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Results for ISO 6425 (Diver's Watch Standard)

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MICRO MONDAYS: The Brellum Pilot Power Gauge Chronometer – a COSC-certified classic pilot’s chronograph with a modern edge Time+Tide
Nov 1, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Brellum Pilot Power Gauge Chronometer – a COSC-certified classic pilot’s chronograph with a modern edge

Brellum has just released a resolutely modern, yet classic take on a pilot’s chronograph, with the sharpest of details – and shows how much colour and texture transforms the aviator personality of the Brellum Pilot Power Gauge Chronometer. This is another strong reference from Brellum that will follow your lead, be it battle-ready flight instrument … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Brellum Pilot Power Gauge Chronometer – a COSC-certified classic pilot’s chronograph with a modern edge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de L’Horloge: How Two Tourbillons Rotate Within A Revolving Dial Quill & Pad
Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Oct 30, 2020

Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de L’Horloge: How Two Tourbillons Rotate Within A Revolving Dial

The Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge features two separate tourbillons – but that isn’t all: the hour wheel moves a plate that makes a rotation once every twelve hours, taking the hour hand (and everything else on the dial) with it. The open movement on the dial side puts everything beautifully on display. But possibly it's the hand-engraved case back, a poetic story in itself, that is Elizabeth Doerr's favorite detail of this new watch.

Ressence Introduces the Type 5X Automobili Amos SJX Watches
Ressence Introduces Oct 30, 2020

Ressence Introduces the Type 5X Automobili Amos

Conceived to mark the brand’s 10th anniversary, the “X” series of watches is a quartet of models that started with the Type 1 Slim X, and now continues with the brand-new Type 5X Automobili Amos. Equipped with a bezel to measure turbocharged engine warming and cooling times, the Type 5X is the result of a collaboration between Ressence and Italian race-car driver Eugenio Amos. Husband to a member of the Missoni fashion dynasty, Mr Amos’ namesake company is best known for the Lancia Delta Futurista “restomod”, a race car based on the 1980s Lancia Delta, a car famous for dominating the World Rally Championship in the late 1980s. The concept is similar to what Singer Vehicle Design is doing for the Porsche 911 (specifically the 964 of the early 1990s); Singer, as it happens, has its own line of wristwatches. Initial thoughts The Type 5X is a good-looking variation of the standard Type 5. The tweaks to the typography, colours, and bezel are attractive. But it has a narrow appeal, basically car enthusiasts who appreciate the history of the Lancia Delta and that era of automobile racing. Because it costs not much more than the standard model, the Type 5X is probably a no brainer for anyone who does appreciate that history. But for anyone else it is a bit too esoteric. The Lancia Delta Futurista More broadly, the strengths and weaknesses of the Type 5X are the same as those of the standard model. The watch is ingenious, inventive, and truly unique, while possessing e...

Rockstars rocking vintage watches, Part 2 – Paul Newman Daytonas only Time+Tide
Rolex Daytona sold Oct 29, 2020

Rockstars rocking vintage watches, Part 2 – Paul Newman Daytonas only

Ever since the “panda” dial Paul Newman Rolex Daytona sold for the GDP of a small African nation, it’s become the preserve of mega-rich rockstars only. And thus, we have just two examples of rockstars wearing it, one from the new school – old mate, Ed Sheeran who is quite the enthusiast and journeyman Eric Clapton. … ContinuedThe post Rockstars rocking vintage watches, Part 2 – Paul Newman Daytonas only appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chopard Introduces the Mille Miglia 2020 Race Edition SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces Oct 26, 2020

