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eBay Finds: A Hard to Find Seiko Diver, a Dressy Omega, and a Couple of Cool Vintage Chronos Worn & Wound
Bulova Chronograph  Here’s Sep 26, 2025

eBay Finds: A Hard to Find Seiko Diver, a Dressy Omega, and a Couple of Cool Vintage Chronos

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Seiko Sportsmatic SilverWave 69799  Starting off this week with a killer vintage Seiko, and one you don’t see for sale often. This 1964 Sportsmatic SilverWave is just really cool. The SilverWave is one of Seiko’s earliest divers, with a water resistance rating of 30 meters and an internal rotating countdown bezel. The 38mm steel case is a great size, and it’s in good shape. The original crown is at 4 o’clock, and when it’s in the “in” position, you can turn it to rotate the inner bezel. The silver dial is nice, showing a touch of aging as is the bezel. The snap-on caseback still shows the Seiko wave log and the serial number which dates it to April 1964. The automatic movement is clean and it runs well per the seller. This comes on a Seiko beads of rice bracelet which isn’t original, but looks great. Nice example of a hard to find early Seiko diver! View auction here Vintage Bulova Chronograph  Here’s a real beauty, a vintage Bulova chronograph that features a stunning slate blue dial with dual silver subdials. The 37mm squarish case looks good, still exhibiting the original brushed finish on the top. The dial looks mint, with nice steel stick markers and hands. Ther...

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The Evergreens – The Complete History of the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Monochrome
TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Few chronographs Sep 26, 2025

The Evergreens – The Complete History of the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph

Few chronographs capture the spirit of their era as vividly as the Heuer Monaco. Born at the crossroads of watchmaking tradition and a rapidly changing world, it arrived in 1969 with angles as sharp as the decade itself. Following our article covering the story of the Heuer Carrera Chronograph, we now look at the history […]

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Bremont’s New Direction: Davide Cerrato on Challenges, Vision, and British Watchmaking Worn & Wound
Bremont s New Direction Davide Sep 26, 2025

Bremont’s New Direction: Davide Cerrato on Challenges, Vision, and British Watchmaking

It’s not hyperbole to say that Bremont’s presentation at Watches & Wonders 2024 was one of the most hotly discussed and contentious events in the watch industry in years. The British brand, long associated with their founders, brothers Nick and Giles English, was now under the control of a new CEO, watch industry veteran Davide Cerrato, and a new ownership group. We knew ahead of time that the watches presented at the show would represent a new direction for the brand, one that would apparently see them reaching for the mass market, well beyond the deep enthusiast core audience they had cultivated so carefully since the brand’s founding. What we didn’t know at the time was the watches, a new logo, and a surprising new look and feel for the brand itself would cause so much consternation.  It’s a common complaint that watch media types are soft on watches that are objectively bad. Think of all the times you’ve seen a comment on an Instagram post or a watch article asking sarcastically if a piece of editorial content is bought and paid for by a brand. That somewhat ridiculous line of thinking is a topic for another day, but I think it’s fair to say no one accused any real writer of being soft on Bremont during Watches & Wonders 2024 and in the weeks shortly thereafter. Our own post was, I thought, a fairly balanced critique compared to some. My opinion in the days after the show was very much a first, hazy impression of a brand that had suddenly lost its footin...

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Hands-On With The New Formex Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC 41mm Fratello
Formex Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC Sep 26, 2025

Hands-On With The New Formex Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC 41mm

Earlier this year, Formex surprised us with the skeletonized Formex Essence Ceramica. It showcased just how far the brand could push modern materials and finishing at an accessible price point. The sleek, all-ceramic case and bracelet showcased Formex’s technical prowess, while the skeletonized dial guaranteed a big visual statement. Now Formex returns with a solid-dial […] Visit Hands-On With The New Formex Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC 41mm to read the full article.

