Quill & Pad
New Release: Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple
Armin Strom’s Gravity Equal Force collection continues to grow with the 2024 launch of the Ultimate Sapphire Purple model.
Results for The Nautilus Launch Story
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
New Video: Accutron’s Electrostatic Movement Explained!
For the first time, Accutron has pulled back the curtain on all the intricacies and technologies that go into how and why their one-of-a-kind electrostatic movement works. Ever hear of a Wimshurst machine? Neither had we. But its technology and principles, developed well over 100 years ago along with Accutron’s ingenuity, that power this conversation piece for your wrist. Now the story behind this movement is finally revealed. The post New Video: Accutron’s Electrostatic Movement Explained! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Grand Seiko “Birch Bark” SLGW002 and SLGW003
Nature-inspired textures are a consistent motif across Grand Seiko’s portfolio, so it comes as little surprise that the brand would choose this familiar theme for the launch of its newest dress watches, the hand-wind and mechanical Evolution 9 “Birch Bark” SLGW002 and SLGW003. With a dial that features a fresh take on the texture of tree bark, the Birch Bark is also noteworthy for the movement within: the first manually-wound caliber in Grand Seiko’s 9S movement family that hitherto was entirely self-winding. The SLGW002 (left) and SLGW003 Initial thoughts There are few things I like more than a manually wound, chronometer-grade dress watch. With this bias in mind, I am predisposed to like watches like the Birch Bark. But Grand Seiko made things easy by making it attractive as well, with a new iteration of its Evolution 9 design language that is lighter in terms of visual weight. The big news is, of course, the thickness, or rather the lack thereof. The Birch Bark is 1.75 mm (15%) thinner than its automatic siblings like the SLGH003, answering’ calls for slimmer, dressier options in the Grand Seiko catalogue. The watch is also 1.4 mm (3.5%) smaller in diameter, resulting in a form factor that sits comfortably on the average wrist and will slide under most shirt cuffs. Dimensions aside, the Birch Bark in titanium feels smaller and lighter than expected due to the case material. This runs counter to expectations, since most dress watches are in precious metal....
Fratello
Tissot Introduces New Green Dials For Its PRX Automatic Chronograph And Powermatic 80 Models
Can the Tissot PRX become any more popular than it already is? With a full collection of quartz and mechanical models in different sizes, the PRX is one of the biggest success stories of the watch industry in recent history. It makes you wonder how Tissot can make that story even better. One simple way […] Visit Tissot Introduces New Green Dials For Its PRX Automatic Chronograph And Powermatic 80 Models to read the full article.
Fratello
A Pocket Watch Owned By A Titanic Passenger Sells At Auction
If only watches could tell stories! This watch, which belonged to Titanic passenger John Jacob Astor, would certainly have a story to tell. On April 14th, 1912, the RMS Titanic struck an iceberg. It was just after 11:40 that night. The ship, which had been touted as unsinkable because of the leading technology used in […] Visit A Pocket Watch Owned By A Titanic Passenger Sells At Auction to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Amida Digitrend Take-off Edition
The Amida makes a comeback with the new Digitrend. The launch edition is known as Take-off and is a recreation of the original released in Baselworld 1979.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary
You can never be too rich or too thin – a quote attributed to Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor, but it might as well have come from Piaget, which just debuted the thinnest tourbillon wristwatch in history, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary. Covered in-depth at launch, the AUC Tourbillon is just 2 mm thick, including the case and crystal; that makes the watch thinner than a Swiss five-franc coin. While its record-breaking dimensions are headline-grabbing, it’s the watch’s overall design and ergonomics that make it look and feel almost miraculous on the wrist. The AUC Tourbillon next to the five-franc coin; it’s also slimmer than the two-franc coin, and equivalent to about 20 sheets of A4 printer paper Initial thoughts Record-chasing, whether in terms of thickness, weight, water resistance, or complications, is a common theme in the watch industry, but the results are often gimmicky and impractical. When I heard that Piaget would be introducing the thinnest tourbillon in history, I rolled my eyes. But my perspective changed as soon as I picked up the AUC Tourbillon, a moment that stands out in my memory as a highlight of Watches & Wonders 2024. The watch is thin, of course, but the immediate impression is one of substance; it feels far more substantial than it looks. This is in part due to the M64BC cobalt alloy case, the extreme rigidity of which makes the watch’s 2 mm thinness possible. Furthermore, the ergonomics of the case, which is...
