Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Rolex Explorer II Ref. 226570
Now updated with the in-house 3285 caliber.
Results for Patek Philippe Calibre 89
2,582 articles · 401 videos found · page 97 of 100
Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Up Close: Citizen Series 8 Automatic
I was impressed by the Caliber 0200 that Citizen unveiled earlier in the year. A new design with an integrated bracelet and an automatic movement developed from scratch, the Caliber 0200 costs US$6,000 – more than the typical Citizen – it is unquestionably a value proposition. The level of fit and finish, especially on the case and bracelet, surpasses practically everything else at that price. Still, US$6,000 is not affordable for everyone. Citizen soon followed up with the Series 8, a line of watches similar to the Caliber 0200 in style but far more accessible price-wise, with the base model starting at US$1,200. Like the Caliber 0200, the Series 8 outperforms in its far lower price segment. The Series 8 is made up of three models – 830, 831, and 870 – but the standout is the 870, the watch pictured below. Citizen loaned me one for a few days, an experience that confirmed my initial impressions. Initial thoughts The Series 8 watches are all excellent at their respective price points, but the 870 impressed me the most – it’s the most expensive but paradoxically the best value. Admittedly, the 870 is yet another sports watch with an integrated bracelet. The familiarity of the concept makes it more difficult for a new entrant to succeed. One benchmark for success in this category is design – the watch has to look good while avoiding being derivative. And another is competitive pricing, since most fresh arrivals in the space can’t compete with the establishm...
Revolution
Introducing Gucci’s 100th Anniversary High Watchmaking Collection
Gucci celebrates their 100th anniversary by introducing four high caliber timepiece collections with a staggering 33 new models.
Hodinkee
This Lucky Man Buys Thousands of Watches For a Living
An interview with Crown & Caliber's Mark Hackman.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m
Historically best known for ultra-advanced quartz and solar-powered watches – including the most accurate watch ever – Citizen has been on a tear recently with good, old-fashioned mechanical watches. The Japanese watchmaker started the year the high-end with The Citizen Caliber 0200, and then moved onto something more accessible but still sporting an integrated bracelet. More recently it took the covers off the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m ref. NB6004-08E. Oversized and aggressively styled, the new Promaster is eminently affordable – retail is about US$1,000 – but kitted out with impressive features, including a hardened case as well as a magnetism-resistant in-house movement, which makes it excellent value. (And it has a cool, glow-in-the-dark buckle.) Initial thoughts In my early days as a watch enthusiast, I had a soft spot for Seiko dive watches, because they were diverse in style and budget friendly. Citizen, on the other hand, didn’t feature as much, because it only offered one or two notable mechanical dive watches as the company largely focused on solar-powered watches (and still does). But Citizen is expanding its repertoire at a measured pace, but making tremendous progress. The Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m is a single model, but offered in several variants (though availability of each version varies throughout the world). Citizen lent me the base model – brushed titanium with a black dial – for a few days. On paper, the watch is high s...
SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Marble Edition
While Chanel started the year with the J12 in rainbow colours inspired by electronic dance music, its latest is sleek and stark in black and white. The Monsieur Marble Edition is a variation of the Monsieur Edition Noire from 2019, retaining the same steel and ceramic case – and the in-house Caliber 1 movement – but matched with a dial in glossy black marble with white veining. Initial thoughts I liked the original Monsieur de Chanel when it was launched in 2016. Even though Chanel is a primarily fashion house, the Monsieur was proof it made excellent watches for men. Its design was thoughtful, and the movement attractively executed in both style and construction. The subsequent Monsieur in black ceramic had all the same qualities, but an monochromatic look that made it more appealing. And the new version is even more appealing, because the marble dial looks good. Even though the only change is the marble dial, its natural grain goes well with the design of the Monsieur, so the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. Price wise, however, the new Monsieur is harder to digest. At just under US$37,000, it costs almost US$10,000 more than the original version in ceramic, which was a reasonable-enough proposition considering the design and movement. The Marble Edition is unquestionably beautiful – I’d want one – but the price is steep. Black and white Each dial is made of one piece of marble carefully cut into three to form each section of the dial, allowing the ...
Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: The Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch, Possibly The Most Toolish Tool Watch Ever Made
"As all experienced navigators know, it is extremely easy to get lost." –Phillip Van Horn Weems
Hodinkee
Auctions: A Mysterious Unsigned Chronograph Minute Repeater Is Coming Up At Phillips
Tucked behind a common chronograph caliber, you'll find something very special.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: Grand Seiko's Kiyotaka Sakai Breaks Down The New 'Tree Rings' LE – And The New Series 9 Design (Live Pics & Pricing)
The fourth timepiece to house the new Hi-Beat caliber 9SA5 is also a pretty-in-platinum showcase for the new Series 9 design.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Is Getting Into Pre-Owned Watches. What Does That Mean for You?
