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Lange 1 A. Lange & Söhne

The 1994 watch that relaunched A. Lange & Söhne. Golden-ratio dial and outsize date.
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Zeitwerk A. Lange & Söhne

The 2009 mechanical jumping-digital wristwatch from A. Lange & Söhne. Hours and minutes on three discs.
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Datograph A. Lange & Söhne

The 1999 flyback chronograph from A. Lange & Söhne with the in-house Cal. L951.1 movement.
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Saxonia A. Lange & Söhne

One of the four founding references of the 1994 A. Lange & Söhne relaunch. Time-only Saxon classic.
Auction Watch: Patek Philippe Ref. 1252 “Chameleon” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie pocket watch May 12, 2023

Auction Watch: Patek Philippe Ref. 1252 “Chameleon”

The Geneva spring auction season kicks off soon and as expected, most of the weekend’s highlights are the usual timepieces from establishment brands and independent watchmakers, including one that is a mix of both, the Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie pocket watch made by Philippe Dufour. But one of the season’s most intriguing lot is altogether different – the Patek Philippe Ref. 1252 “Chameleon” that’ll go under the hammer at Antiquorum. Both intriguing and quirky, the ref. 1252 “Chameleon” is essentially a sculptural bracelet that happens to have a small, manual-wind movement installed. While such bracelet wristwatches are common for jewellers like Cartier and Bulgari, the “Chameleon” is decidedly unconventional for Patek Philippe. Made in the late 1940s, this example of the “Chameleon” is only the second one known. The first example resides in the Patek Philippe Museum as inventory no. P-107. The “Chameleon” is perhaps more object than timekeeper. It has an estimate of CHF50,000-100,000 – arguably not so much for a sculptural Patek Philippe of which only two are known, or a pricey, oddball ladies’ watch. But it is unquestionably interesting and perhaps one of the most intriguing objects on the block this weekend. The “Chameleon” is lot 450 and has an estimate of CHF50,000-100,000. Its archive extract has been ordered and is pending according to Antiquorum. For more, visit Antiquorum.com.  

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Review: the Atelier Holgur Frømand Worn & Wound
De Bethune May 8, 2023

Review: the Atelier Holgur Frømand

One of the great things about the current state of the watch world is the insane variety of watches that are available. We’re at a point (or at least approaching one) where brands of all stripes are willing to get creative in ways we haven’t seen in years. We’ve come out of a long period of time dominated by vintage inspired watches that all felt cut from the same cloth, and it feels like we’re now at the beginning of a new movement where makers large and small are aiming for narrower and narrower niches. I’m lucky to have seen some of the watches coming from brands we all admire later in the year, and I’m confident that when the dust settles we’ll be talking about a sea change toward more adventurous designs and a level of watchmaking once reserved for the super wealthy being made accessible to new customers for the first time. This is why I’m more interested than ever in the micro indies I’ve discussed in these pages previously. It feels like there’s a nearly infinite opportunity for brands to create special, unusual, innovative, and original watches for an audience that’s simultaneously incredibly broad and highly specialized. There’s no shortage of collectors interested in getting something unique – a byproduct of the aforementioned decade of lookalike black dialed divers. And yet, each individual watch forces you to ask, “Who is this for?” That’s a question that most of us wonder everytime we look at an MB&F; or De Bethune, and the answe...

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Five alternatives to the Tudor Black Bay 54, since you already can’t get one Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay 54 since May 4, 2023

Five alternatives to the Tudor Black Bay 54, since you already can’t get one

As soon as Tudor was founded as an affordable offshoot of Rolex, their cult popularity began. Even so, I don’t think many people could have predicted just how far things would come. The introduction of the Black Bay series in 2012 really accelerated Tudor’s journey out from Rolex’s shadow, and the last handful of years … ContinuedThe post Five alternatives to the Tudor Black Bay 54, since you already can’t get one appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Vero Launches the Meridian, a Casual Weekend Watch with a Manually Wound Movement Worn & Wound
May 4, 2023

Vero Launches the Meridian, a Casual Weekend Watch with a Manually Wound Movement

One of the big hits of the recently completed Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco came from Vero, a brand we’ve been covering for years. The transformation that Vero has made as a company doesn’t get enough coverage. Longtime readers might remember the time we took a look at how Vero was manufacturing watches at their Oregon headquarters, but since that time, the brand has changed their strategy and found their groove with an entirely new aesthetic. In 2021, with the launch of the Open Water diver, Vero made a hard pivot toward outsourcing their manufacturing to trusted Swiss partners, and refocusing the brand on customer service (they now offer a ten year warranty) and shifting the design language into something a little bolder and more colorful. The Open Water and Workhorse Chrono have proven to be durable hits on the microbrand scene, each spawning multiple new references since they made their debuts, and now they’re joined by the Meridian, a handsome manually wound piece that is a completely Vero take on the classic field watch.    Vero characterizes the Meridian as a “weekend watch,” which is borne out in the casual color schemes of the two models that recently launched the collection. First up is the Rambler, a bright blue dial with a red and white outer track, and easy to read black Arabic numerals at each hour. We also have the Rally, which is something of an inversion of the Rambler with its cream colored dial and accents in the perimeter in blue and r...