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Hajime Asaoka Tsunami
This is the story of a daily-wear watch, the Tsunami by Japanese independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka. It’s not a “beater” as it’s too beautifully made for that description, and some folks justifiably take offense at characterizing a five-figure expenditure in those terms. But it is a watch that GaryG suspects that he will be wearing a lot and in a variety of settings.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Rolex Perpetual 1908 in Platinum “Ice Blue”
When Rolex surprised with the launch of the 1908 last year, we liked it – Brandon Moore wrote a positive review. Now Rolex has followed up with the Perpetual 1908 in platinum (ref. 52506) with an “ice blue” guilloché dial of notably high quality. Though identical in almost all respects to the versions in gold, the new 1908 is very different – and significantly more compelling. Initial thoughts Done the traditional way with a hand-operated machine, the guilloché dial gives the watch an entirely different character. The pale blue is also more modern and striking than last year’s colours, which were fairly old fashioned. At the same time, the dial has a slightly glossy finish that gives it an even brighter hue. The guilloché transforms the dial, which was fairly staid in the earlier models. I would still do away with the peculiar hands inspired by the Submariner and other sports watches, but the dial is attractive as it is. The dial is engraved on a hand-operated rose engine Not only does it look better, the platinum 1908 also feels more appealing. It has the same slim profile as the gold versions, but has more heft thanks to the denser case material. More generally, it has the same tactile quality as all Rolex watches – it feels tangibly well made despite the compact size. While the dial is impressive artisanal quality, the rest of the watch is outstanding industrial quality. Though the case is thin, it is exceptionally robust and solid, as is the screw-down ...
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Every Cybertruck Recalled, Matty Matheson’s New Brand, and a New Camera Strap from Peak Design
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Matty Matheson’s Pantry Staples If you’re a fan of the FX series “The Bear,” Matty Matheson needs no introduction. He plays Fak, the heavily tattooed handyman on the series, but his most significant contribution to the series might actually be behind the scenes. Matheson is a chef, and serves as a consultant on the show in addition to his acting duties, ensuring that the kitchen scenes and culinary creations depicted feel authentic. Now he’s launched his own brand, the Matheson Food Company, which will produce all kinds of simple pantry staples (sauces, salad dressings, boxed mac & cheese) with branding that draws heavily on our collective nostalgia for classic brands that were part of his childhood. This piece in Creative Review digs into the new brand and what makes it distinct in the food scene. The First Trailer for M. Night Shyamalan’s Trap It’s possible that the trailer for Trap, the new film from M. Night Shyamalan coming this summer, gives too much away. In the event you want to be completely surprised, I won’t describe it here. But it’s also possible that th...
Fratello
Looking Back At A Lukewarm Watches And Wonders 2024 With Some Hot And Cold Watches
A Watches and Wonders impression is best served cold. A little distance from the fair is necessary to transform impressions into organized thoughts. Six days should do the trick. So, what impression did the biggest watch show on Earth make on me? Well, going through my notes led to this story that includes some hot […] Visit Looking Back At A Lukewarm Watches And Wonders 2024 With Some Hot And Cold Watches to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Atelier Wen Perception Review: An Introduction To Chinese Luxury Watches
A look at the origins of Atelier Wen and the story of the Atelier Wen Perception, a watch that promotes and emphasizes Chinese craftsmanship.
Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Standardizes Water Resistance To 30 Meters Across Its Lineup
The Aquanaut and Nautilus lines have taken a water-resistance hit on paper, but what does that mean from a practical perspective?
Deployant
Live from WWG24: new releases from Parmigiani
And our last and certainly not the least important appointment for the day is with Parmigiani to witness the launch of the new Toric. Live from WWG24: new releases from Parmigiani One of our favourite brands, Parmigiani Fleurier releases revives the Toric collection. The Toric was first released 28 years ago, Parmigiani’s offering in theRead More
Deployant
Live from WWG24: new from Gerald Charles Masterlink
We attended the launch event for Gerald Charles on April 8, and here give our impressions of the novelty of the show. The Masterlink.
Revolution
Exclusive: Top 50 Swiss Watch Companies of 2023 and Future Forecasts With Oliver R Müller | Part II
Presenting part two of Wei and Oliver R Müller’s insightful discussion, where they delve into the triumphs of the Swiss watch industry in 2023. From the dominance of the ‘Big Four’ luxury watch brands to intriguing surprises within the industry, join them as they unravel the fascinating narrative behind the success story of Swiss horology. […]
Quill & Pad
Chronomètre Artisans Subscription Edition by Simon Brette: Sensational, Superlative, and Simply Sublime Independent Watchmaking
Simon Brette is a young movement designer with a history of working with Jean-François Mojon’s Chronode, MCT, and MB&F;, who has now begun his own adventure of pushing the boundaries of traditional haute horlogerie. Brette launches his eponymous brand with the Chronomètre Artisans Subscription Edition, which sold out long before launch.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Big Reveal from Rivian, Voyager 1 Goes Dark, and a Dune Primer
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Voyager 1 May Have Gone Dark The “pale blue dot” image The New York Times reports this week that Voyager 1, the first spacecraft to leave our solar system and venture into interstellar space, may have gone dark. It had a good run: Voyager 1 was launched 46 years ago, and captured scientifically important images of Jupiter and Saturn, and famously turned its camera back home to snap the famous “pale blue dot” image of earth. As Voyager 1 left the gravitational pull of the sun, it continued to send data back to NASA, but that stopped sometime in November of last year, and it seems increasingly likely that the probe is simply adrift in space, capping decades of important research. The sheer distance Voyager 1 has traveled (and will continue to travel, whether it’s transmitting data or not) is simply mind blowing, and the longevity of the mission leaves an emotional void among those who care about this kind of research just as much as a scientific one. A Highly Anticipated New Lens from Sony According to a recent post on sonyalpharumors.com, a new first of its kind lens will s...