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From the Seiko SKX to the SPB317: How I Fell in Love with Seiko Again Worn & Wound
Seiko SKX Sep 25, 2025

From the Seiko SKX to the SPB317: How I Fell in Love with Seiko Again

At the end of summer 2014, Dad gave me my first mechanical watch. There was nothing ceremonial about it; he simply handed me the box in the car. “I’m starting a new tradition, and it’s a grown-up gift since you’re heading to college,” he said. I looked down at the box. It said Seiko. I was familiar with the brand. In fact, it was what I had been wearing up to that point: reference SNE039, a mid-sized solar-powered watch that Grandpa gave me when he saw me showing interest in it. I still have it. But this Seiko was different. It was a reference SKX173, a sibling of the beloved SKX007 dive watch that has led many a good man down the rabbit hole. It had a waterproof case, rotating dive bezel that I had no clue how to operate, and most importantly, an automatically winding movement.  “It’s easy – just shake it a bit to get it going,” said Dad. (OGs will remember the caliber 7s26’s lack of hand winding). I took the watch out of the box and shuffled it back and forth gently to coax it to life. It did, and as I stared at the sweeping seconds hand, I marveled that a microscopic team of gears, levers, and springs were all working harmoniously just to tell time. As an incoming engineering student, I couldn’t have asked for a better gift. I secured the black rubber strap on my wrist, and that was that. The remainder of the summer was spent reading everything I could get my hands on about Seiko watches and mechanical timekeeping at large. The excitement of movin...

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Tissot’s Beating Heart: The Powermatic 80 And Powermatic 80 COSC Fratello
Tissot s Beating Heart Sep 25, 2025

Tissot’s Beating Heart: The Powermatic 80 And Powermatic 80 COSC

Tissot is one of our favorite brands here at Fratello. The company’s blend of history and industry-leading value also makes it a popular pick among buyers. Often, at the heart of this value proposition is an impressive movement. The Powermatic 80 has been in production since 2012, but it still offers impressive specs. Watches such […] Visit Tissot’s Beating Heart: The Powermatic 80 And Powermatic 80 COSC to read the full article.

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Seiko Tank Review: This $210 Dress Watch Is A Hidden Gem Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Sep 24, 2025

Seiko Tank Review: This $210 Dress Watch Is A Hidden Gem

Seiko has no shortage of dress watches, many of which come from the Presage collection, which boasts some of the best values out there. That said, I recently came across a watch that not only comes from the Japanese brand's more basic, entry-level Essentials collection, but is actually the cheapest Seiko out there at the moment. Yes, the Seiko SWR064 is affectionately dubbed the Seiko Tank for obvious reasons, but there is something distinctly Japanese about it. I had my initial doubts about this watch, but when factoring in the design, style, and price, there was no real way of getting around the fact that this is a starter dress watch that exudes value. Let's get into why. Seiko "Tank" Case The case of this Seiko “Tank” is done in stainless steel, with a gold-plated finish that really fits in with the retro styling. I’m usually really turned off by gold-plating but the cohesiveness with the dial elements pulls it together. As for the size, it measures 27.9mm wide, 38.5mm tall, and 6.7mm thick (30 meters of water resistance). For the sake of comparison, the Cartier Tank Louis “Extra Large” comes in at 27.75mm wide, 38.1mm tall, and 8.18mm thick, so the sizes are very close. There’s not a lot of chatter about this watch out there but I did notice some people say it’s too big to be anything like a Tank, which is demonstrably false. The similarities don’t stop there, as the positioning of the brancards is similar - though I do wish they were just a little b...

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Hands-On With The Louis Moinet 1806 Chronomètre d’Observatoire Fratello
Louis Moinet Sep 24, 2025

Hands-On With The Louis Moinet 1806 Chronomètre d’Observatoire

I have had the pleasure of covering releases from Louis Moinet for several years. By and large, most of the watches have featured wild complications and materials. They’ve been fun, limited, and expensive. Therefore, when the brand debuted the 1816 Chronograph at Watches and Wonders 2025, we took notice due to its more modern design. […] Visit Hands-On With The Louis Moinet 1806 Chronomètre d’Observatoire to read the full article.

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Modding To The Max: The Artisans De Genève Absolute Ruby Surpasses Anything The Watch Workshop Did Before Fratello
Sep 24, 2025

Modding To The Max: The Artisans De Genève Absolute Ruby Surpasses Anything The Watch Workshop Did Before

You may very well be looking at the pinnacle of watch modding. The Artisans de Genève Absolute Ruby is a personalized creation with a price tag of US$550,000 hanging from it. As the name suggests, rubies take center stage in this world-famous chronograph, which initially looked more humble when the client handed it over to […] Visit Modding To The Max: The Artisans De Genève Absolute Ruby Surpasses Anything The Watch Workshop Did Before to read the full article.

