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Fratello
It must have been 1999 or 2000 when the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 16710 was incredibly high on my wishlist. I even had the official Rolex advertisement for this model as the wallpaper on my Windows desktop. But I was a student, and the Rolex GMT-Master II was out of reach. The Rolex GMT-Master II […] Visit Why I Bought A Five-Digit Rolex GMT-Master II (Again) to read the full article.
Monochrome
It’s something we’ve told over and over again. Watchmaking isn’t only Swiss. Watchmaking is global and has, historically, been present all over the world. Surely, with industrialisation and the effects of the Quartz crisis, three giant hubs have emerged: Switzerland for high-end watches, Japan with its immense conglomerates and China, the silent factory… Italy surely […]
Worn & Wound
Would you expect anything less from MB&F; on their 20th anniversary than the launch of an entirely new collection? The independent brand founded by Max Büsser has spent the last two decades confounding expectations, delighting enthusiasts and collectors along the way with some of the brazen and creative watch designs of the modern era. The brand’s influence and importance on the modern independent watch scene really can’t be overstated. To date, MB&F; releases have existed on two distinct tracks: the LM or “Legacy Machine” collection, which represents Max Büsser’s idea of a classical watchmaking style (think circular cases, classical complications, and a generally traditional if sometimes highly complex readout of the time), and the HM, or “Horological Machine” collection, which can be described as pure, maximalist creativity. This is where you see watches shaped like dogs, and spaceships, with time read in unusual and unexpected ways. While you’d think that working within two collections in this manner (particularly where one is seemingly unbound by traditional watchmaking rules) Max and his team would have the freedom to create just about anything they set their mind to. In reality, of course, there are always projects that don’t reach the finish line for one reason or another. The SP One (SP is short for “Special Projects”) represents an entirely new product category for MB&F; with the promise of reviving these projects and creating entirely new one...
SJX Watches
Swiss clock maker L’Epée 1839’s latest desk-bound timekeeper is the Imperial Hot Air Balloon, a unique piece that is uncharacteristically classical compared to the brand’s recent launches that have tended towards modernity. It’s essentially a highly decorated, elaborately styled variant of the no-frills Hot Air Balloon clock of 2018. L’Epée 1839 was absorbed into LVMH last year, and this shift towards more traditional clocks chimes with the luxury group’s focus on higher-end and artisanal watchmaking. Notably, Louis Vuitton tapped L’Epée 1839 for its own hot air ballon-shaped desk clock. Initial thoughts While most of L’Epée’s creations are undoubtedly interesting, blending sculptural mechanics with proprietary clock movements, the clockmaker was historically a maker of classically traditional mantlepiece clocks. Most of its creations from earlier decades were styled after carriage clock. While entirely sculptural in form, the Hot Air Balloon manages to look as it belongs to a bygone era of watchmaking. A métiers d’art creation, the unique piece is restrained and ornate, while being modern only in the way it displays the time. Otherwise, the miniature flying object would sit comfortably in a historical residence. Not to say that other L’Epée are not well executed, but their modern and structural constructions don’t usually allow for classic artisanal crafts to be put to good use. The Hot Air Ballon’s centrepiece is the blue enamelled surface...
SJX Watches
The Geneva sales have wrapped up, but the spring auction season continues in Hong Kong, where Phillips will offer a collection of unexpected and wonderful pocket watches made for the Chinese market in the 18th and 19th centuries. As Europeans became enamored with Chinese goods such as tea, silk, and porcelain, the Chinese were equally enraptured by European watches and clocks, often adorned with miniature enamel painting, pearls, gemstones, and hand engraving. Genevan enamelling, in particular, was world-leading and adorned some of the most elaborate timepieces of the 19th century. Proof of that can be found in the Patek Philippe Museum’s extensive collection of Chinese market watches and clocks. Today, Chinese market watches seem alien in their lavish and ornate decoration. Collectors’ tastes have become homogenized over time, particularly today, which makes historical Chinese market watches stand out as a world unto themselves, both in style and mechanics. A mini collection of such watches will be sold during the first session of Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XX at 6:30 pm on May 23, 2025. The extraordinary miniature enamelling found on a clockwatch by L. Vrard & Co. Lot 801 – Perfume Sprinkler Pistol by Moulinié & Bautte & Cie Geneva historically specialized in the manufacture of oddly shaped “fantasy watches” watches during the early 19th century. Common forms include fruits, musical instruments, animals, and flowers. Some of the more exotic fanta...
