Deployant
Zenith El Primero 1969 re-edition 42 mm
Zenith is the first manufacture to create an automatic integrated column wheel movement, and promptly christened it the El Primero.
Results for Movement vs Caliber
3,333 articles · 17 videos found · page 98 of 112
Deployant
SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces the J12 X-Ray
To mark the 20th anniversary of the J12, Chanel is premiering not one but two epic versions of the iconic ceramic watch. While the first features a striking two-colour ceramic case, the second is perhaps the ultimate J12. Rendered entirely in clear sapphire – case, bracelet, and movement – the J12 X-Ray is delicate, extravagant and novel. Clear and second only to diamond in hardness, sapphire is also fragile and susceptible to chipping, cracking or shattering. Its properties are similar to that of ceramic, the defining material of the J12, except more extreme. As it is with Chanel’s ceramic cases, the sapphire parts of the J12 X-Ray are made by Chanel subsidiary G&F; Chatelain, a case maker that has produced sapphire cases for another Chanel-owned brand, Bell & Ross. Measuring 38mm wide, the case is machined from a single sapphire block and topped by a white gold bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds. Similarly, the dial is also sapphire, and fitted with a minute track and hands in white gold. All of the hour markers, on the other hand, are baguette-cut diamonds. Sapphire bridges and links And beneath the sapphire dial – which also doubles up as the movement base plate – is the Caliber 3.1. Derived from the rectangular, skeletonised Caliber 3 found in the in the Boy-Friend Skeleton, the Caliber 3.1 is hand-wound with all of its moving parts secured by sapphire bridges, which allows the movement to be seen from the front and back. The pivots of the gears of the go...
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 Blue Enamel
Slim, elegantly and typically Breguet in style – the gently off-centre dial echoes asymmetric pocket watches – the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 was originally launched with a guilloche dial, before being given a white, fired enamel dial. And last year Breguet debuted a striking variant with a fully skeletonised movement decorated in a surprisingly elaborate manner. For 2020 Breguet has returned to its traditional look, albeit with a twist: the dial has been transformed into deep blue enamel for a boutique-only edition. Similar to the makeover applied to the time-and-date Classique 5177, the blue dial is grand feu enamel – vitreous enamel set by firing it in an oven at temperatures over 800°C. The dial starts as a disc of solid gold, which is then painted with a mixture of enamel powder, water and oil. It’s then baked in an oven, and the process repeated several times until the deep blue colour is achieved. The surface is then ground down by hand to give it a mirrored finish, before undergoing a final trip to the oven. The star and lozenge minute track is inspired by the same on vintage pocket watches Then the markings on the dial – including the symbols of the minute track and Breguet numerals – are printed in powdered silver, which gives them a granular, metallic sheen. And faintly etched by laser just above the tourbillon is the Breguet “secret” signature, a feature devised in the 19th century to distinguish genuine Breguet pocket watches from ...
SJX Watches
Business News: Swatch Group Takes Legal Action Against COMCO
Just before the new year, Swiss competition regulator COMCO, also known by its German acronym Weko, announced a provisional suspension of ETA’s right to sell movements to third-party brands. Once the dominant supplier of mechanical movements in Switzerland, ETA and its parent Swatch Group have been embroiled in a decades-long dispute with COMCO over the movement maker’s allegedly anticompetitive practices. Now the dispute between Switzerland’s largest watchmaking group and COMCO has taken a fresh turn with the Swatch Group filing a complaint with the Swiss federal court on January 20, demanding a repeal of COMCO’s decision to suspend sales, a move first reported by Swiss newspaper Neue Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ). An example of an ETA movement with upgraded features that ETA only supplies to sister brands; seen here inside a Hamilton According to the competition agency, the suspension of sales is meant to further weaken ETA’s market power as a major movement supplier, while allowing space for other movement suppliers to ramp up production and build their order books. The suspension remains in force until summer 2020, when COMCO will reach a final verdict on ETA’s rights and obligations. COMCO did allow a narrow exception to the ban, allowing ETA to sell its movements to small- and medium-sized watch brands that are existing clients. But the exception came a stipulation: Swatch Group has to treat all clients equally, which means selling movements to one small brand...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Voutilainen Vingt-8 ‘Blue Pearl’ 44 mm
