Deployant
Hands-on Review: New anOrdain Model 2 mkII
We take a look at this wildly popular timepiece from Scotland that has a waitlist of two years. Cue the anOrdain Model 2 mkII.
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Deployant
We take a look at this wildly popular timepiece from Scotland that has a waitlist of two years. Cue the anOrdain Model 2 mkII.
Hodinkee
Bright colors, cool features, and a wallet-friendly price tag make this watch a heck of a lot of fun.
Quill & Pad
For close to a century, Château Mouton Rothschild has been putting art on its labels, ever since 1924 when they helped Mouton’s young 22-year-old owner at the time, Baron Philippe de Rothschild, to change the way Bordeaux made wine. But what's behind the labels?
Hodinkee
From art deco gems to fun-loving Swatches, here are the best watches from the men's fashion event of the season.
SJX Watches
Designed a decade ago by Marc Newson, the industrial designer most famous for his Lockheed Lounge chair and the Apple Watch, the sleek hourglass is exceedingly simple yet remarkably complex to fabricate. It’s made of a single piece of glass – blown by hand in Switzerland – and filled with millions of tiny metal spheres known as nanoballs. De Bethune has applied its signature heat treatment to the object, resulting in the De Bethune x HG Timepiece Blue Hourglass, a limited edition pair of large and small timekeepers filled with heat-blued steel nanoballs. Initial thoughts More sculpture than timekeeper, the hourglass is a beautiful object that is incredibly simple yet impressive in its artisanal nature. The glass is blown by hand yet perfectly in form and proportions. The De Bethune touch adds another level of beauty to the object. Instead of the plated nanoballs found in the standard version of the hourglass, the Blue Hourglass contains blue nanoballs heat treated by Denis Flageollet himself. However, the addition of Mr Flageollet’s talents to the prowess of Swiss glassblowers comes at a high price. The smaller, 10-minute Blue Hourglass costs CHF25,000, more than double the price of the standard hourglass with plated nanoballs. That’s affordable relative to everything else than De Bethune makes, but it’s a steep premium for the hourglass. Tinkling timekeepers The Blue Hourglass is available in the two standard sizes: the larger, 60-minute timer and a smaller 10...
“As all experienced navigators know, it is extremely easy to get lost.” -Philip Van Horn Weems, Air Navigation, 1931"Where are we? Directly above the center of the Earth." -Old Joke
Time+Tide
As soon as the Rolex GMT Master II 126720VNTR was unveiled at Watches & Wonders, the great destro debate ensued. Rolex thrives on incremental updates, shaving lug widths, making subtle handset changes, offering new dial colours etc. As a result, decisions such as discontinuing the 39mm Rolex Explorer, and returning a 36mm variant to solely … ContinuedThe post We just found out what the year’s most hyped watch is really worth appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The latest offering in Montblanc’s high-end chronograph lineup is the 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph. In many ways it looks and feels like the Minerva chronographs that came before it. The case remains extra-large because of the pocket watch movement within and it still has a fluted bezel along with cathedral hands. But the Unveiled Secret is totally different from its predecessors, as its movement has been inverted in order to bring the most interesting bits to the front. That required some mechanical rearrangement to accomplish, but manages to realise the desire often expressed by collectors who want to wear a watch with the finely finished movement showcased on the dial. Initial thoughts Hand-wind chronographs have been a specialty of Montblanc, at least for its high-end models, since it acquired Minerva several years ago. Minerva came along with its stable of historical chronograph movements, all traditionally constructed in an elegant, delicate manner, albeit in a slightly anachronistic manner since the calibres mostly dated to the early-20th century. As a result, Montblanc can count several impressive chronographs in its collection, but the Unveiled Secret does it differently. Though the inversion trick has been done before by other hands, the Unveiled Secret is still a little more creative and a little more interesting. It relies on a simple trick: the hands are mounted on what is ordinarily the back of the movement, while the entire mo...
Time+Tide
Musically inspired watches have been around for quite some time. Here are five that truly stand out with their designs.The post From Frank Sinatra to Queen: 5 musically inspired watches you should know appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Chopard's Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and race car driver Jacky Ickx on more than 30 years of a legendary automotive event.
Quill & Pad
Gold dress watches sometimes seem to be on the brink of extinction, and Martin Green was almost ready to write their obituary. However, they do still exist and here he presents us with four classic gold dress watches for the consideration of the discerning modern-day, yet classically inclined, gentleman.
Quill & Pad
Check out The Watches TV founder Marc-André Deschoux as he explains how the personal watch of Ressence's founder, Benoît Mintiens, works in this video. Mintiens wears the Type 2 e-crown and lent it to our pal Marc-André for several weeks.
