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New: Zenith Chronomaster Original - a successor to the A386
Zenith presents the long awaited successor to the A386 with the new Chronomaster Original in a 21st century rendition of the iconic El Primero.
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Deployant
Zenith presents the long awaited successor to the A386 with the new Chronomaster Original in a 21st century rendition of the iconic El Primero.
SJX Watches
Though Zenith celebrated the 50th anniversary of its iconic chronograph movement in 2019, it took a while longer for the long-awaited successor to the original El Primero. Looking like yet another remake on the surface – the design is almost a dead ringer for the A386 of 1969 – the retro styling of the new Chronomaster Original belies the latest-generation El Primero, the all-new cal. 3600 that boasts a lightning seconds hand. Initial thoughts The Chronomaster Original essentially repackages the vintage A386, preserving the distinctive design while installing a modern movement. As a result, the watch is familiar and appealing in broad strokes, but has a few surprises in its details. Take the dials for instance, which are offered in two guises. One is the traditional “tri-colour” from 1969, while the other is an unusual and gorgeous “panda” dial that stands out from its counterparts. Ironically, the black-and-silver dial looks more retro, in part due to the faux-vintage lume, despite not having the original colour palette. The case is a compact 38 mm, identical to the vintage original. It’s heartening – but surprising – to see the return of the 38 mm case, which was ostensibly retired not too long ago. The move back to the 38 mm case makes sense, since it accommodates enthusiasts who prefer a size true to the vintage original, as well as catering to prevailing fad for classical, elegant style. Despite the case being the same diameter as it was in 1969, t...
WatchAdvice
Let’s rewind a little, back to 2019. Zenith was celebrating the 50th anniversary of the El Primero and presented a box of 3 watches limited to 50 sets. Included in the set was the highly sought after A386 re-edition in steel. The only way to get your hands on this piece was to buy the box set, which came with a fourth slot for a forth-coming “1/1000th of a second” chronograph, to be released at a later time. Yes there were other A386 anniversary editions that can be had separately, but they came in precious metal. What people wanted was the steel A386. Zenith kept teasing the market with various versions of it, but not the exact iconic version that was released in 1969, as one of the first to house this ground-breaking chronograph movement. Then in 2020, the Manufacture edition dropped, with a prototype dial that was found in a little box up in the attic where Charles Vermot hid the tools, parts, and plans to build the El Primero back in 1975. The idea was that you could only purchase the Manufacture edition when you visit the Zenith Manufacture. Sort of like a gift shop purchase at the end of the tour. It would be extremely difficult to come by as you’d have to have made the trip to Switzerland to pick one up. Look, we gotta give it up to the product designers and planners. hats off to Romain Marietta, who probably has one of the best jobs in the industry. This was a superb idea. This guaranteed exclusivity and collectability. But then we all knew what happene...
Quill & Pad
Working very closely with Bovet, the Rolls-Royce Boat Tail comes with two custom-made his and hers watches that can be placed into a special holder in the car to serve as dashboard clocks. For Bovet, this is almost a natural development as these watches feature special versions of the Amadeo case, allowing them to be quickly and easily transformed from wristwatch to pocket watch, pendant, or desk clock. This pairing truly gives new meaning to the word luxury.
Hodinkee
Watches we love, the second time around.
SJX Watches
Seiko has long incorporated Japan’s unique pop culture into its watches – from Gundam to Street Fighter – and now it’s turned to the legendary anime film studio behind hits like Spirited Away. The Presage Studio Ghibli Castle In The Sky is inspired by the 1986 anime film about a pair of children protecting a magic crystal from government agents. Despite the cartoon inspiration, the new Presage has a classical design with Breguet hands, a fired-enamel dial – and no date window. Initial thoughts The Castle in the Sky edition gets a few things right. It combines a few specialties of Seiko – the fired enamel dial, Japanese pop culture, and a modern, workhorse movement – all for under US$1,500. That said, the mid-range price is novel for a collaborative model in this vein, since the brand’s earlier crossover editions were either priced substantially higher (as a Grand Seiko) or lower (a Seiko 5). Also notable is the no-date dial. While Seiko has long offered enamel dials in affordable watches, it usually installs a date function on the three-hand models, perhaps a concession to the brand’s focus on fuss-free practicality for its watches. Leaving out the date is not only significant from a philosophical standpoint – perhaps it’s an admission the design matters more than its utility – but the omission of a date aperture makes for a higher quality look. The date window never looked good, especially since the aperture revealed the relatively rough edges...