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Owner’s Review: a Collector’s Perspective on the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Worn & Wound
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sep 23, 2025

Owner’s Review: a Collector’s Perspective on the Bulgari Octo Finissimo

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic first debuted at Baselworld 2017, and I remember every journalist I ran into, telling me to go check out the Bulgari booth. I met with Pascal Brandt (then marketing manager), and a genuine watch geek I had known for some time. He showed me Octo Finissimo Automatic in titanium, and it was a “Wow” moment. I felt like I was holding a future classic in my hands, comparable to someone holding the Royal Oak for the first time in Basel in 1972 (and yes, there is a Genta connection). I had a couple of initial thoughts when I first experienced the Octo – I knew Bulgari had already made two of the slimmest complication Octo Finissimo’s in 2015 and 2016, but I chalked that to a fashion brand making a high complication for their wealthiest clients. But this was different, Bulgari managed to pull off the slimmest automatic watch that is lightweight, yet durable, with a micro-rotor movement for about $12,000. The second thought was that this is something special and, for me, a must own piece. Before I get into the ownership aspect of the Octo, I will give a brief history on how Bulgari got elevated to a serious watchmaking brand. The story of Bulgari’s transformation from a luxury fashion brand to a high-end watchmaker began in the year 2000. The watch industry was struggling after the late 1990’s financial crisis. In July 2000, Bulgari paid 37.6 million Swiss francs to acquire Gerald Genta SA, Daniel Roth SA, as well as Manufacture de Ha...

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Ōtsuka Lōtec Debuts the New No. 9, an Experiment in Haute Horology Worn & Wound
Sep 23, 2025

Ōtsuka Lōtec Debuts the New No. 9, an Experiment in Haute Horology

Ōtsuka Lōtec had a viral moment over the weekend with the surprise launch of the No. 9, the latest creation from the Japanese microbrand headed by designer and watchmaker Jiro Katayama. These watches have captured the attention and imagination of enthusiasts worldwide for their unique steampunk aesthetic, filtered through a unique Japanese industrial design perspective. Up until now, their watches have been defined by interesting complications (wandering hours, retrograde displays, etc.) at ultra competitive price points topping out at around $5,000, and being genuinely difficult to obtain outside of Japan thanks to extremely limited production and simply not being offered to en masse to those outside the country. With the No. 9, it certainly appears that Ōtsuka Lōtec will continue to make watches that are tough to obtain, but they’ve thrown the pricing structure out the window with this release, offering up a far more complicated watch than anything they’ve previously attempted.  The No. 9 is a rectangular watch in a stainless steel case measuring 41.3mm by 26.4mm. It’s 10.35mm tall, which makes this a quite compact package, and all the more impressive given the mechanical complexity. Going through the list of features and mechanical complications here is going to be a bit like the Stefon sketch on SNL (“This watch has everything…”) so let’s just embrace it: across 278 components, this watch features a tourbillon, a jump hour, “rewinding minutes,” a...

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First Look – Girard-Perregaux Launches the Calibre GP4800, its Next-Gen, In-House Movement with a Silicon Escapement Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Launches Sep 23, 2025

First Look – Girard-Perregaux Launches the Calibre GP4800, its Next-Gen, In-House Movement with a Silicon Escapement

Girard-Perregaux has an extensive track record in watchmaking and is one of the most enduring integrated manufactures of the Swiss watch industry. In the 1980s, at a time when the quartz crisis had crippled mechanical watchmaking, the brand was among the first to champion the renaissance of traditional movements. Today, Girard-Perregaux announces the launch of […]

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Audemars Piguet Joins Watches & Wonders 2026 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Joins Watches & Wonders Sep 23, 2025

Audemars Piguet Joins Watches & Wonders 2026

Having last exhibited in Geneva six years ago, Audemars Piguet (AP) will return next year as an exhibitor at Watches & Wonders 2026 (WWG). The brand had departed the predecessor of WWG, Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), in 2019 along with Richard Mille, opting instead to launch the latest products at its own events. AP’s return to the exhibition reflects the importance of WWG as the most important trade fair on the horological calendar. It also underlines the importance of exhibiting alongside respected peers. The central hall at WWG 2025 Alongside AP, another ten brands will be showing at the event, ranging from clockmaker L’Epée 1839 to Chinese watchmaker Behrens, as well as Credor (the sister brand of current exhibitor Grand Seiko), and Favre Leuba, a recently rebooted historical name. This brings the total exhibitor tally to 66, a number that includes giants like Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, and Cartier. WWG will take place April 14-20, 2026, at Palexpo.  

