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Deployant
Zenith revamps the Elite collection of unisex watches. The classic line now comes with a new dial and case design. The Elite Moonphase is available in two sizes, 36 mm and 40.5 mm, understandably the equivalent of two sizes for ladies and men.
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The very first case designed by Michel Parmigiani when he founded his eponymous brand, the elegant Toric is now primarily used for haute horlogerie watches. The latest to join the line up is the Toric Tourbillon Red Gold Slate, an extra-thin wristwatch with a flying tourbillon. Initial thoughts Though Parmigiani has tried its hand at contemporary case designs, its true strength is still classical style that references Breguet and other past century greats that Mr Parmigiani is familiar with thanks to his background in watch restoration. So it is with the Toric Tourbillon. Despite being relatively simple in style, the watch is immediately recognisable as a Parmigiani. It has a strongly balanced aesthetic between the guilloché dial, knurled bezel and flying tourbillon. But the prominent “Tourbillon 60 Secondes” label on the dial detracts from the clean style of the dial. Also, the 42.8mm case, though slim, might be a point of contention as it is on the large side for a slightly formal watch. Styling aside, Parmigiani quality is impeccable, for both the internal and external components. In that respect, there’s little to criticise. Toric tradition The very first watch designed by Mr Parmigiani when he launched his brand in 1996 was the Toric Memory Time, a slim, dual time zone watch. Though slightly tweaked, the current Toric case sticks closely to the design of the original, particularly with the prominent knurled bezel that is decorated by a hand-operated machine...
Time+Tide
“The least believable part of Extraction is that at no point do any of the 183 people that Chris Hemsworth kills mention how ridiculously good looking he is…” That’s what Netflix said in a recent tweet about their new balls-to-the-wall action extravaganza that’s set to become their biggest movie ever (90 million households watched the … ContinuedThe post From Chris Hemsworth in Extraction to American Sniper, why G-Shocks are the ultimate bad-ass watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
To recap: Zenith’s latest release, the uber stealthy Chronomaster Revival ‘Shadow’, has had us thinking about all the other great all-black timepieces that have been released in recent memory. The blacklist is an ever updating thing. So, we ran through some of our favourite models from the last little while. And after going through the … ContinuedThe post The New Blacklist Part 2: best of the new all-black watches from $315… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
There is little more mythical in the world of horology than the existence of a handful of stainless steel watches by A. Lange & Söhne, a brand that only officially makes its timepieces housed in luxurious precious metals. And the unique piece Tourbillon Pour le Mérite in stainless steel is perhaps the rarest of them all. Read on to find out more about this collector's item.
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The Girard-Perregaux Laureato was among the vanguard of the first luxury sports watches when it was released in 1975. But it hasn’t stayed in the past, with the constantly evolving new materials and technologies used by the brand in this collection bringing it convincingly into 2020 (with materials such as the electric-looking Carbon Glass, which … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light, one of the most curious sapphire crystal-cased watches yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
![Business News: Baselworld 2021 Cancelled and Exhibitors Get Refunds [Updated]](https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Baselworld-2019-hall-3.jpg)
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This year’s Baselworld saga has finally arrived at its epilogue and the inevitable outcome has been made official: MCH Group just announced that Baselworld 2021 has been cancelled. Simultaneously, the event’s organisers also announced that an “agreement on the settlement for the cancelled Baselworld 2020” – presumably with more substantial refunds – was reached with exhibiting brands. That settles the brief-but-intense circumstances surrounding Baselworld 2020, which began when this year’s fair was cancelled and then “postponed” to January 2021. Along with the “postponement”, exhibitors for the 2020 fair were only offered partial refunds of the event fees. Both moves, which were regarded as unilateral and unfair by watch brands, led to a stinging response from the exhibitors, led by their committee chairman, a senior executive of Rolex, the world’s largest luxury watch brand. A week later, Baselworld suffered its death blow when the fair’s biggest exhibitors – Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard, and Tudor – pulled out of the event and decamped to Geneva, where they will join Watches & Wonders in a brand-new event that’ll take place in April 2021. They were followed shortly after by the brands owned by LVMH, which include Hublot and Bulgari. With that, the cancellation of Baselworld 2021 was fait accompli, even though Baselworld responded by insinuating the exhibitors had long been conspiring to exit the event. The cavernous Rolex booth...
