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Results for Co-Axial vs Swiss Lever Escapement

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Just Because - The Unique Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon “Julie” and New Personalisation Horizons for the Brand Monochrome
Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon “Julie” Aug 21, 2026

Just Because - The Unique Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon “Julie” and New Personalisation Horizons for the Brand

Customisation or unique pieces are nothing new in the Swiss watch industry, but are usually reserved for high horology or smaller ateliers, necessitating a level of flexibility that more established and mainstream brands can hardly achieve. That said, we had the opportunity to go hands-on with a unique piece recently that, besides its intrinsic singularity […]

Insight: The Science of Gear Tooth Profiles SJX Watches
Ming ly minor variations have Aug 18, 2026

Insight: The Science of Gear Tooth Profiles

Having explored several concepts related to energy systems in watchmaking, from mainspring barrel capacity to automatic winding and the chain and fusee, our technical series continues with a detailed examination of how that energy reaches the escapement. A vital part of all watch movements, gears are usually taken for granted and generally not given much thought. But upon closer look, gear tooth profiles vary in shape and size. These seemingly minor variations have big implications and reveal various calculated trade-offs. We take a closer look at the different gear profiles used in watchmaking and review their particularities and evolutions over time.  History and curves Mechanical timekeeping is inextricably linked to the concept of gears and transmissions. Long before the invention of the hairspring, early craftsmen and horologists were already using toothed wheels in conjunction with weights, verge escapements, and pendulums to measure the passage of time.  Historically, gear-cutters were separate professionals who catered to clock makers. Horological lore has it that the tooth profiles used during the 1600s were traced after the thumb’s shape, although it’s difficult find evidence for this theory. The invention of the hairspring marked a step-change in the technical evolution of the watch, and the later development of detached escapements enhanced precision further. These advances revealed transmission problems that had previously been masked by larger timing er...

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 2TV SJX Watches
Voutilainen demonstrate demand Aug 14, 2026

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 2TV

Now beginning its second decade under the leadership of Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) has introduced the Chronomètre FB 2TV.1, the first model in the new Mesure du Temps 1787 collection. The FB 2TV represents an evolution of the brand’s long-running chain-and-fusee architecture, adding zero-reset seconds and a flying tourbillon, and inverting the calibre to exhibit its key functional elements on the dial side. Initial thoughts It’s hard to believe that it has been ten years since the debut of Ferdinand Berthoud as a contemporary brand. It was clear from the outset that FB had big ambitions, launching its first model with a chain and fusee mechanism. Since then, FB has maintained admirably high standards for itself, and while not all of the designs appeal to me, the obvious effort that goes into every watch — each FB 2TV receives more than 300 hours of decoration — has won the brand a durable position near the top of the industry. Now beginning its second decade, FB has released the first watch in a new collection that portends a more mechanically expressive style, with features like the chain and fusee inverted to the dial side. This approach isn’t original, but the success of other ‘inverted’ movements from independents like Kari Voutilainen demonstrate demand for the format. Quirky designs Ferdinand Berthoud, an 18th-century pioneer of the spring detent escapement among other breakthroughs, approached watchmaking fr...

The Best Entry-Level Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Is The Downsized Tribute Duoface Small Seconds Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Aug 10, 2026

The Best Entry-Level Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Is The Downsized Tribute Duoface Small Seconds

If I asked you to draft a list of iconic dress watches, it probably wouldn’t take you long to come up with some answers. And it would not be unreasonable to assume that the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso would be on that list. And it would not be strange to assume that it would also be one […] Visit The Best Entry-Level Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Is The Downsized Tribute Duoface Small Seconds to read the full article.

The Best Watch I Have Ever Owned: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time Aug 8, 2026

The Best Watch I Have Ever Owned: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time

The option of being like Thomas and picking the Rolex Explorer II for the best watch I have ever owned was tempting. I thought about it, and yes, my Explorer II 16570 “Polar” was a very good watch in many ways. But it wasn’t the best one I have ever owned. The biggest flaw? The […] Visit The Best Watch I Have Ever Owned: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time to read the full article.

