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New: Breguet Classique Souscription 2025
Breguet releases the new Classique Souscription 2025 wrist watch - a one hand watch with only the minute hand over a pure white enamel dial.
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SJX Watches
Breguet Turns to Tradition with the Classique Souscription
The opening salvo in Breguet’s 250th anniversary has just been revealed: the Classique Souscription 2025BH. Although typically Breguet in style, the watch is a novel combination of elements, at least by the conventions of Breguet, a traditionally staid brand. Presented in a case of the new design made of a gold alloy of a new formula, it’s a wristwatch inspired by the one-handed souscription pocket watches of the 18th and 19th centuries. The fired enamel dial replicates that of the pocket watch, while inside is the VS00, a calibre that is descended from the movement of the La Tradition. Initial thoughts As storied a brand as it is, Breguet certainly has a lot to live up to for its 250th anniversary. I expect more to come from Breguet in the coming months, but the Classique Souscription is a strong start, though a little pricey. It’s essentially an elaborately executed time-only watch, precisely the sort of watch that is popular now when made by independent watchmakers, but big brands face more scepticism with such timepieces. The VS00 Though it might seem typical Breguet on its face, the Classique Souscription is an unusual proposition; it’s inspired by various elements from across Breguet’s history, some several centuries apart. The dial and movement are inspired by a 19th century pocket watch, while the case comes much later. But everything works well and the whole manages to look like a Breguet. Traditionalists might mourn the departure from familiar elements ...
Fratello
Introducing: The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 - Initiating The Brand’s 250th-Anniversary Celebrations
Abraham-Louis Breguet was probably the first watchmaker to launch a watch with the help of a Kickstarter campaign. Okay, well, not exactly, but in 1797, he made his 61mm Souscription pocket watch available for order with a 25% down payment. That way, the relatively simple watch with only one hand and a white enamel dial […] Visit Introducing: The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 - Initiating The Brand’s 250th-Anniversary Celebrations to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition
The Montblanc 0 Oxygen series celebrates explorers and mountaineers. These robust watches often feature worldtimer functionality and a second 12-hour time display. Today’s 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition does too, but it also brings impressive dial-making techniques and advanced materials. With a name like Montblanc, it makes sense that the brand pays […] Visit Introducing: The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Christopher Ward Introduces the C12 Loco
Out to replicate the success of the Bel Canto and prove it’s not a one-hit wonder, Christopher Ward has introduced the C12 Loco. While the integrated bracelet look is now commonplace, the Loco breaks new ground for the British brand in terms of its differentiated movement architecture, and features an inverted free-sprung balance on the dial side of the watch. Spiritual successor to the Bel Canto, the C12 Loco paints a picture of Christopher Ward’s ambitions as a brand. Like Louis Erard, which is on a similar mission to make traditional craft and independent design more accessible, Christopher Ward is looking to redefine what collectors should expect from entry level watchmaking. Initial thoughts The Twelve is Christopher Ward’s foray into integrated bracelet sport watches. Its launch in 2023 was not without some controversy, being seen as too similar to the Czapek Antarctique; it turned out both designs came from the mind of designer Adrian Buchmann. Despite the rocky start, the collection has been a commercial success and the brand has done a commendable job developing the line-up and keeping prices in check. The Loco is the most ambitious Twelve to-date, with an off-center time display that opens up space at six o’clock for an exposed balance wheel and escapement. Like the Bel Canto, the watch does not feature the Christopher Ward brand name on the dial. In an era when attention is the name of the game, it’s nice to see a small brand with the confidence to let...