Worn & Wound
Seeing a watch made by Naoya Hida & Co. in person for the first time was one of those moments when you truly realize that you have to experience a watch in the metal before casting judgement. At the time, the brand was only in its second full year, and most of the people commenting on the watches in online forums, Instagram, etc. were reacting to what they perceived as an exorbitant price tag. These specific watches, after all, used a (highly) modified Valjoux 7750 as the base movement – not exactly high horology. But when you handle one of these watches, wear it, and, importantly, turn the crown, you realize you’re dealing with an object that’s largely handmade, a fully fleshed out complete thought with a singular perspective. That’s a pretty rare thing, as are the hand carved dials that have become an aesthetic signature of the brand, and truly require magnification to fully grapple with. Naoya Hida & Co. has just unveiled their new slate of watches for 2025, and I imagine we’re heading for some of the same conversations we’ve heard before, but there’s a new watch in this crop of releases that should quiet at least some of the naysayers. The marquee release in this year’s lineup is the NH Type 6A, Naoya Hida’s most complicated watch to date and their first perpetual calendar. The 6A is made in the same vintage inspired style as all of Naoya Hida’s other watches, evoking classic pieces by Patek Philippe and others (but mostly Patek, let’s be honest...
Teddy Baldassarre
Before getting into the Seiko "Arnie," I must discuss the man who made it an icon on the big screen. Arnold Schwarzenegger is a guy who knows watches. Or he is at least a guy who is very clear and consistent about the types of watches that he likes. In terms of impact on the watch industry, few celebrity enthusiasts have been as huge (pun intended) as Schwarzenegger, the former “Mr. Universe” from Austria who dominated the big screen during the 1980s and ‘90s in high-testosterone blockbusters like Conan the Barbarian, Predator, Commando, Total Recall, End of Days, and the Terminator series. Along with his fellow iconic action star, Sylvester Stallone, Schwarzenegger helped bring Panerai and its hypermasculine, military style to the attention of millions, kicking off a fascination with large, bulky watches that more or less defined the early 2000s. He also played a significant role in taking Audemars Piguet’s boldly styled Royal Oak Offshore out from under the shadow of the original Royal Oak and into a pop-cultural milieu all its own, famously donning a specially tailored model for his 1999 thriller, End of Days. From this, one can make the assumption that Arnold, who also went on to become the governor of California, loves big watches with mechanical movements from historic Swiss maisons. But in at least two of the movies listed above, he turned instead to a Japanese watch with an analog-digital display - still plenty big, but at the time priced in a range tha...
Worn & Wound
If there’s one drum I’m constantly banging in the watch enthusiast discourse, it’s that the Swatch MoonSwatch is probably among the least interesting watches made by the brand. I know, I know. They are a phenomenon. They have probably introduced untold numbers of new collectors to our hobby. And they are meant to be fun and I should just chill out. This is all incredibly valid. But as a somewhat older, somewhat more grizzled watch collector who fondly remembers a pre-MoonSwatch era, I’m very much of the opinion that Swatch remains on the vanguard of creativity, you just have to walk past that MoonSwatch display briefcase in the boutique. This week saw the release of what I think is a great example of a watch that is more impressive in just about every way than a run of the mill MoonSwatch. The new SCUBAQUA Collection even uses the same Bioceramic material found in the MoonSwatch, but in a way that, to my eye, is more uniquely Swatch. Based on the classic Swatch Scuba collection, the new SCUBAQUA watches are a thoughtful update using new materials with enhanced specs and a more contemporary feel. The new SCUBAQUA watches are all about color and transparency, achieving what the brand calls the “jelly effect,” a principle common to many similarly transparent and colorful Swatches over the years. Each watch combines Bioceramic in the solid color sections of the case with castor oil derived biosourced materials for the transparent components. The dials in each v...