The Best Watch I Have Ever Owned: How The Tudor Black Bay Pro Became The Best Watch I Almost Owned Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Pro Became Aug 4, 2026

The Best Watch I Have Ever Owned: How The Tudor Black Bay Pro Became The Best Watch I Almost Owned

Exactly a month ago, Thomas kicked off a series on the best watches we’ve ever owned. The idea is for each writer to describe his favorite watch, the one that served him most loyally and brought the most joy. Mine comes with a twist: it’s a watch I never technically owned, yet for over a […] Visit The Best Watch I Have Ever Owned: How The Tudor Black Bay Pro Became The Best Watch I Almost Owned to read the full article.

TAG Heuer’s Latest Carrera Taps Team Ikuzawa SJX Watches
TAG Heuer s Latest Carrera Taps Aug 4, 2026

TAG Heuer’s Latest Carrera Taps Team Ikuzawa

Following TAG Heuer’s first collaboration with Japanese racing squad Team Ikuzawa and Bamford Watch Department in 2023, the trio has returned for a second lap with the limited edition TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa, bringing the red-and-white livery of the racing legend to the popular “glassbox” format for the first time. Initial thoughts Unlike many other legacy Swiss watch brands, TAG Heuer has demonstrated an ability to reach beyond traditional design influences to infuse its watches with a diverse range of elements from contemporary fashion. Last year’s Fujiwara streetwear collab is a prime example. With racing being so strongly linked to TAG Heuer’s history and brand identity, the collaboration with Ikuzawa is conceptually very fitting and extends the brand’s reach beyond the starting grid, deeper into motorsport culture. The Carrera Ikuzawa gets the mid-sized 39 mm ‘glassbox’ case, which is just under 14 mm thick. The case takes its name from its dramatically domed crystal, which encompasses the raised dial flange underneath, in place of a traditional bezel. Despite numerous vintage design cues, the Carrera Ikuzawa doesn’t look or feel like a vintage watch or vintage reissue. The clous de Paris dial texture and the depth of the ‘glassbox’ construction help it maintain its contemporary look. A Chrono-first dial With so much in common with the standard Carrera, much of the difference is down to the dial, which blends design cues from...

SJX Podcast: Second-Chance Watches SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Jul 31, 2026

SJX Podcast: Second-Chance Watches

The return of the Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar got us thinking about other technically interesting watches that showed promise but never truly found their footing. In episode 47 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss recent releases from Seiko, IWC, and Swatch before turning to candidates for a second chance, including the Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars AP Escapement, the TAG Heuer Monaco V4, and the elusive Breguet Hommage à Nicolas G. Hayek 7887. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Fratello On Air: Rethinking The Definition Of Entry-Level Watches Fratello
Jul 28, 2026

Fratello On Air: Rethinking The Definition Of Entry-Level Watches

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, Mike is in Florida, and Balazs is in Hungary. But we’re here for you! In today’s discussion, we tackle a listener suggestion. We’re talking about entry-level watches and how brands approach this. Hint: it’s very different today, with greater expectations from the buyer. This podcast […] Visit Fratello On Air: Rethinking The Definition Of Entry-Level Watches to read the full article.

A Universal Genève Unisonic Sub, A Longines Comet, A Vintage Seamaster And The Most Beautiful Chronograph Ever Made Hodinkee
Longines Comet Jul 24, 2026

A Universal Genève Unisonic Sub, A Longines Comet, A Vintage Seamaster And The Most Beautiful Chronograph Ever Made

