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Time+Tide
Norqain goes extraterrestrial with a meteorite dial in its flagship Wild One 42mm model... Which works strangely well.The post Norqain goes out of this world with the new Wild One Meteorite Special Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
One of the last launches of 2025 for A. Lange & Söhne, the Saxonia Thin Onyx is a riff on the brand’s most affordable and simplest watch. It’s only modestly different from the standard model – the dial is onyx stone while the case metal isn’t part of regular production – but the Saxonia Thin Onyx stands out. The watch is almost the dictionary definition of a formal-wear timepiece: flat, two hands and minimal colour or embellishment, so much so it blends into conventional Western formal dress. In fact, this is one of the strongest offerings in the formal-dress-watch segment because it is stark, elegant, and priced well. Initial thoughts Lange tend towards the high end of the price spectrum simply because of the brand’s focus on complications and quality. And the brand has also raised retail prices significantly in the last few years. So an affordable-ish Lange that isn’t a run-of-the-mill watch is a good thing. The Saxonia Thin Onyx is exactly that. While it is based on Lange’s entry-level dress watch, a fine but no frills timepiece, the onyx edition is different in look, feel, and materials. It’s available in two metals not offered for the regular production – platinum and Honeygold – and the dial is of course onyx, a mineral stone used sparingly (so far) in limited editions. At 6.2 mm high, the case is half the thickness of a Datograph and sits flat against the wrist. Though the case is 40 mm rather than the smaller size offered for the standard mod...
Fratello
Today, we’ll take a brief look at an exciting set of updated releases. The new Certina DS Action Diver 38mm collection continues as one of the best values around and now adds a ceramic bezel. A host of dial colors and case materials come along for the ride. Let’s get to it! While we bemoan […] Visit Introducing: The Updated Certina DS Action Diver 38mm Collection to read the full article.
Hodinkee
"How much lume do you want on this dial?" "Yes."
SJX Watches
Among Japan’s best-kept secrets, Orient Star occupies an intriguing middle ground between tradition and technology. Its latest creation, the Orient Star M34 F8 Date Green, captures that duality perfectly by combining an old-school movement with state-of-the-art dial and escapement components drawn from the vast capabilities of its parent company, Seiko Epson. The result is a watch that feels distinctly Japanese in both spirit and execution. The M34’s new green dial is embossed with a hand-engraved stamp and coated with an optical multi-layer film that creates shifting hues without a trace of pigment - an effect more often associated with much costlier watches. Beneath its shimmering surface lies Orient Star’s enduring in-house F8 movement, which continues a lineage that dates back to 1971. Initial thoughts The dial of the M34 immediately distinguishes it within its segment. Its engraved texture, embossed from a hand-engraved die, gives the surface a natural radiance, while the iridescent green tone - created through a PVD-applied optical multi-layer film - shifts fluidly under changing light. It’s a distinctly upmarket look that signals the depth of the Epson manufacturing ecosystem behind it. The case reflects that same industrial prowess, made entirely in-house within Seiko Epson’s facilities, using 316L stainless steel finished with Sallaz (more commonly known as ‘Zaratsu’) polishing to achieve distortion-free mirrored bevels. The 40 mm size and ...
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Deployant
Tutima adds a new dial and colourway to their Patria collection. Limited to only 25 pieces, this evergreen watch is a line extension.
WatchAdvice
A tourbillon with attitude and a dial that refuses to be ignored. Zenith takes the DEFY Skyline to a whole new level with this rose-gold powerhouse. Bold, modern, and seriously impressive on the wrist! What We Love The combination of a brick-red dial with 18kt rose gold is the perfect combination. Rich, warm, and instantly eye-catching. High-frequency movement and a flying tourbillon is an extremely rare combination that Zenith has executed with some serious technical finesse. From the mirror-polished chamfers to the brushed facets and the rose-gold rotor, everything feels intentional, premium, and beautifully executed. What We Don’t Limited versatility when on the full-gold bracelet. It pushes the watch firmly into “special occasion” territory. A premium model with stunning looks and highly technical movement, the price, however, might put the watch out of reach for many. While the rotor and caseback finishing are gorgeous, much of the movement is still closed off, and some collectors may wish for a more open view. Overall Rating: 9.1/10 Value for money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build quality: 9/10 Zenith has long stood as a brand that has valued itself on precision and bold mechanical innovation, all the way from its roots back in Le Locle in 1865. This has become apparent even more with the invention of the El Primero movement, cementing the brand’s position as one of the leaders of high-beat performance. In the modern era of watchmaking, Zenith...
