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Results for ISO 6425 (Diver's Watch Standard)

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Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire SJX Watches
Patek Philippe watches Apr 21, 2021

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire

One of Franck Muller’s bestselling models, the Vanguard is a modern take on the brand’s signature Cintree Curvex case. Already available in a bewildering variety of sizes, complications, and materials, the line now gets one of its most interesting iterations yet – the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire. Featuring a clear sapphire crystal case, the new Vanguard is interesting beyond its colours and shape. Inside is a hand-wind, in-house movement with a seven-day power reserve. And in the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire Color Dreams, the movement bridges are anodised in a multitude of colours. The Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire Color Dreams Initial thoughts The Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire is typical of modern-day Franck Muller watches – large and flamboyant, especially in the Color Dreams livery. But it also reflects Franck Muller being a vertically-integrated brand – an accomplishment not widely recognised by aficionados – with the in-house form movement that has a weeklong power reserve. With black-coated bridges While the shape of the case is reminiscent of Richard Mille, Franck Muller is the brand responsible for making the tonneau case popular in contemporary watchmaking. The Cintree Curvex was inspired by tonneau-shaped Cartier and Patek Philippe watches of the early 20th century, and became one of the “it” watches of the 1990s. But the new Vanguard’s retail price of about US$150,000 is too much – by a large margin. Skeleton sapphire The Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire i...

Ressence Debuts the Type 1 Spymaster with NFT Artwork SJX Watches
Ressence Debuts Apr 21, 2021

Ressence Debuts the Type 1 Spymaster with NFT Artwork

With a knack for technically innovative yet fun timepieces, Belgian watchmaker Ressence now unveils the Type 1 Spymaster, a limited-edition series of watches – each accompanied by a non-fungible token (NFT) artwork – conceived in collaboration with New York espionage museum Spyscape. NFTs are digital tokens stored on a blockchain – the digital ledgers that also store cryptocurrencies like Bitcoin and Ether – that are essentially assets in digital format. Each of the 21 watches in the Type 1 Spymaster series is accompanied by its own NFT, a unique video artwork referencing the watch that also serves as a certificate of authenticity. The first publicly-available example of the Type 1 Spymaster, numbered “008”, will be offered at Sotheby’s Important Watches auction in Hong Kong on April 23 with an estimate of HK$170,000-300,000, or US$21,000-38,000 (we covered a few highlights from the sale earlier this week). It will be sold to benefit a good cause, with all proceeds going to the Make-a-Wish (UK) Foundation, which works to fulfil the wishes of young children with terminal illnesses. Initial thoughts NFTs have catapulted into prominence in recent months – a digital image sold for US$69 million at Christie’s in March 2021 – becoming the biggest and hottest fad in an era of fads. Watchmakers have jumped on the bandwagon as well, but if there’s a brand that’s NFT ready, it is Ressence. Having both filled a watch case with oil and installed magnets with...

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Flyback Chronograph & Offshore 43 Flying Tourbillon Flyback Chronograph Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Apr 21, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Flyback Chronograph & Offshore 43 Flying Tourbillon Flyback Chronograph

Audemars Piguet has modernised its novelties across collections, introducing next generation movements and new technologies into their creations. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Collection is yet another example, with a more ergonomic and refined case as well as an all-new interchangeable strap system. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Collection is comprised … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Flyback Chronograph & Offshore 43 Flying Tourbillon Flyback Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Torsti Laine Introduces the G3 and V38 SJX Watches
Apr 19, 2021

Torsti Laine Introduces the G3 and V38

A Finnish watchmaker in Switzerland, Torsti Laine has become known for his affordable watches with custom-made dials and attractively modified Unitas movements. Now he is simultaneously unveiling his next generation of watches. One is the Laine G3, an improved version of his bestselling model that’s now available with dials comprised of various materials. It continues to be powered by a Unitas calibre, but now even more elaborately decorated with relief engraving on the three-quarter plate. And the second is the Laine V38, an entirely new model that’s smaller and slimmer thanks to the automatic Vaucher VMF 5401 inside. Like the G3, it will be offered with a variety of mix-material dials. The LA18.1 with its new three-quarter plate decoration Initial thoughts Appealing for the high level of customisation and good finishing, Mr Laine’s watches have long been an accessible yet respectable entry into the world of independent watchmaking. His new models continue to offer the qualities that made his earlier watches a success, while adding a bit more to the mix in terms of finishing and choice. The variety of dial styles and materials will be the biggest selling point, while the new movement engraving might be unnecessarily fancy. The V38, in particular, is something that Mr Laine never offered before in terms of size, which should make it the most appealing to buyers wanting something more classically sized. The V38 With the G3 starting at CHF8,500, the new models are more...