Happy Friday, everyone, and I hope you're all staying busy during summer's dog days, perhaps seeing The Odyssey or reading about Milsubs (please note I'm including that not because I have any dog in that fight, just found it interesting). Scorekeeping last week's picks: the Hermès Caleche sold, the Angelus chronograph passed, the Rolex GMT Master II SARU remains available, as does the Bulova White Princ. The Goldberger collection auctions tomorrow. Strays Photo courtesy Weiss Auctions. If you're into impossible projects, here's a decent-looking Heuer 3647T that's missing its outer seconds track. If you know your Carreras, you know that track's actually a tension ring, and you likely also know it's gonna be quite a search indeed to find another, but here at BAL, we scoff at impossible projects. If you'd prefer to chase your own vintage Tudor Ranger rather than buy one of the ones highlighted two weeks back, have at it. For the completist who'd like every last horological oddity, I present this Pigeon Timer. I'm including this Movado M90 not because it's without flaw, but because it's already been bid up to $3750 at the time of writing, which seems high for what's likely mostly a parts watch (that dial can't be original, right?). Please, experts,  weigh in in the comments. Finally, here's a wonderful Omega Ranchero. A few weeks back I highlighted an Omega Railmaster (there's another of those up this week, too). I'm highlighting each of them simply because they're so often...

Toledano & Chan Introduces the Breutalist, a Limited Edition for the Horology Club Worn & Wound
Jul 20, 2026

Toledano & Chan Introduces the Breutalist, a Limited Edition for the Horology Club

We’re about half a year removed from the release of Toledano & Chan’s b/1.3r, certainly the brand’s most ambitious release to date with a solid gold dial, subtly updated case construction, and their first “Swiss Made” designation. They’ve followed up that launch with their first collaboration with The Horologly Club, the Hong Kong based watch collecting community (which actually has members all over the world, including T&C; cofounder Alfred Chan), just announced this morning. The new limited edition, which they’ve called the Breutalist, takes on a familiar form with some very specific design codes that fans of the brand will likely welcome. The distinctive shape of Toledano & Chan’s watches have taken inspiration from the former Whitney Museum building, designed by Marcel Breuer, from the very beginning. The building is considered a masterpiece of Brutalism, an architectural discipline often cited as inspiration by watch designers, but rarely actually “getting it” in the way Toledano & Chan does (they ship their watches in concrete presentation boxes, which puts them miles ahead of other so-called Brutalist brands, in my opinion). The design of the iconic windows in that building, specifically, is what lends T&C;’s watches their distinctive, asymmetrical shape, and informs the shape of the crystal, which has become a T&C; calling card.  The idea behind the Breutalist is to be far more straightforward and literal in what it takes from Brutalism and Breu...

Catching Scarlet Fever With The New Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Red Fratello
Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Red Jul 16, 2026

Catching Scarlet Fever With The New Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Red

As a traditionalist, I’m not always attracted to modern Haute Horlogerie watches. However, I always have time for new releases from Armin Strom. The independent brand’s attention to detail and supreme movement prowess get my attention. Lately, there have even been smaller models that could fit my wrist if funds allowed. Today’s new Mirrored Force […] Visit Catching Scarlet Fever With The New Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Red to read the full article.

Fratello On Air: Watches, Brands, And Styles We Like But Would Probably Never Buy Fratello
Jul 14, 2026

Fratello On Air: Watches, Brands, And Styles We Like But Would Probably Never Buy

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss watch brands, models, and styles that we like but would probably never buy. To be clear, this episode isn’t about picking on anyone or anything. Instead, there are other reasons these pieces aren’t on our wrists and may never be. This podcast player […] Visit Fratello On Air: Watches, Brands, And Styles We Like But Would Probably Never Buy to read the full article.

Show Your Colors With The Axia FIFA World Cup 2026 Watches Fratello
Jul 3, 2026

Show Your Colors With The Axia FIFA World Cup 2026 Watches

The Axia FIFA World Cup 2026 watches celebrate the biggest tournament in the world’s most popular sport. Rather than launching a single commemorative model, Axia has created a suite of officially licensed watches built around the FIFA World Cup 2026 itself and selected national teams. If your national jersey doesn’t quite show your colors enough, […] Visit Show Your Colors With The Axia FIFA World Cup 2026 Watches to read the full article.