Revolution
In a wonderful philanthropic gesture, Richard Mille is donating the proceeds from one of its latest limited releases to good causes in St Barths.
Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Söhne recently introduced a new model: the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar, the least complicated perpetual calendar that A. Lange & Söhne has ever made. And, as Joshua Munchow explains in detail, it's a truly gorgeous way to "time travel."
Hodinkee
A long time ago, on a watch blog not so very far away ...
Quill & Pad
Humans have long had a fascination with the depths of the ocean, striving to go ever deeper, ever further, and ever faster by pushing the limits of the human body, technology, and advancing modern science. But like all things, we are often faced with limits. Enter the helium escape valve.
Quill & Pad
With auction prices soaring, it was a good time for an auction house to be offering rare timepieces by the world’s best independent watchmakers. And a 1999 Millennium wristwatch by George Daniels and Roger Smith offered in Bonhams' sale on June 16, 2021 set an auction record for a British-made wristwatch!
Time+Tide
Revitalisation is exactly what we're getting this year with the new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 collection.The post The new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 collection is a truly modern dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
There has been a lot of talk and promises made by the watch industry about ceramics and their use in timepieces, so it would seem that a primer on the subject might make us much more informed consumers. And Joshua Munchow delivers that here.
Hodinkee
Monochrome teamed up with one of the best in the biz for a special collaboration – and the results speak for themselves.
Revolution
Wei Koh, founder of The Rake & Revolution explains why we’ve embarked on the Pink Dial Project and why breast cancer awareness
Revolution
With tongue firmly in cheek, UNDONE announces the Stellar chronograph, the perfect party watch to make summer of 2021 unlike any you’ve celebrated before.
Time+Tide
Feel free to judge me. After reading my story on wanting a demure 36mm Carrera reissue in 18K gold on a leather strap, you might think I’m losing my marbles buying this dazzling all-metal purple G-Shock, the CasioGMWB5000RD-4. While supposedly red, close-up it’s a vibrant flash of mad purple-ish burgundy. And boy does it it … ContinuedThe post Am I too old for a purple G-Shock? Don’t ask my kids. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Collaboration watches are all the rage these days. Some scoff at the saturation, but many recognise the value a second eye brings to new designs. Each brand may have their own design DNA, but combining forces can add extra perspective and attention to detail. That is exactly what we have here today with the new … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Habring² x Monochrome Montre de Souscription 1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
And the complications of bringing a watch back to life.
Time+Tide
Titanium, generally speaking, is an under-utilised watchmaking material. It’s super light on your wrist, the darker tone of the metal looks great (especially when it’s sandblasted) and it’s still hard-wearing enough to handle anything you might throw at it during your day-to-day. After the success of TAG Heuer’s titanium collaboration with Bamford, we now have … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 in titanium is a lightweight delight appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
It's about time (for some vintage watches in the HODINKEE Shop).
Hodinkee
A pair of GOATs and a trip of watches.
Hodinkee
Now that we've made it to Memorial Day, the time for white watches has come.
Hodinkee
Zach Weiss opens his Trapper Keeper of inspiration.
Hodinkee
"Introduce a little anarchy accuracy, upset the established order, and everything becomes chaos. I'm an agent of chaos..." - The Joker.
Hodinkee
For me, it’s a lot of the same qualities that lend style points to clothes.
Hodinkee
There's plenty of firepower in the evening auction this weekend.
Hodinkee
Watches we love, the second time around.
Hodinkee
Part of a trio of new GMT watches in the brand's Sport Collection.
Hodinkee
The wonderful, weird, and wild of contemporary horology go head-to-head-to-head.
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