Hodinkee
Magazine Feature: Time Travel With A Few Of Our Favorite GMT Watches
Watches built for life on the road have enjoyed a surge in popularity. We look at six of the best examples available today.
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Hodinkee
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback 60th Anniversary DLC
With the introduction of the new TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback Chronograph 60th Anniversary Silver dial, the brand bought back a classic design to one of its most storied lines. This alone would have been enough for TAG Heuer fans. However, they didn’t stop there. Instead, they doubled down on the design to give us … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback 60th Anniversary DLC appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Seiko 5 Sports x Worn & Wound 10th Anniversary Limited Edition
Seiko loves to celebrate anniversaries. The 140th anniversary of the Seiko Corporation brought forth a ton of commemorative limited-edition novelties, for both the Seiko and Grand Seiko brands, each celebrating the rich history of the vertically integrated manufacture. But today’s new Seiko limited edition, while celebrating an anniversary, is not for their own. In honour … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko 5 Sports x Worn & Wound 10th Anniversary Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Chinese Artisans Team Up Under the Aegis of Celadon
Having commissioned a series of double-crown, cloisonné world time wristwatches from Andersen Genève, Singaporean collector Benjamin Chee now turns to Chinese artisans for his latest collaborative project. The Celadon Haute Horlogerie Century is the work of AHCI member Lin Yong Hua and Xiong Songtao, a third-generation enameller who created the cloisonné dial. Initial thoughts The watchmakers are proficient at making – and marketing – métiers d’art, but Chinese watchmakers are fairly new entrants to the high-end of this field, making the Century an unusual offering. The Century is an entirely different animal from the low-end watches that are often associated with the made-in-China label. Both in terms of the dial and movement, the Century takes things to another level, while possessing a refined, clean style. The entire dial is cloisonné enamel comprised of an impressive amount of gold wire to form the intricate motif. In fact, the fine cloisonné work resembles brush strokes from afar. It’s certainly appears to be top class work in both complexity and quality. And the movement is comparable in quality, which is unsurprising since it was developed by Mr Lin, who is best known for his quirky, hand-made wristwatches. The finishing is excellent, as evidenced by the rounded bevelling on the three-quarter plate. But while the Century does well in intrinsic quality, it seems to lack identity. While the watch is well designed and finely made – especially con...
Time+Tide
5 sleeper hits from Tissot that you need to consider
Having worked for Tissot selling their watches for two years before joining the T+T team, I’d like to think that I have a comprehensive grasp of their offering. Purchasing trends were easily noticeable during that time, but what was also apparent is that some great watches were criminally overlooked. With models such as the PRX … ContinuedThe post 5 sleeper hits from Tissot that you need to consider appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Why we need to STOP comparing Grand Seiko to Rolex | SBGA415 Four Seasons - Winter
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar “Tutorial”
Already “fool-proof” as complicated watches go, the H. Moser & Cie. perpetual calendar has just been given a stylish facelift, resulting in a pair of watches bearing the signature smoked blue dial. The first of the two is the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue that is almost identical to its predecessor but even more minimalist with a barely-there logo in transparent lacquer. But the headline model is surely the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial, which has a whimsical user guide on the dial. The Tutorial (left) and the Funky Blue Initial thoughts I like the Tutorial because it has an ingenious movement and a sense of humour. Though the dial is the only element that’s different with the Tutorial, it is certainly an improved watch than its predecessor, simply because it perfectly encapsulates the quirkiness that defines H. Moser & Cie. The dial is so obvious that the watch really does stand out – it is certainly s a conversation piece. But it is the juxtaposition of the tongue-in-cheek schematics on the dial and the serious mechanics underneath gives the watch an amusing, original character. Perhaps only the Schaffhausen-based watchmaker that can pull this off without looking silly, given its technical competence and humorous spirit. That said, the “cheat sheet” dial is entirely practical, as it helps with both adjusting and reading the calendar – somewhat ironically since the Moser perpetual calendar mechanism is one of the most fuss free on the ma...
