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INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Enamel Spring Drive  Time+Tide
Seiko Presage Enamel Spring Drive  Sep 2, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Enamel Spring Drive 

Presage has been something of a rising star in the Seiko firmament – a classically inspired, dressy collection that has proven to have broad appeal. These two new watches see the Seiko Presage powered by that most Seiko of technologies - the popular and silky smooth Spring Drive technology.  Already the pairing of Presage and precision … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Enamel Spring Drive  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: An in-depth look at one of the most important timepieces ever made  Time+Tide
Breguet commissioned Sep 2, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: An in-depth look at one of the most important timepieces ever made 

Much to the chagrin of watch brand marketing departments, the list of timepieces of genuine historical significance is pretty small. Actual moon watches, the Breguet commissioned with Marie Antoinette in mind, and, of course, the works of John Harrison.  Even if you’re not an aficionado of 18th century horological science (and TBH we don’t hold … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: An in-depth look at one of the most important timepieces ever made  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Introduces the Presage Spring Drive Enamel Dial SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Sep 2, 2019

Seiko Introduces the Presage Spring Drive Enamel Dial

Seiko has cultivated its Presage collection as one that offers watches featuring dials decorated with artisanal techniques like Shippo enamel or Arita porcelain, but at extremely affordable prices. Now Seiko has just rolled out the first-ever Presage watches powered by the brand’s best-known innovation – the Spring Drive, an electronically regulated mechanical movement previously only found in Credor, Grand Seiko and Prospex watches. And the Spring Drive has been combined with a decidedly more traditional face, with both new models featuring vitreous enamel dials. Available in either white or black, the enamel dials are once again produced by master craftsman Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team, who are adept at producing enamel dials of high-quality and in large quantities, but relatively low prices. The clean and slightly retro dial design, however, is the work of the design studio founded by Japanese industrial designer Riki Watanabe. After his death in 2013, the design of his work was entrusted to his colleague, who stuck closely to Watanabe’s ideals of functionality and beauty in the conception of the watch. The dial is characterised by a striking clarity thanks to the high contrast between the hands, hour markers and dial, as well as Arabic numerals in Didoni typeface, a favourite of Watanabe. Notably, the date is properly integrated into the dial design with a date wheel that matches the colour of the dial, while the combination of the contrasting...

In-Depth: The Microscopic Magic of H4, Harrison’s First Sea Watch SJX Watches
Sep 2, 2019

In-Depth: The Microscopic Magic of H4, Harrison’s First Sea Watch

One can understand the opacity of the first published analysis of John Harrison’s first sea watch, colloquially known as H4 and the forerunner of the marine chronometer, in The Principles of Mr Harrison’s Time-keeper. Edited by the British Astronomer Royal Nevil Maskelyne, it was published by the British government in 1767; and hereafter referred to as Principles. Principles was both incomplete of enough information to allow the duplication of the watch, which Harrison (1693-1776) started in 1755 and finished in 1759, and contained somewhat incoherent description that only makes sense a posteriori after examination of the watch. ‘Principles of Mr. Harrison’s Time-keeper’ Amazingly, it was one hundred years later the next review took place. I can echo Harrison M. Frodsham’s comments in his review in Horological Journal of May 1878 when he said, “Former explanations taken from Harrison’s description are necessarily unsatisfactory, as his was very obscure, probably purposely so.”  Although this may be dismissed as 19th Century gossip by some scholars, this may have arisen in part to protect any military advantage, given the importance of H4 to maritime navigation. Considering H4’s historical performance, it is odd that the otherwise comprehensive A Treatise on Modern Horology in Theory and Practice (2ndedition) by Claudius Saunier, published in 1887, barely mentions Harrison and certainly not H4’s technical content. Perhaps it was because it was so quic...

