Hodinkee
Watch Spotting: Princess Diana Wearing Two Pateks At Once (1983)
Jolly good show. The royals offer a round of applause for our '80s Week edition of Watch Spotting.
Results for Equation of Time
34,842 articles · 157 videos found · page 977 of 1167
Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: Understanding Nautilus Madness (With Some Help From Thierry Stern, Himself)
Green dials, steel bracelets, and the weird confluence of legacy and hype.
Deployant
New: Cédric Johner re-issues the Abyss
Cédric Johner celebrates his 30th anniversary as an independent artisan with the reissue of his iconic watch: the Abyss model.
Revolution
Classicism & Innovation at 3 Michelin Star Les Amis & Chopard L.U.C
Revolution returns to 3 Michelin Star rated Les Amis, where Chef Sebastien Lepinoy discusses his process with Wei Koh and shares some parallels he’s obversed with the watchmaking of Chopard L.U.C.
SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF
First introduced in 2012 in the L.U.C 8HF, Chopard’s proprietary escapement was notable for being ultra-high frequency, running at twice the speed of a conventional escapement, and also one of the first such escapements to make it to serial production. But whatever the merits, the brand’s past high-frequency watches were a mixed bag in terms of design, and for that reason the brand’s technical accomplishment never gained the recognition it deserved. But now the 8 Hz escapement finally arrives in an appealing package, the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF. Initial thoughts The new Alpine Eagle is an unusual combination of a luxury-sports watch and an interesting movement with a novel escapement that runs at twice the normal speed. Like the standard version of the Alpine Eagle, the Cadence 8HF is finished to an impressively high level on the case and bracelet. That’s especially more impressive given that it’s entirely titanium, instead of steel. The design does come in for some minor criticism – the polished centre links of the bracelet are too narrow – but it is still good looking. And the Cadence 8HF has a cleaned up dial, which adds to the appeal. While impressive technically, the movement isn’t too much to look at, since the finishing is workmanlike and monochromatic. That said, the movement’s aesthetics suit the style (and price) of the watch perfectly. The Cadence 8HF is almost 50% more expensive than the regular model in steel – but it’s worth the stretc...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater Limited Edition
If you were to ask me what my favorite complication in watchmaking is, my answer would undoubtedly be the minute repeater. For me, fine watchmaking is about looking into the past and, while a completely unnecessary functionality in the modern world, there is an everlasting charm about a watch that can chime the time. Born … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
FOR SALE: Two Ultra-Rare Rolex Deep Sea Specials
Battle of the auction houses.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Realises a Connoisseur’s Exquisite Vision
Eight years in the making, the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Westminster Sonnerie – Tribute to Johannes Vermeer is a masterpiece in the truest sense of the word. Reflecting the owner’s taste that is inclined towards the subtle, elegant, and artisanal, the watch is seemingly simple on the front, yet intricately decorated on its circumference and immensely complicated within. But the true art of the watch sits on the hinged case back, which bears a magnificent miniature enamel painting by Anita Porchet that reproduces Vermeer’s ethereal Girl with a Pearl Earring. The idea for this uber pocket watch was first mooted by the owner in 2012, before being formally commissioned in 2013 during the Watches & Wonders fair in Hong Kong. Asked about his motivation in commissioning the watch – and waiting nearly a decade – the owner says, “I wanted to have a watch made, cost-and-time-no-object, that incorporated the ultimate in art – miniature enamel by the greatest practicing enameller – with the most difficult and sublime complication, the true Westminster sonnerie – and that alone – not counting the tourbillon escapement, which to me isn’t a complication.” “No such watch existed prior in the history of watchmaking,” he adds, “The watch came out more magnificent and monumental than I had imagined.” And that pretty much sums up the Vermeer pocket watch, which is unquestionably one of the greatest creations ever to emerge from Les Cabinotiers, a wo...
