model Portugieser Chronograph would become a party joke without the much needed upgrade.
Revolution
Introducing The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication
The caliber 945 in a new case and dial layout celebrates 10 years of the Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication, celebrating The Art of Sound by Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater With Blue Dial
A sleek new take on Lange's original chiming watch.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph
A complicated Portugieser is the new home for IWC's caliber 89900.
SJX Watches
IWC Introduces the Portugieser Automatic 40
Characterised by a wide, sober dial with Arabic numerals and small seconds at six o’clock, the quintessential IWC Portugieser wristwatch has almost always been an extra-large, hand-wound timepiece, starting with the original ref. 325 of 1939. But for Watches & Wonders 2020, IWC has introduced a smaller take on the classic with the Portugieser Automatic 40. Available in four references, three in steel and one in pink gold, the new Portugieser Automatic is 40.4 mm wide and 12.4 mm high, making it quite a bit smaller and slimmer than the popular Portugieser 7-days ref. 5007. Notably, the latest Portugieser isn’t the first compact, self-winding variant of the model. In fact, it harks back to the little-known and uncommon Portuguese ref. 3531 of 1998 that was 35 mm and automatic. But in terms of design, the Portugieser Automatic 40 looks very much like a contemporary model. In fact, with the railway minute track and small seconds at six, it’s almost a dead-ringer for the Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days ref. 5102. Inside is the relatively new cal. 82200, which first made an appearance in the Da Vinci Automatic Edition “150 Years” in 2018. Offering a 60-hour power reserve, the movement is equipped with the latest-generation Pellaton winding system, which replaces the push-pull winding pawls that are found in the entry-level automatic cal. 32000. In addition, the automatic wheel, pawls and cam are made of wear-resistant ceramic. Key facts and price IWC Portugiese...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Cartier Privé Collection Tank 'Asymétrique Skeleton'
The Privé Collection Asymétrique debuts with an openworked in-house movement, caliber 9623 MC
SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces the Pasha de Cartier
As it does every couple of years, or decades, Cartier reintroduces one of its iconic wristwatches, this time the Pasha de Cartier. Launched in 1985 and a big hit in the decade after, the Pasha was Cartier’s original round-case bestseller, long before the Ballon Bleu. Three decades on, the new Pasha makes its debut once again at Watches & Wonders 2020 as a full-fledged collection with models for both men and women, from time-only to skeleton tourbillon, as well as diamond-set versions. Variants of the new Pasha 41 mm for men Mysterious origins Despite having a round case – Cartier is most famous for its shaped watches like the Tank and Santos – the Pasha is amongst the most historically-important Cartier timepieces, apparently. Legend has it that Cartier first created a water-resistant watch in 1934 for the fabulously wealthy Pasha of Marrakesh, Thami El Glaoui, who wanted a watch he could wear while swimming. The result was one of the first-ever luxury-sports watches. While the Parisian jeweller no doubt made a watch to fulfil the Pasha’s request, it was most likely a rectangular Tank Etanche, rather than anything resembling today’s Pasha watch. Inspired by that tale, the modern-day Pasha was born in 1985, penned by the hand of Gerald Genta, the prolific designer whose heyday in the 1970s and 1980s saw him create a string of hits, ranging from the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak to the Bulgari Bulgari. Genta’s creations were often avant-garde in their day, and his...
SJX Watches
G-Shock Introduces the Full Metal ‘Grid’
Casio’s best selling G-Shock Full Metal – essentially the original G-Shock design of 1983 executed entirely in steel (or titanium) – is now available in yet another iteration. The G-Shock Full Metal ‘Grid’ (ref. GMW-B5000CS) is covered in a square-lattice motif that represents the “time tunnel that connects the past with the future”, a nod to the vintage inspiration of the Full Metal model. The case and bracelet are stainless steel that’s first finished with a black ion plating, and then laser engraved with the grid pattern, bringing to mind the laser-engraved pixel pattern on last year’s camouflage model. The laser not only light etches the surface, but also removes the black coating, revealing the steel substrate beneath. Both the case and bracelet are covered in the etched grid, with the motif continuing onto the crystal as a printed pattern, Aesthetics aside, the Full Metal ‘Grid’ is identical to the standard steel model. The case is the same size as well as weight, and contains the same electronic module that has the usual functions as well as smartphone connectivity via Bluetooth. It’s solar powered and charged via solar cells on the face; at full charge it’ll run almost two years with the power-saving function turned on. The screw-down case back also features the laser-engraved motif The Grid is priced at US$800, which is a step up compared to the US$550 for the entry-level black-coated model. That’s because it’s a limited-production s...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Zenith El Primero A384 Revival with “Ladder” Bracelet
There are few brands that can make modern-day reissues of historical watches powered by the same movement as the vintage original. Zenith, as it happens, is easily able to, thanks to its long-lived El Primero. The chronograph movement celebrated its 50th anniversary last year with several commemorative A386 limited editions, including a one-off in platinum for charity, but most were in gold and thus pricey. On the other hand, the El Primero A384 Revival is a faithful remake – including a “ladder” bracelet – that’s part of the regular collection, and also affordable. Since 1969 While the A386 is the iconic El Primero chronograph – and today the most valuable – the A384 was introduced at the same time (along with the A385), making it part of the debut range of El Primero watches. One reason the A384 doesn’t quite have the stature of the round and relatively-ageless A386 is also one of its most distinctive qualities: a tonneau- or cushion-shaped case that instantly identifies it as a watch of the late 1960s and 1970s. The easily recognisable design has made the tonneau-shaped A384 a popular base for a variety of limited editions, including one based on a fictitious watch featured in the Japanese manga Lupin III. Romain Marietta, the brand’s chief of products, also indicated during a recent conversation that the A384 will continue to be the base for limited editions, while the A386 will not be reproduced again except in exceptional instances since it is syno...