The highly-regarded Voutilainen Vingt-8 has a 39 mm case as standard, along with a dazzling variety of dials and additional complications, from a retrograde date to an inverted movement. But one of the more interesting variants is the simple-but-enormous oversized Vingt-8. Originally introduced in 2017, the extra-large, 44 mm Vingt-8 is available as a custom order, with the most recent example being the Vingt-8 ‘Blue Pearl’, one of the few Voutilainen watches with a mother-of-pearl dial. The 44 mm case… With an enlarged movement to fit The oversized Vingt-8 has been produced in a range of case metals, including steel, but this example has a platinum case, which means an impressive heft, the kind of weight you rarely find on highly-finished, classical wristwatches. But it also means the watch feels heavy on the wrist, which can be good or bad depending on taste. Importantly – and this is probably the most important design change – the lug width has been widened to 22 mm, compared to just 20 mm on the very first oversized watch. This gives the watch ideal proportions – the new case design needs nothing more. Visually the watch is light and informal. The mother of pearl is a pale, even blue that is almost luminous and reveals nuances up close. It gives the watch a cool colour palette that’s more restrained than the average Voutilainen, which tends to have an elaborately decorated dial. Pearl’s progress The first watch with such a dial was the 2-Eight, the lad...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Why the Position of a Watch Influences Accuracy
A mechanical watch movement is a tiny-but-complex system made up of components in equilibrium, operating flawlessly. But because the those components are delicate – especially the parts that make up the escapement – its operation can be influenced by external factors, including shock, moisture, and more commonly, the position of the watch, whether on the wrist or off. The position of a watch determines how gravity affects the moving parts of the movement. In other words, the timekeeping of a watch can vary according to whether it is laid on its back or on its side. That resulting variation is known as positional error, and it is largely because of gravity’s effect on the balance wheel – the oscillator in the regulating organ of the movement. Beyond the position of a watch, positional error is also shaped by factors like the amplitude of the balance wheel, the type of hairspring, and the poise of the balance. All are inextricably linked and must be adjusted just right – properly regulated in watchmaking parlance – in order for a watch to have minimal positional error and thus keep good time. [Editor’s note: In this article we’ll just deal with movements constructed traditionally with conventional materials, leaving out silicon-equipped movements, which are still relatively niche.] The Microstella adjustable-mass balance of the Rolex cal. 4030, which is based on the Zenith El Primero A matter of position The position of a watch significantly affects its ac...
Deployant
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950
Parmigiani's staple elegant dress watch has a slim profile, complete with an attractive looking movement. The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda is now available in a matte navy blue dial in a stainless steel case.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Limited Editions
Originally unveiled as a sub-brand of Seiko in 1960 dedicated entirely to high-precision wristwatches – and only sold in Japan for most of that time – Grand Seiko has now become an independent brand. This year is the 60th anniversary of its founding, and the occasion is being commemorated with a quartet of limited editions (with perhaps more to come later in the year), including two quartz watches powered by the 9F85, a new, top-of-the-line quartz movement. All of the anniversary editions feature a dial in dark blue, one of Grand Seiko’s signature colours, albeit executed in different materials or finishes, ranging from a stamped pattern to mother of pearl. All of the men’s models also have a red seconds hand, creating a red and blue aesthetic that’s uncommon for Grand Seiko. The flagship 60th anniversary watch is the Heritage Collection Hi-Beat 36000 Limited Edition (SBGH281), a variant of the 44GS “modern reinterpretation” that features broad, mirror-polished case flanks that are steeply sloped, a distinguishing characteristic of the 44GS case style. It’s powered by the 9S85, an automatic movement operated at 36,000 beats per hour, hence the “Hi-Beat” label. Only 1,500 will be made. The Hi-Beat limited edition also features a gold “GS” logo on the dial The other mechanical model in the anniversary line-up is the Elegance Collection Women’s Automatic Limited Edition (STGK015), powered by the 9S27 automatic movement. Its dial is dark-blue mother...
Time+Tide
“Watch & Act!” Auction Item - Lot 15: A moon dance with Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture
The Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture Fratello Exclusive is produced in a limited run of 29 pieces, and are all individually numbered on the caseback. The 42mm 3 parts-case holds a convex sapphire crystal and clear caseback revealing the inner workings of the FC-712 caliber. The two counters of the moonphase and date are respectively … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 15: A moon dance with Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Hermès Arceau Squelette: How A ‘Smokescreen’ Achieves Ultimate Elegance
Martin Green doesn't like skeleton watches despite adoring the craftsmanship that goes into making them because he isn't fond of seeing a stunning movement with a backdrop of skin and pressed hair. Hermès solved that problem with the Arceau Squelette, which showcases the beauty of the movement without any "hairy" backdrop by using a "smokescreen."