Panerai Ecologico Recycled Materials Tech: Making Recycling Work With The Submersible eLAB-ID And Luminor Marina eSteel Quill & Pad
Panerai Ecologico Recycled Materials Tech Apr 18, 2021

Panerai Ecologico Recycled Materials Tech: Making Recycling Work With The Submersible eLAB-ID And Luminor Marina eSteel

Our planet earth is not doing so swell. Hoping to make a difference, Panerai experiments with new materials and ways to promote conservation. Here Joshua Munchow looks at the brand's innovative use of recycling materials in the new Submersible eLAB-ID PAM1225 and Luminor Marina eSteel watches among other initiatives.

The small change that makes a BIG difference to the new Rolex Explorer II 226570 Time+Tide
Rolex Explorer II 226570 It’s Apr 17, 2021

The small change that makes a BIG difference to the new Rolex Explorer II 226570

It’s fair to say the Rolex releases last week were simply whelming – neither under or over. The highlight of the 2021 collection was the return of the 36mm Explorer and the first ever Explorer in a two-tone configuration. Many expected big changes for the Explorer II, after all, it is the 50th anniversary of … ContinuedThe post The small change that makes a BIG difference to the new Rolex Explorer II 226570 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Panerai Radiomir 8 days Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Panerai Radiomir 8 days Hands-on Apr 17, 2021

Panerai Radiomir 8 days Hands-on Review

Pros: Vintage vibes anyone?8 Day power reserve – In-house Calibre P.5000Beautifully and symmetrically laid out dial Cons: Boutique only PieceFor wrists smaller than 6.5inches, the 45mm case will be too big Would have loved to see more of the P.5000 movement on the case-back Overall Rating: 8.1/10 Value for money – 8.5/10Wearability – 8/10Design – 8/10Build Quality – 8/10  The Panerai Radiomir 8 Days PAM00992, released in 2019 is a tribute and recognition of their past. It is based on the first Radiomir that was released in 1936. The first Radiomir project was developed in 1936 at the request of the Command of the Submarine Group of the Italian Royal Navy, for the commandoes of the Assualt Vehicle Flotilla. This first edition was one of the first specialised diver’s watches in history.  Panerai Radiomir PAM00992 45mm The latest Panerai Radiomir 8 Days PAM00992 is not a one-to-one recreation of the original 1930’s Radiomir, but rather a vintage-inspired design from the original model using modern-day movement, materials, and aesthetics.  Design: The Radiomir 8 days is presented in a 45mm case that has quite a unique finish to it. This is the first Panerai watch (along with the Radiomir California PAM 931) to feature what the brand calls Patina steel. The steel case has been given a matte finish, all thanks to a special coating that is applied from a chemical treatment process.  Panerai Radiomir PAM00992 45mm The 45mm casing comes with detachable wire lugs...

Ready, set, GO! The top 5 sports watches of Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Apr 16, 2021

Ready, set, GO! The top 5 sports watches of Watches & Wonders

This is turning out to be a year of stark contrasts. While some manufacturers insist on microscopic adjustments to tried and trusted case sizes and materials, the flipside of the horological coin is marked by bravado. A bravado in contrasts, from flashing neon sun-yellow ceramic to the demure elegance of brushed silver. Never has our … ContinuedThe post Ready, set, GO! The top 5 sports watches of Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tissot Introduces the Heritage Navigator “Săgeata Orientului” SJX Watches
Tissot Introduces Apr 16, 2021

Tissot Introduces the Heritage Navigator “Săgeata Orientului”

