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“Just created, 50 years ago” - Baume & Mercier CEO David Chaumet recalls the Riviera story Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier CEO David Chaumet recalls May 21, 2023

“Just created, 50 years ago” - Baume & Mercier CEO David Chaumet recalls the Riviera story

One of the original champions of the geometrical, integrated-bracelet watch design is Baume & Mercier, first entering that market with the 1973 Riviera. Its dodecagonal bezel and minimal dial layout were designed by Jean-Claude Gueit, preceding many integrated-bracelet icons by some years. David Chaumet has been steering the Baume & Mercier ship since 2019, and … ContinuedThe post “Just created, 50 years ago” – Baume & Mercier CEO David Chaumet recalls the Riviera story appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why the Patek Philippe Nautilus is King - Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Nautilus May 21, 2023

Why the Patek Philippe Nautilus is King - Reprise

After reading article after article discussing the virtues of Patek Philippe's Nautilus, it became clear to watch enthusiast and Quill & Pad reader Perry Heim that none stated a self-evident truth that appears obvious to him. In this "letter to the editor" Perry explains in detail what he finds so appealing about the Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5711. And he stacks the Nautilus up against some serious contemporary contenders.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Digital Meets Analog with the Teenage Engineering TP-7, Quite Carry Premieres The Drift Large Contoured, & the Svelte Voigtländer Ultron 27mm Prime Lens Worn & Wound
May 20, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Digital Meets Analog with the Teenage Engineering TP-7, Quite Carry Premieres The Drift Large Contoured, & the Svelte Voigtländer Ultron 27mm Prime Lens

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Teenage Engineering Teenage Engineering’s TP-7 Equips The Digital Recorder An Analog Feel Via Teenage Engineering You can bet that anything produced by Teenage Engineering is going to have a clean and distinguishable design. With a focus in developing high quality, Swedish designed electronics and synthesizers, there’s a consistent level of attention to detail across their range of products. Their latest is the TP-7 – a compact field recorder that combines their unique design language with an appealing analog feel. Via Teenage Engineering The TP-7 is built to record in all sorts of situations, from recording music to logging important thoughts for later on. Each button is strategically placed so that every function is accessible in the palm of your hand. The main feature is its mechanical tape reel which allows you to conveniently scrub through previous recordings or seamlessly navigate the TP-7 menu. Plus the actual look and feel of the center wheel adds to the cool factor that is sure to speak to all of us analog lovers. The Teenage Engineering TP-7 will r...

Up Close: The Imperial Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Owned May 20, 2023

Up Close: The Imperial Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China

With the Geneva auctions just having concluded, the spring sale season now moves to Hong Kong. The biggest event during auction week in the city will undoubtedly The Imperial Patek Philippe Sale, an evening sale that take places at Phillips on May 23. The auction gets its name from the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96QL in platinum once owned by Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the last Emperor of China. Known to the market for several years but now going under the hammer for the first time, the watch might emerge as the year’s most valuable watch sold at auction – or it might not, given the mixed reputation of the final Qing Emperor. But regardless of the value, the Puyi’s Patek Philippe is an exceptionally interesting watch, both intrinsically and in terms of provenance. The provenance Phillips pulled out all the stops in marketing The Imperial Patek Philippe Sale, no doubt an attempt to reach an audience beyond watch collectors. While the ref. 96QL is an exceedingly rare watch – and worth millions on its own – the provenance of this example is bona fide “Imperial”. The story of the watch is ably told in a documentary produced by Phillips especially for the auction. The 17-minute film explains how the life and times of Puyi, his fascination with timepieces, and importantly, how the ref. 96QL ended up in the possession of a Russian translator. Amongst the interviewees in the film is Russell Working, an American journalist who once profiled the Russian translator, Georgy Pe...