SJX Watches
The Christopher Ward Bel Canto Lumière builds on the success of the original Bel Canto, which earned praise for being one of the most accessible chiming watches on the market. Its open-worked hour striker module remains the star of the show, combining a tidy architectural layout with a distinctive acoustic signature that sets it apart from anything else in its price segment. The Lumière keeps that mechanical drama intact but takes a futuristic turn with a smoked sapphire dial, luminous blue-green chapter ring, and a matching rubber strap that glows in the dark. The new execution gives the watch a distinctly modern, almost Tron-like character, yet it remains faithful to the core idea that made the Bel Canto a hit: offering a well finished, technically interesting hour striker at a reasonable price. Initial thoughts The Bel Canto made waves upon its release for being a visually dynamic hour striker at a price well below the norm for this complication. Not only cost effective, the hour striker module is neatly designed and well organised on the dial. In this respect, the Bel Canto exceeded previous attempts at making this complication affordable. In other words, it looks as good as it sounds. The last time we saw new dials for the Bel Canto, the brand went the traditional route with laser-etched guilloché and Roman numerals. This time, the Christopher Ward (CW) is going the other way, with a futuristic luminous treatment that extends to the rubber strap, encircling the wr...
SJX Watches
Marking its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin (VC) has celebrated in grand style, exemplified by the year’s latest, a pair of double-dial grand complications: Les Cabinotiers Cosmica Duo and Les Cabinotiers Moon Dust. Initial thoughts Each of the new Les Cabinotiers watches expresses a different facet of VC’s watchmaking identity. The Cosmica Duo stands out as a true wrist-worn observatory, combining 24 astronomical indications with a reversible construction that makes it unusually wearable for its complexity, while the baguette-set Moon Dust translates horological ambition into pure jewellery, with hundreds of diamonds framing a movement that remains uncompromisingly mechanical. As a group, these watches reinforce the idea that VC’s greatest strength lies in synthesis. Few manufactures can move so fluidly between engineering precision and artistic refinement, or treat engraving, gem-setting, and chiming mechanisms as parallel forms of expression. As unique pieces, pricing is largely outside the scope of this hands-on evaluation. As is typical for VC’s bespoke Les Cabinotiers department, each watch was almost certainly developed in close collaboration with its eventual owner, making them more commissions than catalogue items. Their value, therefore, lies not only in their material complexity but also in the fact that each represents a personal chapter in the continuing story of Geneva’s oldest watchmaker. The layered architecture of the Cosmica Duo. Image ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Watches with Roman numerals on the dial are among the most stylish and classically elegant of timepieces, despite the fact that most of them have what we might today refer to as an egregious typo. Then again, it’s not really a typo if it’s intentional, right? And the use of a "IIII" in place of the standard Roman numeral "IV" is clearly a conscious decision, as it's been commonplace for centuries. In this article, we offer some possibilities as to why. As anyone familiar with the Roman alphabet knows - and nowadays that probably includes anyone who pays attention to Super Bowl advertising - the Arabic numerals 1, 2, and 3 are rendered, respectively, as I, II, and III, but the format changes with the numeral 4, which is rendered as “IV,” and 5, which is simply “V.” Without getting too bogged down in an ancient alphabetization lesson, the first three numerals after zero (and after 5) are additive, while the one before the next major character, representing 5, is subtractive: “IV” stands for 4 because it’s five (V) minus one (I). And yet, take a glance at just about any watch dial, or clock dial, for that matter, that uses Roman numerals to denote its hours and most often you will find not a “IV” but a “IIII” - the so-called “clockmaker’s 4,” which differs from the Roman numeral we’re familiar with today. Making watches, as any aficionado knows, is one of the most meticulous, time-intensive, and detail-oriented pursuits in the world...