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Fratello On Air: Currently Available Watches Offering The Best Value Fratello
Sep 23, 2025

Fratello On Air: Currently Available Watches Offering The Best Value

We’re back with another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we’re tackling a timely subject (no pun intended). With prices up over the last five years, we discuss watches that offer the best value at various price points. Oh, but there’s a caveat: the pieces we discuss are actually available. For the benefit of […] Visit Fratello On Air: Currently Available Watches Offering The Best Value to read the full article.

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Is The Tudor Heritage Ranger A Future Neo-Vintage Classic? Fratello
Tudor Heritage Ranger Sep 21, 2025

Is The Tudor Heritage Ranger A Future Neo-Vintage Classic?

It should come as no surprise to those who regularly read my work that I’m a fan of Tudor watches. In fact, to mark a significant personal milestone, I bought a Tudor Black Bay 58 for my 30th birthday. Today, though, we’re looking at a very different watch, the Tudor Heritage Ranger. This is not […] Visit Is The Tudor Heritage Ranger A Future Neo-Vintage Classic? to read the full article.

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After 270 Years, Vacheron Constantin Reaches Beyond Watchmaking With La Quête Du Temps Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Reaches Beyond Watchmaking Sep 20, 2025

After 270 Years, Vacheron Constantin Reaches Beyond Watchmaking With La Quête Du Temps

If asked which was more impressive, it would be hard for me to choose between the La Quête du Temps clock unveiled at the Louvre in Paris or the staff of Vacheron Constantin putting on a surprising show of music and dance in the Genevan manufacture the next day. “VC” started its celebration of 270 […] Visit After 270 Years, Vacheron Constantin Reaches Beyond Watchmaking With La Quête Du Temps to read the full article.

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Fortis Introduces the Stratoliner S-41 Reentry Edition, with a Heat Treated Titanium Dial Worn & Wound
Fortis Introduces Sep 19, 2025

Fortis Introduces the Stratoliner S-41 Reentry Edition, with a Heat Treated Titanium Dial

Space, fire, time. These things are elemental, conduits to deep discussions about our place in the universe, and the nature of life itself. What does it all mean? It’s the stuff of 3:00 AM dorm room deep dives, the kinds of conversations that happen after watching 2001 for the first time. Every so often, a piece of art, or an object (or even a watch!) scratches at these ideas. That’s what I started to ponder, anyway, when I first read about the new Fortis Stratoliner S-41 Reentry Edition, a striking new version of their spacefaring chronograph with a unique (literally) dial with one of the more interesting concepts behind it that I’ve seen this year.  The highlight here, as you can likely derive from the images, is the dial that has been heat treated by hand. The inspiration comes from spacecraft reentering the earth’s atmosphere. This happens at an incredibly high rate of speed – roughly 15,000 miles per hour. At that velocity, the friction caused by the spacecraft as it comes in contact with the atmosphere essentially turns said spacecraft into a small, fast moving, fireball. Have you seen Apollo 13? Then you know basically how this works. A heat shield designed to control that burn keeps astronauts on board safe, and the critical structure of the spacecraft intact.  According to Fortis, every Reentry Edition dial is heat treated by hand and completely unique, thanks to the unpredictable nature of the impact of fire on the titanium surface. The heat produces ...

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Grand Seiko Goes Gold SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Goes Gold Grand Seiko Sep 19, 2025

Grand Seiko Goes Gold

Grand Seiko has unveils three gold Spring Drive models with the new 9RA2 movement, the Japan-only Heritage Collection SLGA030, SLGA027 and SLGA028, in rose, white, and yellow gold respectively. The new collection benefits from a slimmer case, a longer power reserve, and some new dials to go with the satisfying heft of a full 18k gold bracelet that weighs in at almost 200 g. SLGA030 in rose gold. Initial Thoughts While mostly unknown outside Japan, a trio of gold Spring Drive models in 44GS-style cases on full gold bracelets were a staple of the domestic Grand Seiko catalog for nearly a decade, powered by the cal. 9R15 that was once the brand’s finest automatic Spring Drive movement. While identical to the cal. 9R65, save for a gold medallion on the rotor, Seiko set aside the best performing quartz timing packages for these special movements. The earlier generation of all-gold models, from left to right: SBGA364, SBGA361, and SBGA362. Grand Seiko has decided that now is the time to refresh the line with the upgraded cal. 9RA2, while preserving the heavyweight gravitas and luxurious bracelet of its predecessor. I have anticipated these watches since the second generation of Spring Drive movements launched in 2020; it took five years, but the result meets my expectations, though I would have liked a gold winding weight to match the case material. Selling watches on full precious metal bracelets in this segment is a mark of a strong brand. Gold prices and luxury margins bein...