Announced at the end of 2020, the Heritage Navigator “Săgeata Orientului” is a limited edition made for Tissot’s distributor in Romania that recalls the glamorous era of early aviation. Based on Tissot’s world-time wristwatch that’s a remake of the vintage original of the 1950s, the Săgeata Orientului was conceived to mark the 100 years since the founding of CFRNA. Compagnie franco-roumaine de navigation aérienne in full, the CFRNA was a French-Romanian transcontinental airline that flew passengers and mail between Paris and Istanbul in the 1920s before merging into Air France. Translating as “arrow of the orient”, Săgeata Orientului was the original route flown by the CFRNA that included several stops on the way, including Bucharest. Despite taking 21 hours, the CFRNA flight was high-speed travel by the standards of the time, with the same trip by rail taking three days. Initial thoughts Although the Săgeata Orientului is essentially a colour variation of the Tissot world time – originally launched in 2013 for the brand’s 160th anniversary – it is smartly executed, and just as importantly, backed up by a rich historical tale evocative of the glamorous early decades of aviation. And being a Tissot, the Săgeata Orientului is naturally affordable. The US$1800-ish price tag makes it strong value, and an eminently compelling buy (which I first came to know of thanks to Monochrome). The only downside of the watch is inherent to the Heritage Navig...

5 watches spotted at our first Sydney Club Event in what felt like decades! Time+Tide
Apr 15, 2021

5 watches spotted at our first Sydney Club Event in what felt like decades!

What before COVID was a regular, and totally normal, occurrence – meeting up at a bar with friends to drink gin and talk watches – is, in 2021, wildly exotic. And the Time+Tide team enjoyed every minute of it, when we congregated with a group of Time+Tide Club members at Eileen’s Bar in Surry Hills … ContinuedThe post 5 watches spotted at our first Sydney Club Event in what felt like decades! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTERVIEW: What we learnt from Nick English about Bremont’s grand plans for The Wing Time+Tide
Bremont s grand plans Apr 15, 2021

INTERVIEW: What we learnt from Nick English about Bremont’s grand plans for The Wing

Editor’s note: A few weeks after Bremont opened the doors of its impressive new watchmaking facilities, The Wing, our European editor Mike Christensen was treated to a guided tour from the British brand’s co-founder Nick English, to see what all the fuss is about. Gobsmacked, absolutely gobsmacked. It was like someone had transported me to … ContinuedThe post INTERVIEW: What we learnt from Nick English about Bremont’s grand plans for The Wing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Montblanc Introduces the Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Apr 15, 2021

Montblanc Introduces the Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon

One of the most interesting new releases from Montblanc at Watches & Wonders 2021 is the Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon, a technically impressive movement fused with a sparkly aventurine-glass dial. It’s equipped with a larger-than-usual balance wheel positioned above the dial, seemingly suspended but actually part of the tourbillon regulator. Initial thoughts Introduced at SIHH 2018, the Suspended Exo Tourbillon movement was most recently seen in an open-worked variant unveiled last year. Despite not being new in terms of mechanics, the new Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon is different enough from its predecessors – and still powered by the same fine movement. Very much living up to the Star Legacy model name, the aventurine-glass is restrained and modern, especially when combined with the white gold case, giving it a different look from the earlier models that were in rose gold. Typical of Montblanc’s higher-end watches made at the former Minerva manufacture in Villeret – as opposed to its more affordable timepieces, manufactured at the main facility in Le Locle – the Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon is remarkably well-finished. Worlds apart from Montblanc’s entry-level tourbillon in terms of movement decoration, the movement is also more traditionally finished than comparably priced alternatives such as the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon. However, because the movement was derived from the pocket watch calibres developed by M...

Now for something completely different: Ulysse Nardin at Watches & Wonders 2021 Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Apr 14, 2021

Now for something completely different: Ulysse Nardin at Watches & Wonders 2021

Celebrating their 175th anniversary this year, Ulysse Nardin is a tried and true manufacture with rich heritage and history. Established in 1846, Ulysse Nardin built its name by fabricating some of the most reliable and high-quality marine chronometers. While most brands of their age remain stuck in the past, refusing to depart from their classic … ContinuedThe post Now for something completely different: Ulysse Nardin at Watches & Wonders 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Nonantième SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Apr 14, 2021