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Black magic: The Chopard Alpine Eagle Japan Limited Edition Time+Tide
Chopard Alpine Eagle Japan Limited May 4, 2023

Black magic: The Chopard Alpine Eagle Japan Limited Edition

Chopard’s Alpine Eagle honours Japan with a blacked-out Shikkoku dial. The sapphire display caseback has also been tinted a dark grey. To further chase simplicity and zen, the date display has been removed. After the Chopard Alpine Eagle was introduced in 2019, putting a contemporary twist on a 1970s design, it quickly became one of … ContinuedThe post Black magic: The Chopard Alpine Eagle Japan Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Frederique Constant celebrates 35 years with three new releases Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin May 2, 2023

Frederique Constant celebrates 35 years with three new releases

Established in 1988, Frederique Constant is a relatively new player on the Swiss watch scene with a mere 35 years under its belt – a blink in the eye of the likes of Vacheron Constantin. Despite its comparatively shorter history, the brand has still garnered worldwide success on the back of solid, classic design and quality … ContinuedThe post Frederique Constant celebrates 35 years with three new releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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A Week In Watches Ep. 47: Integrated Sport Watches, Minty Dials, & Pokemon Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward called Apr 30, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 47: Integrated Sport Watches, Minty Dials, & Pokemon

We’ve got an exciting week of watch news this week for episode 47 of A Week In Watches, including a new integrated sport watch from Christopher Ward called The Twelve (we’ve got hands-on impressions of that watch coming soon), a surprising (in the best possible way) collab from Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin, and even some Pokemon thrown in for good measure. Plus, some incredible new dials from the likes of Monta and Zelos. Catch all this and more in the full episode below. We’re getting some hands-on time with the latest from plenty of brands presenting this weekend at our Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco, including The Twelve from Christopher Ward, the newest Monta Noble, and watches from Nivada Grenchen, Autodromo, Zodiac, and more that we’ll be presenting in next week’s episode. At the end of the episode, we answer some of your questions from the comment section! Be sure to leave your comment or question on this video and we’ll answer in a future video. If you’d like to engage with us and the community further, be sure to sign up for our newsletter, which will grant you access to our Worn & Wound+ Slack community. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 47: Integrated Sport Watches, Minty Dials, & Pokemon appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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D.C.’s top three Norqain picks from the shop Time+Tide
Norqain picks from Apr 30, 2023

D.C.’s top three Norqain picks from the shop

We’ve got some exciting news! Time + Tide is now an authorised dealer for Norqain, and we couldn’t be more thrilled. The Swiss brand has been making waves since they burst onto the scene five years ago, with attractive original designs that back up their good looks with some truly proper specs. A fiercely independent … ContinuedThe post D.C.’s top three Norqain picks from the shop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Czapek Antarctique S is a fever dream of light and colour you won’t want to wake from Time+Tide
Czapek Antarctique S Apr 25, 2023

The Czapek Antarctique S is a fever dream of light and colour you won’t want to wake from

Czapek continues to shake up the integrated bracelet watch space with stunning new versions of their 38.5mm Antarctique S The Sashiko variants feature dials in Azure or Lotus Pink, inspired by Edo-period Japanese stitching The Carte de Nuages versions are available in two cloudlike mother-of-pearl dial colours, with brilliant diamond accents I’ve never seen a … ContinuedThe post The Czapek Antarctique S is a fever dream of light and colour you won’t want to wake from appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Kendall Roy’s change in watches offers an unsettling hint of things to come… Time+Tide
Apr 22, 2023

Kendall Roy’s change in watches offers an unsettling hint of things to come…

In Succession, Kendall Roy is a twitchy psychodrama of a man in a cashmere baseball cap.  His personality flip-flops and flop-flips from one scene to the next. One moment he’s grandiose and narcissistic, the next he’s pitifully insecure. But most of all, Kendall is just very, very sad as he yearns for his father’s approval … ContinuedThe post Kendall Roy’s change in watches offers an unsettling hint of things to come… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Tanner T. Worn & Wound
Cartier Tank Must Solarbeat $2610 Apr 21, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Tanner T.

Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Tanner T. shares a tidy three watch collection that spans from some all-time classics, to some newcomers on the scene. There’s plenty of style here to enjoy, and even a reminder not to take ourselves too seriously. Best of all, this collection could come in under budget at the right spec. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here.  I must admit this was a challenge, not because I am spoiled for choice (which we all are these days as watch enthusiasts), but because I actually aspire to not be a collector. Wearing and enjoying a single piece day in, day out is something I pursue and practice. There’s something rewarding about a watch so satisfying and inherently capable that it requires no stablemates. Now for the rest of us who live in reality and want to experience more, here are three watches that comprise a solid trio and share unique aspects about what keeps collecting interesting. Oh, and they all fit well under five thousand of your hard-earned buckaroos. Cartier Tank Must Solarbeat ($2610 in small, $2740 in large) Cartier’s reputation as the “Jeweler of Kings and King of Jewelers” is another way of suggesting they’re your favorite watch company’s favorite watch company (the folks at Jaeger LeCoultre are gonna love that). The storied maison has been on an incredible run over the last few years with reimagined hits li...

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The Windup Watch Fair is Almost Here! A Full Breakdown of Everything to See and Experience in SF Next Weekend… Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Fortis Oris Apr 21, 2023

The Windup Watch Fair is Almost Here! A Full Breakdown of Everything to See and Experience in SF Next Weekend…

Now in its ninth year, and fourth in San Francisco, the Windup Watch Fair has become a fixture of the San Francisco watch community. Every April, enthusiasts, collectors, and newbies alike gather to shop and talk watches-and this year, there are even more events to participate in! Not only are there over 60 brands to check out at the Fair, we have for the first time in SF, a full slate of FREE panels and programming. We’ve put together a full rundown of special events below, but first, let’s remind everyone of the basics. As always, the Windup Watch Fair is free and open to the public. We’re able to offer this open access with the support of our presenting partners and, most importantly, our Lead Sponsors. This year’s Lead Sponsors include Accutron, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Oris, and Zodiac. All of these brands will have a significant presence within the Fair, with dynamic booth spaces and special events. We’re also beyond excited to be joined by over 60 presenting brands this year, which is double the size of last year’s events. The full roster of brands includes: And as a reminder, the event location and hours are as follows: Terra Gallery – 511 Harrison Street, San Francisco, CA 94105 Friday, April 28: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, April 29: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, April 30: 12PM – 5PM Throughout the days, attendees can expect food trucks, a full cash bar, dedicated lounge spaces, outdoor space, as well as sponsored giveaways from Bespoke Watch Project and Fils...

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The Nomos Tetra quartet in shades of pink elevates a new contender for the colour of the year Time+Tide
Nomos Tetra quartet Apr 20, 2023

The Nomos Tetra quartet in shades of pink elevates a new contender for the colour of the year

Nomos are releasing four new versions of the Nomos Tetra in different pink hues. The pinks range from a subtle pop of hot pink to a deep aubergine with gold accents. Pink is looking like a contender for colour of the year. It’s often said that pink used to be seen as a masculine colour … ContinuedThe post The Nomos Tetra quartet in shades of pink elevates a new contender for the colour of the year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Atelier Wen collaborates with Revolution on the Perception Xi “Jubilation” Time+Tide
Atelier Wen Apr 18, 2023

Atelier Wen collaborates with Revolution on the Perception Xi “Jubilation”

The Atelier Wen Perception has seen a few permutations by this point, initially launching as an incredibly well-priced entry point into hand-made guilloché, courtesy of the only Chinese artisan able to produce them. Though the price has risen considerably since the early bird specials, each new special edition had something unique to offer, and this … ContinuedThe post Atelier Wen collaborates with Revolution on the Perception Xi “Jubilation” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Quartz Crisis wasn’t solely to blame for the industry downfall, real trouble was brewing for years Time+Tide
Brew ing Apr 18, 2023

The Quartz Crisis wasn’t solely to blame for the industry downfall, real trouble was brewing for years

The history of timekeeping dates back to whenever the first creature wondered where the sun was in the sky, and the earliest evidence for calendars comes from Babylon and Egypt 5,000 years ago. In all that time, there haven’t been any horological events that are mentioned with as much dread as the Quartz Crisis. After … ContinuedThe post The Quartz Crisis wasn’t solely to blame for the industry downfall, real trouble was brewing for years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hands-On: History Repeats Itself with the Wolbrook X-15 Skindiver Worldtimer Worn & Wound
Vulcain Apr 17, 2023