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Deployant
Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 collection has been killing it recently, and quietly. In 2024, we greeted the arrival of the SLGW003 with praise. It’s bright titanium case, silvery birch bark-inspired dial, and the Evolution 9 design language (which plays hard with the concept of light and shadow) was a winning combination that left a lastingRead More
SJX Watches
Ming’s latest release, the 37.11 Odyssey, builds on the brand’s reputation for luminous, multi-layered dials and inventive designs. The Odyssey takes the visual depth seen in the Bluefin and Uni to the next level with a smoked sapphire dial that reveals the movement beneath, paired with shark-tooth hands and a multi-coloured luminous display. Despite its futuristic appearance, the Odyssey remains a practical travel companion. The compact 38 mm titanium case weighs just 42 g and offers 300 m of water resistance, while the Sellita SW330.M2 movement inside provides caller GMT functionality (with a twist). Available on a rubber strap, a titanium bracelet, or the brand’s new 3D-printed Polymesh strap, the Odyssey showcases Ming’s evolution from a design-driven micro-brand to a mature independent watchmaker with its own distinct language and value proposition. Initial thoughts The Odyssey is appealing because it plays to the brand’s strengths with regard to multi-layered, semi-transparent luminous dials. Like many of Ming’s best watches, including the similarly constructed Bluefin and Uni, the Odyssey provides a pleasing parallax effect thanks to the presence of luminous material on both the dial itself, as well as the underside of the sapphire crystal. The Odyssey takes the layered look even further by revealing hints of the movement through a smoked sapphire crystal dial. The movement is a typical Sellita GMT calibre, customised for Ming with anthracite-coated plat...
Fratello
The Studio Underd0g × Massena Lab 03Series Champagne & Caviar has just been uncorked, and it’s as spirited as its name suggests. This limited-edition monopusher chronograph merges Studio Underd0g’s tongue-in-cheek British design with William Massena’s connoisseur’s eye. The resulting watch celebrates excess. The dial blends the soft glow of champagne with the dark sheen of […] Visit Introducing: The Studio Underd0g × Massena Lab 03Series Champagne & Caviar to read the full article.
SJX Watches
In the coming weekend, one of the most important watches of this auction season will go under the hammer at Sotheby’s Breguet’s 250th anniversary thematic sale November 9 – Breguet no. 1890, a pocket watch with tourbillon and natural escapement made by the firm by Breguet while Abraham-Louis Breguet himself still helmed the company. The gilt dial with a regulator-style layout might seem familiar – the recent Classique 7225 reproduces this dial design. In fact, Breguet no. 1890 isn’t the only watch in this style; it belongs to a series of pocket watches all equipped with a four-minute tourbillon and échappement naturel from the early 19th century that were among the finest watches of the time. Breguet built just eight four-minute tourbillons with natural escapement, all of which thankfully survive, and only three with gold dials. King George III ordered the most famous example – almost identical to this watch – during the Napoleonic wars. For context, that would be like Churchhill (who owned a Breguet himself) ordering an A. Lange & Söhne watch during the Second World War. As such, it was signed Recordon, Breguet’s London agent, to disguise its French origins. Whirling About Regulator Almost 225 years ago, the French Ministry of the Interior granted A.-L. Breguet a patent for his most famous creation, the tourbillon – a clever exercise in lateral thinking. For a mechanical watch to keep the same time across all vertical positions the combined balance, st...
SJX Watches
Seiko’s evergreen mountaineering companion, the Prospex Alpinist, enters its fourth decade with its fourth major update. The 2025 edition gains an a longer power reserve, a scratch-resistant Diashield case coating, and - most notably - the return of vintage styling cues from the first generation, including the italic “Alpinist” signature on the dial. The new generation (refs. SPB503, SPB505, SPB507) debuts in variants including the signature forest green, along with a limited edition of the outgoing generation exclusively for Singapore, Hong Kong, Macau, Malaysia, and Brunei in an icy white (ref. SPB532). Though it commands a slightly higher price than the outgoing model, the enhancements make it a more capable and durable field watch, keeping the value proposition firmly intact. Initial thoughts This year the iconic green-and-gilt Alpinist turns 30, though it seems to have aged gracefully, with the latest generation being the best since its original debut. Though the Prospex “X” emblem and “three days” script depart from the model’s earlier design, the return of the “Alpinist” script is a welcome touch. Personally, I’ve always favoured its bigger brother, the Landmaster, which has higher specs for a higher price. But for most aspiring mountaineers, the much more accessible and conventionally attractive Alpinist is a better option. Since early references of the Alpinist are incredibly difficult to find – at least by Seiko standards – the new ...
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Explore the best blue dial watches we've reviewed across various styles with hands-on picks by budget with real-world pros and cons.