Quill & Pad
5 Reasons Why You Should Consider Owning a Colorful Watch
Joshua Munchow explains why people are drawn to brightly colored watches. His personal opinion is that everyone should have at least one bright, colorful watch in their collection and he makes the case for why the excitement around the Tiffany Blue Nautilus is perfectly rational - because colorful watches are awesome!
Teddy Baldassarre
Rado Watches: A History of Mastering High-Tech Ceramics
Once a relative rarity, ceramics have today been firmly established as go-to materials in the luxury watch industry, alongside traditional metals such as gold, steel, and titanium. But no single watchmaker is more associated with ceramics in the horological realm than Rado, which has not only made the tough, scratchproof, hypoallergenic material a core part of its identity but continues to pioneer new frontiers in what can be done with it. Here’s the story behind Rado’s host of technical innovations, from early “hardmetal” alloys to today’s signature high-tech ceramic, and how two of the brand’s milestones from 1962 have become inextricably linked in the modern era. From DiaStar to Diver's Watch Rado was founded in 1917 by brothers Fritz, Ernst, and Werner Schlup, who converted their parents’ home in Lengnau, in the Swiss canton of Bern, into a watch factory. Originally dubbed Schlup & Co.,the family firm started out making movements, becoming an important supplier during the World War II years. Forty years after its foundation, in 1957, the company launched the Rado watch brand, taking its name from the Esperanto word for “wheel.” The very first timepiece made under the new Rado banner was the Golden Horse (modern tribute model above), which was also one of the first wristwatches marketed with an emphasis on its antimagnetic properties. It was the harbinger of the technical innovation that the company would adopt as part of its stock-in-trade going forwa...
WatchAdvice
A LOOK BACK: Omega Speedmaster Professional Hands On Review
With the launch of the latest white dial Speedmaster around the corner, we’ve dug into our archives to bring back our review of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. Almost 5 years on, it still stands up well! Back in 2019, we reviewed the then-current Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. Since then, Omega has given the Speedy a bit of an upgrade with a new movement and a re-designed bracelet and clasp. However, not much else has changed, and with the imminent announcement of Omega’s new suspected White Dial or perhaps a white ceramic Speedmaster on Tuesday 5th March 2024, we thought we would dig into our archives and re-visit this review, and add a few comments within to be in line with the current model. Enjoy this blast from the past! A Bit Of History The Omega Speedmaster is one of Omega’s most iconic watches to date. It has a rich history with roots tied to space travel. Not many people may be aware but the speedmaster models that we have come to admire in this day and age weren’t originally thought of as a watch for space travel. When it was first released in 1957, it was portrayed as a sports and racing chronograph watch as Omega was the official timekeeper of the Olympic games. The classic design cues of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Things changed, however, when NASA decided that it wanted to use the Omega Speedmaster for its manned missions into space, while also being included in the Apollo program. So how exactly did Omega’s Speedmaster go from be...
Deployant
Cars & Watches: 6 Watch and Car Tie up
Just last week, we covered “Spot the Watch: Automotive Journalists”, we decided to continue the automotive theme this week by covering more on watches that has tie up with car manufactures. The relationship with Car Manufacturers and Watch Maisons is what we always described as an on-going love story and one that would probably endRead More
Quill & Pad
6 Steel Sports Watches That are Both (Relatively) Affordable and Definitely Obtainable
Unless you have been residing under a large rock in recent years, you are most probably (and perhaps quite painfully) aware that the classic steel sports watches designed by Gérald Genta for Audemars Piguet (Royal Oak) and Patek Philippe (Nautilus) are both beyond the financial reach of most people and in many cases simply not available even if you can afford them. Here Colin Alexander Smith shares six more affordable and more available sports watches that have caught his eye over the last few years.
Quill & Pad
New Release: MB&F; LM Perpetual EVO Blue
In 2015 with the launch of LM Perpetual. Irish watchmaker and movement designer extraordinaire Stephen McDonnell reinvented the previously breakage-prone perpetual calendar complication and LM Perpetual transformed MB&F; from a serious design-led boutique brand into a very serious horological brand. Now MB&F; has introduced LM Perpetual EVO BLUE, in titanium with light blue dial plate.