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Mid Range Diver Watch Duel - Marathon Automatic Vs Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro
Teddy Baldassarre
Christopher Ward C12 Loco Review
Last year, Christopher Ward followed up on its hugely popular C2 Bel Canto with an Act II version, featuring a new dial texture. When it was released, I commented on how difficult sequels can be when the original captured lightning in a bottle, and pondered what it might take for the brand to accomplish such a feat again. This week, we’re getting an answer to that with the release of the new C12 Loco, featuring Christopher Ward’s second in-house movement, the CW-003. The C12 Loco is much more than that, though. Once again, Christopher Ward has taken inspiration from far more exotic realms, and has brought a custom-designed free-sprung balance to the dial side, floating underneath the hour and minute display. The Christopher Ward C12 uses the same twelve-sided, integrated case as The Twelve collection that was introduced back in 2023. The C12 Loco uses a 41mm steel case, much the same as the Twelve X, though now it clocks in at 13.7mm in thickness - so, while it’s large, it should still be perfectly manageable on the wrist. This is an integrated case, so the length is about the same as the width, with the ends of the case angling downward to meet the strap or bracelet end link. It’s also worth noting that the box crystal accounts for a good bit of that thickness. The midcase section is just 9.75mm in thickness. It’s everything between that span that serves as the star of the show here. The CW-003 caliber uses twin mainspring barrels to provide a healthy 144 ...
Monochrome
First Look – The Gorgeous Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph 5370R
The watch we’re looking at today isn’t exactly new, not in the strictest sense. But the way Patek Philippe sets itself apart from its predecessors – the 5370P in platinum, first released in 2015 with a black dial and later in 2020 with a blue enamel one – is worth noting. This latest version introduces […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The Christiaan Van Der Klaauw Grand Planetarium Eccentric Meteorite
Last year, for the brand’s 50th anniversary, Christiaan van der Klaauw introduced the Grand Planetarium Eccentric. It was a 44mm watch in platinum or rose gold with eight hand-painted celestial bodies circling its aventurine dial. That already sounds quite impressive, right? Well, when I met Pim Koeslag, CEO of the Dutch brand, at Watches and […] Visit Hands-On With The Christiaan Van Der Klaauw Grand Planetarium Eccentric Meteorite to read the full article.
Time+Tide
HYT goes for a sportier look with the S1 Series, but doing so in their signature style
HYT's latest keeps the octagonal T1 case, but opens up the dial.The post HYT goes for a sportier look with the S1 Series, but doing so in their signature style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 collection
Introducing the 2024 TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 collection: now featuring a new chronometer movement, refined case ergonomics, and a redesigned wave-pattern dial.
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WWT#33 VOTE! Should I Duel The Squale 1521 Vs Sinn 104? +Wrist Watch Magazines & Mid 2015 Releases
Time+Tide
Black and white: how does the new Tudor Black Bay Pro Polar compare to the original?
The new white-dial Black Bay Pro Polar is more than just a palette swap - but how does it stack up to the original black dial model?The post Black and white: how does the new Tudor Black Bay Pro Polar compare to the original? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Easter-Ready H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Sunny-Side Up
Cosmic Green, Funky Blue, Swiss Mad Red, Citrus Green… Indie brand H. Moser & Cie. is no stranger to bold, expressive colour. These vibrant hues have graced the dials of the Pioneer Centre Seconds series alongside Arctic Blue and Blue Lagoon. Now, Moser adds an Easter-related hue, or rather sun-related, for the new dial colour […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5370R Split-Seconds Chronograph Brown Enamel
One of the most beautiful, albeit not particularly novel, debuts at Watches & Wonders recently was the Patek Philippe Ref. 5370R-001 Split-Seconds Chronograph with a two-tone grand feu enamel dial in brown and cream. It’s merely a new variant of a longstanding model, but it is striking. Prior versions were in platinum with a black and then blue enamel dial; this is the first model in rose gold and perhaps the first-ever modern-day Patek Philippe with a multi-part, two-tone enamel dial. Design aside, the ref. 5370R retains the same specs and movement as its predecessors. Initial thoughts I usually don’t like brown dials, and the ref. 5370R is merely a cosmetic tweak. The movement remains the same CHR 29-535 PS that is good looking and contains some clever technical features, but its decoration could be a little more artisanal for the price. Overall, the ref. 5370R isn’t fundamentally new. And despite being in rose gold, it’s even more expensive than its predecessors in platinum, with a retail price crossing US$300,000. Being a Patek Philippe, the ref. 5370R is expensive, in the same manner that Ferrari and Hermes can charge more than the competition. But despite so much going against it, the ref. 5370R is one of the few watches that has remained in my memory in the weeks after W&W;. It is simply that beautiful. As the saying goes, if I could, I would. The new ref. 5370 looks classical yet modern, and still captures the old school Patek Philippe aesthetic. The two-ton...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G
The new Calatrava 8-Day may have gotten overshadowed by a platinum and salmon release, but it's still a watch worth coveting.