A watch for C-3PO – the Zodiac Astrographic Limited Edition Time+Tide
Zodiac Astrographic Limited Edition Sep 1, 2019

A watch for C-3PO – the Zodiac Astrographic Limited Edition

The recent anniversary of the moon landing saw my Instagram feed explode with Speedmaster wrist shots, and an overwhelming number of watch brands releasing special edition watches to commemorate the event. But when the new Zodiac Astrographic Limited Edition somehow beat the algorithm and made its way onto the top of my explore feed, I … ContinuedThe post A watch for C-3PO – the Zodiac Astrographic Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A dash of sporty fun with the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Chronograph Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Chronograph Aug 31, 2019

A dash of sporty fun with the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Chronograph

Editor’s note: Some watches you can’t get out of your head, and the fun and friendly TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Chronograph from 2018 is one such watch. We can’t get over those pops of colour! The story in a second: Classic Carrera. More colour. If you spend more than a few minutes in the … ContinuedThe post A dash of sporty fun with the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Material innovation in watchmaking – the new breed Time+Tide
Aug 31, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Material innovation in watchmaking – the new breed

If you’ve been paying attention to the wonderful world of watches for more than 15 minutes, you’ll have worked out that high-tech materials, often with fancy proprietary names, are a big deal. Isographs, Aeronith, Sedna gold, unobtanium and all the rest. This sort of fancy nomenclature is stock-in-trade of Swiss marketing departments, but it’s also … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Material innovation in watchmaking – the new breed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Quest For My Ultimate Fountain Pen Part 3: The Luxury Brand Period – Reprise Quill & Pad
Aug 31, 2019

The Quest For My Ultimate Fountain Pen Part 3: The Luxury Brand Period – Reprise

After obtaining a Delta Dolce Vita Oversized at the conclusion of his Italian period, Martin Green was a very happy man. The pen served him very well, and he was in love with the looks as well as the writing experience. And while Martin wasn't looking for a replacement pen, it happened anyway . . . with some very famous brands. Read the third part of his writing instrument odyssey here.

Business News: Laurent Ferrier’s Controlling Shareholder Takes Charge SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Aug 30, 2019

Business News: Laurent Ferrier’s Controlling Shareholder Takes Charge

Highly regarded for its classically finished timepieces, Laurent Ferrier has just announced a major change in its management – Francois Servanin, who owns most of the company, will be taking management control, alongside Laurent Ferrier and his son Christian. Though only being officially announced today, the news was made known to Laurent Ferrier retailers several weeks ago, with Mr Ferrier himself speaking to several to reassure them that it is a new beginning, with great things to come. An entrepreneur who made his fortune with Auverland, a maker of jeeps and armoured vehicles for the French military, Mr Servanin was an auto racer in the 1970s and 1980s, having competed at Le Mans. It was there that he met Mr Ferrier, himself a former racing driver. Mr Servanin bankrolled the founding of Laurent Ferrier, and has a majority stake in the company. Ferrier father and son – Laurent (left) and Christian The gorgeous Galet Tourbillon movement Taking over from outgoing chief executive Vanessa Monestel, Mr Servanin will be the fourth leader of the brand since it was founded in 2013. The management turnover at Laurent Ferrier has led to the brand losing some of the momentum its enjoyed in its early years, when it was a rising star of old school, Genevois watchmaking; Mr Ferrier had spent a large part of his career at Patek Philippe. Laurent Ferrier’s self-winding calibre Since its first two models – the Galet Tourbillon and Galet Micro-Rotor, both developed with the hel...

We tried to buy a watch at Bob Hawke’s estate auction, this is what happened Time+Tide
Aug 30, 2019

We tried to buy a watch at Bob Hawke’s estate auction, this is what happened

Bob Hawke’s estate auction offered a chance to reflect on a man known equally well for his capacity to skol a pint of beer in record time (he broke a beer drinking Guinness World Record in 1954) and being a past Prime Minister of Australia. The auction took place in a venue that could only … ContinuedThe post We tried to buy a watch at Bob Hawke’s estate auction, this is what happened appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The old-world charms of the Longines 1832 Moonphase Time+Tide
Longines 1832 Moonphase We’ve been Aug 29, 2019

The old-world charms of the Longines 1832 Moonphase

We’ve been having a bit of a lunar week with Longines this week - checking out their new Master Moonphase in the boutique and in our studio. And we thought we’d stick with the theme this Friday. Today we’re taking a closer look at the stylish, chic and generally handsome Longines 1832 Moonphase. If the Master … ContinuedThe post The old-world charms of the Longines 1832 Moonphase appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 4 - the St Exupéry collection Time+Tide
IWC Pilot’s family part 4 Aug 29, 2019

Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 4 - the St Exupéry collection

Ladies and gentlemen, we’ve begun our descent. Now that we’ve completed our overview of the Top Gun, Spitfire and Classic collections we’d ask you to stow your tray tables and please pay attention to the final instalment in our series – the IWC Pilot’s St Exupéry collection.  Now, IWC’s St Exupéry watches are named for … ContinuedThe post Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 4 - the St Exupéry collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Ulysse Nardin Freak X Carbonium Gold “The Hour Glass” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet De Bethune Aug 29, 2019

Hands-On: Ulysse Nardin Freak X Carbonium Gold “The Hour Glass”

Having unveiled commemorative editions from the likes of Audemars Piguet, De Bethune and Urwerk for its 40 years in business, Singapore watch retailer The Hour Glass continues the anniversary roll-out with the Ulysse Nardin Freak X Carbonium Gold. The watch is a variant of the entry-level but appealing Freak X, a remarkable exercise in simplicity and the most affordable version of the Freak to date. But importantly, it manages to be the base model without being a concession, and instead is more of an optimisation, offering a great deal of exotic watchmaking – it boasts the fanciest oscillator of any watch in this price segment – for little money as such things go. While the Freak X forgoes some characteristics of its avant-garde forebear, it is both technically clever and much more refined in design, offering an enhanced practicality by way of a smaller case, a traditional crown, an automatic movement, and most crucially, a high-performance silicon balance wheel – an innovation found only in one other Freak, the pricier Freak Vision. Streamlined mechanics Limited to 30 pieces, the Freak X for The Hour Glass combines a new case material – “Carbonium Gold” – with a striking champagne dial. In contrast to most Freak models that have dark dials, this Freak X has a face in a pale gold which gives it a greater presence on the wrist, but because of its matte, brushed finish, it isn’t loud and manages to be easily wearable. The only downside of t...

8 signs you should be wearing a Tudor Pelagos Time+Tide
Tudor Pelagos Editor’s note Aug 28, 2019

8 signs you should be wearing a Tudor Pelagos

Editor’s note: A little while ago we went off-script with our watch coverage, making a short, snappy series of videos that - in a decidedly tongue-in-cheek manner - aimed to assist you in your Tudor purchasing decision. Here’s our take on the archetypal Tudor Pelagos wearer. And if you’ve got a Pelagos on your wrist … ContinuedThe post 8 signs you should be wearing a Tudor Pelagos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Dual Window Perpetual Calendar Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Dual Aug 28, 2019

INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Dual Window Perpetual Calendar

If you’ll pardon the pun, Moser pioneered the development of elegant, perpetual calendars with their subtle Endeavour, which saw the month displayed using a short hand, mounted on the central pinion, and using the 12-hour markers as surrogates for the months of the year. Well, this model, the Pioneer Dual Window Perpetual Calendar, sees the brand … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Dual Window Perpetual Calendar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Two crowns, great watch – the Farer Aqua Compressor Hecla Time+Tide
Farer Aqua Compressor Hecla Editor’s Aug 28, 2019

Two crowns, great watch – the Farer Aqua Compressor Hecla

Editor’s note: Not everything in the watch world has to be same-samey. And the Farer Aqua Compressor Hecla is a great example of that. It’s got two crowns, a big, cushiony case and style for days. If left-of-centre is your thing, you’ll want to have a read of Andy’s review …  A parcel recently landed … ContinuedThe post Two crowns, great watch – the Farer Aqua Compressor Hecla appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines Introduces the Master Collection Moonphase SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Aug 28, 2019