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Collector Koen Simon and his Two-Tone Christiaan Van Der Klaauw Orion
Koen Simon is a 28-year-old watch collector from The Netherlands. A regular reader of Quill & Pad, he is a fan of high-end watchmaking. He recently sent us this story about how and why he acquired his rare two-tone Orion timepiece by Christiaan van der Klaauw, which we are pleased to share here.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Piaget Polo 79
In an unsurprising move given recent fads, Piaget just announced the Polo 79, a yellow gold wristwatch that is essentially a remake of the original, with a slightly larger case that captures the proportions of the original and an impressively slim movement. Initial thoughts The Polo 79 is a predictable launch, coming shortly after the Vacheron Constantin 222 and IWC Ingenieur, which are of course products of Piaget’s sister companies. The new Polo sticks to the same formula, gently updating the aesthetics and installing a new movement, but largely preserving the same design. So the Polo 79 can’t be commended for creativity, but it is executed well. That said, creating a new design in the spirit of the original – namely geometric forms, slim, and sporty – would have certainly made it a more interesting watch. The Polo 79 is slightly larger than the original, but substantially thicker thanks to a self-winding movement. The original, on the other hand, was equipped with the quartz cal. 7P, an incredibly thin movement that fit the trends of the time. The increase in size means the new Polo feels like a bulked up version of the original, which was small and flat in keeping with 1980s style. To accommodate modern tastes, the Polo 79 sacrifices the thinness of the original. That is regrettable but forgivable, since it would not be possible to achieve sufficient water resistance (the Polo 79 is rated to 50 m) as well as automatic winding in the dimensions of the original c...
SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Wristmon with In-House Micro-Rotor Movement
To inaugurate its first-ever in-house automatic movement, Konstantin Chaykin created the Wristmon Zebra Piece Unique, a one-off based on the brand’s signature best-seller. Though it retains the familiar “rolling eye” time display, the Zebra is equipped with the K.33-3, a newly-developed automatic movement with a micro-rotor. Initial thoughts Ever since the launch of the Joker, Konstantin Chaykin has continued to iterate on the Wristmon with its amusing “rolling eye” display. While the Zebra might look like more of the same, it is notable for having an all-new, in-house movement, which replaces the ETA and Vaucher movements that powered past Wristmon models. Mr Chaykin has long hinted that a workhorse in-house movement was in the works, an endeavour that was probably accelerated by the difficulty of sourcing components from outside Russia due to the ongoing war and resulting sanctions. With the launch of the K.33-3, Konstantin Chaykin becomes one of the few independent watchmakers with its own self-winding movement, let alone an automatic calibre with a micro-rotor. The K.33-3 is basic in terms of aesthetics and certain specifications, but it is a feat to be applauded, particularly for Mr Chaykin given the relatively scarcity of specialist suppliers close to him. The Zebra is a one-off conceived to debut the new calibre, but we can expect more watches with the K.33-3 in the future. And if Mr Chaykin retains the same pricing for the new models with an in-house mov...
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Collector Koen Simon And His IWC Reference 504 ‘Türler’
Every day Koen Simon looks out for special watches, and a couple months ago he noticed an IWC on an online marketplace that looked rather odd because of three things: the shape of the case, the dial, and a "Türler" signature. So he investigated the history of this beautiful watch and now shares his rather personal love story with it here.
Hodinkee
Patek Discontinues Fan Favorite 5164A, And Other Models As February Price Increases Take Effect
In addition to the Aquanaut Travel Time going away, Patek has trimmed down their Nautilus product line.
SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces a Three-Dimensional “Grand” Complication
Hublot’s flagship launch at LVMH Watch Week 2024 is the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System, an enormous and outlandishly complicated wristwatch that takes a novel approach to each of its key functions: telling the time, winding, and regulation. The time is indicated by rolling cylinders, while the movement is regulated by an inclined flying tourbillon, and the mainsprings wound by a novel mechanism that relies on the linear motion of twin sliding weights. All the mechanical intricacy is visible under a panoramic, wraparound sapphire crystal curved on three different planes. Initial Thoughts Although Hublot is best known for its simpler models like the Classic Fusion, and sometimes gets flak for the basic movements used in those watches, the brand has long specialises in intricately-mechanical complications, most notably the MP-05 LaFerrari with a movement shaped like an automobile engine and the MP-07 with a 40-day power reserve. The MP-10 continues the series in the same oversized, hyper-modern format. The movement combines several unusual complications that have been found elsewhere, but never altogether. These include the cylindrical time display and inclined tourbillon, but more notably the linear winding mechanism. This is probably the most dynamic complication in the watch, since the twin weights on each side of the case will slide up and down with the motion of the wrist. Winding a movement with sliding weights has been tried several times in the past, includin...