Highlights: “The Ultimate Collection” at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts We round May 18, 2023

Highlights: “The Ultimate Collection” at Christie’s Hong Kong

Having concluded its Geneva sales that included an F.P. Journe thematic auction, Christie’s will soon open its spring sale season in Hong Kong. The auctioneer’s watch offerings include an impressive line-up of watches assembled over two decades by an Asian collector. Christened The Ultimate Collection, the selection is composed of 107 timepieces – almost all modern – ranging from Rolex to F.P. Journe. Although the watches are diverse, the collector’s keen eye can be discerned. The catalogue includes classic must-haves like various examples of the Rolex Daytona and GMT-Master II, but also rare and special watches from F.P. Journe as well as possibly-unique Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts. We round up nine notable picks from the sale, including the headline lots from F.P. Journe – a Chronomètre à Résonance “RTA” with a mother-of-pearl dial and the Tourbillon Souverain Coeur de Rubis. The “Coeur de Rubis” dial Other highlights including a Patek Philippe Dome Clock that was originally owned by Jean-Claude Biver of Hublot and Blancpain fame, along with uncommon variants of the landmark Lange 1, including the Lange 1A and ref. 101.027X. The Ultimate Collection takes place on May 26 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) – the catalogue is available here. Lot 2537 – F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain Anniversaire “Hong Kong”  In 2016, F.P. Journe marked the 10th anniversary of its first ever boutique (which was in Tokyo) with the ...

A Prototype Turned Bonafide Addition to Martin-Baker Collection: Introducing the Bremont MB Viper Worn & Wound
Bremont MB Viper Bremont May 17, 2023

A Prototype Turned Bonafide Addition to Martin-Baker Collection: Introducing the Bremont MB Viper

Bremont and ejection seat manufacturer Martin-Baker have been working with another for over a decade now, and they’re partnership has laid the groundwork for innovation in both the testing and watchmaking process. These two British companies are most certainly birds of a feather, producing their own specialty products with a stamp of dependability that signifies the extensive testing and meticulous quality control that goes into each and every component. They both are constantly pushing the boundaries of what’s possible in their respective industries. It’s no surprise that when Bremont brought watchmaking back to U.K. shores with its series of Caliber ENG300 movements, they tapped into Martin-Baker’s intense equipment and performance testing program. That idea has evolved to what is now the foundation of Bremont’s MB range and created a whole new category of testing, as well as set a brand new standard for the pilots watch. Bremont and Martin-Baker’s latest collaborative project looks forward by looking back – not at their rich history in engineering and technical ingenuity, but at the MB testing program itself and the actual test instrument used by Bremont. In order to test the viability of their Caliber ENG300 movement series, Bremont created a special housing that was attached to the dashboard of an ejection simulator. Bremont then went a step further by affixing a set of carbon fiber lugs to that special housing and strapped it to the wrist of a test mann...

Highlights: The Artisanal and Complicated at Phillips’ Hong Kong SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Audubon” featuring May 17, 2023

Highlights: The Artisanal and Complicated at Phillips’ Hong Kong

After round up the best examples of independent watchmaking on offer at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI, let’s turn to notable complications and artisanal timepieces in the sale that takes place on May 24 and 25.  Amongst the highlights are easy choices like the Patek Philippe ref. 5016P, the most complicated watch made by the Geneva watchmaker at the time of its launch. Others might go under the radar (and perhaps be good buys), like the Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Mystérieuse with its transparent time display and floating hands. As for the artisanal, a highlight is undoubtedly the Vacheron Constantin “Audubon” featuring a cloisonné dial done by the famed Anita Porchet, arguably the best enameller in watchmaking.  Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be accessed here.  Lot 836: Vacheron Constantin “Birds of America” ref. 43060/000J-8434  by Anita Porchet Enamelling at its highest level is an art form equal to the best of complicated watchmaking. Amongst Vacheron Constantin’s earliest but also best known enamelled watches is the series inspired by drawings from Birds of America by John-James Audubon. The 19th century American naturalist documented most of the continent’s birds in the landmark tome, the pages of which served as inspiration for the series of watches. For the “Birds of America” series, Vacheron Constantin turned to the best enamelers of the day, including Muriel Sechaud and of course Anita Porchet. Going by t...