Worn & Wound
If Hollywood stars and trend forecasters are correct about the state of the watch world, it’s that bigger isn’t better anymore. Many brands are finding their sizing guidelines are in a state of flux the past few years, with many enthusiasts opting for classical sizing and subverting notions of gendered expectations. A push for inclusion within the collector community seems to have also correlated with the expansion of hallmark models into different sizing categories. The move serves to bring in new consumers and allows for a greater range of choice amongst all enthusiasts. The PRX has been Tissot’s tour de force in recent years. The reissue of an original 1970s design by the brand in 2021 sparked a bit of a revolution with enthusiasts – many of whom flocked to the watch for the competitive pricing and quality. The integrated steel bracelet and tonneau-style case shape evokes a groovy callback to the designs of the seventies when quartz movements were truly high-end and sports watches were king. It makes sense, given the popularity of the Tissot PRX since its initial reissue, why it’s now offered in 59 different variations on the brand’s website today. As many of us know, there can be popular mainstream watches whose constant re-(and re and re-)releases begin to hit a nerve with the collector community after a while. Fortunately, it seems the PRX is one that hasn’t overstayed its welcome – and for good reason. This new 25mm reference expands the market in ...
SJX Watches
If you want to own the world’s thinnest mechanical watch, the Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing, you’ll have to fight for it at The Geneva Watch Auction: XXI, which will see the first production example go under the hammer. The 1.65 mm stature of the ThinKing is even more impressive coming from a small Russian independent watchmaker, considering previous records were set by big Swiss brands ranging from Piaget to Richard Mille. Notably, this is not the first time a landmark release has been trusted to an auction that isn’t linked to a charity. The most famous example of this was the Patek Philippe Calibre 89 (ref. 989J) back in 1989 at Antiquorum’s thematic sale. The ThinKing will be sold in the first session of the auction, which starts on May 10, 2025, at 2 pm. The ThinKing in profile. Image – Phillips Mr Chaykin achieved the record-setting height with clever construction, including a “double balance wheel” system that places an intermediate wheel between the balance and escapement, allowing both to sit on the same plane. Another notable technical feature is a barrel that is open on both sides, and no thicker than the mainspring itself. And unlike most serially-produced Konstantin Chaykin watches, each ThinKing is made, finished, and assembled by Mr Chaykin himself. Wearability is enhanced by the bolt-on protective shroud in titanium christened “PalanKing”. This increases the height to 5.4 mm, but adds key-less setting and winding, and automatic winding by a...
Worn & Wound
James Cox (c.1723-1800) was a British jeweler, goldsmith and entrepreneur and the proprietor of Cox’s Museum. Cox produced lavishly ornamented automata for trade with the Far East, first with India and then with China, where the reception of his ‘toys’ or ‘sing-songs’, as the Chinese are believed to have called them, was at first a huge success. Cox was an extraordinary gentleman living in 18th century London. This was a time of great opulence with the wealthiest showing their status through objects they commissioned and owned. Cox was a clockmaker, jeweler, and entrepreneur known for creating elaborate and decorative timepieces, automata, and mechanical curiosities. He gained fame for his luxury goods, which were highly sought after by the elite. Cox’s work blended mechanical innovation with exquisite craftsmanship, producing items that were not just functional but also ornamental and artistic. Cox’s career as a jeweler began as early as 1751, and his automata were designed by leading artists including Johann Zoffany and Joseph Nollekens. In the 1760s, John Joseph Merlin became his apprentice. Though he declared himself a goldsmith, he employed several jewelers and manufacturers who would have done much of the work. Jewel cabinet with watch signed James Cox, c.1765-70. Image courtesy of the Met Museum This cabinet is an excellent example of an exquisite item made by Cox and bearing his signature. On its doors are enameled personifications of Winter and S...