Deployant
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Spitfire
Released in 2019, IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph Spitfire is available in both stainless steel and bronze. It features a similar layout to the previous generation 7750 movement Pilot's chronographs but with a reduced size at 41 mm and an in-house movement.
WatchAdvice
Zenith Elite Lady MoonPhase Review
Zenith has rejuvenated the Elite collection through timeless lines and simple yet strong visual aesthetics. The Zenith Elite Lady Moonphase is setting the tone for the brand and its modern, stylish watches. What are the key features? The most important feature worth mentioning is that the Zenith Elite Lady Moonphase has 64 round brilliant cut diamonds around the bezel with VS clarity, totalling 0.9 of a carot. These diamonds sparkle beautifully from its side angles and would be noticeable for those around you. This watch is also offered without diamonds. The stainless-steel bracelet is another exquisite feature. It’s so shiny that you can see your own reflection. It’s elegant, classy and practical. Due to the design and make of this bracelet, marks or light scratches were not visible even after a few weeks of wear. This watch also comes in the black alligator leather strap which is also a classy look. The diameter of the Zenith Elite Lady Moonphase is 36mm which may sound big but as the casing is only 9.1mm, it’s ultra-thin. This watch is also available in 33mm with or without diamonds. The dial of the Zenith Elite Lady Moonphase is simple and clean making it extremely easy to tell the time. The blue hand of the small seconds counter at 9 o’clock is a thoughtful feature as it stands out well against the mother of pearl dial. It shines beautifully under the right light and angle. The simplicity of the dial adds to the elegance of this watch. The open case ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Red Magic
The brand's seven-barrel, 14-day movement – now encased in red ceramic.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon Black Titanium
The eight years Vacheron Constantin spent on developing the most complicated watch ever – the Reference 57260 pocket watch – spawned not just the timepiece itself, but various complications incorporated within its movement. A handful of its complications have been translated into wristwatch form, including the multi-axis tourbillon, resulting in the Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon. Originally launched in 2016 in a white gold case, and later iterated with cases in other precious metals, the Armillary Tourbillon recently made its debut with a black-coated titanium case, giving it a radically different look and feel from the earlier versions. The watch is big, lightweight, and mechanical looking, setting it apart from the typical Vacheron Constantin. Though its colours are stealthy, the size of the case and intricacy of the dial mean it is hard to miss. The case is huge – 45 mm in diameter and over 20mm high – and it looks the part on the wrist. Part of the thickness is due to the highly-domed crystal, a necessity because of the relatively thick movement and bi-axial tourbillon. In fact, the tourbillon sits so high that a bubble is integrated into the already-high crystal to accommodate the cage. The pointed tips of the lugs are inspired by the Maltese cross, which is also the logo of Vacheron Constantin But this particular version of the Armillary Tourbillon is satisfyingly light because of the case material. As a result it wears relatively well for a watch ...
Quill & Pad
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic With Full Metal Bracelet: Inspiring Amnemori!
The Streamliner Flyback Chronograph is about firsts for Moser: its first chronograph complication, its first bracelet, its first cushion-shaped case, a brand-new dial, hands, and a new movement. But what grabbed Joshua Munchow from the start was the bracelet, and that is when the amnemori began. What is that? Joshua explains here in detail.
Deployant
Review: Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK series
Grand Seiko released a 'new' cushion case and modified manual winding movement with the 2019 SBGK series. The SBGK series consisted of 3 limited edition models, and 3 regular production models.
Revolution
TAG Heuer Carrera 160 Years Silver Limited Edition
TAG Heuer releases a classic Carrera with modern movement to celebrate the company’s 160 years.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
The Seduttori gets a fancy new movement.
SJX Watches
Bulgari Introduces the Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
The flagship launch for Bulgari at LVMH Watch Week is a compact tourbillon for ladies that’s technically interesting because it is powered by a newly-developed form movement. The Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon is a moderately large ladies’ watch, with a case measuring 34 mm in diameter and a slim 8.9 mm high. Because it is a Serpenti – which is Italian for “serpent” – the case is shaped like a snake’s head, giving it an ovoid form that has quite a presence on the wrist. Available in white gold or rose gold, the case is set with diamonds, as is the dial (and there’s also a version in white gold with a matching bracelet, set in diamonds from end to end). Inside is the BVL150, a hand-wound movement constructed specifically for this watch. It’s a small movement, measuring 22 mm at its longest and 3.65 mm high, but still manages to accommodate a tourbillon and a 40-hour power reserve. More notably, the movement is a form movement; its shape traces the case, with the tourbillon taking centre stage at six o’clock. Unusually, the tourbillon looks like a flying tourbillon, but is a conventional tourbillon secured by a bridge. But the bridge is a piece of clear sapphire, with the pivot jewel in its centre, making it almost invisible. Another unconventional feature is the crown, which is positioned just between two and three o’clock – inclined at six degrees from the horizontal according to Bulgari – a necessity due to the compact size of the movement. Key fa...