Chopard Introduces the Mille Miglia 2020 Race Edition

Watchmaker and jeweller Chopard has a long been associated with classic cars, owing to its co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, who is a passionate collector of vintage automobiles. As a result, Chopard has been a sponsor of the Mille Miglia classic-car rally since 1988 – with Mr Scheufele himself taking part each year. Chopard has released a commemorative edition for each Mille Miglia since, this year’s Mille Miglia 2020 Race Edition is very much in the style of the classic Mille Miglia edition, but more restrained with a black diamond-like carbon (DLC) coated steel case – or dressed up with a rose-gold bezel. Racing champion Jacky Ickx with the new Mille Miglia chronograph Initial thoughts Though based on the standard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph, the 2020 edition has been given an all-black treatment, which Chopard has also recently applied to its L.U.C ultra-thin dress watch. The DLC-coated case is matched with a dial in muted colours that’s also been sandblasted for a matte, grained finish, as have the hands, which results in a coherent, clean look. This year’s version feels more contemporary than many earlier editions of the Mille Miglia chronograph, many of which were dressed in bright, racing colours like green or red. And its dark case finish also makes it feel a little smaller, which is helpful for a relatively large watch. But while the watch looks good and is a limited edition, it’s priced a little steeply at US$6,700 in steel (and an extra...

That time David Beckham wore a blacked-out Rolex Sea-Dweller courtside, with a custom Tudor thrown in Time+Tide
Tudor thrown Oct 23, 2020

That time David Beckham wore a blacked-out Rolex Sea-Dweller courtside, with a custom Tudor thrown in

Earlier in the week we uncovered a group of celebrities whose daily weapon of choice is not just a modded Rolex, but a modded Milgauss. And not just modded, fully blacked-out, including the bracelet. In our research for that story, with a little help from Nick Gould, we discovered this example – David Beckham wearing … ContinuedThe post That time David Beckham wore a blacked-out Rolex Sea-Dweller courtside, with a custom Tudor thrown in appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watchmaking: A Primer on Frosting by a Watchmaker SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Masahiro Kikuno Oct 23, 2020

Watchmaking: A Primer on Frosting by a Watchmaker

Fine finishing in high-end watchmaking automatically brings to mind polished bevels, black-polished steel, Cotes de Geneve, blueing, and even perlage. But less thought is given to frosting, even though it is prominent in the grandest of timepieces made by leading independent watchmakers. Put simply, frosting is the treatment of a metal to create an uneven, pitted surface. A beautifully rough finish, frosting dulls the appearance of the component it is applied to. Many brands rely on the technique for decoration, but often in strikingly different forms. Akrivia, Greubel Forsey, Masahiro Kikuno, and Roger W. Smith are all known for their frosted finishes, but each differs from the other in technique and aesthetic effect. The frosted bridges on the front of the Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 Heroes and sidekicks When it comes to finishing methods in horology, I like to separate them into two categories: heroes and sidekicks. The sidekicks – such as perlage, graining, and of course frosting – are the methods that help the heroes stand out. Do not think any less of the sidekicks because without them, the heroes would not get the attention they deserve. The heroes are the methods that make you wonder: “This is beautiful – how did they do that?” Black polishing, blueing and engraving are just a few of them. As in the comic books, heroes and sidekicks work together to make each other look good. But as is frequently the case in fiction, sidekicks are often forgotten. Take fo...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: In celebration of the people behind the Time+Tide scenes, including our proofreader Jeff Time+Tide
Cartier watches to her staff each Oct 22, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: In celebration of the people behind the Time+Tide scenes, including our proofreader Jeff

Jeff Jenkins is the author of the last article published on Time+Tide, about a scandal engulfing Australia Post. It is his first-ever story on Time+Tide. In a nutshell, the CEO of Australia Post Christine Holgate gifted four Cartier watches to her staff, each worth around $3000. You can read more below. The point isn’t the story, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: In celebration of the people behind the Time+Tide scenes, including our proofreader Jeff appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Aluminium time-only – a summer-fresh take on a ’90s lightweight classic, still a winning formula, still fresh Time+Tide
Bulgari Aluminium time-only – Oct 21, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Aluminium time-only – a summer-fresh take on a ’90s lightweight classic, still a winning formula, still fresh

The strangest feeling is to be had when you first put on the Bulgari Aluminium time-only - if you actually get it on in the first place. Holding it makes you do a double take and shift it from left to right hand as if to check your own function as a makeshift human set of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Aluminium time-only – a summer-fresh take on a ’90s lightweight classic, still a winning formula, still fresh appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Massena LAB Uni-Racer, the first in-house production from Massena LAB, with a fresh take on vintage chronograph perfection Time+Tide
Massena Lab Uni-Racer Oct 20, 2020

