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In-Depth: Why Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker Selfie is a Dead-Serious Watch SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Urwerk Sep 24, 2019

In-Depth: Why Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker Selfie is a Dead-Serious Watch

Self-taught Russian clock- and watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin, who has built notably complex timepieces, is ironically best known for the Joker, a relatively simple watch. The Joker is powered by an ETA 2814 base movement with an in-house module of just 61 parts that drives the novel time display: two sub-dials, positioned like eyes in a face, for hours respectively minutes, and a moon phase at six o’clock resembling a smiling mouth – the funny face of time. When first unveiled the inaugural Joker in steel at Baselworld 2017, the 99-piece limited edition sold out quickly. The watch also enjoyed critical acclaim; the subsequent Joker Clown won the Audacity Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve 2018. Konstantin notes he was particularly surprised how eagerly the love-or-hate design was embraced by collectors of high-end watches. So his extended the Joker concept to the top-end of the price spectrum, with the limited edition Joker automaton developed with fellow independent watchmaker Svend Andersen. And then Konstantin recently revealed he was participating in charity auction Only Watch 2019 – alongside peers like Akrivia, F.P. Journe, Urwerk and De Bethune – which piqued my interest, so I reached out to Konstantin to find out more. The Joker automaton by Andersen and Chaykin Inspiration strikes As Luc Pettavino, the founder of Only Watch, was planning the 2019 event, he approached Konstantin to suggest a straightforward variant of the origin...

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Patek Philippe Announces Singapore Grand Exhibition Catalogue SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Announces Singapore Grand Exhibition Sep 24, 2019

Patek Philippe Announces Singapore Grand Exhibition Catalogue

As Patek Phillippe’s 16-day Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore counts own to its opening this weekend, the watchmaker has revealed a limited edition, hardbound catalogue detailing the exhibition that will be available only at the event. A must-have for any horological library, the commemorative book includes every timepiece that will be on display at the exhibition, which is the largest to date. The tome encompasses a diversity of clocks, pocket and wristwatches spanning four centuries, from the world’s first wristwatch made for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary to some of the most complicated watches ever created – including the landmark Caliber 89 – as well as watches currently in production. The catalogue will also include the limited edition watches, clocks and pocket watches produced especially for the Singapore Grand Exhibition. The Calibre 89 Proceeds from the sale of the catalogue will benefit the National Museum of Singapore, the nation’s oldest museum. Funds raised will go towards boosting the museum’s programmes that preserve the arts and cultural heritage of the city state. Patek Philippe is no stranger to supporting the National Museum, as the catalogue donations follow its support of the redevelopment of the museum in 2015, the year of Singapore’s 50th anniversary since independence, with the creation of a unique Dome Clock that was sold at auction to fund renovation of the museum’s trademark glass rotunda. The Farquhar Coll...

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Looking back at Bulgari’s Gérald Genta 50th Anniversary Watch Time+Tide
Bulgari s Gérald Genta 50th Sep 23, 2019

Looking back at Bulgari’s Gérald Genta 50th Anniversary Watch

Editor’s note: I think it’s fairly safe to say that Gérald Charles Genta is the 20th century’s most notable designer of wristwatches. Many know the list of his accomplishments, but the sheer scope and impact of his unique and inspired design language is still sometimes difficult to grasp. Royal Oak, Nautilus, Constellation, Ingenieur, Golden Ellipse … ContinuedThe post Looking back at Bulgari’s Gérald Genta 50th Anniversary Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Franck Muller Vanguard Yachting Anchor Skeleton Time+Tide
Franck Muller Sep 23, 2019

The Franck Muller Vanguard Yachting Anchor Skeleton

Artisanal watchmakers Franck Muller have really taken it to the next level with their latest timepiece, the Franck Muller Vanguard Yachting Anchor Skeleton. Available in a range of different precious metals, including 18k yellow gold and 18k rose gold, the case of the prodigious new wristwatch measures an imposing 44mm and is 12.65mm thick. Housed … ContinuedThe post The Franck Muller Vanguard Yachting Anchor Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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De Bethune & Urwerk Introduce the Moon Satellite for Only Watch 2019 SJX Watches
De Bethune & Urwerk Introduce Sep 23, 2019