Time+Tide
The Tudor 1926: a great daily timepiece for the classically inclined
Editor’s note: One of Tudor’s lesser-known model ranges, the 1926 is an admirable everyday watch with a number of great benefits. For a start, it’s powered by a tried and true ETA movement, not one of Tudor’s in-house calibres. Why is that a good thing? Well, for a start, it keeps costs down, as evidenced … ContinuedThe post The Tudor 1926: a great daily timepiece for the classically inclined appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Longines Master Collection Ref. L2.673.4.92.0
Every year there’s a couple of timepieces that, for one reason or another, slip under the collective radar of us watch enthusiasts. There were more than a few examples in 2019: think the Citizen Eco-Drive Caliber 0100, Rado Golden Horse, Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic … the list goes on. But the watch that tends … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Master Collection Ref. L2.673.4.92.0 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
New Steel Omega Speedmaster 321 “Ed White” Just Announced (ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001)
Omega has delivered on what the Speedmaster community has been demanding for a while now. The big difference between the previous Omega 1863 Caliber and the new Omega 321 Caliber is that the 321 has a column wheel actuator for the chronograph. This is in contrast to the 1863 Caliber's cam-actuated chronograph function.
SJX Watches
Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 “Ed White”
Having dropped enough hints – first the movement and then the platinum Speedmaster – that the launch is no longer a surprise, Omega has finally unveiled the watch many have been waiting for: the Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 in steel, a remake of the Speedmaster “Ed White”. Notably, the latest remake means that Omega now has a remake hall of fame, having reproduced almost all of the historically significant vintage Speedmaster models, namely the ref. 2915, ref. 2998, ref. 105.012 (sort of), the ref. 145.022 in 18k gold, and now, the ref. 105.003 “Ed White”. Worn by astronaut Ed White in 1965 when he became the first American to accomplish a space walk, during the Gemini 4 mission, the Speedmaster ST 105.003 has since been nicknamed after White, who unfortunately died not long after when a fire consumed the cabin of the Apollo 1 spacecraft in 1967. Reproduced faithfully Distinguished by its straight lugs, the “Ed White” has been replicated in fine form with the new Moonwatch 321. Omega gets an A for execution with the remake, though its score for creativity won’t be quite as high. The new Speedmaster is a dead ringer for the original, but executed in modern materials – plus faux-vintage Super-Luminova, naturally. Details exactly as on the original include the applied Omega logo and stepped dial The bezel insert, for instance, is a “dot over 90” like the original, but is rendered in robust ceramic with white enamel tachymetric markings, instead of the fra...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Grand Seiko Elegance Spring Drive 20th Anniversary
At Baselworld last year, Seiko unveiled its take on the ultimate time-only watch, the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Spring Drive 20th Anniversary SBGZ001. The Grand Seiko SBGZ001 is powered by essentially the same movement as found in the Credor Eichi II, but dressed up with an engraved platinum case and dial, while also priced at quite a bit more than the Eichi II, with a retail of US$76,000. Also launched at the same time was the Grand Seiko SBGZ003, which is almost the same watch – having the same movement but minus the engraving on the case and dial, resulting in a US$57,000 price tag. With their cushion-shaped cases and dauphine hands – the hallmarks of the newish Elegance Collection – both the SBGZ001 and SBGZ003 are slightly more retro in style than the stark and contemporary Eichi II. But more importantly, they are powered by the 9R02, which is an upgraded version of the movement in the Eichi II and the most gorgeous movement ever found in a modern Grand Seiko. In short, both the SBGZ001 and SBGZ003 are watches with incredibly well finished movements – amongst the best in modern watchmaking anywhere – but with a couple of caveats, discussed below. The Grand Seiko SBGZ001 – watch courtesy of Mark Cho, founder of menswear store The Armoury The 9R02 Spring Drive movement Masterpieces from the studio All of Seiko’s top of the line watches – both Grand Seiko and Credor – come from the Micro Artist Studio, a workshop set up in 2000 to produce the fi...