Longines Introduces the Master Collection Moonphase

Longines’ Master Collection excels at entry-level complications that are affordably priced – last year’s annual calendar is a great buy – and the latest in the range is a moon phase and date. The Master Collection Moonphase is a watch that’s clear in what it wants to to. Aside from the time, it has a pointer date and moon indicators in a sub-dial at six, for a clean and symmetrical dial. The Master Collection Moonphase ref. L2.919.4.78.3 It’s powered by the L899 movement, an automatic based on the ETA A31.L91, which is an upgraded version of the common ETA 2892. The most obvious functional upgrade is the extended 64-hour power reserve, achieved in part by reducing the beat rate of the balance wheel from 4Hz to 3.5Hz. Like many other models in the Master Collection, the new moon phase is offered in two cases sizes – 40mm and 42mm – both in stainless steel. Dial options are silvered barleycorn guilloche, black barleycorn, or sun-ray brushed metallic blue. The smaller, 40mm case is also offered with brilliant-cut diamond hour markers on all dial styles. The Master Collection Moonphase 42mm The ref. L2.909.4.97.0 with diamond markers Key facts Diameter: 40mm or 42mm Material: Stainless steel Water resistance: 30m Movement: L899 Functions: Hours, minutes, second, moon phase and date Winding: Automatic Frequency: 25,200bph, or 3.5Hz Power reserve: 64 hours Strap: Leather strap or steel bracelet Price: US$2,350 for all versions, US$2,750 for the 40...

Hands-On: H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD “Raspberry” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Perpetual Aug 27, 2019

Hands-On: H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD “Raspberry”

Over the last couple of years, H. Moser & Cie has become well-known for its playful jabs at the industry’s foibles – see exhibit one – as well as its provocatively pared back “concept” watches that are completely devoid of indications and logos. But its latest release, the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD “Raspberry”, is a return to its roots – a visual revamp of its ingenious perpetual calendar with the added flourish of a gorgeous burgundy fume dial. The perpetual calendar was the watch that made collectors sit up and take notice of Moser when the name was revived in 2005. With a minimalist, sensible display and ingenious mechanics, it was developed with the help of Andreas Strehler, an independent watchmaker who often builds complications for other brands. Though it has been around for over a decade now, it remains one of the most advanced perpetual calendars both in terms of function and practicality. The “Raspberry” is a variant of the perpetual calendar sports watch first launched two years ago. The new Pioneer Perpetual Calendar “Raspberry” Raspberry fumé In contrast to the classical Endeavour Perpetual Calendar that has is not a sports watch, hence its 30m depth rating, the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD incorporates a screw-down crown and is water-resistant to 120m. The case is stainless steel, and like most Moser watches, is substantially sized, measuring 42.8mm wide but a relatively slim 11.3mm in height, excluding the domed crys...

Bronze brigade – the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph Time+Tide
Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph Aug 27, 2019

Bronze brigade – the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph

Editor’s note: It’s 2019 and bronze is here to stay. And I’ve got to say that, as far as trends go, this is one I can very much get behind. And while the combination of bronze case, heritage style and gradient dial is more common today than in the past, the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback … ContinuedThe post Bronze brigade – the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New moon – the Longines Master Moonphase Time+Tide
Longines Master Moonphase Aug 27, 2019

New moon – the Longines Master Moonphase

The Master collection has been a staple in Longines’ catalogue for some time, epitomising the sort of casual elegance for which the bramd is so well known. The latest member of this family - the Longines Master Moonphase - continues to offer the strong combination of timeless style and well-integrated small complications that we saw … ContinuedThe post New moon – the Longines Master Moonphase appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bremont S300 review WatchAdvice
Bremont S300 review I’ve been Aug 27, 2019

Bremont S300 review

I’ve been following British watch brand Bremont for five or six years now, and have been a fan of their work for various reasons. Earlier this year, I had the pleasure of attending their annual ‘Townhouse’ event in London, where they released the bulk of their new models. Overall the range for 2019 was quite strong, and their military-inspired collection was impressive – mainly because it was produced under a partnership with the British Military of Defense (MoD). This agreement allows Bremont to legitimately feature the signs, symbols and Heraldic badges of the MoD. Bremont are also the only luxury watch-maker with such permission, and we can only imagine the intricacies involved in securing such a partnership with the MoD. Today’s review is not that collection, and rather an update to the brands popular Supermarine collection. Specifically, the S300, which was released with a white dial after previously only being available with a black or blue dial. Not long after the S300 hit our shores, I was given the opportunity to spend a couple of weeks with one on loan, which was a great amount of time to get to know this watch and Bremont. The first thing that caught me was the refreshing white dial. It felt summery and worked really nicely with the accompanying polished blue bezel, which is unidirectional. The large Super-LumiNova filled hands make legibility a breeze, and are helped by the anti-reflective sapphire crystal, which has a nice dome to it. I noticed this ...