Time+Tide
Heavy, black and secretive, the new F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif is surprising in all the right ways (live pics)
A full tungsten carbide case and bracelet make this a surprising watch to hold, and a secret dial makes it a joy to wear. The post Heavy, black and secretive, the new F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif is surprising in all the right ways (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Best Ways To Deal With Minor Scratches & Orient Black Mako USA Automatic Watch Review
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: Precious Metal Classics from Omega and IWC, a Funky Waltham, and a Seiko 5 in Great Condition
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Waltham B-383 Rally Diver Here’s a wild one to start off this week, a vintage Waltham diver with a bold rally dial. The large squarish chunky steel case looks unpolished with sharp edges. The diver’s bezel has a cool half yellow, half black acrylic insert that is in really nice shape. The dial is what really sets this diver apart though, with its intricate black, yellow and blue alternating “rally” style design. Broad steel hands and the ubiquitous 1970s day/date window complete the look. No movement picture, but the seller states it runs well. This one has all the vintage swag you could want in a diver! View auction here Vintage Seiko 5 Sportsmatic Next up is this simple yet stylish vintage Seiko 5 Sportsmatic. These are really versatile, large and robust enough to be sporty, but you can dress it up with a nice leather strap and it would be right at home with a suit! This 1967 model is in excellent, unpolished shape, with a large 38mm case. The classic Seiko silver dial with steel markers and hands is also excellent. Of note, the hour and minute hands are the exact same hands used on the iconic Seiko 6105 divers, although the lume color is different. Nice clean auto...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Patek Philippe Ref. 6159G Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date
Patek expands its smoked sapphire dial collection with a second new release.
Monochrome
In-Depth – Deciphering the Revolutionary Rolex Dynapulse Escapement and the Calibre 7135
Rolex has changed… Not marginally, but significantly. We knew the brand was capable of being rather unpredictable and capable of bold creative moves, such as bubble-decorated dials and watches with a guilloché pattern. The days when Rolex simply revamped a collection every 10 years by implementing incremental upgrades and releasing new dial colours every two […]
SJX Watches
Biver Automatique’s in Yellow Gold with a Carbon Option
Having launched the Automatique last year in a range of metals except yellow gold, Biver has now revealed a pair in the classic precious metal. The Automatique in yellow gold debuts with a matching solid yellow gold dial or a more unusual dial in glossy, woven carbon fibre composite. Initial thoughts I was already a proponent of the Automatique, mainly because of the high quality of construction inside and out. The yellow gold duo add more options to the offering, but arguably bring more than just a new colour because the material evokes a vintage feel that suits the design. Between rose and yellow gold, I would pick the latter. The carbon dial version is interesting because it brings to mind the era of the 1990s when woven carbon fibre was a thing. The novelty of the material has since been supplanted by more exotic carbon composites, but the retro feel of the carbon dial is appealing. Moreover, it brings to mind the black-and-gold livery of John Player Special Formula 1 cars, which is precisely the point of this version according to Biver chief executive James Marks. Both versions are priced identically to their equivalents in the standard and Atelier Series. That’s fair enough but the carbon should be priced a little lower since the other Atelier models have mineral stone or fired enamel dials, which are typically costlier and harder to work than carbon fibre. The original colour of gold The new Automatique retains all of the features of the earlier versions, includin...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy, now with METAS Movement and More Updates
Of all the new releases from Tudor at this year’s Watches and Wonders, the standout piece was undoubtedly the evolution of the Black Bay 58 line, now presented in a striking all-burgundy design, with both the dial and bezel dressed in the deep red tone. While the dial colour holds historical significance, the real game-changer […]