De Bethune & Urwerk Introduce the Moon Satellite for Only Watch 2019

When Urwerk cofounder Felix Baumgartner was in town recently to launch the UR-100 SpaceTime, I quizzed him on the De Bethune and Urwerk collaboration for Only Watch 2019. While the other brands taking part in the charity auction had already unveiled photos or renderings of their respective creations, Urwerk and De Bethune only offered a pen drawing. Felix replied that the movement had been completed and delivered to De Bethune some weeks ago, and Denis Flageollet, De Bethune’s resident technical genius, was working on building the one-off titanium case. And now Mr Flageollet has completed the watch, and this is it. The initial drawing The meeting of minds Named the Moon Satellite, the watch is essentially an Urwerk wandering hours time display module – with the time indicated on satellites – mounted on top of a hand-wound De Bethune movement, resulting in the cal. DBUR2105. Visually the movement is trademark De Bethune. The calibre has a delta-shaped barrel bridge that is entirely mirror polished, as is the base plate, one of the most distinctive movement treatments of De Bethune. And in striking contrast against the polished surfaces, the balance and shock absorber bridges are in blued steel. The base movement cal. DB2105 boasts several of De Bethune’s patented innovations, including a spider-like titanium balance wheel, the triple pare-chute shock absorber for the balance, as well as the De Bethune hairspring and silicon escape wheel. And it also incorporat...

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The Mysterious Rolex Daytona Zenith “Luna Rossa” at Sotheby’s SJX Watches
Zenith Luna Rossa” Sep 23, 2019

The Mysterious Rolex Daytona Zenith “Luna Rossa” at Sotheby’s

The most talked-about watch at Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches auction in Hong Kong is lot 2300, a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona powered by a Zenith El Primero movement that’s described as “a possibly unique… chronograph wristwatch with a red dial”. And as with all high-profile watches, the auctioneers have given the watch an Italian nickname, “Luna Rossa”, which translates as “red moon”. The reason the “Luna Rossa” is controversial is because such a red dial has never ever been seen before. Usually unicorns are known and whispered about, even if seldom seen, but the “Luna Rossa” has surprised everyone. Experts and insiders I approached have neither encountered nor heard of such a dial, which makes it quite a revelation. But they all agree it is correct – in the sense that all elements are identical to known Rolex dials of the period – though of unknown origin. Sotheby’s itself hasn’t provided much background about the watch, either officially or unofficially. Unlike the unique platinum Daytona “Zenith” that Sotheby’s sold last year, setting a record price for a modern Daytona, which had a backstory that was I managed to uncover, the “Luna Rossa” remains a mystery. The dial is glossy red lacquer, with gold indices and sub-dials When such unusual dials emerge, the immediate question is one of authenticity. The “Luna Rossa” passes the test – the dial is correct in its details. The element usually regarded as crucia...

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Rediscovering the Rado HyperChrome Ultra Light Time+Tide
Rado HyperChrome Ultra Light Editor’s Sep 22, 2019

Rediscovering the Rado HyperChrome Ultra Light

Editor’s note: With weather more conducive to anything other than complete hibernation finally starting to creep back into our lives Down Under, it’s got everyone here in the office talking about what watch you should be wearing when the board shorts, bikinis and budgie smugglers come out. Now, we’ve already covered what we think will … ContinuedThe post Rediscovering the Rado HyperChrome Ultra Light appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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New MIH Gaïa Series I Watch: Surprising In Its Use Of Brutalist Design Quill & Pad
Sep 21, 2019

New MIH Gaïa Series I Watch: Surprising In Its Use Of Brutalist Design

The Musée International d’Horlogerie announces a new MIH watch, called into existence to help finance ongoing museum projects as well as raise public awareness for safeguarding horological heritage and to promote the expertise of regional watchmakers. This surprising timepiece takes its direct inspiration from the museum building itself, a product of Brutalist architecture.