Teddy Baldassarre
There have always been thin watches, and always watchmakers who have dedicated their craft to reduce the essentials of timekeeping, as well as other additional complications, into as slimmed down and wearable a package as humanly (and horologically) possible. Lately, however, as 21st century technological developments impact watchmaking as they have every other industry, it seems there are more exceptionally thin watches than ever before -some of them aimed at a customer simply seeking an elegantly understated and luxuriously lightweight timepiece for regular wear, others almost defiantly unobtainable to all but a few, but intended to boldly shatter records for both thinness and complexity. We offer some of both types in our roundup of ultra-thin watches below (which we're defining as 10mm thick or under, based on average watch sizes), in ascending order of case thickness, starting from the top with the current category record holders. Under 2mm Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari (1.75mm) In the world of high horology, Richard Mille has been pushing the envelope in the areas of materials, technologies, and (let’s face it) prices for quite some time. In 2022, the brand probably best known for making the watch that tennis champ Rafael Nadal wears to play in Grand Slams entered a new partnership with Ferrari, and the result was, to many watch enthusiasts’ surprise, the current record-holder for world’s thinnest watch. The RM UP-01 Ferrari is an almost unimaginable 1.7...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Quartz movements get a bad rap from mechanical purists-and I'll never get it. The ticking second hand can apparently leave you feeling cold, especially when you’re used to the smooth sweep of an automatic. But for me, that’s always been a bit unfair. The real question isn’t whether quartz can match mechanicals-it's whether it should have to. Bulova’s HPQ (High-Performance Quartz) Precisionist movement is out to prove that quartz doesn’t just get the job done.
Worn & Wound
Neither Ace Jewelers or Nomos Glashütte are strangers to collaborations, especially with each other: the two companies have released a total of seven collaboration models so far. To celebrate the Amsterdam boutique’s 50th anniversary, they’ve teamed up once again with the German watchmaker to create two bold and bright new references in the Metro line. Interestingly, the Metro is one of Nomos’ least-riffed on designs-meaning that they’ve done the fewest amount of novelties and collaborations using the platform as compared to other watches in their catalog. This is partly because the Metro’s designer, Mark Braun, must explicitly approve any collaboration that uses the watch as a base, highlighting the pedigree of Ace Jewelers, and the gravitas of their 50th anniversary. The most obvious punch that both new Metro models carry is right there in the name: the vibrant orange color. As a diehard San Francisco Giants fan, I’m partial to the color, but it is a daring choice-most bright colors are rare in the 2020s, where finding a car that isn’t black, white, or gray is the new needle in the haystack. The Metro, then, is actually the perfect choice for such a colorway, as its design revels in clean, postmodern design, rather than aesthetic noise. Both Orange models feature round stainless steel bezel-less cases with a crown at 3 o’clock, and a DUW 3001 automatic movement with Nomos’ proprietary swing system and up to 43 hours of power reserve visible thr...
Worn & Wound
It’s a common refrain here at Worn & Wound: every year is an anniversary. Like death, taxes, and Photoshop renders of what collectors predict the new Rolex will look like, the celebration of anniversaries in the watch industry is a certainty. We’re not complaining. An anniversary of an important watch or collection is a great time to take stock, and there have certainly been plenty of desirable releases over the years centered around big anniversaries. This year, Bell & Ross is celebrating 20 years of the BR-03 collection, their iconic square watch that has become the “face” of the brand over the past two decades. The celebration begins with the new BR-03 Skeleton, a collection of three watches that capitalizes on a big trend across all sectors of watchmaking while removing the BR-03 from its aviation themed roots, at least a little bit. Bell & Ross has been making skeletonized watches for years (often as part of their Skull series), and these watches highlight their proficiency in that area, and also take advantage of their creativity with lume. The new BR-03 Skeleton is available in three variants: Black Ceramic, Grey Steel, and Lum Ceramic. All three feature 41mm cases and a new movement, the BR-CAL.328, designed specifically for these watches. While the specs of the caliber are in line with previous time only movements used in recent BR-03 releases (like those, it has a 54 hour power reserve) its architecture has been adjusted, highlighting an “X” motif...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex, as usual, is still on a roll, bringing back some of its best hits from the past few decades. The brand’s recent reissues-like the Marlin and Q Timex-have become cult favorites, but now, Timex is going deep into the archives for something a bit more unexpected: the 1995 Intrepid Reissue. This isn’t just any retro throwback; it’s a nod to a time when sports watches were as much about functionality as they were about style. Designed for sailing and water sports enthusiasts, the Intrepid is back with a 46mm case, a highly legible white dial, and a history that’s a little more interesting than your average watch revival.