INTRODUCING: Massena LAB Uni-Racer, the first in-house production from Massena LAB, with a fresh take on vintage chronograph perfection

From the secret lab of William Massena we have come to expect the unexpected. The LAB has a short but exciting history of sharp collaborations with a disruptive edge, exhibiting a wide scope of taste and style. This exciting new model is a case in point, with the last public project being a brilliant vintage … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Massena LAB Uni-Racer, the first in-house production from Massena LAB, with a fresh take on vintage chronograph perfection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Panerai Introduces the Radiomir Paneristi 45mm PAM02020 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Oct 19, 2020

Panerai Introduces the Radiomir Paneristi 45mm PAM02020

As it did for several anniversaries before – but against a vastly different landscape in the past – Panerai has just announced the Radiomir Paneristi 45mm PAM02020 for the 20th anniversary of its collector forum. The PAM 2020 is a hand-wind, 45 mm Radiomir with a steel case finished with an faux-patina treatment, and an inappropriately large anniversary logo on the front (and an even larger one on the back). Initial thoughts This is the sixth Paneristi edition. Six editions ago, Paneristi was arguably the most fanatical watch forum dedicated to the hottest brand in the world. The first Paneristi edition, the PAM 195 of 2003, sold out in an instant, and despite all of them having the owner’s name engraved on the back, sold for many multiples of the original retail price on the secondary market. But times have changed. Although Panerai describes the new Paneristi Radiomir as “the result of an intense creative process involving close collaboration between… Panerai’s technical and creative team… and the Paneristi”, it is neither intense nor creative. The emblem on the dial might be engraved like it is on vintage Panerai, but it looks unattractive. And “Venti”, which is Italian for “twenty”, between the lugs regrettably brings to mind the extra-large Starbucks coffee. The dial colour and finish does look good, however, and the faux-aged case (identical to that on the Radiomir PAM 992) is also appealing. And for €6,500 this is reasonably priced, though...

Legacy Machine Perpetual Catapults MB&F; Into The Big League: Here’s Why Quill & Pad
MB&F; Oct 17, 2020

Legacy Machine Perpetual Catapults MB&F; Into The Big League: Here’s Why

I'm all for evolution, especially continual evolution in watchmaking. However, from time to time we need revolution as well as evolution, and the former is severely lacking. While MB&F;'s Legacy Machine Perpetual looks to all intents and purposes like one of the least radical timepieces created in the brand's ten-year history, make no mistake: it is revolution, not evolution.

VIDEO: The best of both worlds with the Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch Time+Tide
Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch Oct 15, 2020

VIDEO: The best of both worlds with the Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch

If you’re someone who spends more time looking at screens than you would like to, but don’t want to miss an important call, the Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch is an interesting proposition. At first impression, or from across the room, you would think you were looking at a mechanical mid-century wristwatch. After all, the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The best of both worlds with the Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Jury Has Been Chosen: Commentary On The Judges Making The Choices For The Best Watches Of The Year Quill & Pad
Oct 13, 2020

The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Jury Has Been Chosen: Commentary On The Judges Making The Choices For The Best Watches Of The Year

In perusing the names of the 2020 jury of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, two distinct things became obvious to former jury member Elizabeth Doerr: that the entire jury is based in Switzerland and that it is far less diverse than it has been over the last decade. Here she breaks down why that is and provides some commentary and background on the new members.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Twenty-4 “Manchette” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Oct 10, 2020

Patek Philippe Introduces the Twenty-4 “Manchette”