SJX Watches
Swatch Introduces the Big Bold Jelly
One of the iconic Swatch watches from its 1980s heyday was the Jelly Fish (ref. GZ010), which was unveiled in 1983, the same year Swatch itself was launched. A quartz movement entirely exposed in a clear plastic case – accented with brightly coloured hands – the Jelly Fish was a bestseller that encapsulated what Swatch was all about: no-frills but fun watchmaking. The Jelly Fish remained in production, in one form or another – there was even a COSC-certified chronometer limited edition (GK124) in 1990 – for over two decades. Now the spirit of the Jelly Fish returns as the Big Bold Jelly, essentially the same idea but in a larger watch case. The Big Bold Jelly features a quartz movement inside a Big Bold case, just like the recent limited editions created in collaboration with fashion label A Bathing Ape (BAPE). The case is a large 47mm in diameter, with the crown unusually positioned at two o’clock. But just as with the original Jelly Fish, the case is clear plastic, while the band is translucent silicone. And the hands are rendered in bright colours – red, yellow and blue – with a bit more colour provided by the gilded wheels within the movement. Key facts and price Big Bold Jelly Ref. SO27E100 Diameter: 47mm Height: 11.75mm Material: Clear plastic Water resistance: 30m Movement: Quartz Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds Strap: Silicone with aluminium pin buckle Availability: At Swatch stores Price: US$110 For more information, visit Swatch.co...
Revolution
The Vacuum Watch You May Never Have Heard Of…
A watertight case will protect the movement in most instances, but some manufacturers have gone even further, by sucking out all the air from within!
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The timelessly elegant Grand Seiko SBGY002
Created to celebrate the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko’s prolific Spring Drive movement, SBGY002 is a limited edition dress watch for discerning fans of the Japanese watchmaker’s signature snowflake dial. Hewn from solid 18k yellow gold, the case of the rarified timepiece is signature SBGY and, as a result, measures in at just 38.5mm and … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The timelessly elegant Grand Seiko SBGY002 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Recommended Watching: Roger W. Smith Explains History of the Mechanical Watch
Just over two weeks ago the annual George Daniels lecture took place at the City University of London, an institution supported by the late watchmaker’s charitable trust. This year’s speaker at the sold-out event was none other than Roger W. Smith, protege and successor to Daniels. Just over an hour long, including questions, the lecture is erudite, accessible and packed with nerdy trivia, like the fact that a movement running at 28,800 beats per hour will make 252,288,000 vibrations per year. Roger explained the history and rationale behind the mechanical watch, and how watchmakers are working to improve it even today. That naturally led into the lubrication-free co-axial escapement invented by Daniels (pictured above), which Roger delves into in a satisfyingly detailed manner, like comparing the sliding friction of a lever escapement against the tangential impulse of the co-axial. Fortunately, the entire proceedings were recorded and are now available online:
Quill & Pad
50 Years Of Automatic Chronographs And The Recent Debuts From Zenith, TAG Heuer, And Seiko Commemorating The Milestone Invention(s)
1969 marked the introduction of the world’s first self-winding chronographs. These were presented by Zenith with its El Primero, Seiko with the 5 Speedtimer, and an illustrious group consisting of Breitling, Heuer/Leonidas, and Hamilton/Büren, with the Chronomatic Caliber 11. Sabine Zwettler takes us through the history and looks at three of the latest-generation commemorative automatic chronographs by these early pioneers.
SJX Watches
Hands-on: Tissot T-Complication Squelette
Tissot has a stellar reputation for well-made watches at notably affordable prices, like the recent Ballade Powermatic 80 or Heritage Petite Second. Switzerland’s biggest watchmaker by production, Tissot maintains a vast portfolio of vintage-inspired, dress and technology-focused watches, including a skeleton wristwatch with modern styling. Skeletonised watches are intriguing as the intricate mechanics that make a movement tick are front and centre. Combining both aesthetics and mechanics can be a tough nut to crack, however, as legibility in particular suffers when a movement is open-worked. Tissot managed to nail both looks and legibility with the T-Complication Squelette, which retails for a little under US$2000. At 43mm in diameter and 12mm high, the T-Complication Squelette is a sizeable watch on the wrist – it has presence – but also an expansive canvas of gears and springs. The stainless steel case is fully brushed with substantial “horn” lugs, and a handful of interesting details that contribute to its character. Most notably is the asymmetry on its upper right flank that is not initially obvious. The case subtly widens from the crown to the top-right lug, filling the angular space between the lug and case that’s present on the other three lugs. And the signed crown has an interesting knurled pattern reminiscent of a turbine, creating a subtle mechanical motif that is echoed in the movement. The bezel is relatively narrow and simply gets out of the way....