Fratello
Picking highlights from this year’s Watches and Wonders is not a simple task. But it’s a matter of abundance rather than a lack thereof. Watches and Wonders 2025 was a show with many highlights in different categories and at different price points. Nevertheless, I have managed to whittle all these highlights down to my favorite […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Jorg’s Picks From Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Tudor to read the full article.
Deployant
Here are our highlights from Gerald Charles. We pick the GC39 25th Anniversary Edition with Jump Hour complication. Live from WWG25: highlights from Gerald Charles new releases GC39 25th Anniversary Edition with Jump Hour We will have a full hands-review of this piece, which looks absolutely stunning. Titanium case with a high polished finishing. TheRead More
Deployant
We get our hands on with Piaget. We have handled the watches in Singapore earlier, but here are our impressions from the PalExpo floor.
Worn & Wound
Well, Tudor did the thing. And by “did the thing,” I mean that Tudor finally made the watch we all knew was coming, but maybe had started to doubt would ever arrive. But now the long wait is over, and the Black Bay Pro with Opaline white dial is here - and the new watch is everything people have been asking for and more, literally (but we’ll get to that in a minute). For as popular as the Black Bay Pro has been for Tudor, it didn’t take long after its launch in 2022 to notice a curious refrain of voices asking - nay, demanding - that Tudor bring a white dial in the style of the ‘Polar’ Explorer II to what is probably the outdoorsiest entry in the Black Bay family. Renders abounded, and a Polar BB Pro has been a fixture of prediction pieces for the last three years. Now, after a long wait, the watch so many asked for is here, and Tudor nailed it, not that there won’t be complaints. But first the good stuff. The dial here is awesome. The Opaline white dial (not Polar) looks - unsurprisingly - great against the all-steel look of the BB Pro, and the yellow GMT hand continues to please, albeit despite sacrificing some of the contrast that defined the original release. Thankfully, any contrast lost is more than made up for elsewhere, most especially thanks to the black surrounds on the hands and markers. The markers here are the same three-dimensional ceramic lume plots as on the black model, but here they forfeit the off-white look of the original BB Pro...
Worn & Wound
Few hobbies work better in tandem than horology and motorsports. Impressive dials, colorful flamboyance, and calculated performance? Check and check. While many a watchmaker has created an automotive-inspired watch, however, how many have a bonafide racing team with which to test their timepiece? The Baltic Scalegraph Tour Auto Limited Edition is both a celebration of the French brand’s third year as the Tour Auto official timekeepers, and a tool for the Baltic Racing team to take with them in the cockpit as they participate in the very same competition. The race takes participants-driving vintage performance cars-from Paris to Nice in different touring segments, all of which are open to spectators. The Baltic Racing crew will be driving a 1963 Lotus Elan 26R and a 1965 MG B-of course, they’ll also be sporting the new Scalegraph Tour Auto in a high octane field test for the sports chronograph watch. In a nod to motorsports watch designs from the 1970s, the titular Scalegraph features a “Big Eye” layout, with off-white subdials at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions, making the minute sub-counter more legible at a glance while racing. A blue aluminum tachymeter bezel encircles the lighter blue dial, which in turn has an outer minutes railway in a middle-toned hue of blue, creating gentle layers of contrast directly inspired by the colors of the original Tour de France Automobile. A large silver 12 market sits at the top of the dial with a midcentury sans serif...