Hands-On: History Repeats Itself with the Wolbrook X-15 Skindiver Worldtimer

Why start a watch brand from the ground up if you inherently have a keen eye for defunct brands with a legitimate history and product design substance that present-day enthusiasts can easily get behind. It’s a playbook we’ve seen exercised occasionally within the past decade, but in recent years, it seems like a go-to strategy implemented by those with incredible foresight, time and time again. I hope you don’t mistake this as complaining. As much as I love seeing a brand release something completely new and refreshing, I am overjoyed by seeing bygone brands properly getting resurrected. It’s a phenomenon we’ve seen with the likes of Aquastar, Vulcain, and Wolbrook Now what do these brands have in common? Well for starters, they were all revived around the same time frame, beginning in 2019 (Wolbrook). Brand heritage, as well as name recognition seems to be another trait at their core. For Aquastar, you have their charming divers famously worn by Jacques Cousteau and his crew during countless expeditions in the 1960s. With Vulcain, how could we not think of the Cricket and its historical ties to the United States presidency. And as for Wolbrook, well, you have a brand history that has a connection to the dawn of the space race, hypersonic rocket-powered jet testing and the first man to ever step on the moon, Neil Alden Armstrong. Wolbrook’s latest release is the X-15 Skindiver Worldtimer and is a tribute to one of the watches that Armstrong wore during his stor...

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MICRO MONDAYS: Charlie Paris introduces the Alliance 68H and Phase de Lune Time+Tide
Baltic Serica Apr 17, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: Charlie Paris introduces the Alliance 68H and Phase de Lune

Over the past 10 years, French brands have been making real waves in the horological world. The country has seen a resurgence of fine watchmaking that comes in all shapes and forms. You’ve probably have heard of Baltic, Serica and Yema, but have you heard of Charlie Paris? Based in – yes, you guessed it … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Charlie Paris introduces the Alliance 68H and Phase de Lune appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Formex Essence Leggera Worn & Wound
Formex Essence Leggera Apr 14, 2023

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Formex Essence Leggera

A big part of the appeal of micro-brands* rests in their ability to exercise a greater level of general creativity to bring a specific vision to life, something we’ve always found value in around here. We’ve seen some pretty sophisticated stuff take shape, from unique hand sets and dials, to wandering hours and composite cases. One brand in particular has proven rather adept at implementing what I have no issues calling exotic engineering solutions to their watches, and that brand is Formex. With “roots in high-end watch manufacturing” that should come as no surprise, and while the brand’s own aesthetic has undergone some pretty wild transitions, they seem to have landed in a cohesive space with their latest generations of watches in the Essence, Reef, and Field collections.  *Okay, Formex isn’t exactly a micro-brand. They are attached to that noted “high-end watch manufacturer” in a way that very, very few brands (large or small) are. This allows them access to engineer solutions for things like quick adjustment mechanisms in a manner that almost zero micro-brands can. Formex is a small (but not really) manufacturer that produces their own watches, which take full advantage of that fact. The micro-brand or small-independent nomenclature doesn’t neatly apply here, but given the price points that Formex tends to play in, I view them along the same lines as more traditional micro-brands the likes of which we frequently discuss around here. $1790 [VIDEO] Ow...

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A Week In Watches Ep. 44: The New Releases You (Probably) Missed Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant more hits from Chopard Apr 9, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 44: The New Releases You (Probably) Missed

Welcome to episode 44 of A Week In Watches, a week where we recover from the hustle bustle of Watches & Wonders, and ponder some of the releases that may have slipped through the cracks. We talk about a new world timer watch from Ming, a few new watches from Frederique Constant, more hits from Chopard, and even a new LM Perpetual variant in steel from MB&F; (more from the M.A.D. House coming soon!). Stay tuned as we get our hands on many of these new release for more in-depth reviews. We also caught wind of a new batch of cities selected to sell the MoonSwatch Mission to Moonshine, for one day only this past week. What will this mean for future availability? Do we want more of these special edition MoonSwatches? Let us know in the comments or head over to YouTube to join the discussion. In total this may have been a somewhat low key year for Watches & Wonders, but there was still plenty to explore and discover, even on the fringes and outside of the show itself. We’ve got an inside look at a few other shows taking place in Geneva last week, so keep an eye out for more from the likes of Sinn, DeBethune, F.P. Journe, Doxa, and others. Let us know what releases caught your eye and what you’d like to see reviewed here at Worn & Wound. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 44: The New Releases You (Probably) Missed appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Bulova Apr 6, 2023