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Review: YEMA Rallye Andretti Limited Edition
We review the Yema Rallye Mario Andretti Limited Edition, a remake of the original timepiece that Mario Andretti wore in the 1969 Indy 500.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Cornes de Vache 1955 in Steel
As modern, high-end chronographs go, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 is one of the most desirable, being a beautifully executed remake that’s faithful to the vintage original, while powered by an upgraded version of a well-regarded movement. The latest version of the Cornes de Vache 1955 has a steel case, making it even more unusual amongst high-end chronographs, which are almost always found in precious metal cases. As a result, the Cornes de Vache is now significantly more accessible – while retaining the retro design and excellent movement – at least by the standards of such watches. Cornes de vache French for “cow horns”, Cornes de Vache comes from the shape of the lugs, a slight variation on the better-known “teardrop” lugs. The inspiration for the watch is the ref. 6087, the brand’s first water-resistant and anti-magnetic chronograph that was in production from 1955 to the mid-1960s – and featured the very same “cow horn” lugs. Made in yellow or pink gold as well as platinum, the ref. 6087 is rare – only 36 pieces were produced over a decade or so. A vintage ref. 6087 “Cornes de Vache” in yellow gold that sold for 106,250 Swiss francs at Phillips in 2015. Photo – Phillips Like the vintage original, the modern-day Cornes de Vache was initially only available in precious metals: first in platinum, followed by pink gold, with the steel model only making its debut last year. It is worth noting that steel is used s...
Quill & Pad
Ikepod Megapod: Rebuilding A Niche Collection One Model At A Time
Ikepod has recently launched its second Kickstarter campaign with a new collection, the Megapod. Focusing on a three-hand dial with modern minimalistic details, the Megapod feels very much the descendent of the original Megapode collection and definitely fulfills the requirements for a solid, high-quality mechanical watch featuring incredible design at an affordable price.
WatchAdvice
Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Review
In 2018, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M celebrated its 25th anniversary since the first release back in 1993. To celebrate this momentous occasion for one of the brands popular range, Omega gave the Seamaster Diver 300M a complete changeover while still retaining some of the design cues from the original model. The original 1993 Omega Seamaster 300M was introduced as a replacement for the Seamaster 200M model. Jean-Claude Biver cleverly marketed the original 1993 Omega Seamaster Diver 300M to raise the popularity of the model quite a bit, by having James Bond wear it in the 1995 film ‘Goldeneye’. Since the first Seamaster Diver 300M, there have been four generations of models including the latest 25th-anniversary release. Almost all generations kept the same design cues with changes coming from different materials and movements. From first glance, the most notable changes throughout the four generations are the case sizing and the bezel design. The bezel seems to get larger numerals in each of the latest generations. Design: The 25th-anniversary edition has a laser-cut wave pattern dial, similar to the 300M model released by Omega in 2006. The latest version, however, has more prominent waves, making them much more easily visible. The wave pattern certainly adds a unique look to the dial while drawing attention to what the watch is really about. Even with the wave pattern, however, the dial is still easily legible. This is thanks to the rhodium-plated hour indexes ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Hamilton PSR: Reimagining The Pulsar P2
The Hamilton PSR is a faithful reimagining of the original Hamilton Pulsar P2 2900 LED watch. The original release of the P1 in 1970 was quite a big event. While LED technology had been developed and used by scientists for decades prior, it was an expensive technology to produce, particularly for a consumer product.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Cartier Santos-Dumont XL Hand-Wind
Though Cartier has a huge range of watch case styles, many are iterations from a handful of original designs that were usually created in the early 20th century. Only a handful stick closely to the design of the vintage originals, most notably the Tank Cintree and Crash, and now the new Santos-Dumont XL, newly launched at Watches & Wonders 2020. Originally (re)launched in last year in two sizes – both with quartz movements only – the Santos-Dumont is now available with a hand-wind, mechanical movement in a larger, but not too large, case. The elegant design that channels the spirit of the vintage original remains, with only the dimensions and movement changed. And the new hand-wind Santos Dumont XL is also well priced enough that it would be a value proposition in more ordinary times. Not only is the new model available in steel, which was absent before, the 18k gold version is almost 30% cheaper than the equivalent from the earlier generation. The Santos-Dumont XL in steel And in two-tone steel and 18k pink gold, which is a very 1980s look Since 1904… The watch gets its name from Alberto Santos-Dumont, a Brazilian inventor and aviator who spent his adult life in Paris. A minor celebrity in France for exploits in planes and airships, Santos-Dumont was a larger than life character: in the family history recently published by Francesca Cartier Brickell, The Cartiers: The Untold Story of the Family Behind the Jewelry Empire, Santos-Dumont is described as travelling betw...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Movado Datron Sub-Sea Chronograph’s Lost Story: Reuniting with Movado – Part 1