It's an honor to welcome the entire Crown & Caliber family into our community.
Hodinkee
Culture Of Time: Groundhog Day's Best Supporting Actor Is A Bedside Alarm Clock
An ode to the flip-action Panasonic RC-6025.
Deployant
De Bethune invites you to travel with their new travel watch: the DB25GMT Starry Varius
De Bethune releases its 29th in-house caliber with a combination of traditional watchmaking with state of the art technology. The new DB25GMT Starry Varius.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The new Oris Hölstein Edition is a cool grey vision of a Big Crown future
The Oristas out there eagerly anticipate the annual Oris Hölstein Edition, and the Big Crown is a beloved staple of the range. Recent additions have been strong with the new Caliber 400 making its Aquis debut, and the Big Crown cherry-candy delight of Fratello’s bronze-cased limited edition here. Despite the distinctive looks of the short-lugged … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Oris Hölstein Edition is a cool grey vision of a Big Crown future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko Nature Of Time: 4 Watches For 24 Seasons
The Grand Seiko Nature of Time is a collection of four watches celebrating the Japanese system of dividing the year into 24 small seasons called sekki. Two of the watches have stainless steel cases and are powered by a mechanical high-beat caliber, while the other two are housed in titanium and run on Spring Drive Caliber 9R65. And let's have a look at those 'seasoned' dials!
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Nonantième
Marking its 90th anniversary this year, the Reverso is the only truly successful reversible wristwatch. Jaeger-LeCoultre has long utilised the twin sides of the Reverso case for complications, and now for the first time equips the flip side with a digital hour display. The Reverso Tribute Nonantième – nonantième is French for “ninetieth” – has a conventional front, but an unusual reverse decorated in blue lacquer that features a “semi-jumping hour”, disc minutes, along with a day and night display. Front and back Initial thoughts From the front the Nonantième is hard to distinguish from other Reversos, but from the back it is immediately interesting with its digital hour and disc-type minutes. The reverse face is attractive and certainly unique, but the movement inside is more familiar. Though the cal. 826 is new, it is evidently derived from the cal. 853/854 in the various Reverso Duoface models, being similar in principle but different in indications. It’s mechanically novel, though the fact that the hour display is “semi jumping” rather than actual jumping is regrettable. The reverse display with digital hours Rectangular (or even tonneau) watches usually lose their elegance beyond a certain size, and the Nonantième is close to the limit. At 49.4 mm by 29.9 mm, the Nonantième is a big watch, identical in size to other extra-large models in the Reverso line up, making it suited for larger wrists. At a bit over US$40,000, the Nonantième feels p...
SJX Watches
Citizen Unveils an Affordable, Integrated-Bracelet Sports Watch
Unveiled alongside the flagship The Citizen Caliber 0200, the Series 8 is a line of affordable, integrated-bracelet sports watches equipped with slim automatic movements that have increased magnetism resistance. The Series 8 is made up of three sub-collections: the 870, 830, and 831. All are similar, but have different case and dial constructions, as well as different movements, but are all accessibly priced affordable, starting at $1,200 for the 831 and rising to US$2,000 for the 870. Initial thoughts The Series 8 is essentially a luxury-sports watch done accessibly – the case is angular and faceted, with both brushed and polished surfaces finishes, while the bracelet is integrated. While the styling brings to mind several other well-known watch designs, the Series 8 watches are not outright copies, which is a good thing, especially at this price range where originality harder to find. The 870 with its two-piece bezel The 830 with its three-layer dial of mother of pearl under a metal lattice Though all three models are slightly different, they are almost identical in size at 40 mm wide and a relatively thin 10-12 mm high. That’s a good size that large enough but not so big that the watch feels chunky, which is likely for this type of design beyond a certain size. The 870 with its two-colour bezel seems the most appealing of the trio, with both its case and bracelet being more streamlined. Both the 830 and 831 have the same case that’s slightly octagonal, which m...