Time+Tide
In what is surely, surely the last press release relating to the collapse of Baselworld, the MCH Group has announced that it has “taken the decision not to hold Baselworld in 2021”. Insert saddest ever meme here. The release also outlines the “amicable” end to a dispute over brands accessing refunds for this year’s cancelled … ContinuedThe post Baselworld officially cancelled for 2021, though MCH Group considering comeback via “follow-up formats”; journalists just pleased press releases will stop now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The Superwatch is alive and ticking.
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Thirty-three year old Rexhep Rexhepi is a rising star in independent watchmaking who practices his craft from a workshop in Geneva’s Old Town. But he was born almost a continent away in Kosovo, having left his birthplace as a young teenager as a consequence of the Yugoslav Wars. The Singapore-based retailer of Rexhep’s brand, Akrivia, recently debuted a documentary on Rexhep’s life and work. It’s the latest instalment in The Lives of Artists, a series of short films on a handful of notable watchmakers and creative personalities. Other subjects of the film series include contemporary artist Daniel Arsham, architect Sir David Adjaye, as well as Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei of Urwerk. The subsequent instalments will debut one a week until mid-June 2020. You can watch Rexhep’s film below, while the other films can be in the The Lives of Artists playlist.
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Time+Tide
One fact that seems to have been roundly overlooked in recent years is the slow, steady, but really quite emphatic, elevation in Hublot’s yearly releases. In terms of technical complexity, case design and overall finishing. The Hublot of 2020 is not the brand that Jean-Claude Biver re-introduced to the world 15 years ago with the … ContinuedThe post Hublot, you’ve come a long way baby. 16 photos that show just how far the brand has come in 15 years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Ming is a “micro brand” that has gained tremendous recognition in a remarkably short period thanks to a well-cultivated design language and smart pricing. While the brand started out with the affordable 17 series, it then went upmarket with the 19 series. Now the brand has unveiled a new model that’s in-between the two, the Ming 27.01. In many ways it’s an evolution of the entry-level 17 series, with a more elaborately-conceived but notably thin case as well as a major upgrade in terms of mechanics, resulting in a slightly higher retail price of 3,950 Swiss francs. Initial thoughts The 27.01 is a good-looking derivative of the 17 series that launched the brand. But it’s not just a similar design, the watch has been upgraded in a useful way, mainly with slimmer proportions and a more interesting movement. Though the base movement is a pedestrian ETA Peseux, it’s been smartly modified to look different and attractive (though the revamped bridges look a bit skimpy leading to minor worries about shock resistance). While the 17 series was great value for money – and cost very little money – the 27.01 is pricey in comparison. It’s priced substantially higher, at about US$4,000, which is still reasonable value, but less easily compelling than the 17 series. An exercise in reductivism While the 27.01 retains the same 38 mm case diameter as the 17.01, its height of just 6.9 mm 27.01 makes it the slimmest Ming watch to date. Because of its svelte dimensions, the ca...
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The translucent blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea often conjure images of beach towels draped over deckchairs, shade umbrellas and Aperol Spritz, offering sunbakers relief from a cloudless sky, and small fishing boats rocking back and forth not far from shore. It is this idyllic scene that Panerai has embraced with their latest collection of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Seaside serenity with the Panerai Radiomir Mediterraneo collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Looking at the new watches Jaeger-LeCoultre released for W&W; 2020, my overriding impression was that the brand is calmly focusing on what it does really well: refined, technically rigorous and beautifully executed watchmaking that won’t stop the traffic from 100 paces (no look-at-me gimmicks here) but will invite us to pause, look more closely and … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre’s astonishing return to top form with the masterful and controlled 2020 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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When it comes to big days, they don’t come much more memorable or special than your wedding day, especially now, when it seems like every wedding has its own hashtag or custom location check-in. So it’s only natural that you’d want to ensure every inch – from top to wrist – is looking its finest. … ContinuedThe post Watches fit for a groom – the best wedding watches of 2020 inc. L.U.Chopard, Longines and Rado appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Since its launch in 2000, the Chronomètre à Résonance has perhaps become the quintessential F.P. Journe wristwatch. Still the only wristwatch to rely on the principle of resonance – omitting any mechanical means of transmission – the Résonance has been revamped and improved for its 20th anniversary. While the Résonance was powered by essentially the same calibre (the cal. 1499 in several generations) for its first two decades, the new Chronomètre à Résonance is equipped with the brand-new cal. 1520. Several features set the new movement apart from its predecessor, most notably the use of a single barrel and a remontoir d’egalite constant force mechanism in each going train. Initial thoughts Having learnt a little about the new Résonance from hints dropped by Mr Journe in the past, I was looking forward to this – and the watch lives up to expectations. The basics of the new model are no surprise, since Mr Journe had let on that the movement will incorporate his signature remontoir. The upgrades to the new movement are sensible both in terms of function and timekeeping. Relying on a single barrel eliminates the finicky and occasionally unreliable double-barrel winding mechanism of the original movement. But the remontoir installed in each going train is the crucial upgrade as it optimises the going trains before and after the escapement. In the original Resonance movement, both balance wheels oscillate at an identical amplitude at any one time, but the am...