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Nonantième

Marking its 90th anniversary this year, the Reverso is the only truly successful reversible wristwatch. Jaeger-LeCoultre has long utilised the twin sides of the Reverso case for complications, and now for the first time equips the flip side with a digital hour display. The Reverso Tribute Nonantième – nonantième is French for “ninetieth” – has a conventional front, but an unusual reverse decorated in blue lacquer that features a “semi-jumping hour”, disc minutes, along with a day and night display. Front and back Initial thoughts From the front the Nonantième is hard to distinguish from other Reversos, but from the back it is immediately interesting with its digital hour and disc-type minutes. The reverse face is attractive and certainly unique, but the movement inside is more familiar. Though the cal. 826 is new, it is evidently derived from the cal. 853/854 in the various Reverso Duoface models, being similar in principle but different in indications. It’s mechanically novel, though the fact that the hour display is “semi jumping” rather than actual jumping is regrettable. The reverse display with digital hours Rectangular (or even tonneau) watches usually lose their elegance beyond a certain size, and the Nonantième is close to the limit. At 49.4 mm by 29.9 mm, the Nonantième is a big watch, identical in size to other extra-large models in the Reverso line up, making it suited for larger wrists. At a bit over US$40,000, the Nonantième feels p...

INTRODUCING: Supersized gem-set bezels bring the dazzle with the Bulgari Allegra Time+Tide
Bulgari Allegra Jewellery Apr 13, 2021

INTRODUCING: Supersized gem-set bezels bring the dazzle with the Bulgari Allegra

Jewellery and watches have always been interlinked, but there is a quantum leap from a gem-set bezel to the intricate wrist-worn jewellery of Bulgari. Set deep within their Roman DNA, the pure exuberance of the Italian Dolce Vita comes alive in the Bulgari Allegra. This is dazzling joie de vivre on a strap that willfully … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Supersized gem-set bezels bring the dazzle with the Bulgari Allegra appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin delivers the dazzle of diamonds in the Égérie collection Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin delivers Apr 12, 2021

Vacheron Constantin delivers the dazzle of diamonds in the Égérie collection

The new Égérie collection from Vacheron Constantin presents the beguiling combination of Haute Horlogerie with Haute Couture. Merely seeing the photos makes me jealous of my wife, as this is something I surely cannot classify as unisex. But maybe for once, that’s a good thing. While citing inspiration from the world of high fashion, there … ContinuedThe post Vacheron Constantin delivers the dazzle of diamonds in the Égérie collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 12, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar

Shortly after launching the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A in green, Patek Philippe is taking the covers off something far more serious in terms of mechanics – the Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar. Clearly inspired by vintage perpetual calendar watches like the refs. 3448 and 3450 (and a dial that’s modelled on a vintage Calatrava), the ref. 5236P is ranks as amongst the most notable Patek Philippe calendar watches of recent years – both in terms of design as well as its newly-developed movement. Bearing a close resemblance to the ref. 5235 Annual Calendar – an under-appreciated watch that I regard highly – the new ref. 5236P is equipped with a built-from-scratch calendar module that’s as complicated as some entire perpetual calendar movements. And it is powered by a refined and improved version of the uncommon cal. 31-260 micro-rotor movement that was so far only found in the ref. 5235. The cal. 31-260 PS QL in the new ref. 5236 An under-dial view of the calendar mechanism with the four co-planar discs at top Initial thoughts While clearly inspired by historical designs, the ref. 5236P manages to be different – and the most compelling perpetual calendar in Patek Philippe’s catalogue. The design heritage is clear: the ref. 5236P shares the same case style as the ref. 5235 annual calendar (which I like). Admittedly the ref. 5236P perhaps a bit too big to be as elegant as Patek Philippe’s most refined cases, but the size combined with the distinctive design m...

