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Louis Vuitton Announces Prize for Independent Watchmakers SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Announces Prize Jan 3, 2023

Louis Vuitton Announces Prize for Independent Watchmakers

Independent watchmaking has been gaining rapid momentum in the last three years. Young and talented watchmakers have emerged to seek recognition (and sometimes riches) in the mould of Philippe Dufour, Kari Voutilainen, and François-Paul Journe. Now the field is about to get the nod of approval from the luxury-goods establishment, with Louis Vuitton having announced the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. Conceived to promote “horological creativity”, the award begins in 2023 with a broad remit. It is open to anyone in watchmaking and watch design, and even from fields related to horology. Initial thoughts As the world’s largest luxury brand, Louis Vuitton has unsurprisingly been making high-end watches for some time – last year was the 20th anniversary of its first mechanical wristwatch. Following its acquisition of Geneva movement maker La Fabrique du Temps in 2012, the brand’s ambitions have grown, resulting in impressively complicated watches like the Tambour Carpe Diem, a minute repeater with automaton. From that perspective, the Louis Vuitton prize is a natural extension of the brand’s progress as a watchmaker, a way for Louis Vuitton to make known its commitment to high-end watchmaking.  The fact that Louis Vuitton is using its considerable resources – the brand’s 2021 revenue was in the region of €15 billion – to support independent watchmakers is a welcome development. The prize money is substantial, reputedly in the low six ...

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In Conversation with Ben Küffer About the Wild One Collection at NORQAIN’s New Singapore Boutique Revolution
Norqain s New Singapore Boutique Dec 22, 2022

In Conversation with Ben Küffer About the Wild One Collection at NORQAIN’s New Singapore Boutique

Since its founding in 2018, NORQAIN’s profile has been on a meteoric upward trajectory. Under the leadership of CEO Ben Küffer, their youthful drive to write their own history in the annals of sports watches drew industry legend Jean-Claude Biver to come onboard as an advisor. Together, they have created their vision of the ultimate […]

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INTRODUCING: The Tutima Patria Small Second Blue & Gold Time+Tide
Tutima Dec 22, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Tutima Patria Small Second Blue & Gold

With its name first appearing on watches as early as 1927, Tutima have had a tumultuous yet resilient history. You may not be as familiar with them as some other German watchmakers, but they nonetheless excel in all corners. This latest release for the brand is quite a unique take on a traditional dress watch, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Tutima Patria Small Second Blue & Gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Independedit: Habring² Doppel 38 Time+Tide
Dec 18, 2022

The Independedit: Habring² Doppel 38

In this intermittent new series, we’ll be looking to highlight the most interesting new independent pieces that we come across, and that we feel don’t get as much love as they deserve. Before we discuss the watch itself, we’ll dive into a brief history of the brand, hopefully bringing some more attention to fantastic independent … ContinuedThe post The Independedit: Habring² Doppel 38 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The Delbana Rotonda gets perked up with a range of new colours Time+Tide
Dec 18, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Delbana Rotonda gets perked up with a range of new colours

We’ve paid a lot of attention to the re-emerging Delma recently, a Swiss brand with nearly a century of unbroken history that not enough people knew about. It may also surprise you to learn that around 20 years ago, Delma integrated another brand into their company with a similar story - and that brand is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Delbana Rotonda gets perked up with a range of new colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Seiko Introduces the Presage 110th Anniversary SPB359 SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Dec 13, 2022

Seiko Introduces the Presage 110th Anniversary SPB359

Seiko made history when it produced the first-ever made-in-Japan wristwatch in 1913. Known as the Laurel, the 1913 wristwatch was typical of the era when pocket watches were evolving into wristwatches. To mark the 110th anniversary of its first wristwatch, Seiko debuts the Presage Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary ref. SPB359. Featuring a fired enamel dial, the Presage 110th Anniversary is modelled on the 1913 original, right down to the case reminiscent of a pocket watch. Initial thoughts Seiko regularly rolls out Presage limited editions with dials ranging from porcelain to Japanese lacquer, but all share the same case style despite the diversity in dials. In contrast, the Presage 110th Anniversary is refreshingly different and unique within the Presage line-up. Not only is the case executed in the style of an early 20th century watch, it is also more compact than the typical Presage, measuring at 37.5 mm in diameter instead of the usual 40.5 mm. That said, the new Presage is still fairly thick at over 12 mm high as a consequence of the movement inside. Both the case design and dimensions give it a distinctly different look and feel from past Presage models. This means the anniversary edition has appeal even for someone who already owns a past Presage model. And as expected for Seiko, the Presage 110th Anniversary is solid value with a retail price of about US$2,000. The 1913 Laurel in the Seiko Museum Retro styling Entirely polished and stainless steel, the case of t...