15 Orange-Dial Watches from Entry-Level to Luxury Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Orient made May 16, 2023

15 Orange-Dial Watches from Entry-Level to Luxury

We’re living in a world of seemingly almost infinite color choices when it comes to watches, particularly their dials, the faces that timepieces most prominently show to the public. Amidst the masses of silver, black, blue and various shades of green dials that proliferate today, orange dials are still something of a niche, generally assigned to a handful of diving watches, for which the earliest ones were intended more as a matter of practicality than style. However, watchmakers in recent years have slowly started to embrace the orange dial and to discover the widely appealing breadth of hues it offers. Here we showcase 15 orange-faced watches that are on the market now; as always, we start at an eminently affordable price point, slightly over $200, and top out in the high-luxury segment, at six figures.  Orient Ray Raven II FAA02006M9   Price: $210, Case Size: 41.5mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug to Lug: 47mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Automatic Orient F6922 Orient is a Japanese watchmaker founded in 1950 but with a tangled history stretching all the way back to 1901 and a convoluted relationship with its now-parent company, Seiko Epson Corporation. Like its better-known contemporaries, Seiko (with its own complex corporate structure through Epson) and Citizen, Orient made its worldwide reputation by making affordable watches with appealing designs. Among Orient’s stable of sporty divers’ watches is this Ray Raven II model with ...

Hands On: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” It’s May 15, 2023

Hands On: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox”

It’s been 60 years since Jack Heuer introduced perhaps his best-known creation, the Carrera. Conceived as a no-frills chronograph for racing drivers, the original Carrera combined beauty and practicality without sacrificing style. Having released several vintage remakes, TAG Heuer has now pivoted and gently modernised its signature chronograph. The Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” retains the outline of the original, but it is recognisably different thanks to the highly-domed sapphire crystal – hence the “Glassbox” nickname – that allows the tachymeter scale to sit raised above the dial. The raised tachymeter echos the contours of the crystal, giving the watch a decidedly contemporary flair. Initial thoughts The Glassbox successful combines the old and new. The watch manages to convey evoke the original, while still looking like a modern watch, rather than a remake. The raised tachymeter scale and domed crystal serve to give the watch a visual depth that vintage originals lack. That said, essential elements from the vintage original have been ported over to the new design, like the typography on the tachymeter scale and applied markers for instance.  Importantly, the Glassbox is smaller than most other comparable Carrera models, with a case that’s just 39 mm in diameter. The size suits the vintage-inspired design, although the watch still remains noticeably thick as a result of the movement. Interestingly, the two dials actually have different designs. The p...

Like coffee? The Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin is made from it… Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso May 14, 2023

Like coffee? The Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin is made from it…

The Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin finds use for recycled aluminium and coffee grounds from Nespresso capsules. You can even see flecks of coffee running throughout the rubber strap. The Hublot Greenbox is also being introduced, which will house all Hublot’s future collections. Recycled materials have been appearing more and more in Swiss luxury … ContinuedThe post Like coffee? The Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin is made from it… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Topo Designs Adds an Array of Funky Multi-Purpose Packs, Pushing Bodily Limits in a McMurtry Spéirling, & a Couple of Versatile Gerber EDC Tools Worn & Wound
May 13, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Topo Designs Adds an Array of Funky Multi-Purpose Packs, Pushing Bodily Limits in a McMurtry Spéirling, & a Couple of Versatile Gerber EDC Tools

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Topo Designs Topo Designs Adds Classic River Silhouettes To Their Core Mountain Collection This week, Topo Designs has added their favorite River pieces to their core Mountain Collection. Their latest offering blends the lightweight, waterproof features of their River capsule with the durable, alpine style of their Mountain Collection, breeding a whole new set of versatile and eye-catching packs. Inspired by ‘70s interior design and the more vibrant colors of nature, this new addition provides a wide array of choices to keep your gear and other essentials organized for whatever you have planned for this Sping and beyond. The Mountain Gear Bag Via Topo Designs Out of the entire collection, we’re going to take a look at a few packs starting with the Mountain Gear Bag. In a silhouette that resembles a combination of a duffle and tote bag, the Mountain Gear Bag is built to throw any sort of essentials in its 48L main compartment, whether that be a pair of hiking boots, a change of clothes, a sleeping bag or any other combination you can think of, this utilitarian ...