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The thing about understated magnificence is that, at first glance, it’s often overlooked. And then it happens. The “why-Miss-Jones-without-your-glasses-you’re-beautiful” moment. Suddenly noticed, the full force of its charm slaps you sharply in the face, to leave you genuflecting with slack-jawed wonder and a slightly goofy smile. This is how I feel about the just-released Jaeger‑LeCoultre … ContinuedThe post The hidden party trick that makes the Jaeger‑LeCoultre Master Control Calendar a (relatively) accessible work of art appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Having just debuted a Luminor with fancy “lume” and a sintered titanium case, Panerai is also unveiling another wristwatch in a novel material – the Luminor Marina Fibratech 44 mm PAM01663 with a basalt-fibre composite case. Having been the focus of research in recent years as a lower-cost and ecologically-friendly alternative to carbon-fibre composites, basalt-fibre composites are light, strong, fire-resistant, biodegradable, and more cost efficient, making them increasingly popular in the automotive and aerospace industries. The material starts with basalt rock that’s ground up, melted, and then formed into fibres. As with carbon-fibre composites, the basalt fibres are then mixed in a liquid polymer and baked in a special high-pressure oven, or autoclave, forming the composite material that can be machined to the desired shape. Used for the first time in watchmaking with the Luminor Marina Fibratech, basalt-fibre composite is used for the case and crown-lock bridge, while the bezel, crown, and crown-lock lever are made of carbon-fibre composite (or Carbotech in Panerai parlance), giving the case a two-tone appearance with the carbon-fibre composite several shades darker than its basalt-fibre counterpart. And as is usual for watch cases made of composite materials, the screw-down case back is titanium and screws into an inner case of titanium. Under the titanium back is the P.9010, a thin, in-house automatic with a three-day power reserve. In keeping with current...
SJX Watches
Characterised by a wide, sober dial with Arabic numerals and small seconds at six o’clock, the quintessential IWC Portugieser wristwatch has almost always been an extra-large, hand-wound timepiece, starting with the original ref. 325 of 1939. But for Watches & Wonders 2020, IWC has introduced a smaller take on the classic with the Portugieser Automatic 40. Available in four references, three in steel and one in pink gold, the new Portugieser Automatic is 40.4 mm wide and 12.4 mm high, making it quite a bit smaller and slimmer than the popular Portugieser 7-days ref. 5007. Notably, the latest Portugieser isn’t the first compact, self-winding variant of the model. In fact, it harks back to the little-known and uncommon Portuguese ref. 3531 of 1998 that was 35 mm and automatic. But in terms of design, the Portugieser Automatic 40 looks very much like a contemporary model. In fact, with the railway minute track and small seconds at six, it’s almost a dead-ringer for the Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days ref. 5102. Inside is the relatively new cal. 82200, which first made an appearance in the Da Vinci Automatic Edition “150 Years” in 2018. Offering a 60-hour power reserve, the movement is equipped with the latest-generation Pellaton winding system, which replaces the push-pull winding pawls that are found in the entry-level automatic cal. 32000. In addition, the automatic wheel, pawls and cam are made of wear-resistant ceramic. Key facts and price IWC Portugiese...