One of the “It” watches of the 2000s was the Patek Philippe Twenty~4, which was launched in 1999 as an elegant yet everyday watch for women in steel with a bracelet and quartz movement, making it affordable and chic. Having unveiled the round Twenty-4 automatic two years now, Patek Philippe has rebooted the original Twenty-4 “Manchette”, once again in steel with new dials in blue and grey. And like the original, it has a steel bracelet, hence the nickname – manchette being French for “cuff”. Initial thoughts While the round, automatic Twenty-4 is larger and perhaps more casual, the original rectangular model is more compact, giving it a slightly more formal style – but the new dial design avoids looking old fashioned. And the rectangular Twenty-4 has been around long enough it is easily recognisable, despite the relatively simple styling, making it the signature Patek Philippe watch for ladies. The central element of the new Twenty-4 is the facelifted dial. Doing away with the diamond indices and Roman numerals of the original, the new dial is cleaner and more modern, while also having luminous hands and hour markers. The upside of a quartz watch is that it more easily accessible than a mechanical watch, in both pricing and functionality, avoiding winding and setting the time. And this particular model does not have a second hand, so its identity is hidden. Priced at about US$14,700, the Twenty-4 is very expensive for a quartz watch with a steel case. An...

3 reasons why Rolex fakes are getting so good, and some tips to avoid them from Watchfinder Time+Tide
Rolex fakes are getting so Oct 8, 2020

3 reasons why Rolex fakes are getting so good, and some tips to avoid them from Watchfinder

Rolex fakes have existed for a very long time. But where it used to be pretty easy to spot an impostor – from the dull lustre of the cheap materials, to laughable aesthetic inaccuracies, to the sound of the rotor rattling from across the boardroom table like a bag of Skittles – it is now … ContinuedThe post 3 reasons why Rolex fakes are getting so good, and some tips to avoid them from Watchfinder appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Glashütte Original Limited Edition Flying Tourbillon Honoring Alfred Helwig, The German School Of Watchmaking, And Glashütte’s 175th Anniversary Quill & Pad
Glashütte Original Limited Edition Flying Tourbillon Oct 8, 2020

Glashütte Original Limited Edition Flying Tourbillon Honoring Alfred Helwig, The German School Of Watchmaking, And Glashütte’s 175th Anniversary

With the new Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 – Limited Edition, Glashütte Original once again nods to the history of the invention of the flying tourbillon. Featuring an "invisible" example of the flying tourbillon, this timepiece pays tribute to one of the most illustrious figures of Glashütte's 175-year history. And its seeming simplicity is mesmerizing to author Sabine Zwettler.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: You need to know your ideal lug to lug size, or you’re doing watches wrong Time+Tide
Oct 8, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: You need to know your ideal lug to lug size, or you’re doing watches wrong

It’s a story we’ve been writing in our weekly editorial meeting for months and months: the idea that lug to lug measurement is a more important fit-telling metric than any other. In layman’s terms, that’s the distance between the outer tip of two opposing lugs on either side of the case. So much discussion. So … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: You need to know your ideal lug to lug size, or you’re doing watches wrong appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-Edition Review WatchAdvice
Breitling AVI Ref 765 1953 Oct 7, 2020

Breitling AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-Edition Review

Back in February this year, Breitling released the stunning re-edition to one of the much-loved aviation models from the past. The reference 765 AVI chronograph, born in 1953, was a popular piece among enthusiasts and is as much of a collectable now as it was back then. In 2020, Breitling decided to bring back the 765 AVI chronograph with almost the same design as the original, only this time with their modern in-house movement. Dubbed the AVI ref. 765 1953 Re-edition, this new model brings the same stylish flair as the original, but now is offered in stainless steel, 18k rose gold or 950 platinum.  We at Watchadvice got our hands on the stainless steel model (reference AB0920131B1X1), as we think the black dial with steel casing is the most versatile out of the three. Before we dive into this latest re-edition, it’s good to look at the original piece’s history, to do the new one justice.  Reference AB0920131B1X1 Although the Breitling AVI Ref. 765 was created in 1953, the creation of the Ref. 765 AVI started back in 1930. In 1930, Breitling released two pilot watches named the Premier ref. 765 and Ref. 734. These Ref. timepieces were more compact in design, with the tri counter layout cutting into the hour indexes. The 1930’s models were still elegant in design and would pave the future for the iconic Ref 765 Avi that would be born some 23 years later.  The second world war had quite an impact on timepieces throughout the world, with many new watches coming into ...