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: Happy Valentine’s Day, you’re dumped. That time our intern broke up with Swiss watchmaking
It’s a romantic day, and we’re hoping it’s all roses for you, but let’s not forget, love can be a bitch. And a few years ago, in a memorable rant, our intern Elise announced to us that she was losing interest in Swiss watchmaking. She was more into the Germans. The Japanese. Because it was … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Happy Valentine’s Day, you’re dumped. That time our intern broke up with Swiss watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition
Launched in 2020 inside the all-new Evolution 9 collection, Grand Seiko’s top-of-the-line mechanical and Spring Drive movements have now found their way into the distinctive 44GS case, which happens to turn 55 this year. With its wide, flat lugs, the 44GS case is a familiar, quintessential Grand Seiko (GS) design, but the Heritage Collection 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition pair bring along relatively new features: the case is machined from brand’s proprietary Ever Brilliant Steel for the first time, while the dial now sports an unusually pronounced woodgrain pattern. Initial thoughts The 44GS 55th Anniversary is typical of the brand’s recent launches with its iteration on familiar elements but made different with minor tweaks. It’s a subtlety that appeals to enthusiasts who cherish variations on a theme, though casual observers will find it difficult to distinguish between the models. But the fundamental appeal of GS remains, which is a top notch execution within its price segment. That said, the latest pair are arguably a bit more special. One factor in their favour is the patterned dial. It’s a newish addition to the GS line up and also exclusive to date, having been used only in two models, both of which are expensive watches in precious metals. The new 44GS is, of course, in steel and hence more affordable. But the case is no ordinary steel, but instead Ever Brilliant Steel – the corrosion-resistant alloy is being applied to GS cases for the first ...
Quill & Pad
Can Writing Instruments Be As Collectible And Enthusiast-Infused As Watches? – Reprise
Thrill of the chase. Intellectual satisfaction. Investment. There are nearly as many reasons for collecting things as there are things to collect. But when it comes to watches and writing instruments, a variety of shared motivations, perhaps catalyzed by the obvious common characteristics of the objects themselves, make them conspicuous crossovers for collectors.
SJX Watches
Exhibition: ‘A Journey through the Poetry of Time’ with Van Cleef & Arpels
Parisian jeweller Van Cleef & Arpels (VC&A;) is staging an expansive exhibition of its high jewellery and complicated watches in Singapore. Executed in the brand’s signature whimsical style that evokes a stylised, romantic Paris, A Journey through the Poetry of Time opens on February 12 and is open to the public for a week, but registration is required for entry. Best known for its inventive, quirky mechanics and elaborate ornamentation, VC&A; has pulled out all the stops of the exhibition. The event encompasses most the brand’s most lavish creations, ranging from its charming complicated watches to incredible high-jewellery sets. One of the exhibition’s central themes is the brand’s most famous complication, the bi-retrograde display that is made up of two lovers on a bridge, the Pont des Amoureux. Another section of the exhibition is dedicated to the brand’s astronomical complications, which includes the Lady Arpels Planétarium, a compact, 38 mm wristwatch that captures the motion of Mercury, Venus, the Earth, and the Moon on its three-dimensional dial. Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux – an elegant, effortless combination of high jewellery and inventive watchmaking Lady Arpels Planétarium – the time is indicated with a shooting star that travels around the dial At the same time, VC&A; is also showcasing its haute horlogerie infused with modern technology. One of the exhibits is a line up of the entire Lady Arpels Zodiaque Lumineux collection, each of which...
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THE VERY SPECIAL CHRISTMAS SPECIAL
Deployant
Leica L1 and L2 wristwatches: now finally being delivered
Hands-on coverage of the full commercial release of the Leica L1 and L2 wristwatches. The watches are available now for order at selected Leica Boutiques.