SJX Watches
One Hundred and Eighty Days with the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin
A. Lange & Söhne introduced the Saxonia Thin 37 at SIHH 2016 as the entry-level model in its collection. But “entry level” is relative at Lange, a brand that famously applies the same rigorous standards of production and finishing to all its watches, from the Saxonia Thin to the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar that retails for more than US$300,000. For the purpose of this review, I will put this reputation to the test by examining each element of the watch in detail, and share my impressions of the ownership experience. Glashüttenomics Though owned by Swiss luxury conglomerate Richemont – which owns over two dozen brands including Cartier, IWC, and Panerai – Lange remains a boutique outfit with an annual output of about 4,500 watches, and a maximum production capacity of about 5,500 watches. This is a fraction of competitors like Audemars Piguet at about 45,000 watches per year, and Patek Philippe, where the figure is over 60,000. While production volume is small, Lange is the largest employer in Glashütte, a small town with a population of about 8,000. Lange employs about 600 people at its Glashütte campus, though some commute in from the surrounding region, including the city of Dresden. This headcount is primarily devoted to watchmaking, since Lange relocated its marketing department to Berlin in 2017. For comparison, Glashütte Original has a similar number of employees in Glashütte, while producing about 13,000 watches per year, or about three ti...
Hodinkee
Recommended Reading: Ben Clymer And Eneuri Acosta Talk Watch Collecting And Porsches
Why do timeless watches and iconic cars draw in many of the same people?
Quill & Pad
Ulysse Nardin UFO Clock: Not Your Typical UFO Sighting, But It Quite Literally ROCKS!
The Ulysse Nardin UFO clock was inspired by historical marine chronometers as well as the movement of the waves and tides. It is a gorgeous mechanical creation showcasing the creativity of Ulysse Nardin and its willingness to push the bounds of what is expected. Joshua Munchow takes a closer look without getting too seasick.
Deployant
What Watches To Buy If You Worked For Axe Capital in Billions?
As we are catching the latest episodes of Showtime's Billions, we had a thought: What will we actually buy, as watch collectors, if we had such wealth?
Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: Consider The Mainspring
That time Jack reflected on that most important, and seldom discussed, part in watchmaking.
Quill & Pad
Split Decision, The Sequel: Patek Philippe Reference 5370P vs. A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold Chronographs: An Owner’s Perspective
For reasons GaryG still doesn’t fully understand, he has long been drawn to chronographs. One nice thing he finds about comparing the Patek Philippe Reference 5370 against the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold Homage to F.A. Lange is that it’s a fair fight between two purpose-built single rattrapante chronographs of classical construction. Here he puts them head to head.
SJX Watches
Highlights: F. P. Journe at the Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction
F.P. Journe has swiftly become one of the most desirable independent watch brands, resulting in an ever growing selection on offer at auction. Perhaps the biggest single offering to date comes by way of Sotheby’s, which has amassed a 13-piece lineup of F.P. Journe watches for its upcoming Important Watches sale that takes place in Hong Kong on October 13, 2021. We round up eight of the most notable, a selection that naturally includes a Tourbillon Souverain “Souscription”, as well as several limited editions, ranging from Ruthenium to a Tokyo-boutique special. The full catalogue and registration to bid are available on Sothebys.com. Lot 2085: Octa Réserve de Marche with brass movement Originally the entry-level model for the brand, the Octa Réserve de Marche is today a stealth watch of sorts since it is still a simple watch, but an unusually valuable one. Launched in 2001, the Octa Réserve was part of the original trio of watches launched by Francois-Paul Journe, coming after the tourbillon and Resonance. Despite being the brand’s entry-level wristwatch at the time, it still boasted a proprietary movement with an impressive five-day power reserve, though the running time was originally envision was eight days, hence the “Octa” moniker. The cal. 1300 developed for the Octa Réserve would then go on to be the base movement for the entire Octa collection. The best part of the Octa Reserve is its asymmetric dial. Showing the time, date and power reserve, the d...