Deployant
AP: hands-on review of the new Royal Oak Offshore Diver
We got up-close and hands-on with the new AP Royal Oak Offshore Diver, now in three dial options, a new caliber 4308, and an interchangeable strap system.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Zenith DEFY 21 Ultrablue adds a touch of indigo to a high-tech tour de force
Only two weeks ago we introduced you to the firework display of bedazzling colours in the DEFY 21 Felipe Pantone, which hypnotised us with small, fresh flashes of the rainbow. This time, Zenith shows us how the angular tool presence of the DEFY series projects an image of quiet elegance, in the Zenith DEFY 21 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith DEFY 21 Ultrablue adds a touch of indigo to a high-tech tour de force appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Offshore 42mm Collection with a new movement and interchangeable strap system
Audemars Piguet is coming in hot for 2021, and AP is not pulling any punches. It is clear the plan is to usher in a new era of timepieces, and in particular the Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Offshore collection is home to two brand new innovations: an all new in-house caliber and the first-ever … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Offshore 42mm Collection with a new movement and interchangeable strap system appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Grand Seiko Heritage Series 9 Gets 2 Additions: The SLGH007 & SLGH005
Grand Seiko brings their ground breaking caliber 9SA5 to two more watches with superb dials within the Heritage Collection Series 9: SLGH005 & SLGH007
Revolution
Introducing the Piaget Polo Skeleton
Piaget brings their 21st century Polo into their ultra-thin fold with the Polo Skeleton, powered by the now evolved, 2.4mm 1200S1 self-winding caliber
Deployant
De Bethune presents their latest watch, one movement with 2 dials and 2 identities – the new Kind-of-Two Tourbillon
De Bethune introduces a new DB29 with two faces, and a flip case - their Kind of Two Tourbillon - two dials, two identities, one movement.
Time+Tide
Nick’s 3 favourite watches of 2020, including Cartier, Seiko and Hamilton
In spite of some not inconsiderable distractions, there were some pretty decent watches released in 2020. Quite a few of them actually. Omega relaunched their serially produced caliber 321, Bulgari executed the Octo Finissimo in steel, Grand Seiko launched an entirely new escapement in their SLGH002 and DOXA brought their most iconic design into the … ContinuedThe post Nick’s 3 favourite watches of 2020, including Cartier, Seiko and Hamilton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The watches I wore the most in 2020: The Seiko Prospex SPB083J1, Sinn 104 and Lorier Neptune
Sooo difficult! This has been a bastard year, in which one of the few ways to cheer yourself up in the Home Office has been to keep the collection in rotation and flip some unworn wrist machines. But still, within my changing collection, there are a handful of watches that have stuck with me. I … ContinuedThe post The watches I wore the most in 2020: The Seiko Prospex SPB083J1, Sinn 104 and Lorier Neptune appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The gold and the beautiful: the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 King Gold
Editor’s note: This year at Hublot has focused heavily on celebrating the 40th anniversary of the brand, but there was another important new chapter in the history book of the masters of fusion. The in-house Meca-10 movement, a caliber that has been restricted to the classically round Big Bang case, was set free into the … ContinuedThe post The gold and the beautiful: the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 King Gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The technical tour de force of the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Titanium
Hublot don’t do things by half. If they do something, they do it full throttle, and you can see that in the in-house movements they produce. You won’t find a simple three-handed caliber; no, instead you’ll find chronographs, tourbillons and some of the most impressive power reserves in the game. Of their in-house movements, this … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The technical tour de force of the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
8 of the best skeleton dials of 2020, from $340 to more than a million
Skeleton dials are not necessarily everyone’s cup of tea, but the gearheads and engineers among us go crazy for the transparent aesthetic. They allow the wearer to see the internals of their watch throughout the day without having to flip the watch over to take a peek. When done right, it becomes a fascinating city … ContinuedThe post 8 of the best skeleton dials of 2020, from $340 to more than a million appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Two new Grand Seiko watches – Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary & Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Editions
As the year of the 160th anniversary of Seiko’s founder, Kintaro Hattori, draws to a close, Grand Seiko proudly celebrates his life and achievements with a Spring Drive masterpiece. The watch is powered by Caliber 9R02 and features a Platinum 950 case with indexes and hour and minute hands in 14K white gold. A secondRead More
Quill & Pad
Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de L’Horloge: How Two Tourbillons Rotate Within A Revolving Dial
The Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge features two separate tourbillons – but that isn’t all: the hour wheel moves a plate that makes a rotation once every twelve hours, taking the hour hand (and everything else on the dial) with it. The open movement on the dial side puts everything beautifully on display. But possibly it's the hand-engraved case back, a poetic story in itself, that is Elizabeth Doerr's favorite detail of this new watch.
Quill & Pad
Piaget 12P: The Birth Of An Ultra-Thin Legacy – Reprise
When Piaget introduced the manual wind Caliber 9P at the 1957 Basel Fair, at only 2 mm in height, it was considered an impossibility. Three years later, in 1960, Piaget stunned the watch world once again with Caliber 12P, an automatic movement that broke world records for its svelteness. What does that have to do with a vintage watch Martin Green saw? Find out here.