Zodiac Introduces the Sea-Chron, a Vintage Inspired Chronograph with Roots in the 1960s Worn & Wound
Zodiac Introduces May 9, 2023

Zodiac Introduces the Sea-Chron, a Vintage Inspired Chronograph with Roots in the 1960s

Zodiac continues to plumb the depths of their archives with their latest release, the Sea-Chron chronograph. Originating in the 1960s, the Sea-Chron was a natural extension of the Sea Wolf, a platform that Zodiac has returned to in recent years to great success. This sporty diver’s chronograph picks up on a lot of the aesthetic cues of the classic Sea Wolf, but has some key technical upgrades that put it squarely in modern watch territory. It also fills a fairly wide hole in the Zodiac catalog – it’s hard to believe, but up until this week, they didn’t have a chronograph in their collection.  Zodiac envisions the Sea-Chron as a true multipurpose sports watch. Like their dive watches, the Sea-Chron has a full 200 meters of water resistance, and the case has been outfitted with a timing bezel with a twenty minute interval. Inside the timing bezel and at the dial’s perimeter, you’ll find a tachymeter that can be used completely independently of the Sea-Chron’s dive timing features. The handset is the familiar Zodiac fence post design, and squared off apertures with lume underneath for the hours, except at 3, 6 and 9, where you’ll find the sub registers for minute and hour totalizations, and a running seconds indicator.  There are two variants of the Sea-Chron available at launch. One in a clean black and white colorway that would appear to prize legibility above all else. This version has a black base dial and white subdials, and, crucially, a white tachymet...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The True Story of Video Gamer Turned Professional Racing Driver, How the Discovery of the North Pole was Faked, & the Lightweight EDC-Friendly GoRuck X-PAC Collection Worn & Wound
May 6, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The True Story of Video Gamer Turned Professional Racing Driver, How the Discovery of the North Pole was Faked, & the Lightweight EDC-Friendly GoRuck X-PAC Collection

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Gran Turismo Gran Turismo: The True Story Of How A Video Gamer Became A Professional Racing Driver  How do we measure the space between imagination and real-life experience? Where is the line between what’s virtual and what’s real? For Jann Mardenborough, the only way for him to know was to cross that line and to never go back. Mardenborough was just 19 years old when he won the GT Academy, a competition that took the best Gran Turismo video game players from around the world and trained them so that they would be able to jump into an actual race car and drive upwards of 200 mph around some of the most iconic race tracks around the globe. Mardenborough’s career would accelerate from there, as he would go on to have a top 3 finish at Le Mans and a top-of-the-podium finish at GP3 in 2014. Although this sounds like a Cinderella story, there is an unfortunate tragedy that underlines the fact that professional race car driving is no longer a video game. There is no reset button. Via Gran Turismo Gran Turismo is a film that portrays Jann Mardenborough’s story f...

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard “Damas” SJX Watches
Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet May 4, 2023

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard “Damas”

Franck Muller’s latest venture into unorthodox case materials is a pair of watches with cases and dials in Damascus steel. Available only at the brand’s stores in Asia, the Vanguard “Damas” and “Damas Racing” retain the tonneau-shaped case of the brand’s bestseller but enhanced with the texture and depth of Damascus steel. Initial thoughts  The use of Damascus steel gives the Vanguard a new and appealing look. Because the model has been iterated numerous times, the Vanguard line is made up of an almost endless range of variants, but mostly in conventional metal alloys or carbon composite. The Damas models easily stand apart, making them instantly recognisable.   The case metal is particularly suited to the skeletonised Damas Racing – the open-worked dial contrasts against the graining of the Damascus steel, making it a perfect complement to the case material. And its open-worked numerals in Damascus steel are an especially pleasing detail. The Vanguard “Damas Racing” Both Damas models, however, are pricey relative to other Franck Muller offerings. The Vanguard “Damas” costs just over US$13,000 (and the open-worked model is almost double), making it twice as expensive as a comparable time-only Vanguard in a conventional steel case. That’s true even compared to the competition. The Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet, which features a similar case material, costs about the same as the open-worked Vanguard “Damas Racing”, but it’s a chronograph in...

Watches With Two Timezones: 24 Best Travel Watches from Entry-Level to Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Promaster Nighthawk Price $391 May 2, 2023