Quill & Pad
3 Vintage-Inspired Pilot’s Watches For The Serious (And Less Serious) Aviator From Patek Philippe, Zenith, And Breitling - Reprise
Pilot’s watches rank among the most successful of all watch genres, owing their strong popularity to an unmistakable design with an instrument-like look resulting from over 100 years of history as a technical aid in the cockpit. Modern pilot’s watches still exude this spirit of adventure and audacity, and here are three prime examples from 2018.
Deployant
Hasselblad 907X 50C Review: Part 3/3 - the discussion on image quality with sample photos
This is our concluding episode of the series on the Hasselblad 907X II 50C. We present sample images, and discuss image quality and draw our conclusions.
SJX Watches
Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Chronoscope
The latest from Omega is a surprise: a Speedmaster powered by a new, manual-wind calibre but fitted with a retro-inspired, multi-scale dial. Equipped with the full-spec cal. 9908, the Speedmaster Chronoscope is a 43 mm chronograph with a dial bearing three sets of measurement scales: tachymeter, telemeter, and pulsometer. While the multi-scale dial is modelled on vintage Omega chronographs of the 1940s, the case is classic Speedmaster with its characteristic “twisted” or “lyre” lugs. Initial thoughts The Chronoscope is essentially combines well-known chronographs from two disparate periods in Omega’s history: the multi-scale dial typically associated with the vintage CK 2393 powered by the cal. 33.3 from the 1940s, plus the Speeedmaster case that is a 1960s design. But it is distinctly 21st century in mechanics with the new cal. 9908 inside. While any one of those might be appeal on their own, together they don’t work well. The Speedmaster case design is about three decades older than the multi-scale so it feels incongruent. To be fair, the dial looks to be well executed with good detail and design. The portions of the dial look good and the applied numerals are a nice touch. And pricing is fair as well. But despite the appeal of the individual elements, the whole is less than the sum of the parts. Still, the design makes sense from a broader, commercial perspective since it adds a new look to the stable of designs for the Speedmaster, which is one of Omega...
Revolution
Bold & Beautiful: Bvlgari’s Impossibly Thin Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar
For the past seven years since 2014, Bvlgari has made the world sit up and take notice of the Octo Finissimo. Breaking a record every year, the collection presents this year yet another horological triumph, an impossibly thin double retrograde perpetual calendar.
Deployant
New: Ikepod Seapod
Ikepod revisits their first diver watch - the Seaslug, and introduces the next generation of their diver watches - introducing the Ikepod Seapod.
Hodinkee
How To Avoid Watch Knockoffs
It happens to the best of us.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic Chronograph
Hamilton takes things up a notch by revamping the Khaki Field Automatic Chronograph with the newer look and feel of the Khaki Field Mechanical. This brings us to the new Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic Chronograph-a badass military-style chrono with a fully sand-blasted case on a bund strap.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Citizen Series 8 Automatic
I was impressed by the Caliber 0200 that Citizen unveiled earlier in the year. A new design with an integrated bracelet and an automatic movement developed from scratch, the Caliber 0200 costs US$6,000 – more than the typical Citizen – it is unquestionably a value proposition. The level of fit and finish, especially on the case and bracelet, surpasses practically everything else at that price. Still, US$6,000 is not affordable for everyone. Citizen soon followed up with the Series 8, a line of watches similar to the Caliber 0200 in style but far more accessible price-wise, with the base model starting at US$1,200. Like the Caliber 0200, the Series 8 outperforms in its far lower price segment. The Series 8 is made up of three models – 830, 831, and 870 – but the standout is the 870, the watch pictured below. Citizen loaned me one for a few days, an experience that confirmed my initial impressions. Initial thoughts The Series 8 watches are all excellent at their respective price points, but the 870 impressed me the most – it’s the most expensive but paradoxically the best value. Admittedly, the 870 is yet another sports watch with an integrated bracelet. The familiarity of the concept makes it more difficult for a new entrant to succeed. One benchmark for success in this category is design – the watch has to look good while avoiding being derivative. And another is competitive pricing, since most fresh arrivals in the space can’t compete with the establishm...