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The Best Mid Range Swiss Automatic Diver Duel - Glycine Combat Sub Vs Squale 1521
Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Introduces a New, Smaller BR-05 36MM
Twenty years after the release of the Bell & Ross BR-01, which first showcased the square case shape and bold legibility that would become their aesthetic hallmarks, the Franco-Swiss brand is celebrating with new iterations of their most popular and recognizable watches. Among these new editions are four versions of the BR-05 36mm, which gives the model a smaller size and new dial colorways. The most noticeable update to the BR-05 is right there in its name-the smaller and thinner satin-polished steel case measures at 36mm in diameter and 8.5mm in thickness, giving it significantly less heft than the previous 40, 41, and 42mm models. Four screws ensure that the upper section of the case is hermetically sealed to the bottom, and give the iconic rounded square extra urban-industrial character. An integrated bracelet furthers the watch’s sporty-yet-elegant silhouette, secured by a folding satin-finished buckle. A screw-down crown flanked by guards and emblazoned with the Bell & Ross ampersand logo ensures 100 meters of water resistance, while a Caliber BR-CAL.329 automatic movement ticks away inside, maintaining a 54-hour power reserve. Each of the four new models features identical applique numerals and indexes, and skeletonised hour and minute hands (all filled with white Super-LumiNova X1). However, each dial varies in both color and material, all of which lean towards chic-versatility (yes, I did make that phrase up), but maintain a cohesive aesthetic. The first o...
SJX Watches
Tudor’s Black Bay Pro, Now in Opaline White
Tudor has given its Black Bay Pro a new look with an “opaline” white dial, fulfilling a long-standing enthusiasts’ wish. This new model replaces the black dial launched in 2022, while retaining the same 39 mm case and 24-hour fixed bezel. It’s equipped with a pale orange GMT hand that stands out prominently against the “polar” white dial. Initial thoughts Three years after its initial release, the Black Bay Pro remains one of the strongest value propositions in the sub–US$5,000 segment of dual time zone watches. Priced at US$4,375 on a steel bracelet, the Black Bay Pro is a true GMT with an independently adjustable local hour hand. Plus it features a solid bracelet with a micro-adjust clasp and a high-spec in-house movement. Naturally, the fact that it’s reminiscent of the Rolex Explorer II “polar” doesn’t hurt. The only drawback is the 14.6 mm case that is a little too thick for its compact diameter. Fortunately, Tudor does offer a better proportioned dual time zone with the Black Bay 58 GMT, but that’s only available in black and burgundy for now. Opaline dial The domed white dial is the star of the show. Like the original model, it features applied luminous ceramic-polymer hour markers. Here the markings are in black on a matte white dial, matched with an orange GMT hand. Apart from the dial, the watch remains identical to the earlier Black Bay Pro. It features a 39 mm case housing the COSC-certified MT5652 movement, which operates at 28,800 beat...
Time+Tide
Trilobe’s airy Folle Journée gets a touch of green and rhodium plating for a more ethereal feel
Shiny new rhodium plates, and a green... Dial?The post Trilobe’s airy Folle Journée gets a touch of green and rhodium plating for a more ethereal feel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New-Generation Perrelet Turbine Chrono Neo
Perrelet’s flagship Turbine, with its mesmerising 12-blade turbine spinning to reveal glimpses of the lower dial, returns with a sporty chronograph complication. Bold and contemporary, the new generation of Turbine Chrono Neo in lightweight titanium cases relies on an elegant, highly legible display of elapsed times using two central chronograph hands. The three new Turbine […]
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Could F.P.Journe's Chronomètre Furtif Dethrone The King Of Waitlists, The Chronomètre Bleu, As The Brand's 'It' Watch?
Another watch from F.P.Journe with a difficult-to-produce dial, case, and fantastic movement.
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