Powering the Datron is the base Caliber 319 PHC movement. However, you’re probably more familiar with its alias, “El Primero,” as marketed by Zenith. The two are virtually identical. As “the first automatic chronograph..."
WatchAdvice
Tudor BB36 review
Since Tudor’s inception in 1926, the brand has served as a feeder market of sorts to its big brother Rolex. For decades, Tudor watches shared cases, bracelets and crowns with Rolex, leaving the brand feeling like the lesser amongst watch enthusiasts. However, Tudor has seen a resurgence in popularity since the introduction of the Black Bay range in 2012. In 2016, the world welcomed the Tudor Black Bay 36. Has Tudor finally cemented itself as a peer of its creator, or is there work still to be done? The Tudor Black Bay 36, as the naming convention suggests, features a 36mm wide case constructed of both satin brushed and polished stainless steel. The case bears remarkable resemblance to the oyster style cases used by Rolex, and it’s not a surprise to see Tudor go with something similar in the Black Bay 36. After all, if it aint broke, don’t fix it right? The watch is comfortable and familiar on the wrist, so don’t let the 36mm sizing throw you off. Whilst it seems a little on the smaller side for a modern men’s offering, the Black Bay 36 feels like a modern watch on the wrist. It carries itself remarkably well, thanks to the incredible build quality and contrast between the finishes on the case and the character exuding from the dial. There is a high polish executed on the non-rotating bezel that catches the light and your eye at every opportunity. The bezel acts as a perfect frame for the deep, glossy black dial and stark white indices. The dial on the Tudor Black...
Time+Tide
Our 3 favourite watches from H. Moser & Cie.’s new Certified Pre-Owned Collection
In an increasingly common trend among Swiss watchmakers, H. Moser & Cie. has unveiled a dedicated, in-house managed range of certified pre-owned watches. Available for purchase directly through the H. Moser & Cie. website, the curated collection of timepieces are, according to Moser, meticulously inspected, serviced and polished back to factory original condition by the … ContinuedThe post Our 3 favourite watches from H. Moser & Cie.’s new Certified Pre-Owned Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
New Tutima Grand Flieger Airport And Chronograph Models With Colored Ceramic Bezels And Cool Textile Straps
Tutima Glashütte has launched two pretty colorful variations of the Grand Flieger Airport, one of the brand’s eight cornerstone collections. With their generous portions of pure pilot DNA, gradient dials in expressive green and blue hues and ceramic bezels, these day-date and chronograph watches are perfect for this spring's outdoor activities.
Revolution
Introducing Grand Seiko’s New Professional Diver, with a New Spring Drive Movement
On its 60th anniversary, Grand Seiko goes modern with a new Spring Drive caliber, that takes its modern watchmaking to a new level.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Grand Seiko Elegance Collection ‘Thin Dress’ SBGK007
Grand Seiko’s newest design style – the “Thin Dress” – combines a slightly retro case and dial with the signature hallmarks of the brand like diamond-cut hour markers, while being original in that is not obviously based on a vintage Grand Seiko model. Launched in early 2019 as part of the Elegance Collection, first with quartz and then mechanical models, the new design is used for the flagship Spring Drive SBGZ001 and SBGZ003 – magnificently-crafted watches that unfortunately start at US$57,000. Fortunately, the line-up is diverse enough that it includes an entry-level, mechanical model with a robust price-to-performance ratio, the Elegance Collection “Thin Dress” SBGK007. The SBGK007 is a compact, hand-wound wristwatch with a fairly minimalist design along with a handful of retro elements – in short, it is handsome and slightly vintage in feel. And the SBGK007, along with the rest of the Elegance Collection, was designed after Grand Seiko was spun off from Seiko to create an independent brand. As a result, the watch was designed from the ground up as a Grand Seiko, and perhaps for that reason the dial feels more visually balanced than earlier models that had “Seiko” removed from the dial. Elegant retro The SBGK007 is a compact watch, but sized very well, neither too big nor too small, measuring 39 mm in diameter and 11.6 mm high. Because of the case style and construction, it feels thinner than it measures, while also having a strong vintage vibe i...