Quill & Pad
Elizabeth’s Top 10 Watches Of 2021: A Few You Might Expect And A Few Surprises
Elizabeth Doerr is the last of the Quill & Pad team to pick her top ten watches of 2021. And even though she has been thinking about such a list for most of the year – seeing as a relatively significant portion of it was spent in lockdown – she still had a hard time narrowing it down to just ten pieces. Do you agree with what she chose?
Quill & Pad
All 4 Greubel Forsey Art Pieces: Hidden Time With Breathtaking Micro Sculptures And Awe-Inspiring Micro Mechanics – Reprise
Greubel Forsey's Art Pieces are among the world’s most notable art-related timepieces and not just because they tackle the subject of art for art’s sake but also because the Art Pieces highlight the relationship horology has with art. Elizabeth Doerr doesn't think that there is any denying that the modern art of watchmaking has a synergy with art as a whole. And that is abundantly visible in these watches.
SJX Watches
Recommended Reading: The In-Depth Guide to the F. P. Journe Octa Chronographe
A short-lived model in production for just a few years – it was replaced by the Centigraphe in 2008 – the Octa Chronographe was nevertheless one of F.P. Journe’s most intriguing offerings in technical terms. While based on the standard cal. 1300 found in the simpler Octa models, the chronograph movement utilised a stopwatch mechanism integrated into the base plate under the dial. In other words, the chronograph was integrated but located where a modular setup would typically be. As a result the Chronographe remained the same height as less complex Octa models (though that thinness would cause a variety of problems with the functionality, especially with the date). Its technical details – which vary across generations – are just one aspect of the watch detailed in A Collector’s Guide for the Octa Chronographe by F. P. Journe by Shawn Mehta, founder of independent watchmaking merchant Watch4Moi. (At the same time it’s worth revisiting the guide to the F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite that I wrote in 2016, making it one of the first-ever Journe “guides”.) Octa Chronographe no. 001 that sold at Phillips in November last year Though the first in numerical sequence, it was not actually the first example produced as indicated by its details Unlike many recent “guides” that rely on plagiarisation or secondary sources, Mr Mehta’s article cite facts and figures from F.P. Journe itself. For instance, he tells us that only 35 examples of the Octa Ch...
Time+Tide
Unpacking the quiet brilliance of Marty’s TAG Heuer in Ozark
On the surface, Marty Byrde is an unlikely modern hero. The first series of the Netflix show Ozark opens to reveal a mild-mannered financial adviser stuck in the doldrums of a strained marriage with an adulterous wife. From there, over the next four seasons, things plummet downhill faster than an Olympic skier. When it turns … ContinuedThe post Unpacking the quiet brilliance of Marty’s TAG Heuer in Ozark appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Longines DolceVita collection delivers statuesque dress watches at very keen prices
Quill & Pad
Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono: Run, Don’t Walk, It’s The Best Value Swiss Made Automatic Chronograph Of The Year
Every time Ian Skellern writes the words “relatively affordable” here on Quill & Pad, he braces himself for the stream of comments reminding him that he must live in an alternative reality to most of the world. So he doesn't describe the Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono as relatively affordable (though compared to most of the watches we review on Quill & Pad he thinks it well merits that description), but he does think that it’s fantastic value and the bargain of the year. And here he explains why.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Doxa 600T collection remixes the 1980s with a fresh new vibe
The Doxa 600T collection represents an exciting change of pace for the brand. Instead of the tonneau-cased pieces that are so redolent of the 1970s, this collection skips forward to the ’80s. This was a decade that proved significant for Doxa as it was bought by the Aubry Freres Company, a takeover that resulted in … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Doxa 600T collection remixes the 1980s with a fresh new vibe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS ON: Clean and serene, the new TAG Heuer Autavia COSC GMT carries no excess baggage
It’s no secret at Time+Tide that I am a bit of a GMT fiend. There is just something about that complication that gets my horological juices flowing. Which means when a brand decides to release a GMT, I’m all over it. Will it have a classic design? How will the lume be? How will the … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: Clean and serene, the new TAG Heuer Autavia COSC GMT carries no excess baggage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Six watches to usher the Year of the Tiger