The Breadth of Bulova: A Guide to American Icons

When iconic American watchmaking brands are brought up, it’s impossible not to mention Bulova. Born out of the mind of Joseph Bulova in 1875, the brand has been making quality timepieces for nearly one and a half centuries, with the brand’s 150th anniversary coming up soon. When a brand gets their start so early in the grand scheme of American history, you can trace the watches back to specific periods of innovation and design language. Today, we’re exploring the breadth of Bulova by highlighting some of their most iconic models that are still made today. Whether you want to learn about WWII watches from the 1940s, space-worn watches of the 1960s, brightly-colored dive watches of the 1970s, or technology from the dawn of quartz watches, Bulova has something to pique your interest. Let’s take a closer look at some modern interpretations of some of Bulova’s most recognizable timepieces. The post The Breadth of Bulova: A Guide to American Icons appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Vacheron Constantin Adds a Retrograde Date Complication to the Overseas Collection Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Adds Apr 4, 2023

Vacheron Constantin Adds a Retrograde Date Complication to the Overseas Collection

Last year’s big release from Vacheron Constantin, the reintroduction of the legendary 222, sparked all kinds of speculation that we’d get another variant of that sports watch at this year’s Watches & Wonders. Maybe one in steel? Or with new complications? As it turns out, we didn’t get a 222 of any kind this year, but VC paid respect to its contemporary integrated bracelet sports watch, a watch whose lineage can be traced back directly to the 222, by adding a complication that is deeply tied to the brand’s identity, a retrograde date display. It’s a first for the Overseas collection, which is itself kind of surprising. It’s one of those watches you can’t quite believe didn’t exist before now, and now that it’s here, it feels that much more well integrated with the rest of the collection.  The new Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date features the same 41mm steel case profile that the brand has been using since the collection was relaunched in 2016. The Overseas, while pre-dating the hysteria for integrated bracelet sports watches by many years (the line was introduced in 1996) was part of a later group of integrated bracelet watches to really catch fire with collectors in the recent boom, following the Royal Oak and Nautilus, but ahead of watches like the newer Alpine Eagle from Chopard. It has a character that is distinct from its competitors, and is uniquely Vacheron, dominated by a complex notched bezel and less intense case geometry. The Overseas, mo...

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Patek Philippe wows with the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph in white gold Time+Tide
Patek Philippe wows Apr 4, 2023

Patek Philippe wows with the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph in white gold

Patek Philippe embarks on a new route for Watches & Wonders 2023 with two new versions of its Calatrava Pilot Travel Time. In addition to the second time zone, there’s the added complication of a flyback chronograph. Two dial colours are offered, both cased in polished white gold. The new Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe wows with the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph in white gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Parmigiani Fleurier Premiers Minute Rattrapante Within Tonda PF Collection Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier Premiers Minute Rattrapante Within Apr 3, 2023

Parmigiani Fleurier Premiers Minute Rattrapante Within Tonda PF Collection

One of our favorite releases from Watches & Wonders 2022 last year was the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, a watch that presented a unique hidden 2nd hour hand that could be adjusted to a different time zone with a press of a button in the lug. For 2023, Parmigiani returns to this concept in a slightly different manner, with the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante. Instead of offering a second 12 hour hand, this latest Tonda brings us a second, independently adjustable minute hand, offering the functionality we’d typically see in a rotating bezel, only, you know, without the bezel. As fun as bezels are to turn, pressing buttons might even be more fun, and this Parmigiani is about as entertaining as they come from a functional point of view. A bit less so in the visual department, but this is still a Tonda through and through.  The Minute Rattrapante presents not one, but two buttons in both lugs along the 9 o’clock side of the case. These are used to adjust the second minute hand in 5 minute, and 1 minute increments. If you’ve just plugged your parking meter for 24 minutes, and you need to keep tabs on it, you’d press the button on the bottom four times to place the hand 20 minutes out, and the button at the top 4 times to bring it the full 24 minutes out. That will remain parked at that spot, while the regular minute hand catches up to it, eventually surpassing it to let you know how far you’ve gone over. Exactly the same as rotating the triangle of your ...

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I’ll be back: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph pays homage to Arnie’s “End of Days” model Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Apr 3, 2023

I’ll be back: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph pays homage to Arnie’s “End of Days” model

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph celebrates the Offshore’s 30th anniversary This black ceramic model pays homage to the Royal Oak Offshore “End of Days” (ref. 25770SN) released in 1999 in collaboration with Arnold Schwarzenegger The new 43mm model repeats the high-contrast aesthetic of yellow on black The background It’s fair to say … ContinuedThe post I’ll be back: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph pays homage to Arnie’s “End of Days” model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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