Time+Tide
Three things we’re *really* digging about the Zenith X Revolution El Primero A3818 Revival
Last week, Zenith and Revolution magazine, as well as sister publication The Rake, dropped this – the El Primero A3818 Revival “Cover Girl”. This watch is a dead ringer for the original El Primero “Cover Girl”, so-called because it was the watch featured on the cover of Manfred Rössler’s book Zenith: Swiss Watch Manufacture Since 1865. … ContinuedThe post Three things we’re *really* digging about the Zenith X Revolution El Primero A3818 Revival appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Omega Constellation Manhattan: An Overlooked Masterpiece Of Design
As a fan of the classic 1950s and 1960s Omega Constellations, Colin Smith had always dismissed Omega’s 1982 reworking of its flagship model, known as the Constellation Manhattan, as something of an aberration from the “true” Constellation concept. His “road to Damascus” moment occurred recently when he saw a 36 mm black-dial co-axial chronometer on display at an Omega dealer in Bordeaux.
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual In White Gold – Reprise
The date: January 13, 2012. The place: Glashütte, Germany, where one of GaryG's best friends had arranged for the two of them to visit A. Lange & Söhne. The vision: his friend extended his arm from the sleeve of his shirt, and what Gary saw left him reeling – his first view of the Lange Datograph Perpetual in white gold. He was confident from that very moment that this was a watch for him, but pursuit of the piece took four long years.
Time+Tide
Genesis, with a twist: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Black Ceramic
Editor’s note: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is, in the context of a fit-for-purpose dive watch, the original. Nothing like it had come before, and because of it, watches like Rolex’s ubiquitous Submariner exist – the Fifty Fathoms was the catalyst for what is arguably the most popular sub-genre of timepieces ever created. But, while recognising … ContinuedThe post Genesis, with a twist: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Black Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the Presage Prestige Crown-Chronograph Remake
Having unveiled the vintage-inspired Presage Automatic Chronograph ref. SRQ031 in October 2019, Seiko has returned to the same historical wristwatch with the Presage Prestige 2020. Comprising of three variants – SPB127J1, SPB131J1, and SPB129J1 – the new Presage is once again modelled on the “Crown” chronograph ref. 5719A-45899 that was unveiled in 1964 to mark that year’s Tokyo Olympics. The vintage original was a mono-pusher chronograph with basic functionality, featuring a central, elapsed seconds hand and black plastic bidirectional bezel for recording times of over a minute. Last year’s Presage chronograph was a step up from the original with three counters, but this year’s Presage Prestige does away with the chronograph altogether. But since the original had a plain dial without registers, the new Presage Prestige manages to look pretty much the same. The original “Crown” chronograph from 1964 All three versions of the Presage Prestige differ only in dial colour, and are otherwise identical in terms of dimensions, design and movement. Because of the styling of the “Crown” Chronograph, the Presage Prestige manages to be fairly faithful to the original. Nearly all of the elements of the dial, from the chapter ring with the applied hour markers and oblong “lume” plots to the dauphine hands, are a close-enough replica of the original. Granted it has been modernised with the usual tweaks found in remakes, including a slightly larger case and ...
Quill & Pad
Michel Perchin Timepiece #1: From Pens To Watches, Elegance Reigns
For the Michel Perchin Model #1, designer and brand owner Patrick Pinkston works with a well-versed goldsmith workshop in the United Kingdom that he describes as “literally fabricating one case at a time.” There, each 36 x 55 mm white gold case is hand-finished and engraved. What else makes this independently crafted timepiece notable? Nancy Olson has the full story.
Time+Tide
Melbourne Franck Muller boutique robbed in broad daylight by man wielding syringe, hammer and bad wig
**UPDATE: We have had confirmation from Franck Muller Australia that the stolen model is a round diamond watch, model number 4200 QZ R D3 CD 5 N with serial number 36. If you come across this watch, please contact Crime Stoppers on 1800 333 000. No pictures of the watch are available at this time.** … ContinuedThe post Melbourne Franck Muller boutique robbed in broad daylight by man wielding syringe, hammer and bad wig appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.