Deployant
New: Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moon in bronze and gold dial
Linde Werdelin celebrates the mid-autumn festival with the new Oktopus Moon in bronze and gold dial. Limited Edition of 59 pieces.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Limited Editions “Everest”
Today is a neat day for the watch community, and especially for VIP Vacheron Constantin collectors. When I received this press release, I had to pinch myself to see if I was dreaming. Fortunately I wasn’t. When Vacheron Constantin first debuted their prototype Overseas, made for adventurer and photographer Cory Richards to wear on his … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Limited Editions “Everest” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Episode 86: Gary Shteyngart & Danny's Talking Watches Highlights
A few favorite moments, a couple of new watches, and some inspiration for adventure.
Deployant
Review: the new IWC Pilot’s Chronograph Blue Angels®
IWC Schaffhausen has launched three new chronographs in its Pilot’s Watches collection. The new ceramic models are collaborative timepieces that the brand created in the context of its military programme with squadrons of the U.S. Navy.
Quill & Pad
Batman Day: Check Out These 5 Watch Stories Involving The Dark Knight In One Way Or Another
Did you know that Batman Day is actually a thing? In honor of Batman Day on September 18, here are five stories Quill & Pad has done over the years invoking either the image or the name of one of DC Comics’ highest-grossing franchise characters: Batman!
SJX Watches
Highlights: IWC Big Pilots in Singapore
Fully booked before it even opened, the IWC Big Pilot Exhibition in Singapore recently closed its doors and the 31 Big Pilot’s Watches that were on show have returned home to the IWC Museum in Schaffhausen. But for those who missed the show, we round up some of the historically significant examples that were on displayed. The lineup naturally includes the very first Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 5002, and also the ultra-rare Markus Bühler “Turbine” ref. 5003. (And the Big Pilot Roadshow will happen in various cities in the United States starting September; details at the end of this article.) 2002 – Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 5002 The modern-day Big Pilot can be traced back to the gigantic beobachtungsuhr (or”B-uhr” for short) that IWC supplied to the German air force in 1940. The one that started it all was the Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 500201 (widely known as the ref. 5002) that debuted at Baselworld in 2002. Codenamed “Big Pilot’s Watch – Mark XXI” while in development, the Big Pilot was due in part to the commercial success of the compact Mark 12 pilot’s watch. At the same time, it was also devised as a platform for the recently-launched, seven-day automatic cal. 5000, a movement large enough that the resulting pilot’s watch had to be, well, big. And big it was, though the ref. 5002 was smaller than the second world war original that was 55 mm. Still it retained many of the elements that defined the vintage B-uhr – onion crown, Arabic numerals, ...
SJX Watches
Exhibition: Exquisite Pocket Watches in Singapore
A vintage watch dealer based in Singapore, 2ToneVintage is staging an exhibition that goes down a road less travelled in modern watch collecting – vintage pocket watches instead of the usual fare of wristwatches. The exhibition is open to the public from now till September 30, 2021, but registration is required due to venue capacity limits. Titled The Beginning, the show is made up of several dozen impressive specimens that represent the diversity of pocket watches, ranging from an Ilbery enamel for the Chinese market to a one-off Audemars Piguet grand complication to a Patek Philippe world time with a cloisonné dial. A timeline on the walls of the exhibition charts the development of watchmaking Most of the watches on show belong to Ali Nael, an oil trader who switched careers to found 2ToneVintage. Consequently, a good portion of the exhibition reflects his taste in timepieces – many of the timepieces are mid 20th century watches with elegant two-tone dials in champagne or pink gold. Examples from the early- to mid-20th century dominate the exhibition, with Patek Philippe being the most numerous. The watches largely fall into two categories: simple, time-only watches with delicate details or enamelling, and the highly complicated. Time-only The time-only examples include the Patek Philippe ref. 650 “Flying Saucer” – named after its wide, flat bezel – from 1937 that has a handsome. two-tone contrasting dial. And standing out against the classical style of ...