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Go modern vintage with the Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic 3/6/9 Time+Tide
Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic 3/6/9 There Dec 7, 2022

Go modern vintage with the Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic 3/6/9

There is a strong allure to the simple time-only watch. Without all the complications to distract us, these watches instead rely heavily on their design. And more than anything, the design of a watch is what stays with us the longest. Just think about it. History is littered with such enthralling references; from the Panerai … ContinuedThe post Go modern vintage with the Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic 3/6/9 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph offers retro vibes with grab-and-go convenience Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph Dec 7, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph offers retro vibes with grab-and-go convenience

Seiko has a long history in chronographs, including their first manually wound model from 1964, and the iconic 6139 – the first automatic chrono to hit the market in 1969. That was also the year of the world’s first quartz watch, the Seiko Astron. Naturally, the brands have therefore had a lot of experience producing … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph offers retro vibes with grab-and-go convenience appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Bulgari By Gérald Genta Octo Quadri-Retro Chronograph From 2011: Embodying The Past And A Possible Future Of A Once Imperious Haute Horlogerie Leader Quill & Pad
Bulgari Dec 6, 2022

Bulgari By Gérald Genta Octo Quadri-Retro Chronograph From 2011: Embodying The Past And A Possible Future Of A Once Imperious Haute Horlogerie Leader

The Bulgari by Gérald Genta Octo Quadri-Retro Chronograph features four retrograde displays and a jumping hour. Even more than its distinctive shape, the Octo Quadri-Retro’s strongest link to its Genta past is the crossfire of snapdragon displays on its sectored face. Tim Mosso dissects the history of this brand using the quirks of this uber-interesting timepiece.

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HANDS-ON: Baume & Mercier take us to the moon with the Riviera Phases de Lune Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Dec 3, 2022

HANDS-ON: Baume & Mercier take us to the moon with the Riviera Phases de Lune

The Baume and Mercier Riviera is fast becoming one of my favourite integrated sports watches. In a sea of watches that have recently jumped on the bandwagon, the Riviera has a ton of history behind it. They first hit the scene in all their quartz glory back in 1973 and, in nearly 50 years, have … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Baume & Mercier take us to the moon with the Riviera Phases de Lune appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar IW344601 and IW344602 Time+Tide
IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar IW344601 Nov 23, 2022

HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar IW344601 and IW344602

Most people associate IWC with pilot’s watches, which makes total sense due to their rich aviation history and classics like the Mark and Big Pilot series. But with their Portugieser and Portofino collections, IWC prove they still know how to appeal to dressier sensibilities. The latest duo of Portofino watches, the IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar IW344601 and IW344602 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: Flame to please with the Oris Coulson Limited Edition Time+Tide
Oris Coulson Limited Edition Oris Nov 23, 2022

INTRODUCING: Flame to please with the Oris Coulson Limited Edition

Oris has a long history at the forefront of environmental issues, releasing a continuous series of limited editions to benefit causes from ocean reef health to pollution. Their newest release continues the tradition. The 1,000-piece Oris Coulson Limited Edition is designed to bring awareness to the very real problem of wildfires (or bushfires in Australia), … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Flame to please with the Oris Coulson Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Fiona Krüger Vanitas: A Skull Clock That Yawns To Indicate Becoming Tired And Needing More Energy – Reprise Quill & Pad
Oct 29, 2022

Fiona Krüger Vanitas: A Skull Clock That Yawns To Indicate Becoming Tired And Needing More Energy – Reprise

The skull is one of art history’s most referenced objects thanks to its powerful ability to instantly remind us that we are only flesh and bone. Fiona Krüger, specializing in skulls, partnered with L’Epée 1839 to produce Vanitas, a skull-shaped clock based on her Skull Collection with an unexpected function: it yawns as its movement tires.

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MICRO MONDAYS: The GANE Type D is deceptively simple yet utterly distinctive Time+Tide
Oct 24, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The GANE Type D is deceptively simple yet utterly distinctive

Designing a new watch from the ground up is always going to be a difficult task, given that there’s over a century’s worth of designs with which to compete. One way of approaching this challenge is to draw inspiration from an external source, whether that’s from nature, history, industry, or whatever really. For Ray Pee, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The GANE Type D is deceptively simple yet utterly distinctive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The new Hamilton Railroad Pocket embodies an American tradition Time+Tide
Hamilton Railroad Pocket embodies Oct 20, 2022

The new Hamilton Railroad Pocket embodies an American tradition

Hamilton’s history is a rich one. After taking over existing manufacturing facilities in Pennsylvania and establishing the Hamilton Watch Company in 1892, the brand was first focused on producing accurate railroad pocket watches, before shifting production to wristwatches after WWI, eventually only producing military watches during WWII. The new Hamilton Railroad Pocket watch focuses on … ContinuedThe post The new Hamilton Railroad Pocket embodies an American tradition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Tissot’s new Telemeter 1938 brings vintage style to a thoroughly modern chronograph Time+Tide
Tissot s new Telemeter 1938 Oct 16, 2022