Worn & Wound
If $1 million were dropped in your lap tomorrow, what would you do with it? It’s an age-old question (okay, maybe not age-old), one that has driven endless late-night discussion and at least one surprisingly popular ‘90s Canadian rock song. Most of us have some version of an answer to the question, and Hublot has come along to offer up one solution for one lucky Big Bang enthusiast. As part of their celebration of the 20th anniversary of the Big Bang, Hublot has produced a hell of a collector’s set - the Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary “Materials and High Complications” Unique Set. What does that mean? Well, it’s pretty much what it says on the tin. Hublot has, through a collection of five piece unique watches, built a collection of Big Bangs that does a pretty cohesive job of summing up the last two decades of Big Bang into one illuminated case. And for the very reasonable price of - cue Doctor Evil - $1 million dollars (well, really 1 million CHF, so about $1,099,000 US) it can all be yours. Inside this extreme collector’s set, you’ll find five Hublot Big Bangs, each of which combines a ‘high complication’ feature set with a case executed in some modern material or another. Moving through the collection, you’ll find a Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic in a red and black ceramic case, a Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic in a transparent sapphire case, a Big Bang Tourbillon Chronograph in a Water Blue Sapphire case, a Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Ca...
Fratello
It’s not like you’re going to play polo any time soon anyway, so why not have your Reverso complicated and with two dials? Jaeger-LeCoultre presents the Reverso Tribute Geographic and Minute Repeater, showing once again that the brand knows how to tastefully combine a classic design with horological technicity. Both complications are not just fascinating […] Visit In Case You Like Your Reverso Complicated: Jaeger-LeCoultre Presents The Reverso Tribute Geographic And Minute Repeater to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Chronographs, Ingenieurs, and techy QPs – IWC is off to the races for "F1."
Deployant
Our next stop is Parmigiani Fleurier, one of our favourite brands. This is our touch and feel session with handling impressions and live photographs.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! In the lead-up to Watches and Wonders 2025, we have been highlighting brands that have an anniversary to celebrate. Last week, we focused on Vacheron Constantin, and in the weeks before, we put the spotlight on Zenith. Brands like Breguet, Blancpain, and Audemars Piguet have anniversaries this year too, but they […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Less Obvious Rolex GMT-Master Models to read the full article.
Monochrome
Ben Kuffer, the CEO of Norqain, is lucky to have industry heavyweight Jean-Claude Biver on his advisory board. Thanks to Biver’s valuable input, Norqain introduced its high-performance Wild One sports watch collection in 2022. Featuring an innovative carbon fibre composite case with a rubber shock absorber padding the titanium movement container, the Wild One is […]
Worn & Wound
In 2023, Schwarz Etienne debuted the Geometry line of watches. With its deconstructed dial, this collection has mixed technical precision and artistic license to create a set of watches that show that going a little avant-garde can have a huge pay-off. Right in time for Watches and Wonders, the Swiss house has released the final addition to their Geometry line, the Geometry Black. Previous iterations of the Geometry line have included a salmon and silver dial option, both accentuating the ripples of guilloché in alternative patterns, including a variety of finishes: fluted lines, azuré, clous de Paris and fine sandblasted finishes. Here, the Geometry Black is a bit more subtle, but nonetheless visually appealing. The black colorway is a grown-up alternative to previous models that feels more appropriate for everyday wear, or for more formal occasions, without sacrificing the impressive technical expertise needed to build a watch as balanced as this one. Apart from the dial, Schwarz Etienne made the right decision in keeping the rest of the watch fairly spartan. Other than the lacine-style hands and sandblasted anthracite subdial, there aren’t a lot of bells and whistles – or even numerals, for that matter – to distract from the real star of the show. Coming in a 39mm stainless steel case and paired with a patinated black leather strap, I wouldn’t say this watch is simple but it’s minimal in the best way possible. Like previous references in the collection, th...
Fratello
Integrated-bracelet sports watches have been and still are a very popular genre among watch enthusiasts. And even though it’s a slightly more recent trend, GMT watches are also in high demand. That’s probably why Benoît Mintiens, the designer and founder of Ressence, decided to combine the two in one watch. We assume it’s a way […] Visit Introducing: The Ressence Type 7 - The Belgian Brand’s Surprising Take On The Integrated-Bracelet Sports Watch to read the full article.
Deployant
Finally, we have decided to do an collector's journey interview with the Chief Editor. With highlights of his watches and stories of the industry.
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