Hodinkee
Now that we're all grown up, we – the men and women of HODINKEE – live and breathe watches. Here are the pieces we saw our dads wearing when we were impressionable little kids. It's a reminder to all you dads out there: Teach the children well!
Quill & Pad
GaryG outlines why he bought a Vianney Halter Deep Space Tourbillon, providing commentary on a collector’s mindset and the motivations, delights, and possible misgivings. And, of course, there are amazing photographs.
Time+Tide
Here’s something I didn’t see coming: an entry-level automatic GMT watch from Seiko has just dropped, and it’s packing some serious GMT-Master vibes. The three colourways remind me of the modding community from the SKX message boards back in the day, where home tinkerers would modify their Seiko divers with aftermarket two-tone bezel inserts and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style GMT delivers an automatic GMT for under $1000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Cuervo y Sobrinos drums to its own beat. And that beat has a vibrant Latin vibe to it as the heritage of the brand is anchored in the spirit and style that made Havana one of the world’s cultural hotspots. Now headquartered in Switzerland, the Latin spirit is still present in each of Cuervo y Sobrinos’ watches, including its latest creation, the Historiador Doble Luna.
SJX Watches
Having debuted an elaborately open-worked watch in 2014 and then applied its trademark style to something more basic, Garrick has just unveiled its fifth model to date, the S5. Retaining the quintessential elements of Garrick, namely a guilloche dial with Roman numerals and hands with an uncommonly large counterweight, the S5 is essentially a smaller and simpler iteration of Garrick’s earlier models, but it’s an all-new watch in a technical sense. Equipped with a new, in-house movement, the S5 sets itself apart from its predecessors with compact dimensions that make it Garrick’s smallest to date. Initial thoughts The proportions of the S5 are its primary point of appeal. It’s only 39 mm wide and 8 mm tall, making it substantially smaller than the brand’s previous offerings. Those were all 42 mm in diameter, making them too large for the largely elegant and traditional aesthetic. And the large case size also brought to mind similarly styled but less expensive watches equipped with Unitas movements. Along with the reduced size, the S5 is also the brand’s most minimalist watch so far and the first with centre seconds. Given that Garrick’s earlier models all had subsidiary seconds, the centre seconds (and the smaller diameter) makes it clear that the movement within the S5 is different. It is indeed a new calibre, albeit one that wasn’t originally constructed with a centre seconds, which requires means a secondary train was required to reposition the second...
SJX Watches
Long rumoured and now official, François-Henry Bennahmias will depart Audemars Piguet (AP) at the end of 2023 after an 11-year reign as chief executive. An iconoclast who dared to voice out loud what many people were thinking, he turbocharged a brand that had been coasting and was gradually being edged out by more aggressive competitors. Over the last ten years AP has more than doubled its turnover and operating margin, while maintaining its exclusivity thus enhancing its attraction for customers and collectors. Often criticised for its dependence on a single product family – the legendary Royal Oak contributes makes up over 90% of turnover and even more of profit – the Le Brassus brand has been able to reinvent its flagship product during François’ tenure, turning it into an icon in watchmaking. But Bennahmias’ marketing and business plan owes less to genius than to common sense and a unique ability to unite his team. Brands are crafted by people The path to success for the successful (re)launch of the horological icon is straightforward in hindsight but it is all related to human factors. I am a firm believer in the fact that brands are made by people and not spreadsheets. In a luxury brand, the personality of the chief executive (or creative director) is key to the promotion of its values. A strong personality with character traits suited to a pro boxer, Bennahmias has a strong charisma that allows him to motivate his troops and lead from the front. He has ...
Deployant
Urwerk releases a new version of their UR-100 in a new all titanium case and bracelet - the 25 piece limited Edition UR-100V Full Metal Jacket.
Hodinkee
Eric Peng Cheng, watch mega-collector and founder of streetwear brands Bait and Undefeated, might have the answer.
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer have established themselves as the go-to brand for luxury smartwatches with each subsequent edition of the TAG Heuer Connected improving both form and function. When considering modern technology, it’s impossible to have a conversation about recent advancements without broaching the subject of NFTs and cryptocurrency. NFTs have seeped into seemingly every walk of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: TAG Heuer CEO announces “first and best” NFT Viewer is now available on Calibre E4 Connected Watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Adrian Quesada came to our shoot packing a diverse collection of watches – and a rare Gibson.
Hodinkee
Chatting about the creation, content, and design in the latest issue of HODINKEE Magazine with Nick Marino and designer Mike Renaud.