Tissot’s new Telemeter 1938 brings vintage style to a thoroughly modern chronograph

Swiss watchmaker Tissot has been the name on everyone’s lips recently since the release of their category-disrupting integrated bracelet juggernaut, the ’70s-tastic PRX. But the brand’s horological history does, of course, go back more than 150 years, all the way to 1853. A page from their rich back catalogue serves as inspiration for their elegant … ContinuedThe post Tissot’s new Telemeter 1938 brings vintage style to a thoroughly modern chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Tissot Telemeter 1938 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Oct 14, 2022

Tissot Telemeter 1938 Review

The Tissot Telemeter 1938, which joined the Swiss brand's vintage-influenced Heritage collection in summer 2022, has garnered enthusiasts' attention with its charmingly retro design, optimized chronograph movement, and enticing price-to-value ratio. We had a chance to go hands-on with both versions of the Tissot Telemeter 1938; read on for the results from our in-depth review. Overview and History By just about any historical standard, 1938 was generally a pretty dark year, marked by the lingering economic woes of the Great Depression, the violence of Kristallnacht, and the slow march to war in Europe, with Germany annexing Austria and partitioning Czechoslovakia in the ill-fated Munich pact. One of the few areas in which forward-thinking creativity and energetic optimism still prevailed in that pre-war era was the world of art and design, which was still showing the influence of the Art Deco movement that had taken root in the 1920s. Wristwatches, which had largely supplanted pocket watches as the go-to portable timekeepers for both civilian and military use, displayed this enduring design ethos while also often incorporating a useful array of functions geared toward the timing of the era’s popular sporting events, many of which involved racing - on horseback, in automobiles, and on skis. Tissot, founded in 1853 in the Swiss Jura, was one of the watchmakers that specialized in making these sport-timing instruments. One of the company’s earliest forays as an offic...

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In-Depth I: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko  Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 Oct 13, 2022

In-Depth I: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003

The first complicated mechanical watch from the brand in its six decades years of history, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 is an impressive example of high horology. The Kodo is self-explanatory: it is equipped with a highly skeletonised and sensitively finished movement boasting a one-second remontoir and tourbillon, both mounted on the same axis. The Kodo is an interesting watch in all respects, tangible and intangible, making it worth a detailed examination – exactly the focus of this two-part series. In this first instalment, we explain the development and conception of the Kodo, as well as the decoration of its movement. In the second part that will be published subsequently, we detail how the movement works and analyse how it compares to the competition. A surprise Evolved from the T0 concept movement unveiled just two years ago, the Kodo is undoubtedly a milestone – and a major step upwards – for the Japanese watchmaker that’s historically been focused on simple but high-quality everyday watches. Like conventional Grand Seiko (GS) watches, the Kodo is all about high-quality timekeeping, but it is far from simple. An example of a typical Grand Seiko, which is strikingly different from the Kodo, yet not so different in terms of philosophy Well known for its quest for high precision – amongst its earliest timepieces were observatory-tested chronometers – GS has done much research and development in the cutting-edge timekeeping techn...

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TAG Heuer Introduces the Formula 1 X Mario Kart SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Oct 13, 2022

TAG Heuer Introduces the Formula 1 X Mario Kart

With a near-unparalleled history in auto racing, TAG Heuer’s latest is a light-hearted take on its storied past. Inspired by the famous plumber now driving a go-kart, the Formula 1 X Mario Kart pair are both limited-edition chronographs, each opposing ends of the price spectrum. The base model is the Formula 1 X Mario Kart Chronograph with an “Easter egg” date display, while the top-of-the-line model is a variant of TAG Heuer’s tourbillon-chronograph with the COSC-certified Calibre Heuer 02T movement. Initial thoughts Pop culture adds levity to mechanical watchmaking and usually enhances the appeal, which is why the approach is a familiar one. Gerald Genta did it, and more recently RJ-Romain Jerome. TAG Heuer did it for the first time last year with the Connected × Super Mario that sold out swiftly, proving the appeal of the Italian plumber. But the Connected was a smartwatch, while the pair of new releases are both mechanical, so they have appeal for watch enthusiasts. The Formula 1 Chronograph is basic but affordable, and livened up by subtle-but-clever Mario elements, like a date display with symbols from the game instead of numerals. The Formula 1 chronograph The tourbillon, on the other hand, is essentially an amusingly whimsical iteration of TAG Heuer’s standard tourbillon-chronograph, while not costing that much more, making it a more compelling proposition than the somewhat plain regular-production model. Mario around the track Inspired by the Nintendo...

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