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INTRODUCING: The Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TB Time+Tide
Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TB It seems Sep 21, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TB

It seems like every other week there’s a new Casio being unleashed upon the wristwatch-wearing world. And this week is no different, as the Japanese marque has just released this - the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TB. That’s right, there’s now another 5000-series vying for the attention of all you digital devotees out there, and this one’s … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TB appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The Richard Mille RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen Time+Tide
Richard Mille RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen Sep 21, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Richard Mille RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen

Horological heavyweight Richard Mille has just unveiled their latest limited edition masterpiece, the Richard Mille RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen, and there’s only one thing we can say … Bwoah! In typical fashion only to be expected of Richard Mille, the RM 50-04 is an incredibly complicated and quite frankly wonderful timepiece, designed for the one … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Richard Mille RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Richard Mille Introduces the RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen SJX Watches
Richard Mille Introduces Sep 21, 2019

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen

As complications go, the RM 50 is the ultimate Richard Mille, combining a tourbillon and split-seconds chronograph. Descended from the RM008 of 2003, one of the brand’s foundational models, the top of the line complication now has now been dressed up in new livery for Finnish Formula 1 driver Kimi Räikkönen, who drives for the Alfa Romeo Racing Team. Launched at the start of the 2019 Singapore Grand Prix, the RM 50-04 Tourbillon Split-Seconds Chronograph Kimi Räikkönen is large, lightweight, and complex, and dressed in a red, white and black colour combination that’s the same as the livery on the Alfa Romeo C38 Formula 1 car. Kimi Räikkönen Though it’s a mass of details and colours, the dial is actually easily to decipher. The two chronograph sub-dials are the six and nine o’clock. The fan-shaped indicator at 11 o’clock is the power reserve, and its mirror image to the right is the torque indicator. This indicates the level of wind in the mainspring, with the ideal being between 53Nmm and 65Nmm; “Nmm” is short for Newton millimetre. And at three o’clock is the power reserve display. Made of various lightweight carbon composites, the watch case is generously sized, like other top of the line Richard Mille complications – 44.5mm in diameter and 16.1mm high. The front and back plates are white Quartz TPT, while the middle is Carbon TPT. Both composites are made by North Thin Ply Technology (NTPT), a Swiss lightweight composite specialist that’s...

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Our Predictions In The Men’s Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): A Split Decision Quill & Pad
Sep 20, 2019

Our Predictions In The Men’s Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): A Split Decision

The GPHG foundation describes the Men’s category for watches entered into the 2019 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève as containing indications for only hours, minutes, seconds, simple date, power reserve, and classic moon phase. Here our panelists select their favorites from the six shortlisted watches, and the reactions are quite mixed.

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Ophion Introduces the OPH 786 Vélos SJX Watches
Breguet numerals Sep 20, 2019

Ophion Introduces the OPH 786 Vélos

Ophion is a Spanish brand offering Swiss-made watches with a particular speciality: traditionally-styled movement and dial decoration done by machine, resulting in a modest price. The new OPH 786 Vélos sticks to the same formula, but takes it to a new level by increasing the degree of machine-executed decoration on the dial to create an appealing style while retaining the accessible pricing. And the resulting look is also reminiscent of the work of far more expensive independent watchmakers like Thomas Prescher and Voutilainen. Two dials are offered: the simpler, and less expensive, one being a metallic finish and concentric brushing matched with nickel-plated hands. And the fancier option is an elaborate basket-weave guilloche engraved by a CNC milling machine, combined with either nickel-plated or heat-blued hands. Both dial finished have the same construction featuring an applied minute track and inner ring, and also large applied Breguet numerals. The inner ring has a wide inner bevel that is once again cut by machine. The 39mm watch case features bulbous, teardrop lugs that are each produced individually, and then welded to the case – an unusually elaborate construction at this price point. And it’s worth pointing out the case is made by Voutilainen & Cattin, the case maker owned by Voutilainen. Inside is the same calibre found in earlier Ophion models. Made by Soprod, it’s hand-wound with a five-day power reserve. The movement layout was customised for Ophion...