For today's article, we will be soaking in the atmosphere of the festivities, and recommend six watches to usher in the Year of the Tiger.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Chronograph 41 mm Ref. 26240
In addition to new time-and-date models – led by the “Jumbo” ref. 16202 – Audemars Piguet revamped a few complicated Royal Oaks for the model’s 50th anniversary. At the top end of the complications line up is the flying tourbillon, while the most affordable is the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm ref. 26240. Like last year’s solid-gold Royal Oak chronograph on a strap, the new ref. 26240 is equipped with the cal. 4401, the brand’s latest-generation chronograph movement that made its debut in the Code 11.59 Chronograph. All 50th anniversary Royal Oak watches produced in 2022 have 22k pink gold rotors bearing the anniversary emblem, but plated to match the case colour Initial thoughts Technically speaking, the ref. 26240 is less of a new launch because the gold version was introduced last year. What sets it apart is the bracelet; last year’s model was available only on a strap. But ref. 26240 is newsworthy as it marks the first time a Royal Oak Chronograph (ROC) in steel – historically the metal of choice for the Royal Oak – is fitted with an in-house movement. The cal. 4401 is certainly an upgrade over the Frédéric Piguet cal. 1185 that equipped past versions of the ROC. The new movement has almost everything a high-end sports chronograph should have, such as a vertical clutch and column wheel, while also having extras like a flyback function for immediate restart of the chronograph. Notably, the cal. 4401 also improves the balance of the dial...
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Seiko unleashes a Black-Ops style Tuna, Monster & Samurai, all sub $650USD. Which do you pick?
Time+Tide
What watches do the stars of HBO’s Euphoria wear in real life?
Back in my high school days, I remember watching the UK show Skins and thinking how wild its portrayal of high school/college life was – partying, drink, drugs and sex to the max. MTV, unsuccessfully, tried to transport Skins over to the US with their own take on the storyline. With American television far more restricted … ContinuedThe post What watches do the stars of HBO’s Euphoria wear in real life? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy 21 Chroma Limited Edition brings rainbow vibes to 2022
Unless you’ve been marooned on a desert island for the past several years, you’re probably all too aware of the rainbow colourway boom in the horological world. And let’s face it, some of these timepieces are, shall we say, aesthetically more harmonious than others. For every rainbow Daytona out there, there are twice as many … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy 21 Chroma Limited Edition brings rainbow vibes to 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Time Only brings 40mm to titanium, ceramic and 18K yellow gold
With Hublot, the most intimidating barrier for me was often the larger sizing their references were typically produced in. Hublot, unapologetically, favours larger diameters as the canvas for their bold personality and mastery of materials. Personally, I felt excluded from the party at times, liking the brand’s novelties but not being prepared to tackle their … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Time Only brings 40mm to titanium, ceramic and 18K yellow gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
What Marty from Ozark can teach you about surviving Covid disruption and the value of date windows
In Ozark, Marty Byrde is wearily accustomed to high-stress scenarios. Physical danger is an occupational hazard when you’re a money launderer for a Mexican cartel. But in the third series of the Netflix show, Marty finds himself in a spot of real bother. Imprisoned in solitary confinement by a murderous drug lord, Marty’s captors subject … ContinuedThe post What Marty from Ozark can teach you about surviving Covid disruption and the value of date windows appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
WHO TO FOLLOW: See what happens when music and watches collide with @vinylsanddials
It’s been nearly a decade since this bug of collecting watches bit me. In that time, I wish I could tell you that was the only hobby slowly assaulting my wallet. However, photography also became another passion of mine (had to kick Lego off the bus to make room). Interestingly, carrying multiple hobbies and interests … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: See what happens when music and watches collide with @vinylsanddials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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