Time+Tide
Evoking opulence, the "big-eye" monopusher chronograph features distinctive dial tones and textures, in true Studio Underd0g style.The post Studio Underd0g and Massena LAB serve up a luxury pairing with the Champagne & Caviar 03SERIES appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In just four short years the Tissot PRX has become a runaway success, spawning variants in almost every imaginable size and colour, but the new PRX 38 mm in Damascus steel stands apart. The patterned case and dial give it a tactile, almost artisanal quality rarely seen at this price point, with randomised striations that make each watch unique. Priced at a reasonable premium compared to the standard model, the Damascus steel case and dial of the new PRX are the result of forging and folding multiple steel alloys, which are then etched with acid to reveal a distinctive texture. Initial thoughts The PRX has proven to be widely successful for Tissot, and is now available in countless sizes, colours, and materials. Many are forgettable, but a few stand out. The Damascus steel variant is among the latter. The new PRX in Damascus Steel is one of the best yet, especially in the nearly perfect 38 mm size that will fit well on just about every wrist, big or small. The patterned grey texture found on the case and dial is immediately appealing, and while a full Damascus steel bracelet would have been even better, the leather strap helps keep costs in check and avoids the trap of looking too busy. Like other PRX models, the Damascus steel edition features the Swatch Group’s signature Powermatic 80 movement, which offers a convenient 80 hour power reserve, which should last through the weekend for all but the most sedentary lifestyles. It’s not much to look at, but that’s alright...
Monochrome
At MONOCHROME, we have a soft spot for… well, monochrome. The balance of light and shadow on a dial, the quiet elegance of a perfect photograph… something about removing colour to reveal form, texture, and contrast that we find so immensely appealing. So when we learned that Elka Watch Co., the young Swiss brand known […]
Deployant
We take the latest Seiko Prosptx Alpinist for a spin. This release is a Thong Sia Group Exvclusive, with a beautiful snowy white dial.
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Monochrome
A Chinese brand founded by two Frenchmen, Atelier Wen, has come a long way since introducing its first watches in 2018. After a break to redefine their brand, the founders launched Perception, a unique combination of a guilloché dial inside an integrated, sporty-chic watch proudly made in China. This collection has given the brand quite some visibility. It’s now time […]
Deployant
Yet another Louis Erard partnership, this time with the Astro Boy. And now in the new 2340 case and a very atrractive dial. Nostalgia on the wrist.
Deployant
Sartory-Billard releases the SB04-E Tantoster, with a tantalum ghilloché dial in a steel watch. This is possibly the first tantalum dial we have ever seen.
WatchAdvice
A forgotten 1970s prototype finally brought to life, the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli is Zenith at its poetic best. A celestial twist on a historic design, this is a watch that feels as timeless as the night sky it represents! What We Love The Lapis Lazuli stone dial is genuinely stunning. A vibrant, rich, and ever-changing under light, perfectly capturing Zenith’s celestial identity. The El Primero 3610 movement keeps the brand’s DNA alive with that iconic 36,000 vph beat and flawless integration of the triple calendar and moon-phase. Despite the dial’s visual complexity, the blue-and-white contrast and colour-matched calendar wheels keep everything clean, legible, and refined. What We Don’t The straight lugs don’t curve down enough, meaning the case can sit slightly proud on smaller wrists. At 14 mm, it’s not overly chunky, but some may find it a little tall, especially under tighter cuffs. As a complete calendar, it still requires five manual date changes a year, not a deal-breaker, but something to note for practicality. Overall Rating: 8.9/10 Value for money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 The story of the Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar is a fabled one, as it is about a timepiece that never made it to production, up until almost 54 years later, when Zenith went through their archives and found the original plans for this timepiece. While we can say that Zenith might’ve missed out on an incred...
SJX Watches
Farer has managed to carve out its own niche in the new wave of British-founded, Swiss-made brands, with playful (and skillful) use of colour and accessible pricing. Two new additions to the Moonphase collection continue that pattern: the Stratton and Burbidge feature Farer’s signature cushion-shaped case and crisp detailing that gives them an unmistakably contemporary feel despite their traditional inspiration. The Stratton is the second Farer model to feature a natural stone dial, this time in Eisenkiesel quartz, while the Burbidge, limited to just 100 pieces, flaunts trendy Eastern Arabic numerals and a playful blue-and-pink palette. Initial thoughts Farer’s brand identity is rooted in British design and Swiss production; in this respect it’s similar to Christopher Ward and Fears. The brand offers a playful, and often colourful, twist on traditional tool watch motifs. The Moonphase collection is among the brand’s dressier offerings, and the Stratton and Burbidge are each interesting in their own right. The most eye-catching of the pair is the limited edition Burbidge with Eastern Arabic numerals for the dial and date wheel. The blue and pink colourway is charming and the exotic numerals will likely prove to be something of a ‘secret handshake’ among those who are up-to-date with collector culture. The Stratton, named for British astronomer Frederick Stratton OBE, sticks to regular numerals but features a natural stone dial made of Eisenkiesel. The thickness...
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