All the Things to Do at Our Largest Windup Watch Fair Chicago Ever Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Citizen eBay Live Jul 2, 2026

All the Things to Do at Our Largest Windup Watch Fair Chicago Ever

Windup Watch Fair Chicago is almost here, and we’re excited to share everything happening throughout the weekend. Over the last four years, Chicago has become one of our fastest-growing events, so this year we’re moving into a brand-new venue with more space, more natural light, and more room to explore. Join us at Morgan MFG, a beautiful industrial venue just steps from Chicago’s vibrant Fulton Market district. Windup Watch Fair Chicago Friday, July 10 – Sunday, July 12, 2026 Morgan MFG 401 N Morgan St. Suite #100 Chicago, IL 60642 Free and open to everyone. No registration required. We’re also proud to welcome our Lead Sponsors for Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2026: Atelier Wen, Christopher Ward, Citizen, eBay Live, and Oris. Together with more than 70 exhibiting brands from around the world, they’ll help make this our biggest Chicago show yet. As you arrive, you’ll be welcomed by our friends at Omologato, who have partnered with Chip Ganassi Racing to bring something truly special to the show. Displayed in the main lobby all weekend will be the No. 10 IndyCar driven by Alex Palou to the 2025 IndyCar Championship—a must-see for racing fans and watch enthusiasts alike. Be sure to pick up your complimentary Windup Watch Fair guide along with the latest issue of WatchPro magazine, our inaugural Official Print Media Sponsor. While you’re there, scan our giveaway QR code for a chance to win prizes from our pals at Vostok Europe and Rumpl. Inside the venue, don...

The New Greubel Forsey Balancier QM Takes Hand-Finishing To A Whole New Level Fratello
Greubel Forsey Balancier QM Takes Hand-Finishing Jun 27, 2026

The New Greubel Forsey Balancier QM Takes Hand-Finishing To A Whole New Level

Today, we’ll take a brief look at a stunning new timepiece. With the Balancier QM, Greubel Forsey announces a new hand-finishing standard. What’s more, this new bar applies to every component within the caliber. That’s 298 pieces! Best of all, the watch is offered in a perfectly wearable case. Shall we investigate? Greubel Forsey makes […] Visit The New Greubel Forsey Balancier QM Takes Hand-Finishing To A Whole New Level to read the full article.

Bring a Loupe: The Most Important American Watch Ever Made, A Vianney Halter Jump Hour, An Omega Soyuz, And More Hodinkee
Longines Jun 26, 2026

Bring a Loupe: The Most Important American Watch Ever Made, A Vianney Halter Jump Hour, An Omega Soyuz, And More

Happy Friday, friends, and congrats on tackling another week. The days are now growing shorter (if you're north of the equator), and if you, like me, live in a state where fireworks are legal, best of luck for what will presumably be a very loud and long week. But before all that, let's take a moment and enjoy some watches. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Dugena and Mulco chronographs don't sell till the 27th, but the Rolex 6241 sold for 2,000,000 CHF, the Patek 5960 for 34,000 CHF, the Excelsior Park Monte Carlo passed, the Longines for TKTK (emailed, price not updated), and the Tavannes for TKTK (sells 6/25). Strays For all the Movado heads, this pocket watch looks spectacular, and if that doesn't ring your cherries, here's a gold-plated dual-time that's almost intimidatingly beautiful. My urge to recommend no-name skin divers will apparently never abate, and this week's pick is this Altitude that looks fantastic and is unlikely to sell for more than a few hundred dollars. Speaking of excellent divers, here's a Lip Nautic Ski, and, sure, it's a quartz watch from the 1970s, so (some) headaches await (though the watch is currently running, according to the listing), but I'm lately unable to shake an intense fondness for these latter Piquerez super compressor cases with their huge bezel and recessed crowns. Lastly, this Ebel is perfect; please buy it, someone, so I can stop thinking and debating if I should pursue the thing. Before getting into the main watches, I'd lik...