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Vacheron Constantin’s hand-wound chronographs are, for the most part, powered by either the Lemania-based cal. 1142 or the mono-pusher cal. 3300 that was developed in-house. Freshly unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2020, the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph belongs in the latter camp. Notably, the new tourbillon-chronograph is powered by the same movement that was last seen in 2015 inside the Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph made to mark the 260th anniversary of the brand. The in-house movement combines a mono-pusher chronograph with the brand’s signature Maltese-cross tourbillon and was absent from the line-up for several years, but now it returns in fine form. While the Harmony was a cushion shape, the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph is conventionally round in form. Entirely polished, the case is in pink gold and measures 42.5 mm across and 11.7 mm high, making it large but fairly slim. The silver dial with a tachymeter scale is characterised by a rather unusual, asymmetric layout, with the tourbillon at 12 o’clock, 45-minute chronograph counter just below, and a small power reserve indicator at six. The impressive cal. 3200 Inside is the cal. 3200, which is identical to movement inside the Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph, with one difference – this lacks the gilded and engraved tourbillon bridge that was unique to the 260th anniversary watches. Instead the tourbillon here is secured on the back by a simpler brass bridge decorated with Cotes de Geneve...
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A mainstay of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s catalogue for almost three decades, the Master Control made its debut in 1992 and has been facelifted every couple of years since. Fresh off the press at Watches & Wonders 2020, the latest Master Control collection forgets the facelifts and is instead throwback to the inaugural line-up of three decades ago. The new range reproduces the models and style of the originals, including the popular, entry-level Master Control Date, but it also includes an all-new model, the Master Control Chronograph Calendar. From left: Master Control Date, Master Control Calendar, and Master Control Geographic And the Master Control Chronograph Calendar New tech, classic style While retaining the look of the originals, the new Master Control models are ever-so-slightly larger, now measuring 40 mm (while the 1990s originals were mostly 37 mm). More importantly, the new watches have been fitted with newly-upgraded movements equipped with silicon escapements. The cal. 899AA of the Master Control Date Though JLC has used silicon escapements in the past, most notably in the Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 and the more recent Tourbillon Celeste, the movements in the new Master Control watches are the first affordable, regular-production models to feature such escapements. The use of silicon pallet levers and escape wheels, coupled with the use of new lubricants and a stronger and longer mainspring, means substantial improvements in operating efficiency, with power ...
Hodinkee
One of the most chic Cartier Tank watches ever made is back.
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After unveiling the glow-in-the-dark Santos Skeleton ADLC “Noctambule” last year, Cartier debuts the similar, but simpler, Santos de Cartier ADLC at Watches & Wonders 2020. The new Santos actually revives a look the brand first rolled out in 2009 with the Santos 100 ADLC, which was the brand’s first use of amorphous diamond-like carbon (ADLC) as a case coating. A nano-composite coating, ADLC possesses diamond-like properties, including high corrosion and scratch resistance, improving the robustness of the watch case. But like all coatings it can detach if the material below is dented or scratched deeply. All-black (left), or a combination of natural-finish steel and ADLC-coating Shades of black Like the Skeleton ADLC “Noctambule”, the Santos ADLC is available only in the largest LM case that’s 47.5 mm by 39.8 mm on the face and a height of 9.38 mm, making it a big but relatively slim watch. It is available in two iterations: all-black ADLC-coated steel, or two-tone steel with an ADLC bezel. While the case dimensions are identical to the standard Santos, the new models have a low-key matte finish. The bezel is brushed, instead of the mirror polish found on the standard model, with only the bevels along the edge of the case being polished. The steel model features a dark grey dial which matches the shade of the ADLC coating on the bezel. Though the dial is a single colour, it appears two-tone due to the surface finishing – vertical brushing on the inner dia...
Time+Tide
Make no mistake, the Cartier 2020 collection is a cracker. Last year we were offered a smaller collection of watches that focused on the Santos and Tonneau shapes, but this year we get most of that and much, much more. The latest releases from Cartier are broken down into five distinct collections, but there’s also … ContinuedThe post Everything you need to know about the Cartier 2020 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Bollinger 2012 is fast gaining a reputation as one of the very best vintages of this century. Ken Gargett thinks it's fantastic champagne, and while truly wonderful now it has a great future. 98/100. Just wow! A couple of cases of this and we would feel a lot better about an extended period of isolation!
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