SJX Watches
A watch auction veteran who has had stints at all the major auction houses – Sotheby’s, Christie’s, and Phillips – Sam Hines has just been named managing director of Loupe This, the online-only watch auction platform that was established last year. Mr Hines will be based in Hong Kong, where he will oversee the soon-to-open Loupe This operation in the city. Unlike traditional auctioneers that hold seasonal sales with the online sales in-between, Loupe This has auctions opening and closing every weekday. In the 12 months it’s been in operation, Loupe This has sold over US$15 million of watches, including major lots like a 1967 Cartier Crash “London” that sold for over US$1.5 million. Now also a shareholder in Loupe This, Mr Hines (pictured above left) joins cofounders Eric Ku (centre) and Justin Gruenberg (right), who are both prominent vintage watch dealers in the United States. Having turned a teenage hobby into a profession, Mr Ku got his start as a specialist in vintage Rolex, though he has since diversified into other genres of collectible watches as well as watch restoration and repair. Mr Gruenberg, on the other hand, had watches in his blood, having been born into the business; his father, Donald, was a major vintage watch dealer since the 1980s. The record-setting 1967 Crash that sold on Loupe This in June 2022 The pair decided to form Loupe This to cater to the increasing and unending demand for watches. “The appetite for watches is all year long,...
Hodinkee
The return of an endearing travel complication wrapped in '90s oddball charm.
Deployant
We caught up with Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith recently when he was in Singapore and he gave us some interesting inside look at the grand maison.
SJX Watches
Long a leading player in the arena of high-end quartz watches, Grand Seiko’s flagship offering is the 9F quartz movement that is built with an attention to detail comparable to that of its mechanical calibres. Beyond the almost-artisanal production, 9F movements are all about accuracy – the standard movements are rated to within 10 seconds a year. Now Grand Seiko a limited edition equipped with a specially-adjusted 9F calibre, the Heritage Collection 44GS 55th Anniversary SBGP017 “Blue Clouds”. Signified by the star emblem on the dial, the movement within is regulated to run within five seconds a year – an average of less than a half second deviation a month. Initial thoughts Watches with colourful, textured dials are almost the norm at Grand Seiko, which has rolled out enough limited editions that such watches seem almost more common than their plain dial counterparts. The SBGP017 dial has a familiar texture, so at first glance it seems like yet another Grand Seiko limited edition. But a closer look reveals the fact that the SBGP017 is unusual. For one, it’s quartz. Grand Seiko quartz watches rarely have patterned dials and when they do, the dials typically have motifs made up of repeating symbols. In contrast, the abstract pattern found on the SBGP017 is similar to that found on Grand Seiko’s mechanical and Spring Drive models. Put another way, the SBGP017 is an atypical Grand Seiko limited edition because it’s quartz but has the aesthetic of a me...
Quill & Pad
Just when GaryG thinks he knows a little bit about watches, a portal opens to a whole new facet of our hobby he hadn’t previously appreciated. So it was when he recently joined collectors and journalists from around the world for Breitling’s launch of the Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute, a tribute piece marking the sixtieth anniversary of astronaut Scott Carpenter’s orbital trip.
SJX Watches
While lesser known than wristwatches like the Tank and Crash, the mystery clock is as quintessentially Cartier as its wristwatch counterparts. Bonhams’ upcoming Hong Kong auction includes a prime example of the classic Cartier “Model A” mystery clock. The first type of mystery clock developed by Cartier, the Model A, made its debut in 1912 and the first example was sold to banker J. Pierpont Morgan. Compact but striking in its details and transparency, the Model A is essentially a block of rock crystal sitting on a mineral stone base with accents of gold, enamel, and diamonds. This example that will go on the block at Bonhams dates to 1928 and sits on an onyx base. The mystery clock, however, wasn’t invented at Cartier. Instead the clock with floating hands was conceived by Maurice Coüet, a clockmaker who was first a supplier to Cartier before joining the jeweller. Coüet in turn was inspired by the work of 19th century clockmaker-turned-magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, the inventor of the mystery clock concept. The Model A is a two-axis mystery clock with the driving pinions for the hands hidden in each column of the frame Notably, the Model A clock is being sold to benefit an Australian conservation non-profit, thanks to the late Antony Coote, a farmer and businessman whose family formerly controlled Angus & Coote, a storied name in Australian retail that was once the biggest jeweller in the country. After selling his family’s stake in 2006, Coote turn...
Hodinkee
Before heading on tour with Elvis Costello, the singer-songwriter shares his love of watches and art.
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