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What is a Rehaut on a Watch Dial? Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 18, 2025

What is a Rehaut on a Watch Dial?

Most parts of a watch that you’ll encounter in your pursuit of horological knowledge are names that are fairly familiar and mostly self-explanatory: case, dial, hands, movement. (We run down the gamut of the most important watch parts in this article). But now and then, you may read about, or hear someone referring to, a watch’s rehaut - a somewhat intimidating-sounding French term that might give you pause at first. What is a rehaut, and what is it used for? Read on. Put simply, a rehaut (properly pronounced “Re-OHH” without the hard “T” sound at the end) is the French word for “flange,” which is the English term most often used in its place when discussing watches. It describes the rim between the periphery of the dial and the crystal. Unlike dials and cases and hands, not every watch has one. But for many of those that do, the rehaut is not only a frame that fills in the space between the dial edge and the crystal but also a utilitarian element that can add interest and even useful information to the dial itself.  Some watchmakers use the rehaut for staging the hour or minute markers, In the case of chronographs, like the TAG Heuer Carrera featured above, the rehaut can provide a spot for added functional markings like a tachymeter scale (which can use the built-in stopwatch to measure speeds relative to distance) or a pulsimeter (which works with the chronograph to measure heartbeat rates). Other watches might use the rehaut for calendar indications ...

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First Look – The Pequignet Royale Paris 39.5mm Power Reserve, Now in a Handsome Coral Edition Monochrome
Pequignet Sep 18, 2025

First Look – The Pequignet Royale Paris 39.5mm Power Reserve, Now in a Handsome Coral Edition

There is something happening in terms of watchmaking in France at the moment… Something quite interesting, if I must be honest, and I’m not saying this only because I’m French. We’re witnessing a resurgence of French watchmaking, with brands such as Yema delivering accessible watches equipped with made-in-France manufacture movements, or Trilobe recently unveiling an […]

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Introducing: The Handcrafted Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Horse And Three Other Themed Watches Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Horse Sep 18, 2025

Introducing: The Handcrafted Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Horse And Three Other Themed Watches

Let’s start with a riddle: what comes after tiger, dragon, and snake? The correct answer is “horse,” as you probably have guessed after reading the title. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Horse will debut ahead of the Chinese New Year at the brand’s Dream Shaper exhibition in Shanghai in September 2025. The watch pays tribute […] Visit Introducing: The Handcrafted Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Horse And Three Other Themed Watches to read the full article.

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Remembering Robert Redford, His Films, and His Influence on the Watch Community Worn & Wound
Sep 16, 2025

Remembering Robert Redford, His Films, and His Influence on the Watch Community

I’m part of a generation that grew up appreciating Robert Redford, who passed away this morning at the age of 89, primarily through the lens of their parents. Specifically, in my case, through my mom, who I can remember renting The Sting for me and my sister when we were children, certainly too young to appreciate Redford’s cultural impact on a generation of moviegoers, but not too young to understand his movie star magnetism. That’s something that defies age.  Over the years, as my movie education expanded and deepened, I began to see Redford in a series of different lights. At times, he was the consummate leading man. At others he exemplified a particular type of American authenticity and charm. As he aged, he grew into roles where he played learned experts, passing on knowledge (and movie star bona fides) to new generations of actors. Perhaps most importantly, he was an evangelist for movies, the founder of the Sundance Film Festival, and spent much of his later life promoting and elevating independent film in one way or another. He was also, of course, an important part of the watch community and over the years has been responsible for more watch spotting Instagram posts, articles, and podcasts, than perhaps any other celebrity. His Red Sub, to us, became an extension of Redford’s persona. It was as much a part of his image as the red jacket worn by James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause, or Audrey Hepburn’s pearls in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. The difference wi...

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