Up Close: Arnold & Son Luna Magna SJX Watches
Arnold & Son Apr 11, 2021

Up Close: Arnold & Son Luna Magna

Announced at Watches & Wonders 2021, the Arnold & Son Luna Magna boasts an exceptionally large spherical moon phase display that sits serenely on a dial made of aventurine glass. Powered by an in-house movement like all Arnold & Son (A&S;) watches, the Luna Magna typifies the sort of smartly-executed simple complications that A&S; excels at. The hand-wind movement is sharply finished, while the moon phase sphere is an unusual combination of two halves in aventurine glass and white marble. Initial thoughts The Luna Magna has simple but striking aesthetics. The dial is symmetrical and made up of classical details like Romain numerals and blued hands. But it has a very, very large moon phase display that’s also spherical. So it doesn’t try to do very much – the dial shows hours, minutes, and age of the moon – but it does the moon phase well. A&S; describes it as the “largest moon ever built into a wristwatch”, which I do not dispute in principle, and it certainly looks the part. But strictly speaking, “ever” is inaccurate, for the spherical moon in the Konstantin Chaykin Lunokhod is the same 12 mm in diameter. While A&S; did have extra-large moon phase display in a past model, it was a flat moon phase, lacking the three-dimensionality of the Luna Magna. That size of the moon sphere means it requires substantial clearance under the crystal, which leaves the total case height, including the crystal, a tall 15.9 mm. The moon seen from the back The movement inside is...

INTRODUCING: Same shape, different recycled materials. Panerai take sustainability to the next level… Time+Tide
Panerai take sustainability Apr 10, 2021

INTRODUCING: Same shape, different recycled materials. Panerai take sustainability to the next level…

Panerai maintains a strong focus on sustainability. This is expressed through the construction and metallurgy of their watches, right down to recycled materials for their fabric and leather straps. Their new Luminor Marina eSTEEL™ is the latest example of this valiant endeavour. Throw in Panerai’s generosity in making their own research publicly accessible and their … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Same shape, different recycled materials. Panerai take sustainability to the next level… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum collection turns the volume up to 11 Time+Tide
Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum collection Apr 10, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum collection turns the volume up to 11

You know the phrase “Business on the outside, party on the inside”? Well Zenith has flipped that with the new, very limited-edition Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum line. The business is on the inside with that magnificent dual-escapement El Primero 9004 automatic movement – but there’s no doubting that it’s party time on the outside. A … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum collection turns the volume up to 11 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Unveils the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Unveils Apr 10, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Unveils the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine

First revealed in 2015 inside the Harmony Grande Ultra-Thin Complication Chronograph, the cal. 3500 is a thin, split-seconds chronograph movement with a beautiful construction and novel peripheral winding mechanism. After a brief hiatus, the cal. 3500 has returned at Watches & Wonders 2021 with the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin Collection Excellence Platine. Cleaner and more formal in style than the Harmony of 2015, the new Traditionnelle split-seconds boasts the same gorgeous cal. 3500, and because it’s a Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) edition, a solid platinum dial. Vacheron Constantin is on a roll with the CEP watches in 2021, with the Traditionnelle split-seconds being the second CEP edition for the year, after the elegant and quirky American 1921. Initial thoughts I was wowed by the cal. 3500 when it made its debut in the Harmony split-seconds chronograph in 2015, and found it a shame that the movement disappeared from the catalogue. The cal. 3500 deserved to be revived, and now it has been. Beautifully traditional in its construction and endowed with intricate and elegant details, the cal. 3500 is one of the finest modern-day chronograph movements. Beyond its aesthetics, it is also exceptionally thin at just 5.2 mm high, making it a feat of construction. And it is also innovative with its peripheral winding mechanism, which is admittedly not new but almost never found on classically handsome movements. The cal. 3500 The Traditionnelle sp...

King Nerd writes touching personal tribute to the late Prince Philip Time+Tide
Apr 10, 2021

King Nerd writes touching personal tribute to the late Prince Philip

Editor’s note: King Nerd is someone you’re likely to have seen pop up on Time+Tide over the years. Most recently, he was part of our “11 Days of Londoners” series. But since then, he has been prolific to say the least with collaborations spanning George Bamford and Franck Muller, to Dr Martens and even Jaguar. … ContinuedThe post King Nerd writes touching personal tribute to the late Prince Philip appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu II: A trio in ceramic unlike anything you’ve ever seen Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu Apr 10, 2021

INTRODUCING: Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu II: A trio in ceramic unlike anything you’ve ever seen

When Time+Tide last looked at a Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu II, we described it as a “geometric ice palace” for the wrist. Well, the three new Sang Bleu II ceramic editions – coming in grey, blue and white – contain one colour that not only doubles down on that idea but also answers the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu II: A trio in ceramic unlike anything you’ve ever seen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.