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VIDEO: Travel in style with Grand Seiko’s SBGE201  Time+Tide
Grand Seiko s SBGE201  Sep 19, 2019

VIDEO: Travel in style with Grand Seiko’s SBGE201 

The travel watch is one of the classic tropes in the world of watch design - and as with all recurring themes, the travel watch is a broad spectrum, ranging from rough and ready all the way up to the private jets and mega-yachts version of travelling in style. The Grand Seiko SBGE201 treads a … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Travel in style with Grand Seiko’s SBGE201  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Review WatchAdvice
Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Sep 19, 2019

Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Review

Late 2018 saw Breitling update their range with the release of new models. The arrival of Georges Kern as the CEO of Breitling gave the brand a revived outlook. He is focusing on meeting the expectations of the brand’s two primary consumers. The customers who prefer masculine and technology inspired watches and customers that prefer Breitling’s extended history and their vintage designs. The Breitling Premier collection released in 2018 as part of Georges Kern’s product portfolio falls into the revamped vintage category. The outcome is that the brand delivers timepieces that combine purpose, style, quality while keeping to a timeless design.  As quoted by Georges Kern, the Premier Collection is “the first modern Breitling collection dedicated to everyday elegance. With outstanding quality and performance, these watches bear our unmistakable brand DNA, but has been created with a focus on style that beautifully complements their purpose“.  The Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 is certainly a watch that stands true to this statement. The Premier B01 Chronograph 42 is a modern take on the vintage piece released initially in the 1940’s; the Breitling Premier Chronograph reference 790. Back when the Breitling Premier Chronograph reference 790 was released, several countries worldwide were involved in World War II. During this period in history, people would look to the golden age of cinema and other forms of entertainment to escape from the realities of World ...

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G-Shock Introduces the 5000 Series in Full Titanium SJX Watches
Casio debuted Sep 19, 2019

G-Shock Introduces the 5000 Series in Full Titanium

A year after Casio debuted the G-Shock “Full Metal” in stainless steel with a matching bracelet – and the whopper in solid 18k yellow gold – it has announced the G-Shock 5000 Series in titanium. The new launch is not a limited edition per se, but will only be produced for a limited time. Like last year’s “Full Metal” edition, the G-Shock GMW-B5000TB takes its cues from the original G-Shock DW5000 of 1983, but in matte black titanium with gold accents. But more intriguingly, the titanium case and bracelet are coated with diamond-like carbon (DLC) that has a granular finish meant to mimic the look of the rubber case of the standard G-Shock. The use of titanium means the new G-Shock is significantly lighter than the steel equivalent, weighing just 110g – a third less than the G-Shock “Full Metal”. And the G-Shock in titanium has a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating, an upgrade over the mineral glass found on the steel version. Function-wise the G-Shock titanium edition is identical to the steel model. It’s solar-powered and incorporates a world time, stopwatch and alarm, as well as Bluetooth connectivity to a smartphone with the G-Shock app. An additional all-titanium G-Shock with a laser-engraved camouflage motif, the model GMW-B5000TCM-1, has been leaked online, but not yet announced officially. It will likely be launched later in the year. Key facts Diameter: 43.2mm Height: 13mm Material: Titanium with DLC coating Water resistance:...

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VIDEO: 3 watches that prove Montblanc’s Heritage collection is looking to the future  Time+Tide
Montblanc s Heritage collection Sep 18, 2019

VIDEO: 3 watches that prove Montblanc’s Heritage collection is looking to the future 

Ever since Davide Cerrato took the helm at Montblanc’s watch department, it’s as if the turbo-booster was suddenly turned on. The watches, which were solid before, now have a clarity and a cohesion that makes them a strong option and a force to be reckoned with. Case in point, their 2019 heritage releases …  The … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: 3 watches that prove Montblanc’s Heritage collection is looking to the future  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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