Watches With Two Timezones: 24 Best Travel Watches from Entry-Level to

Aimed at frequent travelers, watches with two timezones are among the most practical of complicated timepieces. Even in an era in which it's easier than ever to check one's current time on any mobile device, being able to read two distinct times more or less simultaneously with a simple glance at one's wrist is still a compelling argument to recommend such a watch to anyone whose work or leisure takes them far from home on a regular basis. In this article we take a look at a range of dual-time watches (also called "GMT" watches, named for the calculation of "Greenwich Mean Time," or the worldwide 24-hour timekeeping system based upon the Greenwich Meridian in London), priced from entry-level to high luxury, from a variety of watchmakers large and small.  Citizen Promaster Nighthawk Price: $391, Case: 42mm, Lug Width: 26mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water-Resistance: 200m, Movement: Quartz Eco-Drive, Water-Resistance: 200m The Citizen Promaster Nighthawk Black PVD sports a highly technical dial that takes its cues from instruments in the cockpits of U.S. military helicopters. The watch’s 42-mm case is made of black PVD-coated stainless steel and its black dial is packed with scales in contrasting white type that are of particular use to aviators and navigators, including the circular slide rule printed on the ion-plated rotating bezel. Two luminous central hands display the current time, while an airplane-tipped smaller hand shows the time in another time zone on a 24-hour sc...

Highlights from the shop: The Seiko Prospex “Safarnie” Worn & Wound
Seiko Prospex “Safarnie” May 1, 2023

Highlights from the shop: The Seiko Prospex “Safarnie”

On today’s episode, we take a look at the Seiko Prospex SNJ029. Nicknamed the “Safarnie”, this watch was a modern interpretation of the classic Ana-Digi watch worn by action star Arnold Schwarzenegger in his movies. On today’s episode, we take a look at the Seiko Prospex SNJ029. Nicknamed the “Safarnie”, this watch was a modern interpretation of the classic Ana-Digi watch worn by action star Arnold Schwarzenegger in his movies. The post Highlights from the shop: The Seiko Prospex “Safarnie” appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Ball Engineer Roadmaster Pilot GMT Green offers a unique take on a true GMT Time+Tide
Ming increasingly popular Apr 30, 2023

The Ball Engineer Roadmaster Pilot GMT Green offers a unique take on a true GMT

The new Ball Engineer Roadmaster Pilot GMT Hulk comes with a green-on-green colour scheme, a quick-set date, and a true GMT caliber  It has a compact case of 40mm made of lightweight titanium  The new Roadmaster Pilot GMT Hulk is limited to 1,000 pieces  GMT watches are becoming increasingly popular, and brands big and small … ContinuedThe post The Ball Engineer Roadmaster Pilot GMT Green offers a unique take on a true GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

D.C.’s top three Norqain picks from the shop Time+Tide
Norqain picks from Apr 30, 2023

D.C.’s top three Norqain picks from the shop

We’ve got some exciting news! Time + Tide is now an authorised dealer for Norqain, and we couldn’t be more thrilled. The Swiss brand has been making waves since they burst onto the scene five years ago, with attractive original designs that back up their good looks with some truly proper specs. A fiercely independent … ContinuedThe post D.C.’s top three Norqain picks from the shop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zelos Introduces their First GMT with the Miyota 9075 “Flyer” Movement Worn & Wound
Zelos Apr 28, 2023

Zelos Introduces their First GMT with the Miyota 9075 “Flyer” Movement

The rise of the affordable “true” GMT continues to be a strong trend in the microbrand arena, as more and more ready new watches sporting the Miyota 9075. This caliber is beginning to feel like a true game changer in the space, allowing brands whose bread and butter are sub $1,000 watches to offer a much sought after complication that consumers would previously have to spend many times that amount to acquire. The latest entrant in an increasingly crowded marketplace for these watches is an old favorite of ours: Zelos.  Zelos watches have always represented value, whether we’re talking about divers under $500 or a Swiss tourbillon with a case made from exotic titanium alloys. Their watches have a colorful, materials oriented style that places a high value on texture and provides their customers with something unique. For this first batch of GMTs, which are part of the Mako line, each option is quintessential Zelos, meaning that even the most conservative watch in the group is still pretty memorable.  Of the three new GMTs that make their debut today, the most simple is the Mako 300M GMT Frost, which appears at first to be a stark white dial, but is actually fully lumed, so when the lights go out and the lume is completely charged, the entire dial glows, with the “black lume” hands and hour markers standing in relief. The orange arrow in the GMT hand and a bit of text in the same shade are the only additional colors found on the dial, which is somewhat unusual fo...

The Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327 Time+Tide
Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327 Apr 28, 2023

The Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327

Breguet’s new Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327 is based on their automatic pocket watches from the 1780s The perpetual calendar display is arranged with strength and balance It’s a great size at 39mm in diameter and 46mm lug-to-lug The law of conservation of energy states that energy cannot be created nor destroyed, so the idea that … ContinuedThe post The Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.